topgun2

Go to THIS Oliver site and fill out the form. Obviously this will get you into contact with the Oliver Sales team, but, they really do not EVER pressure you. Via this form they will put you into contact with an Oliver owner near you for either discussion and/or a visit. Bill

RV magazine has just released their "Guide to Towing" in the latest issue (June, 2021). Try looking HERE for a start. Bill

I'd be surprised if there wasn't already a strong enough floor there already given that there is a porcelain toilet sitting there whose weight is probably fairly similar to that of the composting toilet. However, it never hurts to check! Bill

These "new" lights actually look fairly similar to the "old" ones. The main difference is that instead of being turned on and off via a external switch on the wall, you simply reach over and touch the lens of the light and it comes on. Touch it again and it goes off. Nice feature in that most of the lights will work independent of the others. In my case, if I turn on the "kitchen" lights, actually two will come on - the one over the sink and the one over the cook top stove. With the new lights you can turn each of these on/off individually. From Oliver's perspective this change was a win-win. Apparently wiring was simplified, a second switch panel was done away with (both of which saved time and effort in production) and the owners got more choices as to which lights could be turned on/off at any given time. Sorry, but, I don't have a source but I'm sure that it should not be too hard to find. Bill

Maybe at the next non-non rally (aka real rally or Oliver rally or ....) we can arrange a intro to fly fishing? Its really not that hard - ask ShallowGal! Remember - trout don't live in ugly places (for the most part). Bill

I do this virtually every year. Some of the best trout streams and lakes require a backpack. The way I figure it - if I'm going to hike four or more miles into a spot, fish all day and then hike another five or so miles back out, why not just take the tent and sleeping bag with me? I can be a bit more relaxed as to the time I get to the trailhead, hike in, set up camp all in a relaxed manner. Fish a bit in the afternoon and/or evening and get a good night's sleep. The next day I can fish in the morning, pack up camp and take a relaxing stroll back out - or, decide to stay another night or two if it suits me. No crowds, no hurry, fish that rarely (if ever) see an artificial fly and nature. For me, it doesn't get much better than that. Bill

There was a time when there were more Ollies in North Carolina than any other State. However, I certainly don't think that is the case anymore. Steve & Cindy - welcome. It will not be too long now until you are a full card carrying member of the Family! BIll

Ralph - I happen to know that Patriot had many of the symptoms you are describing with his kitchen lights. You may want to send him a PM (private message) in this regard. Bill

Is THAT why you seem to like that stuff?😂

Really a nice front end on that truck. Is that price for real?

Yes, this is basically correct - the "star wheels" are used even on the self adjusting models to "snug up" the brakes after servicing (usually the bearings) but the self adjusters should still work even if this set is not followed - its just that braking performance will be reduced until one has backed up enough times for the self adjusters to do the magic. The rubber plugs indeed may be missing but they do help keep un-wanted things out of the area and suspect that is why some engineer put them there in the first place - I always replaced mine when/if they disappear. I've had many campers and boat trailers over the years that have had self adjusting brakes and have NEVER had issues with any of them. Particularly with trailers that are routinely driven/towed over 5,000 miles per year and with boat trailers that routinely see water, bearing service at least once per year is necessary. Because of this I have always cleaned/serviced the brakes at the same time and I suspect that is the reason they have always performed well for me. Of course, on the other hand, I could just be one lucky dude. I'm not surprised that this manual process works - that is how it was designed. However, even though the process of lubing the EZ Flex system is simple, doesn't take much time, is not really labor intensive, nor, does it require any special skill, I still find myself reluctant to do it. This same thing would apply (at least in my case) to manually adjusting the brakes. I'd prefer to make sure that the self-adjusting system is working properly once per year when I have the hubs off anyway versus keeping track of my brake mileage, getting under the Ollie and spinning star wheels. Different strokes for different folks I guess. Bill

Yes, it is But those 17 years cicadas are driving me crazy!

But I thought that Maverick was nothing without Goose. Or, was that something else? In my experience, locking gas caps are much like "locking" anything else. A person that REALLY wants your stuff is going to get it. However, for the more casual thief it just might cause them to move on to an easier target. And, it gives the owner a bit of peace of mind knowing that they have done something to help their cause. In this regard, I recently installed front and rear "dash cameras" - at least I'll know what they looked like when they take my stuff.

