Townesw

Do you move your trailer or is it set up in a semi permanent location? The reason I ask is it seems like I read one time that you were a campground host. If you are set up semi permanent you might consider using a wand and washing the bottom side of the top (inside) of your black tank to remove anything growing there that might be creating a smell. I have done this without making a mess by stretching a piece of clear plastic over the rim and sticking a flush wand through a small hole poked in the center of the plastic. I used the water wand out of this set and “flushed the s..t” out of it. https://www.jbtools.com/lisle-radiator-genie-water-air-cleaning-wand-88500/?wi=off&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADsRHpMRXm-qFPZ7YImI7C72eLsmp&gclid=Cj0KCQjwlvW2BhDyARIsADnIe-J2zOxhEo0lRORzmKQs5As-Ci31ib8zUwlffYUqKpuoGVDvXd0Air8aArl6EALw_wcB

Street side rear on hull 313.

Go to local auto parts store and get a can of 3M adhesive remover https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40070712/ Or order a can of ASI 0240 https://americansealantsinc.com/product/asi-0240/

Here’s another Lisle product that I am using now to pack bearings. You fill it with your grease gun through the zerk on the stem. A lot less waste than packing in your hand using grease out of a tub. https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/handy-packer-bearing-packer IMG_2453.mov IMG_2454.mov

I’ve used Mystik JT-6 since the trailer was new. I use it to pack the wheel bearings also. It’s what they were using at the factory when we picked up hull 313 in March 2018. I think you can get it at TSC. Use a good grease and use it often.

Look under street side bunk on the battery box end. Thanks @mossemi

@Boudicca908Pry off the 4 plastic caps, remove the screws, cut the caulk around the insert using a plastic razor blade. If you intend to remove the insert be sure you have everything on hand to replace it. Keep in mind that the caulk will need to cure for a certain time before it can be wetted. I have taped a piece of plastic over the hole in order to use the shower before I replaced the insert.

There has been at least one owner (edit: more than a few owners) who forgot and left their black tank flush running. The water filled the black tank and then flowed over and filled the grey tank through the venting under the bathroom sink. The water then came back up through the shower drain, filled the shower pan, then flooded the cabin. If this has happened to a trailer I don’t see how you would ever completely eliminate the smell. I would ask the previous owner if this happened to your trailer. Read this thread https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/3447-left-black-tank-clean-out-hose-on/

Battery gas? Have you looked for leaks in the battery compartment?

@jd1923 What is the stuff attached to the Simpson Strong Tie? Have you replaced the quarter turn valves with solenoids?

Summary: make sure your accumulator is not rubbing against the bottom of the curb side bunk. Check the cutouts above the rear jacks. Check the duct under the curb side bunk. I noticed black dust on the board that the water pump and accumulator are mounted to. Turns out that the pump, piping, accumulator, valve, etc. assembly doesn’t really fit together well but it is screwed to the board anyway. The misalignment between the pump and accumulator caused the rubber bushing in the mount on one side of the accumulator to become dislocated and the accumulator rubbed against the bottom surface of the curb side bunk. I caught it before it wore through. I also noticed that both cutouts to access the studs to manually operate the rear jacks don't line up with the studs and would have made it hard to manually operate the jacks. I’ll enlarge these later. Also the 2 bolts on the rear curb side jack could rub through the heater duct.

If you stay at the campground in Grand Marais drive to the end of the Gunflint Trail and back.

I received an MSDS from Truma. For those who are interested, see Paragraph 13 on page 7 of the English language version. I think I’ll dump it in my gravel driveway rather than put it in my septic system. truma-watersystems-aquago-decalcification-tablets.pdf

I’m hooked up to my brand new home septic system and it’s time to decalcify my Truma AquaGo. I can’t find anything about the rinsate being septic system safe. Does anyone know what the tablets are made of and what the rinsate might do to a septic system?

I buy the Midwest fuel cans at TSC, throw away the spouts, and then put an EZ Pour spout and vent cap on the can. Use a step bit to drill the hole for the vent. The can seals up so tight it’ll swell up like a dead armadillo and still not pop the vent. https://ezpourspout.com/?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIm__Rk-6hhgMVlyvUAR3AMgX9EAAYASAAEgKmU_D_BwE

@jd1923 my guess is the hose clamp on the through hull fitting is loose or the fitting itself is cracked and water from the fresh tank sloshing has run down and out the hull drain. Hull 313 only has one hull drain in that area , plus the fridge drain and the overflow drain. I would remove the drawers and the panel at the back of the drawer cavity and make sure the sink trap fitting is tight and that you don’t have a leak from the faucet. Then stick your phone camera in behind the fridge and make a video.

