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bhncb

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Everything posted by bhncb

  1. You can also stick your tongue on a lead instead of using a test light.😄 But, you really should carry a test light in your minimum tools kit.
  2. Another point about this fan and the mounting position necessary: Because of the shell contour, the drain hole in the frame has to be pointed toward the front on the down-slope. Unfortunately, this means air, rain water, and bugs (JD) will be driven inside the housing while driving. The negative consequences are to be expected. I'm noodling a shark fin deflector to stick on the fiberglass just below the hole but haven't come up with one yet.
  3. The wind turbulence from the fan blade blew mine loose. The seal is adhered to the lid with double-sealstick cellophane tape. In the heat of the sun it doesn't take long.
  4. There won't be anything obvious to the eye. You'll need to test it with an ohmmeter or continuity tester of some kind. A 9v battery and test light will work. The motor can be tested with the battery as well.
  5. On earlier versions of this fan there is a thermal fuse taped to the side of the fan motor. If the motor became jammed, this fuse should melt before permanent damage to the motor occurred. On the latest versions, this fuse has been replaced by a fusible wire for the positive pigtail. Either way, neither scheme is serviceable with readily available parts so the entire motor is replaced. Available replacements come with the newer style overload protection and directions that address either style. With an earlier version, you'll need to access the splice connection at the trailer wiring so the original motor pigtail can be removed and replaced. This means the entire assembly has to be lifted out of the hole. At least with an old versions one could MacGyver a replacement thermal fuse. Also, be aware that the plastic fan blade is pressed on the splined motor shaft. Getting it off requires substantial hand force. Best to plan on a replacement blade in case it gets damaged in the process.
  6. Just two screws. They'll be obvious when you get on the ladder. Pretty simple job except finding replacement gasket material was a challenge. In an emergency I ended up with something close dimensionally but stiffer. Since the cover could then not be pulled down as far, wind force while traveling tended to open it. Had to improvise a kludge fix.
  7. My primary reason for the solar option was to replenish draw-down while traveling. So far, traveling 6 hours a day during mostly winter daylight hours, it has served it's purpose. Even on cloudy days I've found there will be some solar charge current produced. The vehicle charge line may assist to some degree but the only reason Oliver provides this connection at all is because the main batteries are used as the breakaway power source for the brakes. Applicable standards require this TV charge capability.
  8. First time someone hits them with an impact wrench, they'll likely crack. One of the first things to go. High quality chrome replacements by McGard or Gorilla Automotive.
  9. I read Oliver's response as simply concurrence with Lifeblue's recommendation and wouldn't have expected much else. Whatever modifications are necessary for your TV and trailer wiring are your responsibility. IMO if you're customizing to this extent, best to lean more on the advice of battery and component mfgs, and those with first hand knowledge/experience.
  10. Oliver has been known to cut a hole and install a deck plate when repair access for the fresh tank overflow is required. There is a lot of dead space under the cabinets that's ripe for cleaver picking. Just be mindful of the access panel heights so they don't interfere with the draw bottoms.
  11. The 4" galley run from the furnace reduces down to 3" at a tee behind the galley outlet. 3" flex then runs straight forward and makes a 90 degree turn around the front of the tanks, angling to the front under the shower pan. This flex then turns up inside the vanity, where there is a high-loop taped up to the shell forward of the sink before dropping down into another right angle and attaching to the outlet. That's how it was done in my 2018 anyway. Closing off the galley outlet completely, along with removing the dampers in the vanity outlet, is the simplest effective approach for increasing flow to the bath. Adding a return vent also helps by relieving back pressure.
  12. Ditto. Raise the coupler off the ball and just leave it there. Also: Easier to keep the bathroom and closet doors ajar. Plugin for electric throws is at the foot end.
  13. Consider tailgate interference with the hitch if the rack has to be used in the rise position. Not knowing exactly what the distance is from the top of your receiver opening to the ground, I'm guessing you're going to need a drop or rise near mid-range. I.e. You may need to use either the highest drop (0"), or lowest rise (+1"), rack position to achieve an optimum ball height.
