Townesw

I agree it doesn’t look good but I guess it’s the best they can do.

They are on our 2018 LE2 also. Only you got a lot more. It’s sealant over these screws.

Remove the three left kitchen drawers. Remove the plywood panel at the back. See picture for location of the plug. Before you put everything back together move the weighted sink hose so that it is between the back of the drawers and the back wall of the cabinet.

Was the water under your refrigerator area coming from the fresh water tank overflow or from the refrigerator drain? If coming from the refrigerator drain, was it coming out of the tube or from a gap between the tube and the hull?

I found the thread on this forum that mentions the split fitting under the basement floor. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/city-water-connection/#post-161513

My overflow tube clamp was loose. The fellows at the factory added this port But if I had it to do over I would have cut the hole myself and made it larger. I’ve got some measurements to make the job less scary if you ever need to cut the hole.

There has been a thread regarding a split coupling that will create the leak from the rear street side drain you are describing Hobo. I can not find it on this forum (edit: I found it - see my post below) but I am sure it was on the Facebook page. Look for the post by Tom Cagle on August 12 at 3:38pm on the Facebook Oliver Owners Group.

I created this post in response to a request for help on an Atwood furnace some time ago. Don’t know if the Suburban is similar. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/need-help-in-a-really-cool-place-but-no-heat/#post-148492

A lock in the coupler lever is not needed. The wire bail is easily sprung out of the holes.

We’ve had #313 since March 2018 and the propane detector has never gone off. I think Overland may be correct:

Overland, I’m logged in also and can’t see the classifieds.

Is anyone else having problems with the forum? It won’t let me logout. If I try to look at the classifieds I get Error 404. The posts don’t “look” the same. I tried to post this same question yesterday and couldn’t. I am using an iPhone.

Thanks Mountainoliver. That’s the best method I’ve seen. Are those 1/2 inch Grade 8 bolts?

Dave, I also like what you said about hook attachment to tow vehicle in this thread https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/newby-question-hammerlocks-towing-hooks-ford-f150/#post-182187 I’m interested in how you are attaching the chains to your trailer. SAE document J684 states that EACH component be rated, in our case (Class 4), to the GVWR of the trailer. The clevises now used have a WLL of 1.5T or 3000 lbs and I’m looking for a way to secure EACH chain to the trailer with a device rated for at least 6000 lbs. With the hooks (to fit a 2500HD hitch) and chain that I intend to use, the chain to trailer attachment will be by far the weakest part of the system. I understand that WLL is “approximately” 1/3 of the break strength but all we have to go on is what is actually stamped on the device.

Are those hooks being held by magnets? Need more info please on how you have those chains secured to the tongue.

Sherry and Steve, I’ve sent both of you PMs.

Does anyone have pictures of the bathroom with shower pan removed?

I leave my wheel centers off. It’s much easier to check hub temperatures and adjust the spindle nut if needed after bearing service.

Steve, thanks but I’m not interested in yours but it would be a nice unit for someone else. I’m interested in an AH3 with some additional features built in. Be sure to take all your squirrel tails and drop them off at the Mepps factory in Antigo. They’ll pay you cash money for them. Or double the cash value in Mepps merchandise. Can’t beat that.

How much weight do you have in the back of your truck? The 250 is an HD truck and the Oliver is a light trailer with a fairly low tongue weight. It might ride better with more weight in the bed. Just a thought.

I’ve had to remove the shelf under the bathroom sink. I found some plastic razor blades and scraped the old sealant off the fiberglass around the hole and the plastic around the shelf edge. I can’t scrape any more off. Is there a solvent that will remove the thin layer of remaining sealant or do I just put it back together and seal with new sealant? This is the sealant I will be using https://www.boatlife.com/product/lifeseal-sealant-tubes/

I had to go in under the bathroom sink to work on the faucet. I’ll post about that later. Took some pictures while I was in there to show Steve’s explanation of the black water to grey tank to shower drain path.

We were traveling from Grand Marais MN to Baileys Harbor WI today and made a detour to Antigo WI where Slide Masters are made. This is the company that made ScubaRx’s slide out tray. Looked at a display at a store there and also a Slide Master in the bed of the truck that belongs to the fellow that runs the company. All of their slide outs are custom made to your dimensions. Based on what I saw today I think I’ll go with the Slide Master. Traveling through Antigo I saw a sign “SQUIRREL TAILS WANTED”. Turns out Mepps Spinners (fishing lures) are made here. https://www.mepps.com/

How to make your sewer water flow slightly uphill Addition to initial setup

So both the black tank and grey tank drains were left open and the drain line was capped at the rear of the camper?