MAX Burner

@johnwen - Thanks for the "follow", brother! SUGGESTION: Try taking the DC power for the new fans right from your fridge's power block connection in the lower left of the (lower) compartment (power block circled in below pic - this a Dometic application, if you're running a NORCOLD, its in a similar location as I recall). This way you can control the "ON/OFF" functioning of the fans using the remote control. For example, if you don't need the fans running for any particular reason, you can select a high "ON" temperature on the remote. This is how we've been doing it - which is meeting our needs. You can always wire in an "ON/OFF" switch on the "+" wire to the remote controller. Good luck!

Last summer, we mounted the same low-amp draw Beechlane double-fan assy in our upper fridge compartment with the remote mounted in the lower compartment similar to how @Ray Kimsey has done. With the Dometic, it was a better to mount the fan assy on the upper cover/vent itself. The wiring is fixed with Anderson quick disconnects to make for easier inspection/cleaning, etc. Before/after interior temps in fridge have dropped several degrees (both in main storage and freezer areas) with the Dometic temp setting at "7" out of "9". @johnwen - FYI: We had to trim about 1/4" of the upper compartment cover/vent moulding away for a proper mounting position of the fan assy. Accurately and effeciently done with the trusty Dremmel Tool...: The remote can either control a manually-set RPM percentage or a manually-set "temp ON" range. The red LED indicates power to the controller, blue is the "temp-on" setting. These LEDs can be observed at night through the lower cover/vent - hasn't bugged us too much. If it does become bothersome in the future, the LEDs will be fixed with a small piece of black electrical tape. Hope this helps... Cheers!

Hey, John: Concur, 100%! Well written - that would be the ultimate fix! Thanks for collecting this info, brother! Mahalo!

How about, "Tough", "Made-to-last", "Resistant"?

@Geronimo John: Maybe add a data field for "price point"?

@k2watsen: Welcome to the Oliver Family! PREDICTION: The longer you lurk or otherwise participate in the Oliver Forums, the more likely you’ll be converted, sucked in, and ultimately made into an OTT Owner! CAUTION the previous comment regarding “empty nesters”: Speaking strictly from experience, THEY COME BACK! Cheers, and don’t hesitate to use the valuable knowledge base these forums provide!

Very good call, IMO. A SHORT RANT: It's always a good thing to get your rig & TV weighed every once in a while - we do our's at the beginning of winter and spring because our load-outs are different for each season. D & I ran into another RV'er (AS type) a couple months ago at Picacho Peak SP in AZ. We discussed GVWR - both trailer and TV. He was new to RV'ing and literally had no clue that GVWR is the maximum loaded weight of the TV (or trailer), as determined by the manufacturer and is placarded on both. He didn't know that the GVWR isn't just the weight of passengers and cargo but also the vehicle itself. I explained that the gross vehicle weight rating is all about safety. So we did a little drill - we located his placarded GVWR sticker on his TV and learned that the "useful cargo load" on his brand new Titan was 1,250lbs. On the back of an envelope we added up the weights of everything the Titan was hauling. You guessed it, with the 2 passengers, his 300# topper, camping gear, and the AS tongue weight of 950 (way over the 9-11% target wt. for a 7200# rig) - he was over his MAX cargo load by an unsafe margin. He said, "Holy crap, I need a bigger truck!" "Yup, or just pay attention to your equipment and respective weights", but that was my "inside voice." We did the same drill for his AS and discovered he was over his GVWR by several hundred pounds. The conversation went into liability issues should he perform an unsuccessful emergency stop while towing with an overloaded rig and TV - subsequently damaging property and/or causing injury. He got the point and was thankful for the conversation. He explained that no one advised him of this information during his recent purchases of the AS and Titan. The dude isn't probably the only one out there on the road without a clue about this basic, yet important topic. Admittedly, preaching to the choir here - but not only should we take this topic seriously but we can also be watchful for those like this guy and get the word out. Wouldn't be surprised if he's converted his Titan into a new 1-Ton diesel by now... HA!