Do you have water in your fresh tank? The reason I ask is on our OEII the fresh water overflow tube clamp was loose on the tank fitting and we had water dripping from those holes. The water under the fridge drain is normal. Picture through hole in bottom of kitchen cabinet. Hole was installed by factory service department so they could tighten the clamps.

Update: The chirping started again after about 2 days. I ran the fan on the highest setting for several hours and now the fan is quiet again.

Are you looking for the fan motor data label or the model and SN of the whole fan? This is the model of the whole fan on 2019 hull 313. Remove the screen and you will see this label.

Do this from the inside. Remove shades. Slide screen to middle of window frame. Grasp lower left and lower right corners of screen frame. Lift the lower corners at the same time so that the bottom of the screen frame clears the track. Pivot the lower edge of the screen frame towards you and drop the top edge of the screen frame out of the top track. The rear screen is different. It has 2 clips on the bottom and 2 clips on the top. If trailer is not on fire, gently pull on the bottom frame until clips release then the top of the frame will fall free. The rear screen does not fit in a track so note the positions of the clips before removing the screen. If trailer is on fire, grab the red trapezoidal shaped tab, yank the screen out, fling it to the side, then dive head first out the window.

For years our MaxxFan 7000K has made a high pitched chirping noise at lower speeds. I had been told that it was due to pulse width modulation speed control so I didn’t try to fix it. My wife can’t hear the noise but it really annoys me. I finally googled and found this video. I cleaned the brush dust out of the motor and now the fan is pretty quiet. Be aware that black dust will come out of the motor when it is disassembled so you might have someone hold something under the motor as you pull it apart.

@Geronimo John look inside the rear bumper. There is a rubber seal around the sewer pipe where it goes into the lower left rear of the trailer that will become dislocated and permit dust intrusion. Reposition the seal and place a clamp around the sewer pipe to keep the seal from slipping back out of the hole. I used a Stainless steel Banjo TC-331 just snug. Not tight.

Summary: Check under your kitchen sink I walked up to an Oliver at a campground one time to introduce myself. I noticed water running down the curb side rear stabilizer. After exchanging greetings I brought the leak to the attention of the owner. After looking under the curb side bunk and finding nothing I suggested that he look under the kitchen sink for the source of the leak. Upon removal of the drawers he found water soaked plywood caused by a loose coupling on the kitchen sink drain trap. Since then I have tried to check mine occasionally to ensure that it is tight and to look around for any other problems. Today I found that the quarter turn stop on the hot water was not completely open. It had probably been like that since we took delivery. Anyway, I opened it and improved the hot water flow at the sink. Occasionally remove your (kitchen) drawers and check on stuff down there -tightness of the drain coupling -quarter turn stops fully open -refrigerator plug plugged in -hose weight located between back of drawers and rear of cabinet carcass -hose not twisted -any sign of moisture -anything rubbing against something -and especially that blue clip on the faucet hose assembly. There was an owner that heard water running underneath her sink when she turned the faucet on. Turns out that blue clip was missing and the hose had completely separated. We have a 2018 OEII, hull 313. Some of this stuff has probably changed. The round port was added after production to access a loose clamp on the exit end of the fresh tank overflow hose. It sure is useful for checking below the cabinets. There is a plumbing vent under the back right corner of the range. It is supposed to let air in and not let grey tank smells out. If you are smelling something foul (grey tank odors, not black tank odors) and you can’t locate a leak you might have a bad plumbing vent.

Here is the response I received from Jason in July 2019 regarding faucet model number used in Hull 313. Here’s the cartridge I used. Get a couple of spares. I ordered one from Amazon and Dura sent me one under warranty. I need to replace mine again. https://www.amazon.com/Dura-Faucet-DF-RK601-Cartridge-Replacement/dp/B072BVH7KB Don’t forget the socket wrench. Mine came from a set that I bought at a Menards in Marquette MI. It’ll make the job real easy. You may have to clock the faucet base if it has been twisted out of position. See my write up in this thread.

I asked service what was being used and the response was ASI 335.