Geronimo John

Growing up, my family camped a lot. Many times near the end of the trip, if I had used and soiled all my T-shirts, my Mom would have me wear them inside out. She figured it looked better to the bears. When we are nowhere near a washing machine, I have to admit thinking about that experience and our sheets. Turn them inside out and swap sets, and it looks like clean sheets for all. Fortunately, my better half overruled the thought pretty quickly. However, it would be easy to put another set of tags on the back side of the sheet if one was "Sheet Side Dyslectic"! 🙂 GJ

Use of the word COMPLETELY POWER down is a foot stomper. Just killing the master switch (if you have one) still has power going into the batteries from several sources. Such power transfers could ignite vapors as I indicated above depending upon their concentration relative to the LEL and UEL's. SO, in addition to not being on shore power and shutting off the Master Switch: You would also need to disconnect from your solar panels (Both installed and portable), your TV 7-Pin, and of course your 12/12 DC to DC Charging System if you have one. And anything else coming into Ollie's hull that could cause power transfer or a spark. Such as a battery powered mosquito zapper, Etc.) Me, I would either move the smelly stuff out of Ollie or turn on the Max Fan and open windows. The odds of any of the above causing an explosion is all dependent upon the level of concentration of vapors. The odds of Olfactory Offense is only a function of dilution. However there are a few soft surfaces in Ollie that will absorb smells only to let them free later for more enjoyment. GJ

Assuming your not going to exceed the VOC Lower Explosion Limit or fall below the Upper Explosion Limit: My suggestion would be to install a shutoff switch for the CO / Propane alarm. John D. has a nice post about doing this in a professional manner. CJ

You surely ought to mention that detail to them. This ROF missed that point for sure.

That's more than just a little bit of sag...... You may want to check in with the Mother Ship Service Guru (Jason). I suspect he has seen it before. GJ

If at the Four Corners, don't pass up the opportunity to visit Grandma's!

If the nut is cracked, that's really serious. But if just the "Look Pretty" sleeve is cracked, I'm less concerned. Am I missing something? Like it may not come off the lug for service/flats? GJ

I like your heat gun idea better than the Rubbermaid box or tire tube mod. My goal is to keep the dust out of the generator so minimal dust entry points is a good idea. It would also hide the precious cargo from not nice eyes looking to finance their habits. Wonder what the fume ignition hazard is in the box or in our enclosed beds? GJ

For grins I checked out the Allison's AB Lifestyles Sheets. Pretty cool beans that they have our cot beds specifically designed for OTT! For sure appear to be well made and custom made for just us! Then I saw the price of those sheet sets.... OUCH! For now anyway, it's "Back to Walmart". GJ

Solution Optimization: Cut out part of the rib for the handle as you suggested. Then pop rivet in rubber tire tube to make a flexible roof over the handle area to keep dust out. It could have a slit for fume venting or made separate as you suggested above. GJ

Having containers such as yours in the pantry is UBER important. And pretty sweet too! This past summer our pantry shelving collapsed when we were in Canada. The white plastic clips that hold up the shelves failed and the wires on the rack also failed. The loose wires locked up the latch and it took destructive drilling of the latch to get the pantry open. Those latches are are quite expensive. Having containers spreads the load, keeps broken containers from being a REAL mess, and greatly reduces the propensity for the contents from successfully playing bumper cars on the shelves. Did I mention that one of the caultities of our event was a 1.75L bottle of Jack D? Tragedy of the highest order! If you have the white plastic shelf holders, please replace them with metal ones. While you are at it, I suggest adding 100% more of them too. Trust me we had a MESS. Thank you for the clear plastic suggestion! GJ PS: OTT Service is very aware of my terrible loss (1.75L) and the fix.