  14. One of these and no. https://www.bwtrailerhitches.com/product/tow-stow-adjustable-ball-mount I should add that, based on your connection height, you'll only need the Small Adjustment model.
  15. Painting a witness mark on the end of the bolt is a really good idea. There are also vinyl nut caps with pointers for this purpose but these may be too big. Update: Here are some pretty cool adjustable indicators. The #30601 will work. https://www.kentool.com/product/30601-30602-30603-30604-hexchex/ Think I'll order a selection to have around for....
  16. Are we sure some of these solutions will fit under the RV toilet?
  17. I'm not so sure I'd go along with the anti-seize on the center bolt shank. The means of keeping the pivot bushing stationary is imo the Achilles Heal of the EZ-Flex. The more that can be done prevent this bushing from rotating the better. Given that the weight of the trailer is exerting vertical lateral pressure between the bolt and inside of the bushing, this additional force creates further resistance beyond just the longitudinal pressure on the ends by the hanger pinch. Seems to me lubricating this area with anti-seize is opposite that goal. On the other hand, anti-seize will prevent corrosion between the bolt and bushing making removal easier when service is required. The installation instructions specify this so probably best to use some. Understand that there is pretty significant resistance to the bronze bushings being able to rotate on the outside (lubricated) of the steel bushing because of forces from the compressed rubber shock puck, which are transferred to the arm ends, resulting in opposing lateral forces against the outside of the steel bushing. This resistance has to be overcome in order for the arms to rotate. If the resistance too rotation on the dry part of pivot bushing is less than on the lubricated side, guess where rotation will occur. Your thoughts about a longer bolt and different retention are good ones. I was going to mention possibly using medium thread locker and a pair of thinner jamb nuts. Those style bolts only come in application specific lengths so you may have trouble getting the same shank length with a longer treaded portion. This may limit your alternative methods. Sure hope I haven't made this unnecessarily complicated.
  18. I would also add: Be mindful of the screw lengths used to install the repair ring. Before drilling any holes, I'd remove one or two of the existing screws and test the depth available with a straight length of coat hanger wire or similar.
  19. This is the best solution by far. A replacement ABS flange will most likely just break again at some point.
  20. Here's a picture of the bolts I removed from 2018. I have to assume they are the original bolts Dexter provided with the kit that OLIVER installed when the chassis was built. Pinching the hanger against the equalizer bushing is precisely what you want. This longitudinal pressure on the ends of the steel center bushing, along with lateral pressure from the bolt shoulder shank resulting from the weight of the trailer, is the only thing that keeps this bushing from rotating. There is a paragraph 13 on page 3 in the attached Dexter installation instructions about the procedure. 059-867-00_ez_flex_complete.pdf
  21. Everyone who has the EZ-Flex equalizer needs to read the following explanation I put together for this condition. I know from experience that there is a disconnect somewhere as to how this bolt should be torqued. If the EZ-Flex center bolt is not properly torqued to the 65-75 ft lb specification, the steel center bushing that is supposed to provide the lubricated pivot point for the two individual arms, will not be held stationary allowing it to rotate directly on the un-lubricated center bolt. The center bolt now becomes the pivot point for the entire equalizer assembly as a single unit. This un-lubricated bearing contact will tend to rotate the center bolt, which will in turn eventually loosen the prevailing torque locking nut. Hopefully the frame hanger will not have been destroyed by the rotating serrations of the center bolt. I would recommend removing the EZ-Flex and inspecting the hanger and steel bushing to see if either hole is out of round and/or enlarged. Then, if neither of these conditions exists, you may get by with just replacing the bolt and nut. Worst case could be replacement of the complete EZ-Flex and/or frame hanger repair or replacement. I don’t think Dexter will supply just the steel bushing as an individual part because replacement requires specialized shop equipment and tools. That would be the desirable alternative to replacing the whole equalizer though. GJ: Please keep us updated.
  22. Seriously though, how do the sticker payloads for the Rebel and Raptor compare to the LC200?
  23. I have an aluminum flat bed that'll handle one of em, at a time.
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