mossemi

That goes without saying! Mossey

Hull #193 did not have an OEM supplied disconnect, so I would get a ladder out and cover the solar panels with a tarp or moving blanket. That process got old in a hurry, so I added a disconnect between the panels and CC. There are lots of choices for this task, but this what I used. Mossey

They sure don’t build them like they used to! Mossey

I think I said the same thing about AMC's Gremlin and Pacer! Looking back, they still look weird! Mossey

That actually sounds like a great trip, a month going, a month there and a month back. Now if I just could convince Krunch of that! Mossey

My first Cybertruck sighting! I stopped at my favorite donut shop this morning on my way to the vet's office and this dark green Cybertruck was parked at the strip center. I have mixed thoughts on it’s looks, how about you? Mossey

I have a folding 100 watt solar panel with an on board CC. I have always thought that a CC mounted in the Ollie would be a better solution if I needed to place the solar panels further away from the batteries due to line loss. This would provide a higher voltage at the CC in the RV. Which led me to think a 3 position battery switch would be needed if I did mount the CC in the Ollie and wanted to supply 12V's to power an electric cooler. I can plug into my solar port now because it is wired straight to the batteries. Mossey

It looks like a bundle of Zamp Solar Panel to Charge Controller wire on top of the wheel well under the street side bed. Edit: I should have also mentioned that the wires are like a lamp cord in that both positive and negative are joined together. Zamp sold the bundle of wires in 25 or 30 foot lengths, but I’m not sure which. They run vertically up the wall to the radio cavity aft of the pantry. The solar charge controller is usually located above the radio and the wires would be cut in the cavity and attached to the CC input and output. The bundle in your picture would eventually go to batteries. Mossey

I think you mean amps, correct? In the past, some owners have solved some pump issues by closing the outside shower valves that were inadvertently left open. Mossey

The type that came pre installed on the mounts I bought from AM Solar.😂🙈😂 And I also used Dicor to protect the VBH tape per AM's instructions. Mossey

I replaced my Zamp PWM CC with a Victron MPPT CC which I installed beneath the street side bed and I had to connect the wiring from the solar panels to the wiring going to the Victron CC. That splice was done behind the original Zamp CC location. And I found that solar panel wiring ran from the original Zamp CC location back to the attic and up into the inner/outer hull cavity and onto the combiner box. It seems to be the same route mountainoliver mentions above. Mossey

I like to keep the grey tank closed so when I am ready to dump the black tank, I can use the grey water to flush the hose. I like to have about 75% grey when I dump black. If you have a composting toilet, this method does not apply. Mossey

If your drawers now open without trouble, it’s a good time to practice taking them out. Before you begin, a word of caution is needed! The edges of the metal portion of the drawer slides are very sharp, so be careful. Also take the time and unload the drawer you want to remove, it will make everything that follows easier to complete. Only 5 of our drawers come out, the exception being the one under the sink. So pick any of the other drawers and slide it all the out until it stops. Now put your thumbs inside the drawer on each side close to the front of the drawer and your fingers outside with the tips of your fingers under the bottom of the drawer. Now you should be able to feel the release for the drawer slide and squeeze the tips of your fingers to the outside of the drawer on both sides and slide the drawer out of the drawer slides. Dang if that paragraph doesn't have a lot of drawers in it! Or just get on the floor and slide a drawer out and you will see the orange handles that you will squeeze to remove the drawer. Good luck, Mossey

If you have decided where you were going to mount display, I was able to mount a a 7" Raspberry Pi touch display with the Pi mounted to it in the old Zamp CC hole. I replaced that with a GX Touch 70 display in the same location. Have you reached out to Galway Girl to discuss your wiring troubles? Mossey

We are all hopeful it works for you! And if you do need to add some additional support to keep it vertical, a couple of machine screws through the wall up high on your HDPE board wouldn’t be noticeable under the lip up the bed support. Mossey

I was curious about your use of HDPE and PC-11 Epoxy as I haven’t ever tried using the 2 products together. I haven’t used any of PC-Products line of adhesives, so I went their website and looked into their does and don't. I found the information below, so I will be looking forward to your results. Mossey

Very nice work Mike and I am talking about the write up and installation. Keep us posted with your progress. Is the stand for the MP2 a Victron product? I haven’t seen it before. Mossey

I like to use t-nuts and machine screws with my initial installation of equipment. Mossey

I think the material is the same as the trim boards mentioned above which is also available is sheets Mossey

I don’t think Oliver uses Starboard because I believe SeaDawg once mentioned that Starboard only excepts mechanical fasteners. I bought a piece Starboard to make attic access panels at HD and I think it resembles cutting board material more than anything else. This is the same trim board material that I have used with success, but I use JB Weld. I do believe the attaching to a horizontal surface is pretty straightforward, it’s the vertical placement that much more difficult. I have had pretty good success with 2 pieces of all thread joined with a coupling nut used as a spreader between the walls of the area under the beds or seats. Mossey

My thermostat was installed on the right side behind the upper vent. It was attached to the black piping of the evaporator or condenser. I haven’t tried it but I think running wiring to a switch near the main control panel by running up to the porthole in the upper cabinet above the microwave is doable. Mossey

Although my Ollie #193 has the fan in the same location as @topgun2 and @rideandfly I had to replace the original fan due to noise. My fan has an on or off switch mounted in the main switch panel inside the door and a thermostat midstream of the DC power supply before the fan which automatically controls the fan as long as it has the power switches on. Did you find a thermostat in your fans DC power supply? Mossey

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That’s the P-trap's job or in the Ollie, it's the one way valve under the kitchen sink topgun2 mentioned above. The bathroom has a P-trap and it creates a block in the vent system with water in the trap. The one way valve under the kitchen sink does the same with a valve. You said you don’t smell it anywhere else in the Ollie, so maybe you are bringing it inside when you enter the door, Mossey

If I remember correctly that’s the reason I went to work everyday! Mossey