ThomB87

Mossey, Yes. I always hook a surge protector to the pedestal then plug the power cord into it. I do the same at home. 110 adapter, surge protector then power cord. So the set up was the same. My external surge protector is a less expensive Progressive Industry model. I had it with a previous trailer. The internal Progressive Industries EMS will protect the internal electronics on the Oliver. But I started using the external one because of horrid stories where the power cord, one of its plugs, or the trailer receptacle got fried due to voltage issues while the trailer was ok. Thanks

I would like the thoughts of the collective wisdom of this group. 2019 Elite II, no solar. Camping at a KOA in Salina, KS on the way home to Colorado. Plugged into the 30A outlet and everything was working fine. Some time in the night the AC quit. Not sure how long, but my wife woke me because the trailer was getting warm. I could tell there was electricity on in the campground. Checked my EMS display and it was blank as if the trailer was not getting any shore power. 30 amp breaker under the dinette was ok but reset it anyway with no change. At the pedestal my external surge protector was all green lights showing power with no problem indicated. The power cord green light was on, showing power was on there. Using the breaker, turned the power off and back on at the pedestal, no change. Unplugged and used my 50 amp adapter to change the power source at the pedestal. Still no change. In the morning we packed up and went home. Read the manual and checked the forum. Saw two threads about a circuit board and a whole unit needing to be replaced. With heartburn over how hard it would be to replace the Progressive Industries EMS, I plugged the trailer into my house circuit to do a double check and maybe some trouble shooting. Everything is fine! Display shows E0 and no PE codes showing a previous error! AC works and 110 outlets show power. What was not working is now working just fine 24 hours later. According to the manual if the EMS shut itself down there should be a PE code the next time you turn it on. But I have no PE displayed. Do I write this off as a one time glitch? Gremlins in the trailer? Was there something I missed in the trouble shooting at the campground?

Article in local emagazine about issues in the high country. https://coloradosun.com/2022/02/04/dispersed-camping-chaffee-county/?pico=clean&utm_source=The+Colorado+Sun+Newsletters&utm_campaign=86bb99292c-SUNRISER_2022-02-04&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_61e0bd63dc-86bb99292c-67493130&mc_cid=86bb99292c&mc_eid=f5fc40bb0f Colorado Sun

Also beside a cover I use dielectric grease to keep moisture out of the plug. Should work on bugs too.

Maybe because mind is attached to the basket and higher up than the tongue, but I have no issues with dirt or other debris when traveling.

I have not had a problem.

I have a Coleman Road Trip grill. The regulator is separate and screws into the grill. I ordered a 12' quick connect hose with an adapter that connects to the regulator fitting. You can get multiple accessories including a cook top for skillets and pots. It does take a while to get a 5 qt pot of water to boil.

I have a Coleman Road trip Grill and a Sequoia portable fire ring both have the regulator built into the hose not attached to the thing itself. I had to buy extra hoses for each with quick connect fitting. But I can use either with the quick connect on the trailer or connect to a separate propane tank. There are also kits out there for Weber and Blackstone grills to adapt to quick connects with low pressure.

Speaking of plugged zerks I have one. Looks like it screws out. Are replacements standard that I can find at auto parts or farm supply? Once removed would it be a good idea to clean any gunk behind it? Best way to do that? PS I found a 90 degree tip and it made the job much easier.

Besides the classified on the forum, there are a couple of on line classified sites specific to molded fiberglass trailers. They cater to people selling and looking for Scamps, Casita's, Escapes, and the occasional Oliver. This way you are hitting a more targeted audience who are looking for the same sized and style of your trailer. .

The 1st thing to check is the drain value next to the toilette front wall of the bathroom. Pulled out is open, push in is closed. Should be out in storage so the drain is open. It keeps gray water in the tank from sloshing up into the shower pan when traveling. Any water going down drains backs up quickly if it is shut. If your gray tank is full, you probably do not want to drop any just on the ground at the storage facility. It is frowned upon in most places. The outlet is in the rear bumper and the value behind the hatch that also contains the outside shower. The question would be why the water in the shower when stowed? (Unless you ran some while working in the trailer.

