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There are a couple of things to consider beyond the relatively limited reception of the Roadstar omni antenna. First, there is no AM support with this optional antenna so you'll have zero reception in this band. Maybe not a big deal for most but it is still a viable band for longer range reception and a supported mode of the entertainment system that won't work. Second, the Winegard Roadstar antenna is being, or has been, phased out and replaced by the Air 360 product line with improved performance. At some point Oliver will have to offer an alternative. I have one but wouldn't given a do-over. Much better solutions have been suggested. When needed, I use the flat Winegards RAZAR Amplified in a window. For AM/FM, an amplified Jensen Marine windshield antenna is taped to the outer shell in the attic, above insulation. Both solutions work better than the "old" Roadstar mounted on the roof.

Most want to go with the maximum AH that will fit in the tray. For the LEII this would typically be 4 GC2 12v 100AH or 2-3 higher 150-200 AH 12V in some form. Putting in 4 6v lithium batteries doesn't make much sense unless you just have some laying around.

I wouldn't sacrifice the fold up storage for the additional screen size of a 32. It will probably ride okay in the down position but seems to me, with the additional width, it will always be in the way. The 28" Transit hangs over the sides of the nightstand about 2 inches which isn't such a big deal. Before committing, I'd check the dimensions of the 32 Jensen carefully with a cardboard template to see if you can live with the size. As far as the sound bar: I thought about maybe adding a small external one but we always run the TV sound through the DV3300 speakers using ARC mode, which is satisfactory for now. I did however replace the speakers with 6.5" Pioneers which are much cleaner than the 5" Jensens. The Transit operate like I expect a TV to operate. The Furrion was immediate frustration from the first time I powered it on. Slow remote command response and some inopportune screen menu timeouts were my main issues with it, aside from the postage stamp screen size. The Transit is a bit more expensive and you loose the second/redundant DVD player but I have no regrets.

I tow my LEII on occasion with a 2013 SWB 3500 that has the suspension seat option. While generally great, there are times when towing that I have to lock out the suspension function because it can get annoying on undulating road surfaces. Seasick comes to mind. I looked into the VB air suspension but this would eliminated my ability to carry the spare tire and reduce the tow capacity to 5000#. Both of these negatives were show-stoppers for me. With 600 or so pounds on the hitch ball, the 3500 ride is much improved making the high cost of the VB upgrade hard to justify. The older 5-speed transmission models definitely needs more gears and I've though about trading just for this reason. Towing in the mountains is a slow go to keep within the power band. I also tried the ScanGauge method but eventually found it to be a distraction, relying on the tachometer and my senses instead. I like how the vans tows and love the extra room inside where it's protected. Fuel mileage for mine averages 20 mpg not towing and 16+- with the 6000# trailer. The height of a 2 WD high roof is the same as the LEII. Loaded weights and lengths are really close. Not sure all this has anything to do with the stability but cross-wind from passing truck and busses is virtually unnoticeable. All in all, compared to my Land Cruiser, the Sprinter is not as comfortable on the long hauls, or as versatile when we plan to go exploring, but it certainly is capable.

Btw I just replaced mine for the same reason. The original (2018) window was installed with double stick foam tape and the gap/joint around was sealed with silicone. I heard they had switched to the butyl sealant instead of the foam tape but assumed silicone was then applied to finish the job.

I agree with Andrew. Bet they didn't use silicone at all. Try a little mineral spirits on a rag and see if if softens and wipes off. If so, dig as much out as you can with plastic blade or orange stick, wipe it clean with the spirits, and silicone the groove after it drys good.

I found these power strips in the electrical department at a local Walmart. Not exactly sure where in the county I was but had to be either SD KY or VA. These are rated for 13 amps so they'll handle any appliance up to 1500 watts. But since the trailer circuit is only 15 amps, you really need to plan appliance usage when cooking. The strip in the galley is attached with 3M VHB tape because I didn't plan on ever having to remove it. The other I put up with 3M Dual Lock strips so it can be removed if desired. Also, the additional height provided by the closet door outlet strip does make using a hair dryer with 6' cord possible inside the bath. I have replaced the original mirror with a larger one however. For the same reason I stated before, Oliver probably does not drill the hole for the cord pass-thru unless the microwave is being installed. In mine, it is just a rough drilled hole concealed by the mat in the overhead. It shouldn't be too difficult to do something a bit more finished looking. Someone mentioned that their 2020 did not have outlets on the night stand or down low on the sides under the bunk extensions. If these have in fact been deleted from later models, assuming it's a twin, I would make it clear to Oliver that the sale is dependent on them being added. I really find this unbelievable since we use these outlets continually more than any of the others.

Here's the situation with the galley outlet and how I resolved a cord length issue. This was the only inconvenience we encountered. The TV is 12V so no plugin necessary. That outlet in the attic is intended to serve a satellite box if needed. For us the hair dryer goes in the outlet below the closet door. I also have a short extension on this one, which raises it about 12 inches. We sometimes plug a small personal heater in and this gets it up above the floor the recommended minimum distance. I doubt Oliver will be receptive to moving an outlet inside the storage cabinet. There is too much potential for heat damage or worse.

In addition, there is an outlet in the hanging closet, in the overhead cabinet above refrigerator, and one on each side of the rear nightstand.

Same exact situation with alarm in late 2018 LEII, usually around 2 AM, and even if no propane tanks are near the trailer. Since the CO detector function is redundant, I'm looking for another LP-only solution. Sometimes it's not worth the aggravation of trying to get a warranty replacement of a part that will likely just fail again.