I double sided print two copies. One copy I highlight the text "Inside Trailer Copy". the other one I highlight Outside Trailer Copy. My "Cinc House" copy stays in the kitchen drawer. The outside copy in my truck. She does hers, and I do mine. The highlight trick has eliminated any question as to which copy is missing. 🙂 The check list has evolved each year and lets us fully prepare for departure each and every time. I have attached it as a .docx so you can tailor it to your needs. Enjoy, GJ CHECKLIST 2023 OE2 Pre-Departure Check Lists (25 NOV 2022 Version).docx

Sent you a PM. I'll be down near Splashway in mid July. Geronimo John

Re-read your post. I think Paul answered it better. There may be some adjustment in the hinges, but first make sure your Ollie is dead level as Paul suggested, then loosen the hinges and see if you can take up some slack to level the bathroom door to the OTT Frame. GJ

Paul raises a good question. IS your reassembled mirror frame not square, or is the installed mirror and frame not aligning with the OTT door opening? I'm addressing the former, and Paul I think is addressing the latter. GJ

Our 2023 Summer voyage is 1 JULY to October. Quite a bit shorter than our 2022 15,000 mile Houston to Alaska tour. Just heading up to Oklahoma and then SLC and King Mountain near Arco ID. Just about 6,000 miles or so.

If the replacement mirror was square, then the only way the assembled frame would not be square is if the adhesive mounted frame was installed not square or it has come loose, likely on the hinge side. This could happen if the assembly was hung before the adhesive fully set. The weight of the door could separate it at the top allowing such a sag. If this were the case, likely the top of the hinge trim would be separated from the top trim. GJ

As the nominator of SeaDog to this question, I suggest you provide them a ten-year free subscription to the OTT Owner's Forum. GJ

Wayfinder: I like your chock set between the wheels. I typically put them outside of the axle sets. Yea, a tomato/tomatto discussion. Your way though would require me to bend over just once to place both of them. YEA With a "tag line" between them, it would allow me to easily allow carry two sets of two in one hand. That saves travel time box to wheels and back for a second run to the other side. YEA X2 Thanks for the picture! GJ

Your AFA chocks are nice. $50 for four. I like the design and think the price is reasonable due to the extra material and forming costs it would entail. We carry in the front box of Ollie: Four of the below Harbor Freights (at $32 for four) A milk crate box of blocking 2 1/2 gallons of generator fuel Plus some other miscellaneous "stuff" The above fits nicely with room to spare. It is possible that the larger AFA's could as well, but it would be a tight fit.

I recollect that it may be SeaDog at Hull #12!

Am calling you directly. GJ

Here is my PI HW30 cheat sheet and the manual. Handy info to have when on the road. GJ OM - Progressive Industries HW30-50C (4 MAR 2023).pdfProgressive Ind. Surge Protector Codes (4 MAR 2023).docx

If that does not work, call me. I'll PM you my phone number. GJ

Hello Liana. My 2018 OE2 is the same model year as yours (Hull 342). Your inverter display is saying you have no 120 V power. Which one do you have? So first lets look at the power supply into the trailer. My assumption is that you do not have a multimeter. A. Take a 120 Volt appliance that you know works and plug it into your home or RV park outlet. This is just to ensure you have 120 V power there. B. Hook up your Shore power cord to the verified power source. On the trailer end there is a small LED light. If you have power to the cord end at trailer, then your cord is good. Connect it to the trailer. C. Now open up the street side bed and check the Progressive Industries Surge Protection System for power status. It looks like this. The small box is where it will talk to you. Looking at the small display LED,s here are the Display Codes. You should have power here. Advise if not. Advise if you have a display code. here is the chart. If you have power to the PI smart surge protector, then next step is to go to the breakers under the dining table, aft end. Check the 20 amp breaker. Turn the breaker OFF, and then reset it. Did the breaker imediatedly trip? Is it "Soft"? If you have power into the panel, cycle on the Air Conditioner. did it work? IF yes, you have power at the electrical panel. Hence likely is a bad 20 amp breaker to the GFCI or the GFCI itself is bad. Let us know what you find out before we go to Phase II. Geronimo John