Well, they (drum brakes) are inferior in some (even perhaps most) circumstances. Repair is one area where disks are much easier to work on. In "performance" situations disk brakes are also superior. If I was doing a bunch of hills or needing my brakes to be applied for relative long periods of time then disk brakes are much better. But, having said this it does not necessarily mean that drum brakes are junk from the standpoint of - do they get the job of stopping the vehicle done. I believe that while drum brakes are not the most elegant nor the newest or greatest technology, they still get the basic job done - i.e. they stop the trailer (assuming that the maintenance factors pointed out above are good). If I had the choice of drum versus disk brakes - I'd take the disks every time. But that is not to say that drum brakes are junk. Bill

The "easy" way to tell is to take a look at the back of the drum. If there is a rubber plug take it out and look for a "wheel" on the inside of the drum that can be turned (via the notches in the wheel). Turn it one way and the brakes tighten while turning it the other way loosen the brakes. These are manually adjusted brakes. Since I'm hull number 117 and you (Mike) are fairly close, I'd guess that you have the same brakes as I do - self adjusting. Basically these brakes adjust each time you drive the Oliver in reverse. These are not as finely tuned as the current Dexter "never adjust brakes", but, generally they do a good job. This is particularly so if during your annual wheel bearing job the brakes are adjusted properly when you hub is put back on. Right after this annual job your first few stops just might be a bit lacking in stopping power - that is because you probably haven't backed up the Ollie enough times yet in order to allow the self-adjusting mechanism to full work its magic yet. As long as the big magnet inside the drum is still good, the magnet is getting power, and, you have reasonably good brake lining, you should be able to get more that reasonable stopping power from drum brakes under "normal" circumstances. Yes, this is arguably ancient technology. Yes, disk brakes are easier to service and can provide more consistent and reliable stopping power under a broader array of circumstances. But, properly serviced drum brakes have proved to be a reliable source of stopping power for many years on many vehicles and trailers. Bill

Yep - I can make a bunch of trips to the grocery store (2.5 miles round trip), to Lowes (7 miles round trip), or even WalMart (8 miles round trip) before I start to be concerned about that large gas tank in the truck getting below half full. I do feel a bit sorry for those that do not have as much choice as we do regarding how and when they must use their vehicle. This evening's local news still said that upwards of 70% of the gas stations in the Asheville area are without gas. But, by early next week things should be greatly improved. Bill

Today (Friday May 14) two of the three gas stations nearest my home did not have gas. However, yesterday all three had gas at least for part of the day. News reports tell us that the pipeline that was shut down is now fully functional. Therefore, once the "panic" stops and once there are enough fuel delivery drivers to deliver the product from the pipeline terminal to the individual stations, everything should return to "normal". Bill

I don't believe that for most of us the larger bulldog is necessary at all. However, I do agree with JD that the "newer" Andersen is a good improvement from the previous designs. I've owned at least two of the previous designs and having the current one both prevents water from getting into the anti-sway system (thus helping to prevent that "nasty Spawn of Satan" noise) AND from allowing the friction cone material from coming out of the top of the assembly. I also agree that it is well worth the $100 that Andersen wants for the upgrade. An added bonus is that Andersen doesn't want your old housing back. This means that you have now got a really nice door stop too. 😊 Bill

Yep - some SERIOUS JB Weld! That certainly is one nasty break - NOT a crack as I had first heard.

E6000

Liana - Most broken mirrors are a result of either leaving the door unlocked while in transit or in applying too much torque to the frame of the door while opening/closing it (i.e. opening the door from the top or bottom thereby twisting the frame or slamming the door against the dinette seat when opening. In any case - instead of going to a local glass shop for a replacement, I'd call Oliver Service and ask what they want for a replacement - it could save you some money. Good luck! Bill

Not "Duck" tape?😉

From my experience with other weight distribution hitches, I'd say you are right. However, even the Andersen can be a PITA upon occasion. Bill

Patwv - Get some help if you can't seem to figure it out. It really should not be that hard. With regards to the "spring loaded piece" - try a shot of WD40 in that pivot and spring area to make it work a bit smoother. And while you're at it a bit of "dry" lube around the entire collar area to make it work more smoothly would not be a bad idea either. Keep at it - it should get easier. Bill

If you think that you need that sledge then simply look for another way to get the job done. It really shouldn't be that hard. Unfortunately, the times I most remember where difficulties occurred were when I was in a rush and/or when the conditions were not ideal - swarms of mosquitos, heavy rain, etc. Bill p.s. A hitch pin like THIS ONE makes removal and insertion of the whale tail a bunch easier too.