MAX Burner

Concur, 100%! It's like our "Fortress of Solitude"....

Dexter may have a suggestion for a better shock for the OTT running gear. I'll check with Mike at ALCON Springs tomorrow - he may have a suggestion as they do a lot of rock crawler suspension mods....

Hummm.... not a bad idea! HA!

Correct! The 4 mounting holes filled w/white silicone....

@Stevon - We replaced our's last year. The shocks were most likely OEM from when Oliver built it - if memory serves, 3 of the 4 were bad. We went with the same shock from Monroe - only difference was they're no longer yellow, they're black now. We'll be checking these new shocks when we replace the leaf springs in a couple weeks. They've got just north of 11k miles on them...FYI PS: It would be nice if you could add your OTT hull number and year to your signature block so other owners can better help answer any future questions you may have.

Thanks, @hobo - we just placed our order for five 5-spring pack leaf springs with Mike at ALCAN Springs in Grand Junction (we'll carry a spare).

Site #11 is up for grabs! PM me and we'll work out the details of transferring it to anyone interested.

Nicely done, Brother!

Same here - belted to the bulkhead with footman loops and 1" tubular nylon strap.

Thanks, @Wandering Sagebrush!!! Seems to really be the correct mount - almost seems silly to mount it below the nightstand drawer now... What's nice is that we can still drop the table onto the bed rails which fills the gap making a "dog bed" for the 2 Knuckleheads.

Exactly right on, Brother! @DavePhelps's approach solves this issue very well, IMO. We've experienced a 15 degree air temp differential between the closet and cabin this winter! Redirecting the bathroom supply from the furnace like some owners have done should help a lot. These two adjustments are on the top of our "next to do" list. Time to warm up that 4" hole saw! Cheers!

Learned a long time ago - we don't sell guns, ammo, and TOOLS!

Lagun Table Project Update: Moved the table mount from night stand to street side bed rail using @Overland's detailed instructions: Been wanting to finish this up since building the Lagun Table top last spring!!! Used a bandsaw to rough cut the four 45-degree ends - then finished them with an end cut bit on the mill: Assembled finished parts and checked fitment on PORT side bed rail: Used three 1/8" aluminum backing plates behind each of the mounting points: View from underneath: Completed new mounting area: Now we've got nightstand drawer access with table in place - whereas before, the mount was just below the drawer making it impossible to gain access to the drawer with the table mounted there: One and done - D approves and is happy, mission success! Many thanks to @Overland for developing the initial design for this great mod! Cheers, All!

Our daily OTT spotting record is 2. One was @Mike and Carol on I-10 westbound near AZ/NM border in JAN. We also had a unique OTT spotting experience last MAY in CO - while northbound on I-25 in the right lane near Trinidad, we had silver 2022-ish Tundra (same as ours) pass us in the left lane towing an Oliver of unknown pedigree... I immediately woke up D and said, "Hey baby, that's what we look like when we're passing another Oliver!"....

@Ollie-Haus - agree with your assessment. The tradeoffs would need to be thoroughly evaluated for a particular owner's camping needs, for sure. Just thinking that a world-class travel trailer like the OTT would be better served with a world class suspension such as earlier discussed and presented in the Peregrine video. We haven't done an analysis at the PRO/CON level - but we would definitely be interested in examining a suspension such as the ATX (designed for the Aussie Outback) for our rig. Price Point? The Lippert air suspension starts north of $2,100, for example.

How about an individually adjustable pneumatic airbag type suspension for Ollie? No axles - lighter, smoother ride - less damage to OTT and components, no more broken leaf springs, more ground clearance by adjusting air pressure, enhanced braking, and "drum roll" please.... no more zerks! ...screenshot taken from an earlier thread on "Aussie Quality RVs": ....just say'n

Got it! Makes sense... I'd be doing the same drill in your situation. We like OEM - a lot.

JFWIW: Regarding solar - surely we've all read many similar threads regarding the "output" of solar modules. However, for those who are new to this RV topic and are on their "front-end" of learning about solar modules, it's important to remember that a given module's output rating is under optimum conditions and in some cases purely theoretical. For example, the Oliver-factory flat-mounted modules on our Hull #226 are rated to 170w output each - 340w total. On a good summer day at noon with high sun angle, no obstructions, we might measure 290w. If we added the ability to tilt the flat modules (an easy mod/just haven't got around to it yet), we suspect that they'd yield an additional 20-25w. For another example, at noon today (2MAR) we're experiencing a fairly low sun angle with no obstructions and the flat mounted modules were generating 236w, this was the highest yield during the day: So, when you find yourself asking how much solar do I need for my style of camping - consideration should be given to the storage capacity (AH's) of one's battery bank, background DC power consumption during solar charging times, solar panel tilt, efficiency/type of solar controller, time of year most camping is done (sun angle factor), and even latitude above equator (another sun angle factor) most camping is done. These considerations will guide you to correct balance of solar output and battery bank storage capacity for a given style of camping. A given system will behave totally differently while boon docking during an Alaskan summer as compared to the same time of year in the Rockies. There's many YouTube presentations regarding this calculation that can be found to help solve anyone's particular solar/battery size needs. The below video could be a good start for a someone new to solar:

@jd1923 - Hey, John; just curious, will you need to replace your front Furrion 30amp receptacle as well? If so, why? We’ve got the same one as yours and wondering if it may fail also…

...glad there's no fee for our furry companions, these rallies could start getting expensive! WOOF! 🤪

That's good to know, Steve - thanks for posting!

Yup, that's a pretty good deal on the bundle:

We received ours on Wednesday - concur with the above assessments, well worth the price point... IMO Cheers!

That's a very helpful report, @MobileJoy - thanks for sharing that data. It matches very closely to our DC consumption profile. We're currently staying in northern NM near Taos where "after sunset temps" dip to mid-20's overnight. Not using available shore shorepower, we're running the furnace, fridge, and WH continuously at night off our BB battery bank. Checking street side compartment temp (our coldest, excluding the "Garage") read 52F at 0330. Daytime temps are in the balmy mid-50's. This is what we call, "3rd Season Camping" - cold but not in the single digit realm. FYI: Our SOC last night before hitting the rack was 92% after a full day of rather low sun angle shine and wall-to-wall sun (no clouds) - pulling a MAX of 185w from the 340w available modules mounted flat up top. This morning, at coffee/Kahlua time, our SOC started at 62% - not bad considering 3 major systems running all night. It's 0740 now (an hour later), and with early sun - the SOC is now 68%. With these conditions, I expect to return to Casablanca this PM and discover very close to 100% SOC. More backcountry skiing with the 2 Knuckleheads - will provide SITREP afterwards... Cheers, ALL!

Concur, 100%. The only time we select the 12v mode on the fridge is when towing. As we're setting up at the end of a haul, a key element of the checklist is to set the fridge into the gas mode - and it stays there until the next departure.