Guessing that @Jps190 has those bad boys wired in series and his Victron MPPT smart charge controller is doing its thing by running 13.6v into his battery bank (guessing too that they're AGMs). Very clean mod, John! BRAVO ZULU!

Congrats @Doug S! Welcome to the OTT Family - you'll be love'n your new Oliver before you know it!!! Safe travels and hope to meet y'all "down the road" at some point.... Cheers, Doug and Jill!

Always love a clean engine bay!!! Nice looking compartment, @jd1923! Well done, brother!

Good discussions and points of view regarding this "OTT Spring Issue". What a great group!!! Speaking with Mike, I asked about ALCAN's track record, and can confirm @Patriot's comment that indicated they've never had a set of springs returned. Don't think Dexter can make that claim. But that's not the only reason why we're upgrading our suspension with ALCAN 5-packs. OBSERVATION: There may be a couple "OTT owner" camps here - there are those owners that purchased their rigs new from Oliver and those, like us, that bought used. Those buying new know exactly where their rigs have traveled, they know the level of maintenance performed over the years, and they know what's been broken, replaced, and upgraded. OTOH, those owning 2nd/3rd-hand Olivers have absolutely no clue how their treasured rigs were treated by previous owners, at least we sure don't. That said, especially concerning running gear, we don't take any chances and err to the side of safety. Short of taking our springs to an NDA lab for analysis (not a cheap date, either) - we've decided to go with the ALCAN 5-pack upgrade for peace of mind. For those that choose not to have their springs NDA-inspected, having a spare in the bottom of the tool box might be a prudent action, IMO. Totally agree with @hobo's assessment - $'s well spent. 'Nuf said here.... Cheers!

OBTW: Our new USA-made steel 5-pack springs should arrive from ALCAN Springs (Grand Junction, CO) around MAR26-ish. $671 (incl. new U-bolts), no tax, plus shipping to NM from CO. FYI: Owners interested in this mod should note that according to Mike from ALCAN, U-bolts are a one-time use item. Once they're mounted and torqued to specification and re-torqued after 50 miles, they form a "stretch fit" and cannot be reused once originally fixed to an axle.

Agree with @Ronbrink and @jd1923: "Old" is not necessarily a bad thing (sometimes). Here's my '84 R90, just north of 35k miles (my son and I literally took it to bare metal and brought it back to life in '06):

Hey, @Patriot: How can I get a pair of those Oliver Cargo Shorts? HA!

Concur, 100%! It's like our "Fortress of Solitude"....

Dexter may have a suggestion for a better shock for the OTT running gear. I'll check with Mike at ALCON Springs tomorrow - he may have a suggestion as they do a lot of rock crawler suspension mods....

Hummm.... not a bad idea! HA!

Correct! The 4 mounting holes filled w/white silicone....

@Stevon - We replaced our's last year. The shocks were most likely OEM from when Oliver built it - if memory serves, 3 of the 4 were bad. We went with the same shock from Monroe - only difference was they're no longer yellow, they're black now. We'll be checking these new shocks when we replace the leaf springs in a couple weeks. They've got just north of 11k miles on them...FYI PS: It would be nice if you could add your OTT hull number and year to your signature block so other owners can better help answer any future questions you may have.

Thanks, @hobo - we just placed our order for five 5-spring pack leaf springs with Mike at ALCAN Springs in Grand Junction (we'll carry a spare).

Nicely done, Brother!

Same here - belted to the bulkhead with footman loops and 1" tubular nylon strap.

Thanks, @Wandering Sagebrush!!! Seems to really be the correct mount - almost seems silly to mount it below the nightstand drawer now... What's nice is that we can still drop the table onto the bed rails which fills the gap making a "dog bed" for the 2 Knuckleheads.

Exactly right on, Brother! @DavePhelps's approach solves this issue very well, IMO. We've experienced a 15 degree air temp differential between the closet and cabin this winter! Redirecting the bathroom supply from the furnace like some owners have done should help a lot. These two adjustments are on the top of our "next to do" list. Time to warm up that 4" hole saw! Cheers!

Learned a long time ago - we don't sell guns, ammo, and TOOLS!