I know this has been covered before, but I was not having success with the search function. I must not be finding the right key words. Does anyone have ideas on a temperature monitoring senor and app on phone to monitor the how hot the trailer is while away? I realize it may depend upon cell service. There are times when we have to leave our dog in the trailer. I have heard stories of a neighbor tripping over the power cord or a power outage at the park. If the AC ever quit for any reason would like a warning to say need to head back to camp. Same would be true in winter, if the furnace quit. Would like to know before the pipes freeze.

I tried the silicone spray method on mine and it helped tremendously. Use very little and a q-tip to spread it around. Cover the area with a rag or paper towel to eliminate over spray.

We think we are going to love it especially when things open back up. Of course it helps that the grandkids are just an hour away and we both ride bikes. We will go back to AR late March to retrieve our Ollie. Coming back through Santa Fe. Another of my favorite places. Then we have additional trips to the mountains this summer.

I bought some support poles, straps, and stakes from Colorado Carefree. If you search for "Support Poles" you will find a thread with ideas. With my system I have had my manual awning out in 20 - 25 mph wind and it was secure. I still would not leave the awing extended when not close to the camp site.

I put them on a wooden workbench too. Was told not to put on concrete floor. But I do not know the reason either.

The propane CO detector and other parasite drains are the issue. You can unhook the batteries but a shut off switch would be better. Still you will be shorting the life of any battery to leave it sitting for long periods. As stated above a small portable solar will keep the batters charged. Unfortunately if solar is not a option in your storage then bring them home. Keep them in the relative warmth of a garage and use trickle chargers.

I have this hitch and really like it. I got it because of two trailers but have since sold my flat bed. Easier to adjust than to switch out a hitch. BTW says my Ollie is just a bit over 500 tongue weight. I recommend a locking pin.

We have the 5 sided model Clam. Gives a little more room. We love it. Keeps bugs out . Agree easy up and easy down. Stable in wind. Added side panels makes it usable in rain storms.

We will be joining you in Feb/March. We already have our Oliver. We are moving to Ft. Collins from Arkansas. We have grand kids in Lafayette outside of Boulder. Hoping for a eventual Oliver western rally.

I have not tried this with my Oliver yet. But I did with my Casita, when traveling through Colorado with air temps were in the 20's and we had a 3 to 4 hour trip. Drain the hot water heater. Run the water pump till it has no water for a few seconds. Use an air compressor set to blow out the water lines paying attention to get the outside shower. My air compressor was set to 45 PSI, never more than 50 PSI. Did not worry about freshwater tank. As long as the tank is not filled to capacity you are not likely to hurt anything even if it freezes slightly. But I would pour antifreeze in the P-Traps. Once set up and furnace on and internal temps are 40 to 50 you should be ok to turn the water back on. Not that Oliver no longers recommends the blow out method of winterization. There is a slight chance that you could have residual water trapped in a bend or fitting. But I never had any issues in the passed. I think vibrations of travel helps.

Tow hitch is just that, a hitch and probably a 7 and or 4 pin connector. Tow package varies by manufacturer and they may have levels of tow packages. It usually means a bigger alternator, upgraded transmission, larger radiator,bigger gas tank 🙂 etc. . Sales people do not always know. So you have to dig into the details on the sticker and on the manufacturer's website to see what is included the package.

Anyone have experience camping with a 50a to 30 adapter? Booked a site a couple of weeks out and it only has a 50 amp hookup. I have an adapter that I have use in the past with another camper. I am guessing it only configures the contacts. But wondering about the Ollie's Progressive Industries surge protector. I know the progressive is finicky about low voltage and flux in the current. Will it throw an error code? Or will it be just fine plug into 50 amps? Thanks in advance for any insights.

I usually try to keep it under 8 hours. I will push to 10, but only if not traveling or doing a short two to three hours on the next day.

https://retrax.com/retraxone-xr Susan, The cover would be difficult to remove but it could be done. Better choice would be to have a device that allows you to use the tailgate as part of the bed. Also I have a regular one up rack on the back of my wife's Subaru. The roof racks are similar to the trays on hitch rack. But when I checked 1up does not have a kit to convert them for that use.