Ronbrink

Next ‘go’, I may try the board and lift method. If enough clearance, a may slip some cable ties around the truss to hold the rubber runners in place, as opposed to an adhesive.

My 2020, 579 was picked up pre-COVID, Bryan’s 2020, 665 likely COVID.

GJ, I think you meant to write 2020 builds, Hull 579 for me and 665 for Bryan, both Twin models.

I ruled out trying to lift the hull in any manner for fear of cracking the gelcoat/fiberglass. Oftentimes when I attempt to do something “very carefully”, stuff happens! However, your suggestion to use soapy water to cleanse and lubricate is a good one. Also, I will take a look at the hull nuts, as well. Thanks for your response. I don’t know how commonplace this issue is, but other’s suggestions to open a service ticket may have some merit. It would be interesting to know Oliver’s thoughts regarding a lift to the underbelly or some other proven remedy for the fix. Since I’m a ‘huge’ DIYer (yet another thing that drives my wife nuts!), I’ve learned to be very resourceful and handy at making and fixing things over many, many years, thus reluctant to ask for help. That said, you will probably submit a service ticket long before I give thought to it. I transit mostly paved so I can rule out “wash-boardy roads” as the culprit in my case. My thought on use of an adhesive/sealant was to simply run a bead along the edge of the runners, rather than attempt to adhere them at the mating surfaces; not there yet. Did someone say ‘magic mushrooms’?

Last Spring while upgrading to Timken wheel bearings, I noticed some of the rubber neoprene runners Oliver places between the aluminum frame and fiberglass hull were out of place. After remounting all of the wheels, I crawled under the trailer to further examine in order to devise a fix. I eventually made use of some trigger clamps to help force the runners back, with varying degrees of success. I had similar issues previously with these ‘cushions’ at the tongue frame and was able to use cable ties to hold them in place. However, due to the tightness at the underbelly supports, the best I could do was attempt to reposition them with thoughts of continued monitoring of future migrations overtime. I did find these runners secured on each end with a screw, which lessened any concern of them falling completely out (think added rubber road debris for motorist to dodge!). This is what I found. Note the smudges made first trying to use a rubber mallet to force back in place. I began by attaching a clamp at the outermost points of concern. Then used additional clamps to work the runners moving inwards. Easy, right? Not so much, very little clearance tolerance! Retainer screw at each end. It would have been nice if Oliver would have used adhesive, as well, to keep these runners in place! Cable tie used at frame tongue. No further a problems there at the three points! To conclude, although I don’t perceive this a ‘major’ problem, these runners were factory installed for a purpose and thus, I feel obligated to maintain them to ensure proper support of the hull’s underbelly.

I ‘bearly’ made it through the Escape video!

Exactly what I was looking for, thank you so much!

Actually, I want to have a waterproof encasement made for the KTTs and was asked for the radius dimension. The thread SeaDawg highlighted was very helpful. I appreciate your helpfulness, as well! Thanks

Do you recall the corner radius used in making your custom mattress?

After a couple more emails regarding my Service Ticket, I received the following: FINAL OTT RESPONSE: Based on the information you provided to us it does not seem like the inverter is working as it is designed to, this could be due to the settings. That is why the settings were sent to you to verify that all of those are correct. Xantrex would be responsible for this warranty and may have some trouble shooting steps that they would walk you through so I would recommend contacting them directly to see if they would replace under warranty, but I do not know if they would do so as it has a two-year warranty that would have run out on 01/28/2022. Xantrex Llc 541 Roske Dr, Elkhart, IN 46516 (800) 670-0707 It’s not certain if OTT ever reached out to Xantrex, as told they would, but their evaluation leads me to believe the Xantrex is not operating correctly. NOW for that call I was hoping I wouldn’t have to make!

Snapped some pics yesterday while servicing the tires on my TV to illustrate the Anderson conversion and use. If unfamiliar with Viair, they come with alligator clips for a direct battery connection at either the TV’s under hood or RV’s house battery(ies). Prior to the installation of the Anderson at the rear bumper to power a DC-DC charger, I would pop the hood, connect the Viair and stage it on the ground at the front passenger side tire; which made for a long hose stretch to the Oliver’s rear, driver side tires. In using the Anderson, the Viair is now more strategically positioned when servicing both vehicles and much more convenient. However, there may be instances when the Viair is needed elsewhere, so the alligator clips were converted, as well.

