SeaDawg

I just now looked at specs I found it interesting, when I looked, that the newer victron connect battery has a much lower water/dust resistance rating (ip 21 vs ip54 on earlier Bluetooth model. ) I would suggest that you vent to the inside, to avoid water/dust intrusion. (Check with manufacturer. ) probably block/waterproof the external vents, and, if it were me, put an extra "eyebrow" of water relief above the battety compartment, aka Eze rv gutter. The 460 ah battery we ordered for our boat is ip67. And, has bolt down features integrated into the waterproof case. We are sailors, as well as campers, so I'm always looking at ip ratings.

Back in the day, Oliver used a tiny part of the facility. (We are #12.) I think it's actually measured in acres. When we picked up our trailer, it was parked in part of the very empty floor. We are so delighted to see the parking lot filled, and space used, when we visit. A very forward thinking family. Not to mention what they have done for the Hohenwald employment opportunities. In my humble opinion, it's been a great symbiosis, between the Oliver family, and the local economy. Most of the current Oliver folks don't know me, but even with a 2008, I'm treated with kindness and respect, on a timely basis. I'm sure @bugeyedriver and @ScubaRx remember the old days. We're a few of the original 50. It's fun to reminisce, but even more fun to see the growth of our favorite trailer. Old school, fuzzy photos, below. I'm so very proud of their progress. Great company culture. Great trailers. We took a chance when they were pretty much brand new. But, my engineer husband and I know quality when we see it.16 years in, we are happy campers.

@Ronbrink, that's a marvelous solution to clean drinking water and some winter camping situations. It looks really pricey, at first, at roughly $300 for the can and replacement filters, but 500 gallons of clean water for $300 is less than you'd pay in the grocery store, and no wasteful packaging. After the first round, replacement filters were 5 for $40 on their website. Now, 6 cents a gallon. Smart improvement. Cpuld be very useful for some folks. Thanks for sharing.

@jd1923 reported that he got good signal in his tv after he mounted the dongle. I dont remember where he mounted it. I'm sure he'll chime in.

I just pulled up the manual for the ve direct smart dongle. Factory cable is 1.5 meters. There is a note that the cable should not be extended. (Highlighted in blue in install instructions below.) I ran a search within the manual for ip67 rating (many of there products are ip67 rated), but nothing came up. I skimmed the 10 pages, and found nothing about water resistance. I'd give them a call.

I caught this on FB today. Oliver crew is celebrating the 1500th Ollie to roll off the line. I'm very happy for everyone at Oliver. I wonder who will get this hull #?

Will Prowse has some great videos on his YouTube channel on the Epochs. This, from a week ago, compares features, and costs, of LiTime and Epoch. I think I've posted this one before in another thread, but it's an interesting teardown of the Epoch 460. He's been very impressed with the case and components. Good luck with your install. That's a whopping amount of amphours!

Looks nice. I would add that I don't own one, and won't ever likely need one. But, comments I've read on other forums is that many campground owners don't like them, so best to have it inside, and not mention the hefty price tag outside, totally available. Good job bringing it inside, and out of view.

True. Unless you crawl under and over other trailers, you may not appreciate the construction. 16 years in, we are very happy with our choice.

Belt and suspenders is never an issue.

Good luck, Alberta, and keep us posted on results.

Old school internal sensors failed early, and always. SeeLevel is awesome, imo. We used them in our boat, too, when we upgraded our system, based onbl their reliability in our camper. As everyone has noted, including @Jason Fosterthey still have to rely on sending through the wall. You said you rarely use the black tank. Change that up, and do follow @Mike and Carol practices. DON'T dump that black tank when only a bit full. Do add calgon, or borax mixed with warm water first, and drive it around to the next camp site. (The old school ice in the tank has never worked for us, in used rentals that we've delivered.) If you follow Mike and Carol's procedures, several times, with a mostly full tank ( you can see it, on visual inspection), you have a bad sensor , imo. Contact SeeLevel. Replacing the sensor with a poop pyramid, or unclean tank walls, will yield the same results. So, do try to clean it up first, imo.

I know. I think a number of manufacturers have moved to 12v dc compressor fridges, because of their superb performance and reliability, with the increasing availability and favorable pricing of higher amp hour lifepo4 batteries . We've had dometic and norcold 3 ways. Used webasto/indel and indel b in various trailers and camper vans. Best performance and reliability for us has been any fridge with dc compressor/danfoss/ secop. I do wish there was still an option for those who love 3way. For many camping styles, it's a sturdy, uncomplicated way to go, and totally sips amps, on gas. I used to think it was the best boondock option. Still is, if no solar or genset. 60 ah a day draw is tough to manage boondocking, without solar. Requires recharging with a genset.

In my experience, many systems will have a "safety cutout" somewhere around 10.6 to 12v. Furnace won't work. 3way fridge won't work. To protect the battery. I've actually never seen a battety at 3v. Good on you that you brought it back. We have brought back batteries at 10 and 10.5 v. They were fairly new, which probably helped.

