mossemi

Whichever Victron battery monitor you choose will be fine, but I think you would be the first Oliver owner to install a 1000 Amp shunt if you buy the one in your provided link. I believe most people here have used the 500 Amp shunts which run about $130. Based on my experience with Victron devices equipped with Bluetooth radios, the connectivity depends on where you place it. The Bluetooth radio with the BMV-712 is in the display, so your install with the display in the upper cabinet area has much better connectivity than mine which is in the lower hull. I doubt your charge control Bluetooth coverage is as robust as your 712. I experimented with my 712 before placing it in the lower hull and quickly realized I would be giving up at least 50% of the Bluetooth coverage if I placed below decks, but I planned on using the app and not the display from the start. I don’t think a Smart Shunt installation is viable any place but the lower hull. And the Bluetooth radio for the Smart Shunt is mounted to the shunt itself, so it’s inevitable the coverage is going to have a smaller footprint than a 712 installation with the display mounted high in the Oliver. Mossey

The Cradlepoint is a new option so you should ask your salesperson. Mossey

If I remember the original post correctly and that’s a 50/50 proposition, the RivNut was installed in the sidewall of the tray mount and a bolt threaded into the RivNut acted as a tray stop to prevent it from sliding. Mossey

Since it’s a propane and CO detector, I don’t think heat would be a factor. It is indeed a strange circumstance. Have you checked the date code on the unit? I know mine started acting erratically before the trailer was 5 years old, but I do think that is the advertised length of service. Mossey

I believe I said breaker 6 would kill all 12v in the trailer. It is powered by shore or any other 120v AC input you connect to the trailer. You can turn the solar charge controller off via the button on the face plate. And also try the breaker under the street side bed by pushing the red button. See the picture attached. Do you have a multimeter, test light or anyway to test voltage? Mossey

I have seen a lot of negative comments about the front end of the new Tunda. It seems a lot like comments on the Fiberglass RV forums about how sterile the inside of an Oliver looks to some people. The good news is that I will not have to look at it as I'm driving a late model GM, Ford, Dodge, Nissan or Toyota truck in the future. Mossey a Toyota owner for the last 20 years

Steve, That’s a messed up picture with 3 roofs and a ceiling.😁 Mossey

Zodd, You’re all good, just wanted you to know why there was a communication gap. Mossey

Zodd, I would guess that the confusion might come from the fact that Oliver changes their options from time to time. And since I am not shopping for a new Oliver, I had no idea that a Cradlepoint IBR900 was an option until you mentioned it. I doubt many people on this forum were aware of it either. There may be 3 or 4 owners that do have Cradlepoint's, but they did their own installations. So if Oliver is now offering it as an option, there must be a demand for it. But I haven’t heard anyone on this forum clamoring for an enterprise class wireless router as an option. Mossey

The picture of your PD panel label shows you have a 45 amp charger. If you turn of breaker 6 in the PD panel which is labeled charger, it will kill all of your 12v in the trailer as well as the charger circuit. Your battery box looks pretty typical for a LE2. Just make sure that the 3 red cable terminals coming into the battery box are taped up very well before traveling. You don’t want cables flopping around while you are driving. I believe the cable coming into the box on the bottom right is the 3rd red cable, but I can’t see it to be positive. Good luck and let us know if you have any more questions, Mossey

Since I am cheaper than Overland, I’m retired and he isn’t, I vote for a Battleborn battery or two or three. If you do decide to buy a "cheap" battery, try Walmart. Buy buddy swears by their deep cell lead acid batteries. Reno looks like a 10 hour trip so I don’t think it’s that convenient if your heading to Flagstaff, but as Overland suggest, call Battleborn first. You are in their neighborhood and they should be able to provide some guidance. Your Zamp charge controller should have lithium and lead acid settings, my 2017 LE2 did. Your PD charger may support a lithium setting with a jumper change, you need the serial number and confirm that with PD. Their support team is top notch and will steer you in the right direction. Did your camping neighbor check for voltage in the battery box during battery removal. You may need to turn off a breaker or two if there is still voltage on the battery cables. And post some pictures of your battery box wiring so we can offer wiring support for your new battery choice if you need it. I attached a Zamp manual below. Mossey ZAMP SOLAR ZS-30A Charge Controller.pdf

This picture is from a 2017 LE2 and it’s the inside of the attic with the installation pulled down. The cable from the camera to the connector is less than 18" from the roof penetration. Mossey

Thank you for the excellent write up! Mossey

Well you have less than 30 days before the mini rally. If you don’t get finished before then, bring it with you and we can give you hand or two.👏👏 Mossey

Mossey

I have a Truma Instant Water Heater so it is different than yours. But there was a recent post about a water pump problem and there was a picture that I believe might help. Mossey

Can you clarify this statement? The pump is obviously on but there is no demand for water and the pump is losing pressure very, very slowly is my best guess. And my best guesses generally get me in trouble. Nice diagnosis on the air in the system! Mossey

Now what are you going to do about getting the Christmas tree and Rubbermaid tubs off the top shelf?😁 Mossey

I would try JD's suggestion before anything else. If you do not understand what he means about filling the supply line, please ask for clarification. Now I have another question. Does the pump run when you turn it on and open a faucet? I reread your original post and you did say the pump was on and I assume you could hear the pump running and you did use the rear port to draw in the vinegar solution to clean the system. Mosssey

I edited your photo to add port designations for clarification. I can’t see all of the piping in the picture, but I assume that port A goes to the filter/suction side of the pump. And port B is closed by the valve, so port C should be from the fresh water tank. I can not be sure that port C is in fact from the fresh water tank or where port B goes or comes from. Can you verify the piping for ports B and C under the heating duct? It may be the the valve is in the incorrect position. Mossey

Try the search term in the picture below. Mossey

Very nice mod that reminded me of this previous post. Mossey

Thank you Paul! I saw a post this morning about traveling in cold weather and SeaDog responded with a link to your heater duct mod. After reading it, I realized I missed your original post or maybe I just forgot it. And I will add that it was very informative and nicely done. Mossey

Nicely done but I have to ask, what’s the coiled duct work for? Is that heat for camping up north? Mossey

The product is EZE RV Gutter. Use the search function for the term gutter and you will find more information than you need. Mossey