dewdev

The previous owner of my Elite II (#354) has some type of problem with the heating system and Oliver suggested removing the dampers from each vent, as mentioned by Chukarhunter above. I have not had any problem with the furnace or short cycling of the furnace over the past 2 years I have owned my Ollie.

Mike and Carol: Bill and Nancy have a 2022 Elite II, hull #1265. I clicked on their Icon and that information is on their profile.

Jimmy63 Two suggestions: 1.When you remove the batteries if you have solar panels make sure you seal the solar wire ends with something like putting them in a zip lock bag as the solar panels will still send current down to the wires even with the batteries removed. 2. When you put the batteries in your garage put them on some wood so they are not on the concrete floor as the concrete will drain the power out of them. Good luck

Dave: You could use the search bar in the upper right corner. The subject has been discussed a few times in the past, but I am sure others will chime in and repeat their method of installing and taking off. Make sure you cover the sharp edges, like the solar collectors so they do not tear the cover.

The parts have been sent to the new owner.

Based on what I have seen on this forum, you may have had some type of a bug that left a web in the area where the flame starts heating the furnace. I had the same problem you had a year ago and installed a screen over the furnace outlet, which I saw was recommended on this forum. I have not had a problem since.

I bought a box of five 30 amp slow fuses at NAPA auto parts for around $7. They did not have them the first time I inquired but two weeks later they had that one pack, which I think they ordered after I talked to them the first time.

I bought my KTT mattresses in the spring of 2021. Dick and his wife were great. My used Ollie had one KTT mattress and one cushion seat. The one KTT mattress had mold on the under side so I threw it away and now have 2 twin mattresses and bought and installed the Hypervent myself. I like a little stiffer mattress then the one I replaced in the Ollie so Dick had mine made in either 38 ILD or 42 ILD (do not remember which). I picked the mattresses up myself and visited my sister-in-law that lives about 1/2 hour away from KTT and saved on the shipping cost, The KTT mattress are very comfortable and I am glad I got them.

S C Lisa: I removed my front Oliver graphic to replace it with a lighthouse picture made by my local sign shop (I provided them with a jpg image). I used a couple of plastic razor blades. I also used a small hair dryer on the parts that came off hard. Just take your time and do not heat up the graphic/fiberglass too much.

I remember seeing a post a month or 2 ago of someone that modified the compartment floor where the sewer hose is located so a hose can come out of the bottom of the compartment so the hatch can stay closed. You might want to check it out, maybe under the "Ollie Modifications" page.

If you google a service place, you will probably see reviews for that location that you can read.

Bill: Yes the NH toilet cost more but the Oliver is expensive too. So what. I agree the NH toilet is a little taller than the standard. Not a concern for me. For my wife, I bought a fold-up "Squatty Potty" toilet stool that takes that concern away. You only wait and deal with the composted waste. No big deal. After the waste has composed you put a plastic bag over the toilet and tip the toilet over to empty the compost into the bag. Better than dealing with raw sewerage and wasting good water. To each their own, though.

I agree with the other posts here to see what other people have said about this subject.. It has been discussed many times in the past. Read them so you can make your up your own mind. We have the compost toilet (do not do much boondocking) and am glad we have it instead of the regular toilet. It is not that hard or difficult to empty and it is a lot better than dumping the black (poop) tank. It is a great ecological way to go.

Dumb questions: It looks like the sign in wants you to put in your password twice. Did you do that? If all else fails, call Oliver. I am sure they will help you.

This is the directory for the fuses under the dinette: AC BRANCH CIRCUITS (breakers) DC BRANCH CIRCUITS 1 Main 30 AMP 1. Fridge 20 AMP 2. AC 20 AMP 2. Optional 12 V Nightstand 20 AMP 3. Fridge 20 AMP 3. Water Pump 15 AMP 4. 110/Micro 15 AMP 4. Furnace 7.5 AMP 5. Charger 15 AMP 5. Basement ?? 7.5 AMP 6. 12 V Dinette 20 AMP 7. Optional 12 V Nightstand 20 AMP 8. Optional Compost 1 AMP

I have an 2018 Elite II, hull 354. This is the directory for the fuses in the attic

John: What is the lights over the bathroom door, in the all light on picture? Is that something you added yourself or is a reflection?

Good to know. Thanks Once needs to be done to get cable in a CG? Is it just connect the cable and configure the TV control for cable?

If you have the Winegard Omni Direction Antenna, then you would have the booster switch. Look in the attic for a switch plate with a black button on it that topgun2 indicated. The button needs to be pushed in turn on the booster to get local TV stations. Not sure about how the cable works.

Which forest?

Touch up PAINT is different than gelcoat. Touchup paint can last a long time. SeaDawg is correct gelcoat would dry up very fast and not be useable.

Yes, you need DC power to run the controls of the refrigerator. With the dead batteries, you will likely not see any of the control lights being lite. Also, the owner's manual for the refrigerator tells you that you need 12V power (or plugged into 120V power which gets changed to 12V).

Mary: 1. I agree that it would be best to remove the bad batteries for the winter. You do not want leaking acid dropping onto the battery tray or the fiberglass underneath. 2) If you are going to replace the batteries with AGM's in the spring take the LIthium switch off, so you do not forget when installing new batteries. 3) For the winter without any batteries in the Ollie, be sure to temporarily seal the ends of the wires from the solar collectors. Put them in a good plastic bag. Even though in a barn, there may be enough light to allow the solar collectors to make a little bit of power.

Thanks bhncb: If the Dometic thermostat is replaced with the Emerson non-programable thermostat which existing wires are connected to the Emerson?

I am researching replacing my Dometic AC with the new Truma Aventi ECO AC unit during the Truma free install offer The Truma AC unit is rated at 13, 5000 BTU/hr. It requires at a minimum CG power connection of 20 amps. Condensate is handled by an internal drain tube using their interior drain kit. I got a call from the Truma installer as I had a few questions the sales person could not answer. I was told that the furnace would work with the Dometic thermostat if the controller which is probably located above the interior AC air distribution cover. I remember seeing on this forum that people were having to install a different furnace controller after changing out the Dometic AC. QUESTION: For those that removed your Dometic AC unit, was the thermostat controller located up in the AC unit and could not be reinstalled thereby requiring a new thermostat for the heater?