Trainman

I will say it was around two months ago that the dealer told me the time line on orders for the Wranglers. I do get on the Wrangler Forum and the time line has come down some, but this mainly depends on which model Wrangler you want to order and certain options, some are still six months out. I want the Willys Sport (base model) model with only A/C option, It will have the 6 spd. manual trans and is still a well equipped vehicle, it will list for $35,000.00. Like I said in my previous post it will be a TOY and shifting is my thing in a Jeep, it my choice. trainman

I really don't see the trailer getting a redesign as far as the outside body change, or to a 4-wheel trailer, the cost would be too expensive to ever recover it over time. Probably the twin bed model would make the most sense, as this option in trailers is probably one of the most popular today. I don't know what the production numbers are on the 19' models, but I would assume that a complete change would not do much to sales. trainman

I've always wondered why travel trailers don't have an A/C/Heat unit like the ductless system we have in or patio room at our home. The unit is very compact and the outside compressor and inside unit are very quiet and are small enough to be configured for travel trailer use. Just don't see why this type of system is not gives come consideration for RV's. trainman

I guess I just don't see the need to stabilize the trailer more then you can do it with the onboard system as built. I know some are very sensitive to motion, so I guess they need to have there trailer feel like walking on concrete floors where they don't feel any motion under there feet. If I feel the motion is a little too much, I just hive the rear jacks a little bump and all is ok. trainman

We all have had some mishaps along the way, biggest one I did was failure to turn the hot water heater off from the electric and when I got home I plugged the trailer in as we always do and a week later I noticed my hot water heater outside was warn, yes we still had hot water a week later. trainman

One option which is not offered anymore is the option with twin beds and the storage bins that were located under the beds, which raised the beds up some 12" or so. This would put the top of the bed at window level, or somewhere close to it, plus not sure how easy it would be to clime into bed and get out of in the middle of the night. Not sure if I would have gotten this option, but you did get a lot more storage room for those who need it. My biggest question is how would you access the mechanicals and reaching the fresh water tank drain would be a reach. trainman

I can get three milk crates in my basement, 2 that are the 14"x19" long ones and 1 of the standard size ones, maybe 14"x14" ones, I would have to measure then to see. I also took a wood dowel and put a hook in the end to grab the crate that is pushed way to the back as you will not be able to reach in an grab it very easily. I will say here I have just gone to using the two larger crates as have the free space in the front works better for me and I find I do get more room for the quick needed things at the front. trainman

Being a modeler and using every type of glues out there and pretty much know what works and what doesn't I would have my own ideas on what to use. First I might try 3M double sticky tape as the glue is still stuck on the fiberglass panel which is not that smooth, but the glue surface does look smooth and the other part has a smooth surface. All being said, the 3M tape will hold more then you think it will and for a long time. A lot of glues that were mentioned above are being misused for that type of application for the materials involved. trainman

We would find the interior basement door pretty useless as anything put in there is going to require getting down on your hands and knees to get out what ever you need. We have three milk crates that we slide in and out from the outside access and this works well for us. I did take a round dowel and put a hook on it to grab the milk crates that are pushed way back up in the garage, works very well. trainman

Here is a pic at Ft. Davis S.P., the pics doesn't show how steep it really was, as you can see it was a back in spot which would have put the tongue of the trailer some 4-5 foot in the air. Well like you said, many campsites are level and nice, I was just late in getting a good one. trainman

I would look at the campsites specs and pictures on the campsite info where you want to camp. I like a minim of 50 feet and one of the biggest things I look at is how level the camping site looks. Now not always are this pics available online, but since we stay in a lot of state parks there site info is usually pretty good. On thing for the 50 foot length is I like to keep the trailer and truck inline at the campsite, but this is not a must when camping. I had the worse campsite at Ft. Davis State Park back when we had a Casita, it was too short and on an incline that took every block we and our fellow campers had just to get it level, what a mess and there were no other spots available. trainman

Most trucks sold today with trailering option will have the hitch (2"), trailer brake module, and will all be adjustable on the dash of truck from the factory with this option. Our new Ram only requirement is to push the trailering option switch on the dash and the computer does the rest, if not mistaken I did have to set the trailer brakes one time on the first pull and I think Oliver did that upon delivery. Note this option from the factory will reset the transmission and engine speeds for trailer pulling, it does all the work for you, no manual shifting required. trainman

