Geronimo John

RB: Should your L6811 actually Be L68111? Thanks

We have a 2019 F-150 Lariat, 3.5 EcoBoost, FX4, Max Trailer Package, Anderson WDH. Have about 17,000 trailer miles mostly out west in the Mountains where we para-glide. My truck performance stat's mirror McMac's above so no need to repeat them. I must haul Ollie up steep grades, but not even close to John D's 18%. Generally mine are remote not paved, and 13% grade is what I see as a max grade on the truck computer. With a 6,000 Oliver EII, it is no problem going slow using the "Crawl" mode and 4wd. I have one section of 12 - 13% grade that I do 3 times a summer and I have no issues with this rocky, sometimes slick mountain road. However, last summer I had to come down this road after rain, lots of rain. I knew it was going to be a sloppy run and set up the F-150 using all the tools it had. Low range and locked the transmission into 2nd gear, locked the rear axle, 4X4, and set the crawl mode to about 6 MPH. At several really slick sections I manually lightly worked the trailer brakes to keep the speed to the set point and also to keep Ollie behind the truck and going the same direction. All the engineering worked better than expected. If I were to find myself in the same situation again, I would have: Waited a day if I could have. Dumped fresh and gray water tanks Loaded more stuff from Ollie into the truck and especially its bed Reduced air pressure in all tires by 10 to 12 PSI My grades are: For cross country running A+ For mountain paved roads A For sometimes graded mountain fire roads B+ If I were looking to purchase a new TV, I would get the same rig again. Geronimo John

John D. Very well said. Mahalo!

I have averaged about 8500 trailer miles for each of the past two years. I do my own R&R as well and use the synthetic lubricant that John D. recommended a year or two ago. My original bearings look good, and I just replaced the seals with Timken made (National) ones. I have a spare set of bearings and seals on board just in case. They were purchased from an authorized Timken distributor. They were not inexpensive..... All that said, at what mileage or age point is a bearing change recommended "just because"? Thanks,

Back of Beyond: There is some really good posts on the wear issue from the 2018 time frame. Also more pictures and observations about the then current Anderson WDH design. GJ

During the summers of 2018 and 2019, I put over 17,000 trailer miles on my Elite II. After many discussions with John D, I had OTT up-size to the 2 5/16" ball and Bulldog at the factory. My observations are: During the summer of 2018, I was using a Toyota Sequoia as my TV. For the Sequoia, I required all 7 threads of tension to get the weight distribution needed. During the summer of 2019, I was using a new F-150 Supercrew FX-4 with max trailer tow package as my TV. For the F-150, I required only 3 threads of tension to achieve the weight distribution needed. As stated in posts above, I observed that chain tension makes a big difference as to ball wear regardless of the ball size. But the larger ball displayed much less wear than others had documented with the 2" ball. With the Sequoia, the anti-sway part of the Anderson WDH system was important. With the F-150 it is much less so. With both vehicles, the weight distribution part of the Anderson IS very necessary. With the Sequoia, the cone self-destructed after only about 6,000 miles. I replaced it and started using a heavy grease on the cone and ball. So far with 11,000 miles on this set-up, the cone is still good and the larger ball has shown only minor wear. The extended life of the cone with the use of lubrication was significant. Granted, the loss of most if not all of the Anderson sway dampening is something each owner needs to consider for their set-up. But on my F-150 with 640 pounds of tongue weight, my Oliver has not demonstrated any sway what so ever. In summary, for my tow vehicle and trailer set-up, I believe that the good far outweighs the bad, and I will continue to lubricate my cone as well as ball. If I were to become a new OTT Elite II owner again, and were to use either the Sequoia or F-150 (As specified) for my TV, I would: Purchase the Anderson WDH System to meet the factory hitch weight limitations. Upgrade to the larger Bulldog and Ball. Use lubrication on the cone and ball to reduce wear of the hitch systems. I hope this is helpful.

I thank you all for the posts. I had not thought of the toggle switch covers as being readily available. I go by West Marine just about every day and will pick up a couple. Mike: Thanks for the lead on the Explore Land Waterproof Tongue Jack Cover. For less than $10, it is a great find. I have added it to my Amazon April Purchase List! You guys ROCK! Geronimo John

My the two weather covers that protect Jack light switch and the Up/Down Toggle) have worn out. Do we know of a source and P/N for them? I did not find any mention of them via search or Oliver University. Thanks!

I hitch Ollie to my truck and set the TV parking brake.......and pocket the keys! At least I know if my jacking skills fail me, it's not going to go very ....far other than down.

John: What is the purpose of having the nylon washers between the conveyor belting and the steel sub-frame? Thanks.

Mike: (Mcmac) I have the exact same set-up, but no Sumo or camper shell. My experiences are simular to yours. Only difference is I seeing 22 - 24 MPG flat land (Not Towing) running at 74 MPH. I call my TV "The Beast". Amazing truck.

The angle of the awning is dependent upon the supporting structure. You may want to extend it and then measure the sides and compare the results. The locking tabs for the side structural (supports) can be adjusted to increase or decrease the side supports.. Generally it is a good idea not to have it flat in either the side to side or the fore and aft directions. By having transverse slope both ways, heavy rains are handled with less force on both the fabric and the structural members. This may be what you are seeing.

