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And then, those of us with LCs will be there to tow home the pieces for you.

It's easy to see why an installer could make this mistake. The drawing should show either connection points or jumps. I'm sure you'll make this a lot cleaner. Seems to me you could replace three of those valves with one bypass and a check.

Also Sherry, I was originally clicking on the quote link button at the bottom of the message but no part of the original message appeared, just a blank box.

Bingo that's the secret. Thanks

In spite of how it's drawn in the Truma connection diagram, the return line should not be connected to the bypass circuit.

For some reason I can't quote mossemi's last comments but... As far as storage for the rear seats: I'm fortunate enough to have places for thing like that and don't like to irreversibly destroy equipment. At some point someone else may want them reinstalled.

If there’s room here for a third prospective, I’ll provide some long-read comments based on experiences towing my LEII with a 2018 LC200, not using the Andersen hitch. I also installed the Redarc controller using the Toyota specific bezel. This was my first Redarc and have since installed two more, one of which replaced a prior P3 installation. A great feature of the Elite model is being able to switch between proportional and time delay modes for off-road use. Can’t say enough about these controllers. Since “weight distribution” wasn’t being used, addressing rear-end sag using either the Timbren SES or airbags was considered: My attempt to install the Timbrens ran into an interference problem between the upper mounting bracket and coil spring on the driver side. Timbren support had no explanation or solution so I returned the kit. I also didn’t like that the rubber springs would be under constant compression by the axle housing, thus destroying the factory unloaded ride as mossemi has mentioned. What I also noticed is that the TLC 200 already incorporates similar (Timbren rubber spring) technology, as a combined overload spring/rebound bumper inside the rear coils. These however allow for 2-1/2 inches of free travel before they come into play. Installation of airbags would require cutting out the aforementioned factory overload provision, which are co-molded with the upper spring isolators. For this reason, the airbag option wasn’t considered further because it was counterintuitive to me and would have impacted the Toyota factory warranty. My LC200 was only six months old at this point. Sag management approach thus far: Judicious loading of the LC200 and LEII. The very first thing I did to my LC200 was remove the ridiculous third row seats. This provided a sizable gain in usable interior volume and removed sixty pounds or so of dead weight. Extra clothing hangs over the second seat and heaviest items are stowed most forward of the rear axle. Bottle jacks and tools go directly behind the front seats. A rear opening roof-top carrier has been particularly handy for lighter or bulky items. In the LEII, heavy necessities (like beer and ammo) are stowed aft but the tongue basket is usually kept empty. With regard to tires: I am still running the factory original Dunlop AT23s and have no complaints having towed my LEII 12K miles or so. I run pressures of 38/rear and 35/front with 80 psi in the LEII Michelins, always. Never once have I felt uncomfortable or even concerned be it light snow at Yellowstone or brutal crosswinds throughout central New Mexico. The only reason I’ll eventually switch, also to the Michelin LTX, is due to availability and better wear performance. If the LTX can get me up to the Medicine Wheel through 8” of fresh snow, and back, I’ll consider them equivalent to the AT23. General operation: Not being one who feels the need for speed, maximum cruise is typically 65-70, and I’m not afraid of offending anyone in the mountains. I basically concur with the advice provided by both JD and Mossey. Always Sport mode and ECT Power on, maintaining RPMs between 2 and 3K unless additional required for acceleration or engine braking. Never use 8th, rarely 7th, mostly 6th, occasionally 5th, and 4th – 2nd sometimes for extremes while descending or merging. But, RPM kept below 4500. I almost never use cruise control when towing and my coolant temperature fluctuations have never even been noticeable. Andersen hitch: As an early adopter of this system, experience left me a bit soured when it came to decision time for the LEII. I’ve had every generation and am hopeful the ball jamming problem has been resolved. My main issue is still it’s limited weight transfer ability. The additional aggravation just isn’t offset by its capabilities. That said, I may still try it on my LEII just to see what affect it has with my particular setup. I’m kind of in Jairon’s camp when it comes to pickups. Truck are for hay and horse trailers, and we use them for such. Extra space is nice to have, but our traveling enjoyment with the LEII requires a more “proper” tow vehicle. For this purpose, the LC200 has been near perfect. How’s that for snobbery?

Yes Oliver's have the remote switch option as well. I was thinking more generally.