Smart move. You can still get significant tax credits. We haven't had a power bill in nine years since installing solar. (Just the connection/grid fees). My home system paid for itself a few years ago. I encourage all my friends to install rooftop solar, and many have.

In all fairness, @John Dorrer, the compressor fridges, like home fridges, do need room to breathe. Just not to the outside, as @mountainoliver explained. Just like your home fridge. We installed "rails" or "ledges" epoxied to the cavity sides, and kept the fridge off the floor. Bonus, I have a nice shallow drawer under the fridge, where I keep flat pans, BBQ tools, flashlights, some miscellaneous items. It's open to the base of the fridge. We allowed twice the recommended venting in our install, but if we ever got caught in high temps, I can crack the drawer open a few inches, and double it again. (Not likely for us, as we chase cool weather, but who knows?) Thanks for your thoughts. They actually helped a lot in furthering discussions.

Agm, and fla batteries really do best when not fully discharged to 50 per cent limits, and fully charged daily. I think that's why our solar has given us "extra life" on both the boat and trailer batteries. Lithium is much more forgiving on deep discharge, and only occasionally brought back to 100 per cent. Lithium, in my experience, actually likes hanging out somewhere in the 75 to 80 per cent zone, which is a slow death for lead acid batteries. Different chemistry, different quirks.

I think I'd call the Lakeland truma center, and check on price. You could probably have a fun camping trip, and still be less. If not, I'd check with a local dealer on price to install a traditional 6 gallon (will require changing out the access door, as vents are different), or a different brand instantaneous, if you love it. I think the whole swap was about that price, when we went from a 6 gallon to the Girard instantaneous, though it was years ago. With most 6 gallons, you can run the heater on "free" campground electricity, if you're plugged in. I'm really sorry for your experience, so far. But, I'd encourage you to look into options for service and replacement. Every newbie makes mistakes. Don't be too hard on yourself. You'll not likely do it again.

Eva Cassidy plays a lot in our home. Our Norwegian cousins introduced us tp her, many years ago. On the way to music bingo tonight, we listened to a favorite. Andrea Bocelli and Cristina Aguilera, Somos Novios. (We are lovers, for those who don't speak Spanish.) On the way home, another favorite of mine. Older, but still a fave. Donny Hathaway and the inimitable Roberta Flack. I'll never forget the joy of that concert.

Honestly, there are many times I wish we had skipped the complicated install of the separett, and just put a luggable loo (home depot bucket and a snap seat and cover) in the corner. Easy to clean. No worries. Rarely used,,anyway. And, I'd be $900 ahead, at least . For the extra money, I get a more "attractive " and stable install, no smell. Don't have to dump it evey day. In the barn, we installed a urinal for the guys. Pee bottles + luggable loo would still be many $ ahead.

In our case (indel b truckfridge/non marine version of isotherm) the minimal heat generated is vented to the inside. No outdoor vent specified. No dirt. No mud dauber. No screens necessary. I've used 12v danfoss/secop compressor fridges in three countries. None had an outside vent. A big advantage, for us, on dusty roads, actually. The waste heat, without the flame of a 3way, is quite minimal. Can't even really feel it, with a hand next to the vent grills (interior). Biggest issue with 12v dc compressor fridge is having enough battery power, power management skills, and a way to recharge batteries. 60 ah per day is our average, and with our relatively puny 2 x 12v 105 ah agm group 31s, it does require monitoring, if you're not plugged in all the time. Me? I'm perfectly happy with the tradeoffs I have a smaller freezer, big fridge compartment, interior light, no exterior panel lights at night, and most importantly, a fridge that cools down quickly, and stays consistent in temp. I think we're six years in, and I'm super happy that we made the swap.

A PS.. though I have the separett in my barn, I dislike almost everything about it, except the black tank line connection, and its clean lines and smooth cleanability. Don't even think about it for an rv, imo. Its nothing but a very expensive portapotty.

Is your truma original? Where was your camper this winter? If the truma is like our Girard, you should drain the tiny tank, when you winterize. Also, with truma, I believe you are supposed to remove the filter. I'll leave it to the truma owners to give more info.

@C&MCurrie, nicw install. What material did you use on the upper fridge vent? We lined the old vent with two layers of heavy visquene, and added a sheet of Styrofoam insulation, eventually. (Started with just visquene. ) Did you get the lower vent unit/table from Oliver, or what did you use. Very nice! We always have a small table in that space, anyway. Super nice to have one that just rides on the Ollie! Big kudos!

Changing the sink connection to the black tank, if using the tank for just urine, makes a lot of sense. Many rv bath sinks drain to the black tank. The Swedish separett toilet has a line that can be dedicated to a tank or drain field. I'm kind of surprised that natures head, and airhead haven't already marketed a connection, as most rv toilets are mounted right above the black tank.