Frank C

Yeah, I would expect that Summit would be legitimate as a Timken source since Summit is a big reputable auto parts distributor. Maybe just a fluke with the WBA database not being updated recently with the latest Timken data.

I bought my Timken bearings through an authorized Timken distributor listed on the Timken website. And when I received them I confirmed with the WBA bearing app and they come up as good. As an experiment though I did buy a “Timken” bearing on Amazon (at a ridiculously low price of like $12) just to see what counterfeit bearings are like. A lot of fakes out there. The Amazon ones did show as counterfeit (no surprise for $12 😂) when scanned with the WBA app. Here’s a pic. Counterfeit on the left, legitimate on the right. The fakes are a pretty good looking copy, with most of the packaging details copied, but the counterfeit ones seem to always be missing the QR code on the box. Here’s the authorized Timken distributor I bought the genuine bearings from. www.applied.com

For anyone getting replacement lug nuts, make sure you get the proper type for aluminum wheels. The correct ones are the “bulge acorn” type which have a larger conical seating surface for use on aluminum wheels. Aluminum wheels are softer than steel wheels and require the larger seating surface. The ones installed by Oliver are the correct bulge acorn type so get the same style. “Acorn” type have a smaller conical face and are for steel wheels.

I think he’s referring to this post on the Oliver Facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/groups/OllieOwners/permalink/1200624053676047/

6 per wheel.

Even if the fridge is running/cold at delivery make sure it operates in all modes: AC shore power, DC battery power, and propane (if you get the 3 way fridge). A few owners have had issues with the fridge AC plug not plugged into the AC power outlet receptacle.

Not all quick connect faucet fittings use a clip. Some are just “Push to click” connections. It’s possible your hose fitting just wasn’t installed properly when the trailer was built. If you’ve pushed the connector back on until you heard or felt a click, it may be ok now. But keep an eye on it.

Not sure what Ford calls the option package that I have on my F-250, but it’s rated at 3,334 lbs payload. Highest I’ve ever seen on an F-250. Grabbed it right away when I saw it on the dealer lot. I think it was intended to be a snow plow/salt spreader type work truck.

I used the 8020 extrusions and brackets (purchased from McMaster Carr) for my home built bike rack on my truck bed cover. The cross rail for the rear tires has quick release mounts so that rail can be quickly removed to flip the bed cover open when needed. 8020 is great stuff for hardware projects. Next tweak to the system is to add a couple mounts to carry our portable waste tote tank in between the two bikes.

The answer really depends on what type of camping you intend to do. If you are going to stay at full hookup campsites, then spending that much money for the lithium batteries / solar panel package doesn’t make much sense. If you are going to be camping off-grid/boondocking, then the lithium/solar package is a must have. We typically stay at full hookup campgrounds, and we don’t have the solar package (and we intentionally look for campground sites that are shaded), and our Oliver just has the old fashioned (cheap) lead acid wet cell batteries, and that setup has worked perfectly for us. I do have a small portable solar panel and charge controller setup (<$900) that I use for the occasional quick off-grid stop (usually a Harvest Host location) on our way to our destination campgrounds. I have much better things to spend $9,500 on.

I think you’re right that the levelers are photoshopped into the pic. Looking more closely, you can see that the wheels have a slightly different perspective for the forward vs rearward wheel, but the images of the levelers are identical. Makes me trust that company less if they couldn’t even bother to take an actual picture of the levelers in use on the Oliver.

So whose Oliver is in this photo on Amazon for these levelers?

We don’t have the lithium batteries. We have the old fashioned lead acid wet cell batteries (and no solar). During winter storage I plug the trailer into our household AC about once every two weeks or so to keep the batteries charged. For our method of getting the cover on, I lay the cover out on the ground on the curbside of the trailer, and I tie a rope through one of the grommets around the bottom of the cover, then toss the rope over the top of the trailer to the street side, and then with one person pulling on the rope on the street side, and one person on a ladder on the curbside, it’s just a matter of getting the cover up over the awning housing and up onto the roof of the trailer. Once the cover is up on the roof it’s easy to work it down around the sides of the trailer.

Yes, we use the Calmark cover that’s made for the Oliver. Had it through 3 winters so far and it’s worked very well to keep the Ollie clean. The cover itself has held up very well also, no rips. It is a 2 person job to get the cover on the trailer. We bought ours directly from Calmark in 2019 but I understand that now the cover is only available from Oliver.

