dewdev

Update: Now after 6 days of soaking with the Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinder, I was able to free up the cylinder. Did not use the pull cord, as I was concerned that the cord would break. I used a socket set on the nut on the flywheel. A little forward and reverse and the cylkinder now moves freely even with the pull cord. Next task is to suck out the remaining Marvel Mystery oil on top of the cylinder, change the crank case engine oil and check out the spark plug, regap it and see if if it is getting a spark. Hopefully with fresh gas, I can get it to started and not have to play around getting access to the carberator, which will be a mystery to this non-mechanic.

My RAM has air suspension with 3 height settings (one for Eco mode). Because of the air suspension it rides as smooth as a car. Per a dealer service rep, who had one without the air suspension he said his road real rough.

Does anyone use TravlFi for mobile internet? Are you satisified with this service?

I have a follow up to my Bonding Plug post question. I need to fix the generator which is a Powermate 2000 (about 7 years old). I bought it for $20. The guy tried to start it 3 years ago and could not get it started. He set it aside for the last 3 years and the engine is now seized up and all the gas in the tank evaporated. I am guessing the carb may also be gummed up. I took out the spark plug and poured in some Marvel Mystery Oil into the cylinder, after Googling how to fix a seized engine cylinder and talking to another Mainer that has run into this situation in the past. Hopefull after 2 or 3 days or 4 or 5 days it will loosen up the piston. I really do not want to take off the cylinder head if the Mystery Oil does not work. If I can not free up the cylinder, I may just take the generator to the metal recycle dump. If anyone has any ideas on freeing up the cylinder or clearing the carb (short of taking the carb apart), please let me know. Thanks

Thanks for the links on the bonding plug.

Just bought a inverter-generator for use when camping. Do I need to purchase a bonding plug for it to provide power to the Ollie?

I like your counter in front of the pantry. Is it a Foy wood counter? What type of wood is it?

Bill: I could not find on the Forum the semi-permanent rubber padding you are referring to. Is it possible for you to locate that post?

Not really, probably as old as most. I just marked them for instance: DF which stands for Driverside, Front. Can't forget that type of marking.

I numbered each sensor cap using a white paint stick. I numbered them in such a fashion that I would not forget where they go.

csevel: I have the Oliver rear receiver. I took off the 1-1/4 receiver completely, as I did not want to remove the insert in the receiver and have a thin receiver. I bought a new 2" receiver, had a welder weld side ears on the receiver, and bolted the new 2" receiver on the center of the rear receiver cross plate. The welder also gave me plates for under the receiver cross plate for the bolts to bear against. I only use this for a bike rack for my two very light fiberglass bikes which weigh a lot less than 150 lbs. I think this arrangement is a lot better and secure then bolting to the rear bumper plate. If you want, PM me and I can send you a few pictures.

I have the RV lock on my Oliver. I was having trouble with it (as was 4 years old) and I am the second owner. I would recommend you purchase from RV lock directly. They are great to work with. They helped me trouble shot my RV lock problem. At first they thought it was one of the computer boards and sent me a new one at no cost even though I was the second owner. That did not fix the problem so they recommended their new upgraded inner handle plate which they sold me. It has better contacts then the older model. It was shipped to me and I got it in 2 days. This corrected my problem. This company is top notch in customer service. They will stay on the phone and guide you through any trouble shooting. I like the fact that I have three ways to unlock the lock; keys, a remote obb or the key pad.

geO: Here is the informatioin: Timken Outer Bearing: SET4 Timken Inner Bearing: SET17 National Seal 473336 Be sure to buy real Timken bearings not China knock-off's (packaging looks the same)

My cell phone service is Verizon

My 2018 has a fuse panel in the attic. Breakers would have been better!

I wonder if that is wear spots from having a canvas cover on the Ollie in the winter?

I have a slightly different issue. I can log onto the Oliver web site using my main computer as well as my laptop. When I try to log on with my Samsung Galaxy S-10e antroid phone I get the following error message: "Something went wrong. Please try again" I have tried a number of times and continue to get this message. Any ideas on how to solve this issue would be appreciated?

My questions are -- Is the Kidde detector rated to be in a RV that obviously moves over the road and gets a lot of vibration? Why did Oliver use the one they provide as opposed to a inexpensive easily procured Kidde unit?

Just finished my install today of the side mount. Plan to use the table now. Now I have a hatch into the basement, which I wanted for during cold weather to get some heat to basement, while using a small fan. Will insulate the outside hatches at some point. Thanks Overland for your post and Mattnan for your helpful hints.

I saw Beacon on I-95 in Wells Maine heading south yesterday around 4:00 p.m.

I certainly now see the advantage of a dash cam after reading about Questionmark's accident. But I do have some concern with all the gadgets I now have and adding a dash cam all with their monitoring display near each other in the TV cab. The devices will include: (1) Garmin 890 RV GPS, (2) Ollie's rear view camera monitoring display, (3) TPMS monitoring display, (4) cell phone and (5) now a dash cam. I remember reading in the TTPS manual about interferance of their monitoring display if near other similiar devices. Will they all work properly in the cab together? Do they need to be located in seperate areas of the cab? I would appreciate others opinions and experience with multiple system running concurrently. Thanks

rideandfly: I would be interested in how you find the 59 Quick Wax to work. Please let us know. Glad in New England we do not have whatever the black spots being referred to is. In my post, I was only referring to water stains needing to be removed.

John: I think that SeaDawg installed a Houghton AC last year. Check with them on your questions.

I agree with SeaDawg. Use mildest to start with. When I purchased my used 3 year old Ollie, there were a lot of black water stains on the side walls that came from dirt (I think) from the roof. This Meguiar's 67 is what I used to remove black water stains on my Ollie. It is pretty mild as far as compounds go. Some other products also worked but required a lot of rubbing. This Meguiars 67 One Step Compound took off the spots with very little rubbing. I used a cloth to apply it and another cloth to remove and polish it. DO NOT use a power buffer with any fiberglass compound products. After I cleaned the the fiberglass I used the below Meguiars Professional Marine wax. I use two coats each spring and another coat in the fall. I have owned four older fiberglass boats over the years. I always used to use Star Brite products or West Marine products but I really love the Meguiar's products better. Good luck and let us know how you make out.

As far as bearing, nothing better than American made