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Just stirring the pot. I usually open mine for air whenever draining. Truma does call it a "Test Lever"

So manually opening the valve only tests whether it will re-close, not if it will release automatically under high pressure.🤨

In ECO mode the circulation pump, and burner, won't come on unless the internal temperature is below 41degrees. In Comfort mode the threshold is 102 so what you experienced could be normal operation under the circumstances.

I think the dimensions in the Measurement Index are for the earlier version basket. Look in the University for the 2018 LEII Owners Manual. Page 122 is a dimension drawing of the newer style.

Thanks or the bailout Bill. I was fat-fingering the post on my phone and couldn't elaborate. David, in an earlier post you mentioned removing the top panel so I just assumed you'd be familiar with what is involved. Let me know if you'd like more details. There's not a lot going on with that board beyond the switches that are prone to failure.

Pull fuse #1 (20amp) in pdc. Remove the circuit board from the upper panel and blow off the dust with compressed air. Spray the switches liberally with electrical contact cleaner while working the power switch on/off. Let dry for a few minutes and try it.

Good point. A bad fan was my initial thought. The set point on thermostatic switch must be pretty high though. I only notice it coming on if the batteries are down a bit after a long run, and when the temperature inside the trailer hasn't yet cooled down. The odor can occur whether the fan comes on or not.

Pretty sure it's coming from the converter section of the Progressive PDC. Mine does this occasionally under high load like with stereo, fan, lots of lights etc. It's pretty faint and goes away when load is reduced or the batteries catch up.

Hummm...The pictures on the OTT website show the batteries provided with the package. Type, size, and leftover space are evident and battery disconnect means is also shown.

yesterdays technology. Then, the latest will be twice as much as Lithium, is today.

On my 2018 with fiber-granite overlay: average is 5/8" + or - 1/16" front to rear

That's it. The bolt may be installed the other way however, with the nut out, making it easier to inspect.

No this is an unrelated issue.

Yes. Oliver provides the RVLock brand. It motorizes the deadbolt section but the handle is still free to move the latch bolt. Fool me once....

Typical Dexter non-responsive response. These folks might get their attention if multiple complaints are registered. https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/

I had two instances in the first few months where the door was locked with the fob only to later discover it hadn't locked at all. Each time I tested to be sure and while it made to correct lock tone, the dead bolt didn't engage. I suspect this may occur when the batteries get low. Now, I don't trust the thing and always use the key. Will be replacing with the Global Link Security as soon as the keypad goes.

Black. Double check though. The black should go to the switch and then from the switch to motor terminal with red dot.

Dometic is the plague.

🤙 Let us know how you make out.

I believe the wire and fuse lead are both 18. You can use a wire stripper as a gauge and see which size best fits without nicking. If you're going with the butt, just one crimp per side. Best to use a dimple style crimper with uninsulated terminals.

Before you spend a lot of time searching for these, fact check me with a magnet. See if the crimps on your old fuse are attracted to it. If not, there's a chance they may be "brazed barrel" copper crimps. These will be much easier to find.

High temp terminals are nickel plated steel and don't loosen with repeated temperature fluctuations like standard copper will. You'll find these in any UL household appliance where crimp terminals are used. They require a lot more force to crimp but result in a more positive connection where soldering isn't feasible. Big advantage of parallel over butt is they make for a shorter splice and work better in tight spaces. You can see this in Yukon's pictures. The white closed end crimps are internal fan wiring done by the fan mfg, not Oliver. Not being directly subject to heat from the motor, they are probably standard copper barrel terminals. Since the fuse is a thermal protection device, as opposed to current protection, it must be in direct contact with the fan motor.

The switches have a history. Also easy enough to check.

Can't recommend that. However remote, a malfunction could cause the motor to overheat and start melting the wiring. The fuse could be replaced but you'd have to find the appropriate one and use high-temp parallel crimps. Not worth the effort or cost.