Rivernerd

With all due respect, 90 PSI is too high for any home or RV water system without risking damage to the components. 65 PSI is the usual recommended safe maximum. As Overland points out, around 40-45 PSI is best if that produces enough pressure for normal use. But I would not recommend ever going above 65 PSI.

But at least the bushings on the F-250 appear to be fully supported, not hanging off the edge of the support bracket. I hope Oliver takes steps soon to get the holes for the shocks drilled more accurately (further inboard) so the bushing is fully supported by the bracket.

As a future owner whose Elite II build is months away, I have added "inspect battery box support bolts--nylock nuts?" to my growing list of items to double-check when taking delivery. I hope Oliver staff monitor this thread, and take steps to further improve their quality control before mine comes up...... But, I commend Oliver for the transparency of this forum. As a retired lawyer, I have been persuaded by the content on this forum that, like the American legal system, Oliver's imperfect production quality and customer service are the "worst in the world, except for all the rest." We remain committed to complete the purchase of our Ollie.

My wife and I have a 2022 Elite II on order. We are weighing battery upgrade issues as well. Although I have no RV experience, I would not spend the extra $1200 to upgrade from wet cell to AGM. Both wet cell and AGMs have lead/acid chemistry, and will likely last anywhere from 3-5 years. Like most folks, I have wet cell batteries in my vehicles, but until recently, used 12V AGMs to power my CPAP machine on extended wilderness river trips because they are sealed (I now use 12V LiFeP04 batteries to save weight). 5 years is the most I ever get from either wet cells or AGMs. It would not be worth $1200 to me ($240-$400 per year depending on whether they last 3 or 5 years) to avoid topping off the wet cells for that period of time. When they die, I would then replace the wet cells with AGMs, because the price differential between wet cell and AGM is not that much. You can buy highly-rated 100Ah AGM batteries today for about $200, so about $800 for 400Ah. https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Battery-Marine-Off-grid-Applications/dp/B075RFXHYK/ref=sr_1_3?crid=7JH0DV2V7EOD&keywords=100ah+agm+deep+cycle+battery+12v&qid=1636300229&sprefix=100ah+agm+deep+cycle+battery%2Caps%2C279&sr=8-3 That said, we are presently planning to spend the extra $$$$ on the Lithium Pro Package, for many reasons: (1) we view it as "future proofing" (it's a lot easier to have the more robust 3kw inverter and wiring infrastructure installed during construction); (2) we hope to be able to run the AC with just our 2kw generator, which requires the Micro Air Easy Start (which is also much easier to install in the factory before the AC goes on the roof); (3) we want to be able to run the AC, albeit for only a short time, on the batteries; (4) LiFePO4 accepts a full charge much faster than lead/acid, and so is more efficiently recharged with solar; (5) 390Ah of LiFePO4 provides much more usable battery capacity than 400 Ah of wet cell, because only about 50% of lead/acid capacity is usable before recharge compared to 85% with LiFePO4; (6) payload,and therefore trailer weight, is an issue with our 2019 Tundra 5.7L Double Cab tow vehicle, and LiFePO4 saves a couple hundred pounds vs. lead/acid and (7) the increased cost is offset to some extent by the 10-year probable life of LiFePO4 batteries. If I had a 7.2kw, relatively quiet and efficient, generator built into my tow vehicle, I may view the lithium upgrade differently. Hope this helps. Ralph Pond

Thanks for the education, and for the copy of the wiring diagram. I wired my new home in Idaho, and have done auto electrical work on my own vehicles. I have also rewired the lights on my raft trailer a couple of times. In each of those applications, the wires have been color coded. It is helpful to know that the ground wires in Oliver trailers are all yellow (as opposed to the green I am used to). Is the yellow ground standard for travel trailers?

NCEagle: Good catch. It appears that Oliver noted your post highlighting the 18.5 gallon vs. 15 gallon discrepancy. I have a 2022 on order, so after reading your post, I checked the specs for the 2022 Elite II: 15 Gal. Design Capacity Black Water Tank with pressure flushing system for the Tank Standard So, maybe thanks to you, new buyers like me are on notice that they are getting only 15 gallons, and maybe less, depending on the difference between actual and "design" capacity.

This same question occurred to me when viewing the photo of the bus bar. Cars and trucks use color-coded wiring harnesses. Why does a high-end travel trailer not do the same? Does Oliver still use the same yellow low-voltage wire for all connections?

I, too, would like to know if there has been a resolution from Oliver to the drawer slide screws tearing out, and the "drawer latches allowing the drawers to open." We have an Elite II on order, and I am interested to learn if Oliver is "beefing up" the mounting system, the latches, or both.

We, too, are evaluating upgrades and add-ons. Our Elite II is in the queue. The kind neighbor who showed us her Elite II advised that she went with the 20 lb. tanks because it was hard for her to lift full 30 lb. tanks over the tank enclosure. As I have bilateral rotator cuff tears that limit my ability to lift heavy stuff above my waist, we are presently planning to stick with the 20s but carry a spare 20 for our dual fuel generator in the bed of our Tundra tow vehicle. The choice to haul a spare 20 also informs our present choice to forgo the extra propane outlets. We plan to also use the spare 20 for a gas grill, as that will not require a long hose if the campsite table is not close to the parking pad, and will not use up the fuel in the trailer tanks. I welcome input on these issues from the many Oliver veterans whose previous posts on numerous topics have proven so valuable to us! Ralph Pond

My wife and I have an Elite II standard floor plan on order. We chose the standard floor plan for two reasons: (1) it allows a 75"x79" king bed with no night stand in the middle and (2) when we recently toured an Elite II with the twin bed floor plan, we both felt a bit cramped lying on one of the twin beds, which the owner graciously allowed us to try. I am a big guy and one shoulder hung off the side of the twin. Not o.k. for me. We plan to use the Elite II for just the two of us, and so will exclusively use the dinette area for meals, reading, etc., leaving the king bed "permanently" made up. Hope this helps your decision. Ralph Pond a/k/a Rivernerd (I am a catarafter and look kinda "white & nerdy") No Hull# yet Central Idaho 2019 Tundra Double Cab 4x4 with tow package