Adjusting the awing is just part of the problem when it comes to good and safe awing use. I would recommend using some type of poles on the ends to brace the awing from winds and if it rains from water ponding on the awing. Very little wind does whip the awing quite a bit and it needs to be stabilized from this happing. I use the Green Elephant ones sold on Amazon, they are actual poles that slide in and out and store easily in the trailer, some use the painters poles, but they take-up more room and don't slide together as short as the Green Elephant ones do. Also tie down straps are recommended for good stabilization of the awing. Note, you will have to drill a hole in the under side of the awing housing at each end to put the tent pole post in to affix the Green Elephant post, I did also put in a rubber grommet for a good fit. https://www.amazon.com/Green-Elephant-Telescoping-Tarp-Poles/dp/B072K1B91Q/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3DKR0M4KHD2UV&keywords=green+elephant+telescoping+tarp+poles&qid=1645367226&sprefix=green+elephant%2Caps%2C150&sr=8-5 trainman

I use a wood block under the tongue jack, it is some 40 years old, I guess I just don't want to part with it over the years of use. I use the red leveling pads on the rear jacks, sometimes 1, some times 5-6, just depends how long I want to hold the stabilizer switch down. I guess what you use depends on how much room you have to carry this stuff around, since we use a full size crew cab pickup room is not really a problem. Personally I like the wood over plastic, I do think the wood has a better bite for slipping over plastic, just from my experiences. I get all me leveling stuff in one large milk create (leveling blocks jacking blocks, and stabilizer pads) and carry it in the bed on the truck, so far no one has stolen any of the stuff in some 40 years of camping. trainman

Our camping friends who tow there Oliver Elite II with there Tacoma tell us when towing the vehicle does have a few down falls, the main one I see is lack of power at highway speeds. One they do loose power on hills that will drop there speed say from there towing speed at round 62-63 mph do down around 53-54 mph on long interstate hills. Two they can only tow at around 62-63 mph on interstates as there vehicle labors too much that when we tow together it is very obvious that there speed is does go up and down, thus we have to make adjustment to wait on them. I tow at around 65-66 mph with the Ram and for me I wouldn't care for the big speed change all the time. All being said, what works for you is what you deal with. trainman

Looking at a pic of a new trailer should be all you need, just use the garage door as a reference and see where the decal is located in relation to the door. I bet you can get within an inch either way, that is if you have an eye for that type of stuff. Then take the measurements of the decal on this side and mark if off on the other side, be sure to place the decal level with the trailers center line, crocked will look bad and it will appear you trailer is not level. trainman

Even if the Land Cruiser is a nice vehicle and reasonable mileage I would question starting out with a 20 year old vehicle to use it for traveling and pulling a trailer. It would be a good second vehicle and used for that reason locally, have a breakdown on the road and the cost could become high dollar. I realize a Toyota is a top rated vehicle, but 20 years old could open up a bag of worms. trainman

Just kidding about the campfire coffee, our trailer has a small one cup Keurig. trainman

My design is 22" round, fits the location very well. trainman

First let me say here, I like dogs and cats, but do I want one, NO. For us we are too independent and just don't want to have to deal with them at home, or camping. When camping if your dog if friendly to use we pet them and comment to there owner how nice there animal is, but when we walk away I tell my wife what a nice animal, but do I want one, NO. I will say here we live in the country and have a lake on our property and we have all the wild animals we want, we feed them and enjoy watching them, it pretty much takes care of or animal needs. trainman

We have a tankless water heater at home, but for our trailer we opted not the get the Truma, main reason we very seldom use the shower in the trailer and use the campgrounds facilities. We have not had a situation come up that we needed more hot water then what the standard water heater could supply for our needs. trainman

I find TV searching for channels can be a hit and miss thing, probably more miss then hit. I have found that you can usually get more channels if you program in the morning hours them in the evening hours. I have my ideas on this, but won't go into it here because there are so many factors that can effect reception. We use the Omni non direction portable antenna which works much better then the Oliver equipped antenna which is questionable at times. How do I know this, our Oliver friends have the factory antenna and it was pretty much junk (per them) and went with an Omni portable like we have and saw a big different in reception. Remember as lot has to do with, location, location, location. trainman

Since Oliver trailers are on the upper value of many other trailers and there buyers are probably going to buy a trailer that is in very good working condition and reedy to go. I would sell mine with probably 60/70% tread still on the tires, this does two things, gives the appearance of less use of the trailer and the owner keeps the trailer in very good condition. I realize the question was, would you buy a trailers that needed new tires, my though is if the tires are worn out, what else does it need. trainman

I've been watching "1883" on TV and they just use the old fashion way, coffee pot on the open fire, don't all campers do it that way. trainman

Being a retired Body Shop Mgr. for some 30 years for a large DFW Chevrolet Dealer I have pretty much seen it all over time. We always tried to help the customer as much as we could, stranded people away home is very uncomfortable displaced feeling. So insurance companies do help there insured better them others, if it's liability claim you best do what you have to do and get your money back latter in the settlement. trainman