Yes, don't they all.

Okay then. In that case my answer is: Same place I plug in the hair dryer I don't use.

Check your machine to see if it doesn't actually run off of 12V DC through a power supply brick. I just looked at one that requires about 6.5 amps at 12V. If so, a DC cord should be available.

The inverter outlet being discussed here is the main AC output of the inverter that feeds the remaining trailer outlets through a transfer switch. This switch is activated when it senses that the inverter is outputting AC i.e. powered on. Yes. I also carry a small 350 watt pure sine wave inverter for other deices that don't have a DC cord. It's just not as convenient to use. On my 2018, 12V outlets are: One below aft dinette seat near PDC and LP/CO detector. One each overhead, above the forward end of the bunks. One each on either side of the nightstand beside the AC outlets. There is another one that is integral to the optional omni antenna power supply. Noter that this one is only rated for 7.5-8 amps (In spite of the 20 amp fuse Oliver installed in mine)

The outlet omissions are most likely a stopgap until the AC layout can be redesigned. As it was, in pre 2020 model years, the outlet devices used could too easily be overloaded, creating a potential fire hazard. The obvious quick-fix was to reduce the number of outlets by 50%. Since the outlet on the inverter is only powered while on battery, seems to me it's not that usable. Do the Freedom XC inverter/charger used in later models even have an outlet or are they hard-wired? For laptops, I always carry an auto charging cord. There are plenty of 12V outlets throughout, unless this has also changed.

Likely not the last you've seen of this. Don't be surprised if you also run into trouble draining the tank at some point. Keep a compressed air supply handy.

The nomenclature label should be on the side of the case and visible from inside the trailer. Model # should start with AFSD......

No problem height wise. They will keep the tanks centered fore and aft in the tray however, so there is no adjustment for error. In my case, I had to relocate the tray assembly forward because the tanks were rubbing against the edge of the fiberglass enclosure. This wouldn't have been a problem with 20# tanks.

This might help you: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/travel-trailers/legacy-elite-2/photo-gallery/#&gid=1&pid=61

Traditional WD hitches won't adapt to the Olivers due mainly to its composite tongue design, layout, dimensions, and geometry. This "Y frame" setup leaves the Andersen No-Sway as the only viable solution, limited WD capabilities aside. I have looked into incorporating a pole tongue adapter but integration complexities were unacceptable and the additional weight counterproductive. Having "experience" with the Andersen since it was first introduced, I elected to forego one on my LEII even though it means being on the edge with certain tow vehicles. Sway is a rarity with the LEII and bounce happens, both are easily manageable. These are two conditions where the No_Sway is supposed to excel, but I find most of Andersen's other claims overstated or questionable.

In the attic, there should be a small black pushbutton switch on the wall plate that has a 12V outlet and cable connection. Also a green led when it is on.

I've been following them for a while, in particular the DL170 now . The cold operating specs leaves me cold and surprised given their Dakota location. Maybe suitable for summer trolling but not winter ice fishing. For my needs, the 200 AH Lifeblue Oliver is offering seem like the best bet, assuming it's the low temp version.

Okay, I decided to start from scratch. What I have is a six page Word document with pictures. Anyone care to provide assistance with getting the contents into a reply?

If the kit is installed, the yellow flue plug and metal storage bracket should be on the access door like this.

Okay I'm working on a detailed writeup with pictures for my trailer's documentation package. I'll post this writeup, in it's entirety, on this topic. But be forewarned, I made my project way more involved than what others might deem necessary. That's just how I operate.

I added a PWM controller to slow the fan down and added a 3" vent through the vanity into the closet. 100 cfm seems way more than necessary for such a small area. I figure the combination of the additional vent and what can be drawn through the heat duct, with register dampers removed, is about 60 CFM. This is is still plenty and enough to prevent the fan from drawing black tank gases past the toilet seal. A side benefit of this setup is that the closet now has flow-through ventilation as well. My Ventline was still pretty new when I did this and the motor brushes had not yet seated. Initially at lower speeds the motor made a really annoying high pitched rotational chirping sound. This has subsided after a hundred or so hours and the fan is now nearly silent in the lower quarter of the rpm range. I also looked into the Maxxair but figured the additional cfm was unnecessary and undesirable. It also looks to have a plastic housing but not sure about this.