mossemi

Broken Closet/Toilet Flange Replacement So as is usually the case with whatever I touch, I break something else! Or maybe it’s just an opportunity to learn something new. While camping over the Thanksgiving holidays, we suffered a water pump switch problem in the bath vanity. I had to remove the vanity caddy while troubleshooting and there were 2 wires off of the switch mounted at the top of the caddy when I pulled it out. I doubt 2 wires fell off at the same time, so I think maybe 1 was off and caused the problem and the other fell off during caddy removal. This gave me the opportunity to start a plumbing project and install a hatch in place of the caddy as NCeagle did here. So I was sitting on the throne cleaning up the hatch caulking job and broke the closet/toilet flange while rocking around. After removing the toilet, I removed the 4 screws holding the flange in place and remembering someone else’s flange replacement, I just pulled up on it and one side moved a half inch or so. I then moved a piece of wood under that side and worked the other side and the flange pulled out. The 4" tail of the flange fits into a rubber gasket in top of the black tank. I have ordered some parts from HD that may or may not be correct one’s, but I’ll know in a week or so and post the conclusion to the story. Until then, enjoy the pictures Mossey Break flange description tank and gasket

78.5" and 171" on mine, just eyeballing in the dark. Mossey

I think Overland mentioned an obstruction in that area in one of his postings. He cut a hole below his sink or maybe the refrigerator, I dont remember exactly. I think he may have been reworking his ductwork. Thank you for the pictures, they will be helpful. Mossey

Overland and I had a discussion about using the SHOWERMI$ER that Steph and Dud B posted a link to on January 1st, to create a Truma AquaGo Comfort Plus. I reached out to him because he is the only person I now of the has the Comfort Plus. He then posted about adding the tee inside of the Truma to recirculate the cold water back to the water heater, where the SHOWERMI$ER routed it back to the tank. Either method required a return pipe to work and I was still leaning towards Overland’s idea of just using a manual shower diverter which would definitely be better looking than the SHOWERMI$ER. And "BOOM", you jumped in with a different and excellent twist. One thought that I had was to connect the return to the fresh water fill line near the check valve on the street side if I couldn’t route it back on the curb side to the fill line. Did you give any consideration to connecting to the fill line on the street side instead of the curb side? And could you share a picture of your connection to the fill line? Mossey

topgun2 and I had this discussion in the past and he remembers correctly. There is a combination Smoke/CO detector above the street side bed, below the attic. So, I think an additional CO monitor should be located near the thermostat. Mossey

I prefer my trips to Silverton via the D&SNG Railroad. The views are nearing as good as The Million Dollar Highway and as the designated driver, I actually get to see them and leave that driving to the engineer in the striped cap! Mossey

My TST'S are mounted on rubber and I love ‘em. Keep looking, there’s something or somebody for everyone.

Since I do not know the model number of your tv or remote, I’ll throw this out there. Mossey How do I get my Vizio TV to scan for channels? How to rescan for antenna channels on your Vizio TV Press the INPUT button on your remote to view your current input source. ... If the TV input is not selected, press INPUT until the TV input mode is selected. Open the on-screen menu and select TV or Tuner option. ... Highlight Tuner Mode and select the correct option:

Just to clarify this response, I am trying to address your statement “quirky readings of the monitor”. I have looked at your pictures and of course they created more questions. So I am going to try a different approach and show you some of my installation. This is a view of the battery box after I removed all other wiring so you can compare yours to mine and move any negative wires to the load side of the shunt. This picture is of the Victron shunt and the negative bus bar I installed. I am not sure what “quirky readings” really means in your case. This YouTube video will explain the BMV-712 installation better than I can. PM me if you what to talk about this. Mossey

I replaced all 4 of my outside light fixtures with fixtures that have 2 sets of LED bulbs, one set is white like the stock lights and the other is amber which is what I really wanted. The 2 different light sets required an extra power wire and a 3 way switch. The front curbside light was a the easiest of the 4 lights to fish a new power wire from the access port above the microwave location as Steve mentioned above. It was a challenge to work through a 1/4''' hole that I eventually enlarged to 3/8'' which was okay because the new light fixture would cover the hole. If I remember correctly, I used a of solid copper wire. It was a piece of either #12 or #14 gauge wire I had in my wire box. Mossey