If Oliver is stamping the VIN hidden somewhere on the aluminum frame, they’ve kept it a secret from all of us.

There have been a few threads on this. I have a 140 watt portable Zamp “suitcase” solar setup for our Ollie as well. We didn’t get the factory solar option, and our Ollie doesn’t have the optional Zamp port on the side of the trailer. We don’t boondock much, just quick stops off grid on our way to full hookup campsite destinations. After getting some input from other Ollie owners here and the Facebook page that had done this as well, I made up an adapter plug to connect the solar panel to the 7 pin trailer harness connector. Two of the connnections on the 7 pin connector are the 12v positive directly to the battery, and the negative ground connection. The solar panel has a charge controller and stand built in. It’s worked very well for our occasional off grid stops, enough juice for using the 12v Oliver accessories like the interior lights, water pump, and exhaust fans. And I’ve used the panel once in a while with the Ollie stored as well.

Yeah, I’ll be adding a metal plate, riveted to the frame, before the factory labels fade away. Available from Amazon, customized with your specific info, available as stick-on or rivet options. Custom Engraved Aluminum Trailer id Plate https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DS5BZSG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_0QZPRAH118ZV3YJ42R8X

The VIN is printed on the two labels on the lower forward street side of the trailer. To the right of the reflector in the photo. It’ll also be on your sales paperwork from Oliver. Unfortunately Oliver doesn’t do a more permanent stamped number on the aluminum frame somewhere, at least not on ours anywhere.

Check out this recent post on Oliver Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/groups/OllieOwners/permalink/1189467908124995/

Ditto to this. I don’t need the Andersen hitch with my F-250, so I’m using a simple 2” hitch ball (1-1/4” shank) with a rating of 10,000 lbs., and a ball mount with a rating of 18,000 lbs. The truck is rated to tow 12,600 lbs, with a tongue weight limit of 1,250 lbs. dead weight, 3,334 lbs. payload capacity. So the “weakest link” in the whole system is the 2” Bulldog coupler itself which is only rated to 7,000 lbs. I’ve been considering upgrading to the larger 2-5/16” Bulldog, just to have more safety margin, but so far no issues with ball wear or coupler wear at all. I do grease the ball before each trip. CURT 40056 Stainless Steel Trailer Hitch Ball, 10,000 lbs, 2-Inch Diameter, 1-1/4 x 2-5/8-Inch Shank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08557RHP1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_NQQ3BH5FK65T43Z8VHQT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Draw-Tite 45322 3" Drop Ball Mount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003JID6U6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_D5XDYD3CHP0KZYCFB0ER?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

We are always curious about payload/cargo rating of the tow vehicle because it does affect “what it’ll haul”. Tongue weight of the trailer counts towards the tow vehicle payload number. And a lot of people are unaware that they have exceeded their payload limit with the trailer hooked up, driver and passenger(s) weight, any installed accessories on the tow vehicle like a bed liner, bed cover, or bed cap, a toolbox, a loaded cooler, camping gear, etc. all loaded up. It’s surprising how low the payload number is on some vehicles, even some 1/2 ton pickup trucks. An Elite II tongue weight plus a driver and 1 passenger are ~1,000 lbs. of payload. Even an Elite 1 with driver and passenger is ~750 to 800 lbs of payload. But that Subaru Ascent looks like a pretty good match for an Elite I.

An amazing restoration. Did the previous owner keep all the major parts that were removed? Looks like the Oliver frame, axle, LP tank doghouse, etc. were all removed for mounting on the truck.

Based on that Bright Way part number, those are AGM type sealed lead acid batteries.

The battery part number is hidden under the strap. The part number of yours and the part number of Johnwen’s battery might solve the mystery.

The “G” in AGM does not stand for gel. AGM means absorbed glass mat. Here’s a good article that explains the technology. AGM batteries still use lead plates and sulfuric acid, so they are still a type of “lead acid” battery, but the plates in an AGM battery have fiberglass mesh mats separating the plates, and some other construction differences as well. Old traditional lead acid batteries (the ones you have to top up with water every so often) are wet cell batteries. Based on the link posted above by Chris, your Brightway batteries are AGMs, and your solar controller should be set for AGM batteries. https://www.interstatebatteries.com/blog/what-is-an-agm-battery-and-whats-the-big-deal