Townesw

I don’t think a torque setting between 45-70 lb-ft applied with a torque wrench using a universal joint as shown in this photo actually transfers the set amount of torque to the fastener. From what I have read it is much lower and can vary greatly depending on how the torque wrench is supported and the angle of the universal joint. I checked mine earlier this year and found that I couldn’t get a socket/torque wrench on them so I tightened them as tight as I could using a 9/16 inch box end wrench. May go back again with a socket on a longer breaker bar. If all 4 nuts fell off the tire/wheel assembly isn’t going to come off because the hub/drum is held in place by the spindle nut. I don’t think the backing plate can move far enough into the hub/drum for the mounting studs to clear the holes in the backing plate mounting flange. Don’t get me wrong, I want my backing plate nuts tight, but I’m just thinking about what might happen if all 4 nuts fell off.

I’ve got 2 of these Alemite guns with hoses. They have a pressure release valve. Will still get a drip from them occasionally but not like the Lincoln or Lubrimatic I have or have had. https://www.skf.com/alemite/products/grease-guns/professional/pistol-grip-gun/index.html

Disregard

Also, I have this coupling on all of my grease guns. A long hose helps also. I sometimes use both hands to get the coupling on a zerk and then have my wife squeeze the grease gun handle.

Well you’ve got me wondering now. Back your rear axle up on something-a leveling wedge or a stack of blocks, anything to raise that back axle up. The equalizer should rotate as shown in the picture below. Then feel for the zerk as shown and see if it is easier to access. If it works then do the same to the front axle to make the other zerk accessible. Edit: Actually, raising and lowering the front end with the jack might produce the same effect. Let me know how this works.

How do you clear your notifications?

Thanks Jason! This new forum software looks great! Questions: 1)On the old forum I could click on the banner at the top to go to the Oliver website. Clicking on the banner above no longer goes to the Oliver website. How do I get to the Oliver website from this forum? 2)There used to be a “slide out” or “drop down” menu with a tab to access Service. How do I access Service now? 3)How will posts created in the old forum react to being modified in the new forum? The following picture is a test insertion And we can now insert videos B6B3F93C-8AE7-416C-AE1E-C6CCE4A1A808.MOV

John, here’s the water line you mention

Thanks John. The wrench comes in a set like this https://www.harborfreight.com/shower-valve-socket-wrench-set-96322.html?cid=paid_google I used the 29/32 x 31/32 wrench. You can get the wrench set at “most good hardware stores”. As for the pictures, I take and edit them on my iPhone. It’s often frustrating but I can do it sitting in a chair in the shop.

Stuff you will need https://www.americansealantsinc.com/adhesivecleanerandremover/ https://www.americansealantsinc.com/asi-335-neutral-cure-silicone-sealantadhesive/ PLASTIC razor blades. Do not use steel. Change these plastic blades often. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/titan-5120/paint—body-repair-16614/body-repair-16510/body—trim-tools-25197/razor-blades-scrapers-17948/1c24653634cf/titan-scraper-blades/12038/4753744?pos=17 Remove the steel blade from this holder and insert a plastic razor blade. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/titan-5120/paint—body-repair-16614/body-repair-16510/body—trim-tools-25197/razor-blades-scrapers-17948/1c24653634cf/titan-scraper/12031/4753743?pos=18

Make sure hose is not twisted. It will pull out and go back in much easier. Mark these wires before you unplug them

I’ve been under my sink to realign the faucet after replacing the cartridge. Use plastic razor blades to remove old caulk from the shelf and vanity. ASI 0240 works real well to remove old caulk. ASI 335 is what I just used to reseal my shower pan. I think you’ll need one of these wrenches to keep from having to use a pair of Channellock plies which will mar your new faucet Wrench in use What it looks like under there Be sure to “clock” the faucet centerline so that it is perpendicular to the wall otherwise the wand will either hit the wall or swivel out from above the sink and the hot vs. cold adjustment will be awkward.

MaryRn I see where no one has responded to your request so I’ll post this to hopefully stir up some more responses. I have the Dometic Atwood furnace in Hull 313 but I remember reading this thread about the Suburban furnace that made me glad I had the Dometic Atwood https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/suburban-furnace-acting-very-erratic/#post-190686 From this thread it sounds like the Suburban is a bear to get to. I have had the sail switch out on my Dometic Atwood and it was no problem. Edit: Well I just looked and I have an Atwood furnace but I think Atwood is part of Dometic now.