I will study these pictures and get back to you. Mossey

Is your shunt installed as I described other than the portable solar. The BMV is not going to consider the input from your portable panel because the negative connection is on the wrong side of the shunt if the shunt is installed correctly. Can you provide pictures of the battery cabling as well as the shunt. As far as I know, nearly all Victron support is online, try this link. https://community.victronenergy.com/index.html Mossey

This guide may help. You also said: Install Zamp solar port in battery compartment door and to battery bank (some say to the busses, whatever they are) Below is a picture of a busbar. It is used to allow multiple connections on either the positive or negative side of the battery bank, just like your fuse box at home. The difference is that in the fuse box each wire or circuit is attached to a breaker and the breaker connects to the busbar. When your rv tech installed the BMV-712, it included a shunt that is connected to the negative side of the battery bank. The shunt has 2 posts with one post connected to the battery negative post and that should be the only wire or cable connected to the negative side of the battery bank. All other negative wires should connect to the other post on the shunt. There usually isn’t enough room on that post for all of the wires to connect to, so a busbar is added to increase the connection points. The BMV display is connected between the 2 shunt posts and measures the amount of energy going into or out of the battery bank. Mossey

I agree with you that the lever should be perpendicular to the quick connect fitting. My rear quick connect fitting lever has been bumped by sewer hoses a couple of times and ended up in the parallel position. Mossey edit: Mike beat to the response

Thank you. That makes sense to me based on the location. Mossey

Now that’s far from the madding crowd! Thank you. Mossey

As it should be. Is the cutoff on the input or output of the charge controller? Mossey

A tarp would also work to cover the solar panels. And I think the easiest place to put a cutoff switch or circuit breaker before the charge controller would be in the street side overhead cabinet behind the radio and charge controller. Access the rear of the charge controller through the round hatch. Mossey

I agree! My 2017 was equipped with a automatic resetting circuit breaker on the positive output of the Zamp charge controller and without a manual disconnect before or after the charge controller. I did install a circuit breaker before and after the Victron charge controller when I installed it. If you do not have a method to disconnect the solar charge controller output, I would suggest you purchase a moving blanket and cover the solar panels whenever you are working on the solar system and batteries. Mossey

I stumbled upon this site selling Dinosaur boards. It may or may not be the one you need, but the description says it is a replacement for the 293 series boards. I haven’t had any problems with my refrigerator to date, so I don’t have any practical knowledge concerning troubleshooting your problem. Mossey

I would like to see a picture of the 7 cubic ft refrigerator/freezer from the bath area showing the left side. It looks to me that it may intrude into the entry area 2 - 4 inches. And I wonder if it is a picture of an actual trailer or just a photo shopped image. Do you think a replacement would fit through the door in the event of a failure? Mossey

Never have tried the neutral position because the Fairview instructions do not mention that setting. Mossey Fairview LP Gas Regulator.pdf

I like the Truma LevelCheck. Link to YouTube video. Mossey

I believe Overland was the first Battle Born adopter on this forum. He is also the first person that I remember discussing RV's being eligible for the solar rebate. My wife and I had the opportunity to tour Snowball at the 2018 Oliver Owner’s Rally and we were very impressed with the mod’s he has completed. So when my original batteries needed replacing, I started researching Lithium batteries based upon his experience. This Battle Born battery tear down by Will Prowse was the clincher for me. Mossey

The decal was made or sourced by Olive in 2018. I found the silhouette on Etsy by an artist in the UK, purchased a small piece and requested permission to reuse the art for the decal. He approved my request and sent me a jpeg file. I added the text and sent it to Oliver and they installed it while completing some service work. I requested some additional decals from Oliver last year and they declined. Banana Banner’s come highly recommended from other OTTO'S and some have had local sign shops complete their decals and help with the artwork. Mossey