SeaDawg

I moved this from another thread. Let me know if the title is OK with you. Curious, are you installing Epoch in your new 600 watt solar install?

That's a code for the water heater/combi. I saw the same. I'm not sure if they're the same, on the varioheat furnace. Good try, though. @Mike and Jill, any updates, now that everyone is back to work at Truma?

Bumping, as likely someone else can help you. I don't have your equipment.

FYI, sharkbite makes another line of connectors (evoPEX) that gives you a green indicator when you have a true connection. It's a little more pricey than sharkbite, but could be worth it in certain situations. I bought a few by accident, when lowes was out if stock on typical sharkbite. Especially on hard to reach areas, it's a little added insurance.

That's true for many. Others plug in all the time. I'm not even considering this for the boat, as we haven't had to "plug in" the last six years, since we added solar. Everyone's camping style is different. But, I'm glad Oliver continues with a relatively affordable industry standard connection. The price of smart plug cords, for a rv, is ridiculous, imo. But, each to his own style. If someone else balances cost vs convenience, and convenience wins, I'm no one to judge.

We've had a 12v secop (previously danfoss) compressor fridge for several years now in our Ollie. We don't have lithium, but we recognize that much of our solar power (400 fixed, 200 portable) goes to the fridge, and I monitor accordingly, and we use few other electrical appliances. It does get tricky in cold weather, using the furnace, and shorter sun days. The Honda 1000 generator comes into play more often, then. We have 2 x 105 ah agm batteries, in our Elite. So, yes, it's a necessity to monitor the battery level carefully, as we rarely have full hookups. Our Elite tray holds (barely) two groups 31 agm batteries, so lithium upgrade may be in the future, when they die. More usable Ah per cubic foot, for sure. It won't be a "large" install, though. We don't "need" more than 200 ah, lithium, could luxuriate in 300, and don't have much room anyway, unless we stole some space somewhere inside, other than the battery tray. Which we might be inclined to do.

I totally agree on the cost vs benefit ratio, for an rv, on the smart plug. The cords are ridiculously expensive, imo. In a marina, where many boats don't move for months, may be worth it, especially in areas with big tide changes, or busy spots where the boats get moved by wakes often. And, salt air/saltwater, especially. I haven't seen the EEL in person, so I'll reserve judgment on that one until I do. It, too, is geared to the marine market, imo. But, at least it's only a $40 increase in investment, on a 25' cord, and uses the common connection. What I don't see is much extra benefit in water intrusion... Of course, unplugging on a regular basis, and examining for loose connections and corrosion, is free, but for a few minutes' time. Priceless, actually.

Another great use for the two step Rubbermaid step ladder we carry. Makes a decent seat, when working lower. My husband uses knee pads a lot, too , sometimes along with a gardening pad. Even if you're younger, it's important to protect your knees. And if you're not, like us, well.... it's just that much more comfort.

As far as I know, you'll be the first with a vitrofrigio replacement in an Ollie. Interesting choice. Very common brand in the boating world, but not common in rv's. I do like the bigger freezer. Is that what drew you, or do you have vitrofrigio experience in a boat, @C&MCurrie?

Smart plug has been around a good while, but it's earliest iteration probably gave it the "smart" label. First gen had a bimetal thermostat that cut power at 200 degrees farenheight, but resumed sending power at 120. This is no longer part of the smart plug, as a) users got frustrated with random power outages, and bad mouthed the product, not understanding why they lost power (didn't read the manual) b) (most importantly) ABYC (yacht equipment rating/approval system, like rvia, for rvs) didn't like the concept. Imagine if you will, ac goes out in the middle of the hot night, and owner digs in, removes covers, digs around, gets a heck of a shock when cord resumes sending power, because the thermostat on the smart plug cooled to below 120. Lights, etc., on boat are still working, because they're 12v , so they didn't check 120 input. C) thermostat didn't always work as designed, and they still had some meltdowns. The integrated thermostat has been discontinued, years ago. I do like the no-fail, odd shaped connection design, and the latching mechanism of the Smart Plug, but not enough to consider changing the connections on our boat for the many $$$$$. I, too, can't figure out the 27x greater contact. I'd like to see an engineering report in that. Most meltdowns are caused by overloading, or corrosion, or crappy connections, or all of the above. BTW, Marinco has a new EEL cord (easy engagement something) connector with spring wings, a slight twist, positive locking mechanism, probably designed to combat Smart Plug, that works with the standard twist lock input. It's a whole bunch less than smart plug cords, and undoubtedly tested to Marinco safety standards. It even has a little led light in the plug, so you can (sort of) see what you're doing, if you're setting up in the dark without a headlanp. I haven't seen an EEL yet, in person, but likely will at the winter boat shows. I like the videos, though. Many boats use a strap for stress relief at connection point. Those 10/3 cords are really heavy . Another consideration. On the few occasions that we plug in, we at least drape the cord over the tire, to alleviate some stress (ollie), and use straps at dock and boat. Edit to add: EEL Marinco short video

True, @topgun2, since we usually camp without hookups, made no difference to us, but... Also, if 12v system ever went down, 110 can be plugged in and you'd not lose all your food.

Happy 123123 day! The end of a year, the promise of new beginnings and new adventures!

If the price is similar or same, I'd just go with the dual power.