You’re very welcome. Glad I could help.

I measured 4-3/8 one side, 4-7/16 other side. Measured as pictured below. 51 psi in the tires. Sitting level on concrete floor.

Those of you who have shower pans that squeak and flex, check under the black mat in your closet and see if you have or have had water there. I found water under ours and traced it to a crack in the caulk between the shower pan and wall. The crack was not easily visible when no one was standing on the pan but when weight was applied to the pan the edges flexed in slightly and the crack opened up. We keep the nose of our camper slightly elevated so the water ran back against the inside of the wall under the shower door then ran towards the closet and came through this hole in the bottom corner of the closet

Work slowly and use the plastic razor blades and other plastic tools to remove the old sealant. I ordered 1 can of the ASI 0240 was very impressed with the ASI 0240 cleaner/remover. I ordered 2 tubes of the ASI 335. You’ll only need a small amount but get 2 tubes in case one is bad. Remove all of the old caulk using whatever combination of plastic tools work. I didn’t spray the ASI 0240 directly on the surfaces but instead sprayed it on a rag and wiped it on the sealant to be removed. I used rubbing alcohol very sparingly for the final wipe down prior to applying the ASI 335. Apply the sealant by pushing it ahead of the nozzle and force it into the gap. Quickly smooth it with your finger but do not get it too thin. The folks at the factory remove too much of the sealant and it only “bridges” the gap instead of filling the gap and leaving a bead or fillet to provide a proper seal. The thin bridge will not properly seal the shower wall/pan gap. I can not stress this enough. When you step on the pan the bottom flexes down and causes the edges to pull inward slightly. By placing weight in the pan prior to resealing you open that gap up slightly to hopefully allow more sealant into the gap. Use at least 100 lbs. More would be better. Let the sealant cure for a couple of days before removing the pre-load weight.

Photos showing caulk removed. Note that the tractor weight is in place when these pictures were made. The weight has a towel under it and is covered with a towel. Tractor weight in shower floor. This weight is probably 100 lbs. (continued)

Stuff you will need https://www.americansealantsinc.com/adhesivecleanerandremover/ https://www.americansealantsinc.com/asi-335-neutral-cure-silicone-sealantadhesive/ PLASTIC razor blades. Do not use steel. Change these plastic blades often. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/titan-5120/paint---body-repair-16614/body-repair-16510/body---trim-tools-25197/razor-blades-scrapers-17948/1c24653634cf/titan-scraper-blades/12038/4753744?pos=17 Remove the steel blade from this holder and insert a plastic razor blade. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/titan-5120/paint---body-repair-16614/body-repair-16510/body---trim-tools-25197/razor-blades-scrapers-17948/1c24653634cf/titan-scraper/12031/4753743?pos=18 (continued)

I have removed all of the sealant around my shower pan and resealed it without having to completely remove the pan. After removing all of the sealant I placed a tractor front end weight in the shower pan to pre-load it before resealing it. This pulled the edges away from the wall to allow more caulk into the gap. The caulk applied at the factory was smoothed too thin and the flexing of the shower pan caused the gap to open between the shower wall and pan and allowed water to leak down the wall between the shower and closet. I had water under the mat in the closet. After my repair I have not had any more water in the closet. I realize your problem is a squeaky shower pan instead of a leak but I believe you will have to do as I have done to fix your problem. (continued)

Haha, I knew what that meant without having to Google it.

Just recently everyone’s “avatars” have started showing up MUCH larger. Is it just me or is anybody else having this problem?

This Bimobil rig was parked next to us at Liberty Harbor RV Park just across the Hudson from Manhattan. Wanted to take a look inside but never saw the owners. Looks like Switzerland tags? Tried to pull up the website shown on the top left rear but couldn’t. https://www.bimobil.com/en/

Yes I have it also and mine stays in an enclosed shop when it’s not on the road.

Yes I noticed that also Overland and it’s on my To Do list. I have ASI 335 Sealant and ASI 0240 Cleaner on hand, just need to get to it. https://www.americansealantsinc.com/asi-335-neutral-cure-silicone-sealantadhesive/ https://www.americansealantsinc.com/adhesivecleanerandremover/