I've just replaced my 2018 original Furrion with a 28" 12 volt, Free Signal, Transit. Functionality is a big improvement but installation did require a complete recabling of the entertainment system due to cable port function and location differences. It fits fine with respect to the window shade and cable through-grommet, but it is about two inches thicker and extends forward of the overhead about an inch. I looked at moving the mount 1-1/2" to the rear but this would be quite involved due to the size of the aluminum backing plate that's epoxied to the fiberglass attic floor. I elected to just add some small vinyl bumpers to the attic door hinge buttons in order to limit the door travel and prevent an open latch from contacting the screen. The last picture is looking up from the vanity top. Look closely and you can see how much clearance there is between the TV and window shade. I do plan to lower the TV on the mount slide the last available inch, visible in picture three. This will reduce the rear clearance when raised but there's still enough space.

I found that the addition of the Teakworks insert makes for a more comfortable toilet height. The reduced head room is only an issue for me (5'10+) when showering. For this usage, the insert gets set outside the door and used as a mat. When the insert is in the shower pan, I first put a flat drain stopper over the drain to keep out grit that falls through the insert. This way I don't notice or walk on a dirty white gelcoat between showers.

A wire tracing tool can be invaluable for isolating problems like this. This exact one is available with different branding from other sources like HD and Lowes. https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-ET64220-Installers-Must-Have/dp/B00279JLBQ?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_4 Clip the positive and negative leads to the speaker connections in the plug from the back of the radio and the speaker should reproduce the tone generated by the transmitter. With careful adjustment of the receiver, you should be able to isolate a faulty connection point. But, since there are only two crimp terminal points (quick connects at the speaker and butts in the harness behind the radio), just give them a yank. Also, before you remove the radio head, pull the fuse for USB/12V outlets above the bunk. If these connections should come loose in the process of pulling the radio, they may short out . In any event, check these terminal crimps while you have access.

You should be able to pop the plastic bezel off without much effort using your finger. Just pull on the indentation, one side or the other.

Before you send it back: The Truma has to detect approximately .4 gpm flow in order to turn on. Operation might be iffy with a .35 gpm aerator.

What I was trying to say is position 12 in the main lower panel got mislabeled. Whoever did this was supposed to add the 'Cabin/Cabinet Lights' designation to previously unused position 12 in the upper aux panel. Typically, optional equipment that is not ordered/installed still have the circuit reserved, and are often pre-wired, but no fuse installed. This simplifies manufacturing and provides flexibility for last minute additions or future upgrades. The panel labeling in my LEII was fairly accurate and complete, as far as it went. (Not unlike the ones in every house I've owned) Perhaps the missing wiring diagrams is simply a case of documentation lagging production. Shouldn't happen but... Manufacturers don't adjust to change readily.

Fuse position 12 in the main panel under the dinette is supposed to be for the optional "auto-drain" dump valve. (aka shower back flow preventer) Check in the auxiliary fuse panel Overland mentioned. In prior model years, all lights were fed by a 15 amp (blue) in position 11. I suspicion Oliver may have split this into two circuits and "position 12" in this panel may feed the lights in question. If there is no fuse in position 12, either put one in or short it briefly to see if the non-functioning lights respond. As far as the mysterious switch: Did Oliver by chance finally add the missing cabinet light inside the pantry? If so, perhaps it is on the same circuit as the other non-functioning lights? For some reason the 2020 owners manual does not include wiring diagrams. Come on Oliver. What's up with this.

My thoughts: For future reference, activating the breakaway switch will not turn on the brake lights. Also, it's good practice to routinely pull and re-insert the switch pin to verify operation. The first time you do this will give you an idea of the actual force required. In the seven-way plug, the right turn/stop and tail/marker light contacts are adjacent to the 12V aux. This explains the two anomalies you experienced. My solution for keeping water out,

The WBA validation program (QR code) was instituted for/by member bearing mfgs. There is not much to be gained by name-recognition counterfeiting comparatively low cost seals. Timken seals are actually National Seals in a Timken box with the National part number on it. Timken doesn't even bother assigning it's own part numbers. "Made in Taiwan" means nothing as far as authenticity. In the future, you might be able to save a little by just ordering Nationals. BTW: I learned a long time ago to not start stockpiling spare parts for something until the something was actually sitting in my driveway.

Follow the fuse holder wire down about a foot. There will be a yellow butt splice connection with the trailer wiring that goes forward to the switch. If the connection looks to still be together, give the wires a slight tug to check the crimps. Also, a cheap 12V test light would save you a lot of time and work trouble shooting.

Those look more like tool scratches than cracks. Contact the service department for a repair solution. Be sure to also point out the cracked flange on the vent cap where the screw was over tightened. The cap needs to be replaced as well.

While this is somewhat new, look on the back of the bearing box for the sticker with a QR code. You can get the "WBA Check" app, which will scan and verify these codes. This applies to other manufactures, not just Timken.

What exactly did you do here? It should only have been necessary to hook up the outside cable port connection , turn off the amplifier (green light), and change the TV signal source from air to cable. At least that's how it worked on my 2018.

The clips serve a purpose and missing ones should be replaced. I wouldn't count on Dexter being responsive because Oliver does not order the Dexter axles with springs. Your best bet would be to find another parts source. If it were me, given the age, I'd entirely replace all the springs. There are better quality ones readily available at reasonable prices.