Recommend that you winterize the trailer for the winter trip. For your first trip, give yourself lots of extra time. Check when the last full running gear service was completed. I highly recommend you read John Davies posts about bearings and Timken seals. If you don't get a good answer about the condition, age and service history, go to Timken and buy new bearings and seals. Keep an extra set of seals for annual bearing maintenance as well. (All this is in John's posts.) PS: Welcome to the Oliver Family! 🙂

Bugeyedriver post Nov 13, 2017 I am responding for additional information about your two basement 120V basement heaters. What were their wattage? Were they the same size street side/curb side? Down to what temperature do you think they would be effective? What brand and if possible model number would you purchase if you were going to install them at this time? Thank you, Geronimo John

I wonder how much heat is needed to keep the basement from freezing? Would a 500 watt heater running near continuously do so? If so, the new Ford F-150's can be ordered with 200 amp alternators. To run such a heater, we would need really large copper cables run for (Both Plus and Minus) from the truck to the trailer batteries, with relays and fuses appropriately sized. That would allow us to use the trailer 120V electrical system to power up a 120V 500 watt electrical heater, the furnace fan to circulate heat to the basement, and some power to charge the batteries. I am guessing that at least 1/0-ga wired would be needed for the approximately 60 foot run (30' each way). Not something that I would do with my rig, but would it work? Your thoughts?

According to the Oliver Winterization info, they do not recommend purging water lines in Ollie with air. I suspect it has to do not with over pressurization, but rather the high speed movement of sections of water through mostly air filled hoses.....and then hitting an elbow. Pop goes the elbow.

I saw this video and thought about my Ollie (9'7") height. As with several responding owners, I too use a 10' ALL STOP and stand on my truck tailgate to visually verify what the obstruction height really is. I've seen several old bridges with a ten foot clearance signs. Yet the road to and from it has had several overlays...... but the sign condition obviously says it had not been changed in many decades. So knowing your actual flat land height is a good start. But knowing your ALL STOP and check height may be more useful. My motto is: 10' Clearance = STOP & CHECK Geronimo John

The Definitive 11Foot 8 Bridge Crash Compilation

John and Cheryl: Welcome to the best source of info on the planet for Oliver Trailers! A follow-up to the drain lines and water system. Some of us owners simply don't use the high pressure water system as a supply to our trailers. Pressure surges from the city water main or well pump can be an issue. Instead, we fill our Oliver fresh water tank and use the pump to provide water for our needs. When filling the fresh water tank, you want to monitor the tank fill level. Flow water at a reasonably fast rate until reaching a level such as 75% full. Then significantly slow down the water flow rate until you reach something such as 90% full. Then slow it down further until you see water coming from the tank overflow tube located at the refrigerator area (To the rear of the entry steps). When you see overflow there, shut off the water from the city/well. This process minimizes the potential for water system problems. It would be good to know the following: How fast is the water leaking out of the trailer weeps? Have you tried to disconnect from the city/well pump and see if the leak stops. If you fill the fresh water tank, does the leak return? Does it return just sitting there or does it return when using the pump? Geronimo John

For those with the night stand hatch option benefit by opening the hatch under extreme cold weather? For those without the hatch, would removing the street side twin mattress aft end would have the same effect?

Overland: I REALLY like your pole selection. They are short for travel, are very light and quite strong. But at $40 each for two of the 8 ' model, the cost is quite high. I am wondering if other owners have a similar but more cost conscious approach that are also small, light and strong?

I note from the pictures that you are in several of the pictures, more than one trailer set-up is not using the side bars that clip back to the side of Ollie and are designed to reinforce the awning. Seems odd? Often we find ourselves in a rain situation. I like having a near dry entry and also sheltering of the windows as well. But don't like leaving the awning out while we are gone for many hours. Our solution is to extend the awning out about 1/3, and using 550 para-cord lines from the leading edge to dead weights below the ends of the awning. One of my dead weights is the Anderson hitch. The other is a milk crate loaded with "local" rocks. Advantage is no additional weight to haul around as we have always found local rocks and the hitch is always with us. I suspect we all have other items that meet that criterion. For example a 5 gallon collapsible water container that we use for boon-docking, or even an ice chest filled with water will work equally. I tie the lines in such a manner so as to easily be able to adjust them when we extend the awning as the need arises. I am comfortable leaving our awning extended out to only about a third or so even in strong winds. Doing so keeps our entry nearly dry, our chairs stay reasonably dry. I like the idea of using the poles to provide a secondary measure of down force resistances that our current setup does not address. Especially if they were collapsible so that we can easily store them in the basement. Painters Poles? Could you please share a link to them?

I also use the Honda EU2200i. Easily runs the A/C as above. In addition to the above power management issues (Hair Dryer, Microwave, etc.) you'll also need to be be aware of the load you charger can pull if your batteries are low on charge. This impacts us rarely, but is something you can manage around. The two loads are for the A /C load (lower one) and the internal heat strips for the heat that can be used in the A/C unit to heat Ollie. Personally, I prefer to use a small 1500 watt electric heater vs. the larger heat strips in the A/C unit. Unless you must have the 3000 for special medical or must run a/c all the time, the Honda EU2200 is the unit of choice for the vast majority of Ollie II owners.

Yea Scuba, I would agree. Possibly a heavy skillet pulled off the burner to cool. Could radiate enough heat back to the fiberglass just 3/16" below the rim of the cook top.