It appears the cupboard door is flush against the hull fiberglass; seems a simple twist lock type sash fastener would suffice. Here is one for example only, the arm would swing down and hold the door in the open position. If not flush at the top, it could be mounted on either side, in similar manner. A ‘search’ will reveal a variety of this type fastener to consider for your specific application.

That makes perfect coffee sense!

Hi Peggie. Curious why you are flipping the cupboard door, I could not find where you stated your rationale. I’ve often thought of doing the same at the rear attic to lessen the chance of its’ impact to the TV when deployed.

Curious which axle you have, 3500 or 5000?

My order details.

If you go to ‘Ollie Modifications’ and scroll through GJ’s post below, you will find a comment made with pertinent information. Power connectors and solar ports were both cheaper on ebay. Flexible Solar Panels By Geronimo John

For an external port, a waterproof connection is my preference. I purchased a couple of Andersons that had a ‘weather tight cover’ to seal when not in use, but returned them due to concerns when using in inclement weather. Although Anderson offers dust and waterproof components, I found none that were flush mount. Conversely, I ordered ports with waterproof bayonet-style connections when in use.

I am still awaiting a response regarding OTT’s consultation with Xantrex and a definitive answer to my question - Is this the norm for my Xantrex or is it not operating correctly? I did get the following from Jason E., which implies voltage will be maintained after bulk charge. I think a call in in order! FURTHER OTT RESPONSE: The charge cycle of the Xantrex can be changed within the settings either manually or by selecting a battery type and temperature. We typically select a battery type and manually update based on the battery manufacturer's recommendation. It will initially charge at a bulk rate which is higher amperage, as low as 30a for standard 12v batteries, 60a for AGMs, and up to 150a for some lithium batteries but this depends on the battery type & number of batteries in the bank. After bulk charge it will maintain the voltage but starts to gradually drop the amperage until it goes into Float charge which will be a low amount of amperage like they are on a battery maintainer.

I have since upgraded to a 40A DC-DC charger.

Recently posted to Oliver FB: “Nothing like a good morning cup of coffee while checking out the Oliver Owner Forum and FB. I’m the early riser and making use of my new Lagun table, front and center; the wife’s Lagun shows how it is used at night to stage extra bedding rather than out of reach at the dinette table/seats.” The Lagun tables performed as expected during a recent five-day trip. The only ‘cons’ thus far, are cost and the narrower passageway when the two are positioned directly across aisle from each other; however not that much of a hindrance and serves as a convenient support hold when navigating the narrows. Some ‘pros’ include unobstructed access to the night stand drawer; installation of a Lagun wherein the basement access door was opted; no need for removal and thus, encumber closet storage when not in use; no more maneuvering around the Lagun, as originally mounted, to access the rear attic; easy to move individual bed tables to serve a variety of purposes while laying in bed with unobstructed ingress/egress; no bed cover impediment; staging area for additional bedding or whatever; additional counter space at the galley for food prep; multi-positional standing desk(s); additional sofa bed seated dining; and, although not tested, perhaps a bridge between the twins as a platform for expanded bedding. ‘Nuff said!

I’ve been very pleased with my LiTimes: the 100Ah ‘mini’ in a potable power station, two 230Ah in the Oliver’s battery bank; each installed with a Victron temperature sensor for good measure, as well as Victron SmartShunts. Also installed a Victron monitor in the power station. A weight loss of ~150 lbs. by switching out the four 6V Trojan T-105s and double the available amp hours, what’s not to like?

Thanks to all, somehow I feel a bit ‘smarter’ by way of your responses!

I found the SAE connections in my initial install to be unsatisfactory. Either the wires were too stiff, there was too much vibration or a combination thereof, but the plug components would loosen, heat up and disconnect; very frustrating. Since changing to bayonet coupling components, problem solved. This is the set used with my homemade 100ah LFP portable power station for both input and output connections. These, as well as the solar connectors shown below, are also waterproof! Given the success of this style connector, I purchased a like product to use in my pending exterior solar plug installs, one forward at the propane tank housing and one aft at the basement hatch. Although the solar port shows 10A, I believe that to be a misnomer. The lead wires on the reverse side appear to be substantial enough to support a 20A system, and thus fine for use with a 200W solar panel.

I would think (meaning I don’t really know in fact) the Victron SmartShunt would have something to do with the balance of varied incoming currents, as each charging source independently completes their respective charge cycles to float, thus allowing them to “play together” to reach full battery bank SOC.