Thank you for this, and maybe we should move to a new thread? Would that be ok with you? @Jps190 Will Prowse was very impressed with the epoch battery. We will have to replace our boat batteries this year, and Epoch is now a serious consideration. Ip67 rated. They also have a lifepo4 starter battery. (Most boats with lithium house bank retain a lead acid starter battery, for cranking amps.) Btw, how long have you had Epoch in the golf cart? For those interested, here's a link to Will's review of the Epoch 460.

We looked into the dc only when we were swapping the 3way to a 12v Secop (formerly Danfoss) compressor fridge. I thought it would be fine, as the unit runs on 12v, and the 110 plug in steps down to 12v, anyway. Many boats use 12v only. We wound up finding a deal on a truckfridge tf130 , dual power, 120 and 12v, and the outlet was already there, anyway. What brand are you looking at?

In the case of 6v batteries, run with 2 less. 2 x 6 = 12. Half amperage, but entirely doable,,with power management. I have a number of friends with sob trailers, who boondock (carefully, for few days) with one 12v battery. As have we, in sob campers.

Mine is. We like it. It's insulated (big roll batts), and pretty comfy in the seasons we use it. Your contractor did a nice job, from what I see in the photos. (I also read your blog.) We investigated both conventional framing, and pole barn (pole framed), and chose the steel sided , pole framed for a number of reasons. Investment/price, speed of construction, and availability. (We built during Covid slowdowns.) And, I'm familiar with both. (My family built a couple steel buildings, and a bunch of conventionally framed buildings. My brother sells pole barns in Minnesota. ) I like your sidemount garage door openers. (Still have to allow room for the overhead rails.) We looked into them, but our contractor advised against, based on availability, and size of our conventional garage door. Everything for us was an availability issue. Lumber, fasteners, pvc, wire... (except the steel) you name it. Garage door took six months. Windows, six months. (We ordered in January, at urging of our contractor, got them in July, I think.) We went to 6 different stores in three counties, for 12/3 wire one day. Omg. Thankfully, the pain is over, and we really are happy with end result. Back to the op, if you maintain 2' dimensions everywhere, if conventional framing, you'll save a lot of waste. Dimensional lumber is in 2' increments. Never do odd dimensions, if you can help it. Plywood/osb/Hardie panels, 4 x 8' , typically. Cutting takes time, and makes waste. (Honestly, cutoffs usually go to dumpster, even usable, unless you watch it, as we do.) If you can add length to 36', or more, I'd do it. 32' width, again, I'd do it. You'd be surprised how little more it costs to add a few feet, either way. There are major site prep costs that add more to most finished buildings than a foot (or 6) either way. Our home garage is 24 x 36, and we manage, but the Ollie sits in the side yard, and my husband's truck in a side drive. (My Silverado gets a garage spot.) 2 cars, workshop, and my truck. And, a bunch of very important shelving containing stuff, and more stuff. Lol. Good luck with your decision. I have to agree with the posters who said to build as big as you can. @RustyMD, if you can go 32 x 40, or 30 x 40, I'd go extra length before width, imo. Edit to add: if you are looking at a metal building, look at the newer crinkle finish for sides. It's a much less reflective, warmer finish. Not your standard shiny stuff. I love ours. The "garage" side in my photo is 32 x 36. The workshop side (behind the "porch" is 16 x 30. For reference. We went with one big garage door, because of the incline, and angles of backing. With a flat approach, or pull through, two garage doors would likely be easier. )

I moved the hijacks to this thread

Split for you. Let me know if I missed anything.

Cast iron goes in our truck bed when we travel.

We've built a couple garages, with hopes of accommodating our Elite I, along with other vehicles and trailers. If 15 x 15 x 30 is what your restrictions allow, go for it. If you can go at least 16 wide, I'd do it. An extra foot gives room for shelves, and a workbench on rollers. And, all that other "stuff". If you have room, at least go longer and wider,, for resale, if you ever decide to move. 30' length won't accommodate most class c's or a's. Our pole barn garage is 32 x 36, still short, but we needed room to swing the truck, and have a significant probably 3' incline, in the path. That's a factor, too. We have a 14' high door, so no factor for entry, but arse end of truck is high for "short me" to unload, unless we are well inside, because of the inclined apron, on rainy days. Still, it holds three workbenches, the Elite, two utility trailers, two or three atvs, and the truck, as necessary. And, various "necessary " shelving, genset, weedeaters, etc, etc. But, it's a jigsaw/chiclets game of maneuvers. If all you need is a shelter for your Ollie, you are good to go. Room for a slim rolling scaffold on each side. Remember that you need extra height for the garage door opener, and ratlines/overhead beams.

We routinely replace trailer tires at five years. Maybe a waste, maybe good insurance. We run st tires.

If I were going to make a portable solar farm (Great idea for us boondockers), and I were using flex panels, I'd think I'd want a ground cloth (clean tarp) underneath, to alleviate scouring on the bottom side of the panels. Just my opinion.

This one? I don't necessarily trust his reviews, as I do those of Will Prowse, as he heavily advertises his products reviewed.

This is one from bougerv. Interesting size. 14" x 85" Ps, gj, I saw that video, bullerholes, but can't remember if it was here. I'll find it, if I can.