mossemi

@JDB_Traveler Any update on the lighting problem you are experiencing? Mossey

Now would be a good time to invest in a multimeter or at the very least, a test light. My 2017 LE2 has an access port in the upper cabinet above the microwave which provides access to the back of the main lighting switch panel. It's a good place to check for a loose wire. Also check the upper and lower negative buss bars for a loose connection. Mossey

That looks like a crimp on cap on the blue wire, which tells me that it is not a dangling wire but one that was terminated during installation. Mossey

My TV is 12v. Is yours 120v? Mossey

I often use a paper clip or any other small conductor for testing. Mossey

@topgun2 You’re going to have do some math, which you are very good at. After all, who else can make a keeper out of every trout you catch? My SS 3/8" bolts measure 7" long from the bottom of the basket, so you will need to add the thickness of the bottom of the basket and your washers. The bottom of my basket sits 7/8” above the main beam. I used a piece SS flat bar stock measuring 1/8"x 2.5"x7" instead of washers in the front and the base of my bike rack, which is bolted down inside the basket in the rear. I used the OEM flat bar stock underneath with 1/8" Styrene Butadiene Rubber between the flat bar and the aluminum frame member. I used a sheet of 3/8"x12"x12" Styrenes Butadiene Rubber cut down to size between the fiberglass and the bottom of the basket. FYI: my basket is solid aluminum, not the expanded aluminum version. Mossey

No pictures, but I picked up an OEM basket in Hohenwald and installed it at home. I installed it with bolts instead of the u-bolts. I placed a rubber pad under the u-channel in front and on top of the fiberglass over the V shape of the frame, as well as a piece side to side at the back of the basket. Mossey

I am sorry if the brevity of my response to @rich.dev's post concerning a CC installation inside a OTT for a ground deployed solar array caused any confusion. It’s my "failure to communicate", a partial quote shamelessly stolen from Captain. In an attempt to clarify my response, my external Furrion solar port is wired with10 AWG wire and a 10A fuse inline on the B+ path to the battery bank and the 10 AWG wire for the B- terminates at a negative busbar prior to a Victron shunt on it's way to the battery bank. If I didn’t have a shunt, the B- would go straight to the battery bank. Mossey

I think a disconnect is a good idea whether it is required or not. My Furrion external solar port, which I installed, does not have a dedicated disconnect, but it does have a 10A inline fuse. My Renogy100W suitcase panels with onboard CC are foldable as the name suggests and that’s what I do. I work the cable connections from the external solar port out towards the panels with the MC4 connections last. I think the MC4 connectors are less likely to arc, but I still like the manual breaker solution. Now you just need to figure out where to put it. Mossey

That goes without saying! Mossey

Hull #193 did not have an OEM supplied disconnect, so I would get a ladder out and cover the solar panels with a tarp or moving blanket. That process got old in a hurry, so I added a disconnect between the panels and CC. There are lots of choices for this task, but this what I used. Mossey

They sure don’t build them like they used to! Mossey

I think I said the same thing about AMC's Gremlin and Pacer! Looking back, they still look weird! Mossey

That actually sounds like a great trip, a month going, a month there and a month back. Now if I just could convince Krunch of that! Mossey

My first Cybertruck sighting! I stopped at my favorite donut shop this morning on my way to the vet's office and this dark green Cybertruck was parked at the strip center. I have mixed thoughts on it’s looks, how about you? Mossey

I have a folding 100 watt solar panel with an on board CC. I have always thought that a CC mounted in the Ollie would be a better solution if I needed to place the solar panels further away from the batteries due to line loss. This would provide a higher voltage at the CC in the RV. Which led me to think a 3 position battery switch would be needed if I did mount the CC in the Ollie and wanted to supply 12V's to power an electric cooler. I can plug into my solar port now because it is wired straight to the batteries. Mossey

Just so everyone knows, you don’t have to live on Blueberry Hill or farm blueberry's to enjoy some blueberry pie! Mossey

Family should always come first! Hope everything turns out fine. Mossey

It looks like a bundle of Zamp Solar Panel to Charge Controller wire on top of the wheel well under the street side bed. Edit: I should have also mentioned that the wires are like a lamp cord in that both positive and negative are joined together. Zamp sold the bundle of wires in 25 or 30 foot lengths, but I’m not sure which. They run vertically up the wall to the radio cavity aft of the pantry. The solar charge controller is usually located above the radio and the wires would be cut in the cavity and attached to the CC input and output. The bundle in your picture would eventually go to batteries. Mossey

I think you mean amps, correct? In the past, some owners have solved some pump issues by closing the outside shower valves that were inadvertently left open. Mossey

The type that came pre installed on the mounts I bought from AM Solar.😂🙈😂 And I also used Dicor to protect the VBH tape per AM's instructions. Mossey

I replaced my Zamp PWM CC with a Victron MPPT CC which I installed beneath the street side bed and I had to connect the wiring from the solar panels to the wiring going to the Victron CC. That splice was done behind the original Zamp CC location. And I found that solar panel wiring ran from the original Zamp CC location back to the attic and up into the inner/outer hull cavity and onto the combiner box. It seems to be the same route mountainoliver mentions above. Mossey

What! I guess I better get busy on my Ollie do list! Mossey

I like to keep the grey tank closed so when I am ready to dump the black tank, I can use the grey water to flush the hose. I like to have about 75% grey when I dump black. If you have a composting toilet, this method does not apply. Mossey

If your drawers now open without trouble, it’s a good time to practice taking them out. Before you begin, a word of caution is needed! The edges of the metal portion of the drawer slides are very sharp, so be careful. Also take the time and unload the drawer you want to remove, it will make everything that follows easier to complete. Only 5 of our drawers come out, the exception being the one under the sink. So pick any of the other drawers and slide it all the out until it stops. Now put your thumbs inside the drawer on each side close to the front of the drawer and your fingers outside with the tips of your fingers under the bottom of the drawer. Now you should be able to feel the release for the drawer slide and squeeze the tips of your fingers to the outside of the drawer on both sides and slide the drawer out of the drawer slides. Dang if that paragraph doesn't have a lot of drawers in it! Or just get on the floor and slide a drawer out and you will see the orange handles that you will squeeze to remove the drawer. Good luck, Mossey