Townesw

I created this post in response to a request for help on an Atwood furnace some time ago. Don’t know if the Suburban is similar. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/need-help-in-a-really-cool-place-but-no-heat/#post-148492

A lock in the coupler lever is not needed. The wire bail is easily sprung out of the holes.

We’ve had #313 since March 2018 and the propane detector has never gone off. I think Overland may be correct:

Overland, I’m logged in also and can’t see the classifieds.

Is anyone else having problems with the forum? It won’t let me logout. If I try to look at the classifieds I get Error 404. The posts don’t “look” the same. I tried to post this same question yesterday and couldn’t. I am using an iPhone.

Thanks Mountainoliver. That’s the best method I’ve seen. Are those 1/2 inch Grade 8 bolts?

Dave, I also like what you said about hook attachment to tow vehicle in this thread https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/newby-question-hammerlocks-towing-hooks-ford-f150/#post-182187 I’m interested in how you are attaching the chains to your trailer. SAE document J684 states that EACH component be rated, in our case (Class 4), to the GVWR of the trailer. The clevises now used have a WLL of 1.5T or 3000 lbs and I’m looking for a way to secure EACH chain to the trailer with a device rated for at least 6000 lbs. With the hooks (to fit a 2500HD hitch) and chain that I intend to use, the chain to trailer attachment will be by far the weakest part of the system. I understand that WLL is “approximately” 1/3 of the break strength but all we have to go on is what is actually stamped on the device.

Are those hooks being held by magnets? Need more info please on how you have those chains secured to the tongue.

Sherry and Steve, I’ve sent both of you PMs.

Does anyone have pictures of the bathroom with shower pan removed?

I leave my wheel centers off. It’s much easier to check hub temperatures and adjust the spindle nut if needed after bearing service.

Steve, thanks but I’m not interested in yours but it would be a nice unit for someone else. I’m interested in an AH3 with some additional features built in. Be sure to take all your squirrel tails and drop them off at the Mepps factory in Antigo. They’ll pay you cash money for them. Or double the cash value in Mepps merchandise. Can’t beat that.

How much weight do you have in the back of your truck? The 250 is an HD truck and the Oliver is a light trailer with a fairly low tongue weight. It might ride better with more weight in the bed. Just a thought.

I’ve had to remove the shelf under the bathroom sink. I found some plastic razor blades and scraped the old sealant off the fiberglass around the hole and the plastic around the shelf edge. I can’t scrape any more off. Is there a solvent that will remove the thin layer of remaining sealant or do I just put it back together and seal with new sealant? This is the sealant I will be using https://www.boatlife.com/product/lifeseal-sealant-tubes/

I had to go in under the bathroom sink to work on the faucet. I’ll post about that later. Took some pictures while I was in there to show Steve’s explanation of the black water to grey tank to shower drain path.

We were traveling from Grand Marais MN to Baileys Harbor WI today and made a detour to Antigo WI where Slide Masters are made. This is the company that made ScubaRx’s slide out tray. Looked at a display at a store there and also a Slide Master in the bed of the truck that belongs to the fellow that runs the company. All of their slide outs are custom made to your dimensions. Based on what I saw today I think I’ll go with the Slide Master. Traveling through Antigo I saw a sign “SQUIRREL TAILS WANTED”. Turns out Mepps Spinners (fishing lures) are made here. https://www.mepps.com/

How to make your sewer water flow slightly uphill Addition to initial setup

So both the black tank and grey tank drains were left open and the drain line was capped at the rear of the camper?

Check the condition of the gasket in the bottom of your bowl. The pressure from the clean out hose may have blown the seal out of place which would explain the water coming up and then receding once your neighbor turned the faucet off.

If you left water flowing into the black tank clean out then the water in your floor came up through the toilet. Not up through the shower drain. The water may have first filled the grey tank and then the shower pan and then your trailer but it came up through the toilet first. But what doesn’t make sense is how did the water get past the gate in the bottom of the toilet bowl? Was your grey tank full after you discovered the problem? Was your toilet bowl full?

[postquote quote=180273][/postquote] Ken, When I was towing with the Chevrolet 1500 I had 7 threads showing. I tightened them real tight to try to reduce bucking. With the Duramax I have now I have backed off to 6 and will probably back off to 5. The ride is so much better with the 3/4 ton truck.

[postquote quote=179751][/postquote] I just started using the Hitch Vise. They are not made in the US anymore. At least mine wasn’t.

Check the cotter pin, aka split pin, that keeps the step rod in place. There should also be a thick flat washer on the rod.

[postquote quote=175502][/postquote] I can’t figure out what causes this. I wonder if there are baffles or supports inside the tank that, when the trailer attitude and water level is just right, traps air that prevents the kitchen sink from draining. There is a one way air vent under the kitchen counter but it should only allow air in and not out.

Is your trailer fairly level front to back and side to side? Is the bathroom sink and shower drain valve open (the one beside the toilet - is the handle pulled out)? Those tank level indicators are not real reliable. The level is greatly affected by the attitude of the trailer.