Rivernerd

Sorry for the late reply, but we were traveling in our Elite II this past weekend! I did the firmware update. I have had no [20] inverter error codes since then, but the battery State of Charge also has not dropped below 50% during that time either. I recommend you do the firmware update. Available here: https://xantrex.com/library/firmware-updating/

When preparing our 2022 Elite II for a weekend outing, I found error code [20] displayed on the inverter remote panel. When an inverter reboot produced no change, I consulted the section of the Oliver Owner's Manual Optional features book which addresses our Xantrex Freedom XC Pro 3000 watt inverter. To my dismay, Error Code 20 does not appear in the table of error codes. Codes 1-19, and then 21 are listed, along with their respective meanings, but not Code 20! Since I was at home with good internet access, I checked the Oliver Knowledge Base. Sure enough, Xantrex Error Code 20 is covered in detail there. Included are instructions for resetting the inverter to clear Error Code 20. I followed those instructions. They worked. I hope this post helps someone else who encounters Error Code 20.

If your 2023 model has a Truma air conditioner then, yes, we had a similar experience with our 2022 LEII. We found water leakage around the inside of the AC unit after the first rain storm. Ultimately, Oliver's service staff determined that the leak came from the screws used to secure the exterior AC hood to the AC body, and from the failure to caulk the heads of those screws during installation. Those screw heads sit in wells that collect rainwater. After longer replacement screws were installed, and the wells containing the screw heads were carefully caulked, no more leakage.

We also got the recall notice for our 2022 LE II Hull No. 1291, even though we bought the factory upgrade to the 2-5/16" Bulldog coupler. As you would expect, our coupler reads "12500 lbs." Oliver is just being overinclusive, to be safe.

Another way to think of it: The "Boondocking" configuration is only for when you need to add water to the fresh tank from the rear inlet when boondocking (i.e., you do not have access to a "city water" connection). "Normal" configuration is for when you need to use water from either the fresh tank or a city water connection, regardless of whether you have a water hookup or are "boondocking" at the time of use.

Yes. I turned the red solar cutoff switch in the overhead bin next to the pantry to "Off", and ensured that the inverter remote switch (to the right of the pantry) was in the "off" position.

Jason Essary gets the credit. He authorized the reduction of LBCO after consultation with Xantrex and Lithionics.

The lights and their related switches in our trailers are 12V, with low amperage. Any "bite" from that 12V system should be barely noticeable.

When you buy a multimeter, get one with a clamp, like this one: https://www.homedepot.com/p/600-Amp-Digital-Clamp-Meter-DC-AC-Multimeter-True-RMS-Auto-Ranging-4000-Max-Reading-NCV-Measurement-LED-Backlight-QXBFZDKCWAC60TQ7CV0/325788161 The clamp enables testing of individual wires without having to touch bare wire (which sometimes requires disconnecting one end of it). You can isolate a wire, place the clamp around it, and determine whether it has power running through it. Really helpful for troubleshooting issues like the one you are trying to solve.

I have had good luck for the past 4 years with Dakota Lithium LiFePO4 batteries. I use them to power my 12V CPAP machine on wilderness river trips. Thanks for your diagrams showing that two 320ah Dakota Lithium batteries will fit into the Oliver battery tray. If I ever need to replace my Lithionics G31 batteries we bought with our 2022 Elite II, those diagrams will be helpful.

I am 6'0", and can fit in the twin bed space. That said, once I was able to lie down on a twin bed model we opted for the standard bed configuration in our Hull #1291 because my shoulders hung off the twin bed platform enough that I was not comfortable. The twin bed area may not be either long enough or wide enough for you. We have been pleased with the standard, king-sized bed. It works for us because we just leave the bed made up and limit ourselves to the dinette area for eating/reading, etc,

Not my 2022, Hull # 1291.

Can you cut the duct, move the blue pex line(s) out of the way (pex lines are fairly flexible), and then reconnect the duct, incorporating the duct Tee?

Makes me glad I use 6x6 wood blocks underneath all three jacks. Saved me once too!

The rod and washer on our Hull #1291 are not rusted either, even though they have been wet many times. They appear to be galvanized steel. Makes we wonder if Oliver recently received a batch of poorly galvanized rods and washers. I concur with Topgun's recommendation: send the photos to Oliver Service via a service ticket, and request a replacement rod, washer and cotter pin.

Which is why we use Rophor levelers. They are similar to the Andersens, but include rubber grip strips that are placed on the ground underneath the levelers. After installing one or both of these levelers, as needed to level the trailer, we also hammer in Harbor Freight chocks. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09NJSXRRB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Been there, done that, "got the T-shirt." I learned that my ability to accurately determine which way the campsite slopes is limited. So, I the started carrying chocks for both the front and back of each set of wheels. Before disconnecting the coupler, I ensure that the wheels are chocked both front and back, and rubber-hammered into place. So far, this has prevented unwanted movement.

This is solid evidence that Oliver continues to do the right thing. Regardless of how the 5K rated coupler got to Oliver, Oliver installed it on an Elite II, and took financial responsibility for replacement when it failed, even after expiration of the 1-year warranty. This confirms one of our reasons for choosing an Oliver: a culture of integrity.

Same for us. We have found we do not need to dump the gray tank more often than every 2 days or so, even with showers, so it takes little time away from our camping adventures. We usually dump the black tank first regardless of its level, then flush with the gray tank contents.

Love the Wera and Knipex tools. Your plan may not have yet worked out as well as you hoped, but you have been using quality tools!

Perhaps anyone planning to tow their Oliver Elite II to Alaska should invest in a set of ALCAN 5-leaf springs before the trip.

There have been threads on this forum discussing the weight limitations of racks (bike, cargo, etc.) on the back of an Oliver. As I recall, the limitations result from the increased dynamic load exerted by anything cantilevered off the back of the trailer, far aft of the rear axle. These limitations, in turn, prompted Oliver to limit the bike rack mount to 1-1/4". I recommend you carefully consider what you want to carry behind the trailer, and how that will impact the longevity of the aluminum frame.

So, the welder who told you to never haul your Elite II with a full tank of water was wrong, since the fresh water tank is forward of the broken welds?

I am not a metallurgist, but it seems to me that less flexibility should=less stress on the welds, not more. And, intuitively, doubling the crossmember material should strengthen the entire assembly, reducing stress on the welds.

So, no boondocking? By definition, the places we boondock do not have potable water supplies, so we carry our fresh water in the tank from home. Please include that advice from your welder in a service ticket. Oliver Service needs to know that at least one reputable welding establishment believes the Elite II cannot safely carry a loaded fresh water tank as designed.