topgun2

Neil - Go to Travel Trailers in the blue banner above, then go to the bottom of the page under Oliver University. Next click on Legacy Elite II, find your model (2019 models are first up on the list) and click on that model. Under the index will be a list of items to include plumbing and under that you will find the page where the plumbing schematic is located. Bill p.s. I just noticed that your Oliver is a 2016. There is no schematic in that owner's manual. However, while there have been some "slight" changes, the schematic for the 2019's is really not all that different from the 2016 model. At least it should give you a good general idea of what is where.

Yes, those screens are designed to be left in place year round. Bill

Trainman - Yes, that small circular bubble level is the only one that comes with a new Oliver. A number of companies make those small stick on levels - Camco is the only one that I can think of off the top of my head - https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-8525-08525-Graduated-Level/dp/B000AA4RWM/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=RV+bubble+vevels&qid=1561469319&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spell But, as I remember, the little ones available at Walmart are cheaper than these and do the job. Bill p.s. I got the ones that are white so that they don't stand out too much.

Spike - I too am a BIG fan of dielectric grease. A couple of times a I take a "Q-tip" and clean out both the truck and pigtail connection areas. Then using another "Q-tip" I lightly coat each contact with grease. Never a water problem. Bill

SG - I do like the fact that your idea serves double duty - holds the shoe bag AND you can use the hooks on the outside of the door for hats/jackets. Did you secure the shoe holder on the inside of the closet so that it doesn't flop around in there or when you open the door? Bill

I assume that you are talking about the little circular level that is located at the top of the tongue jack. I don't know what happened to your bubble, but, those levels are really not very good. Yes, it can get you in the ballpark but since it is spring mounted it can be a fair amount off true level. I'd recommend a stop at Walmart where you can purchase a set of two little levels for a couple of bucks. After making sure that your camper is actually level (using at least a 9 inch level - three foot or longer is preferable) mount one on the side of the Ollie (for front to back leveling) and the other somewhere near the front jack (for side to side leveling). Your days of wondering where the bubble went are over. Bill

deniwell - As I'm sure you already know, your only choice is to either (in your situation) is to either elevate the rear, dig out the area for the tongue or simply move. If you can't get it reasonably level within a reasonable amount of time/work then that is another reason you have wheels - move. Having said this - that must have been one heck of a campsite. There is just less than a foot of elevation differential just from the tongue to the wheels which already allows for a fair amount of slope correction. Add another 4 to 6 inches or so by using Andersens or "legos" or wood boards and you get one heck of a slope. Bill

Obviously in the pictures we can see what and where the problem was. But, how did you ever find it given that it was hidden by the shrink tubing? Was it as simple as noticing that the wire was loose even though the terminal was tight or did you find it via a multimeter or something else? Bill

Hobo - I like the looks of that one. I'm still using a "cap" on my pigtail and have never had problems with moisture. However, the cord must still be draped over the tongue or between the jack and the propane tank cover and the "cap" just dangles from the cord when plugged into the TV. With the product you found there is no dangling of the cap and the cord is always up and out of the way. Thanks for finding it! Bill

As promised, here is a picture of the closet shoe rack. If you decide to do this mod, be a bit careful to not interfere with the door latch and if your shoes are as big as mine ((or bigger), mine are size 11)) make sure that the shoes do not get caught in the door when it is shut - particularly at the top. Bill p.s. Note that the little black envelope at the upper right behind the shoe rack holds "business cards".

Glad you got home safe no matter how tired. Certainly it always make sense to slow down a bit and enjoy the ride. Got any pictures? Bill

Do these pics help you any?

I did this mod a couple of years ago with hooks glued to the inside of the closet door. Due to the latch on the inside of the door and having the hooks on the inside of the door, there was only room for two rows (i.e. 4 shoes). However, that has worked out fine. I'll post pictures tomorrow. Bill p.s. I also "glued" the shoe holder down each side in order to keep it from "flapping" inside the door and when opening the door.

Spike - I had a similar problem but I could always turn on the inverter with the button located on the main unit. As it turned out, the problem was as simple as tightening all the connections and unplugging then re-plugging in the remote cable (the one that looks like a telephone wire). Having said this, it is my gut feeling that your unit is fried. Also, I have no idea on that battery cable. Obviously it was attached to something at one time but it is not apparent to me from your pictures as to where. Bill

Nothing on mine, but, I have a relatively dark color to start with. I'd contact Jason in the Service department - their toll-free number is listed at the top of this page. Good luck! Bill

Toojennifer - the hull number matters in that it gives people a point of reference regarding which options were available and how things were constructed on your Ollie. That way, if you have a question about how something works or are having a problem with something, other owners will know exactly what things might apply to your particular Oliver. Jitters - Depending on your choice of coming (or going) across interstate 80 or 90. In Sydney, NB on interstate 80 there is what used to be Cabelas headquarters store. They have both a campground and another area for boondocking. The campground has a dump and full hookups or partial hookups if you prefer and all spaces are first come first served. There is a Walmart and eating places very near too. Bill

Welcome to the OTT world! We tell people all the time about the factory tour and they look at you as if you just stepped off some other planet! And your tour guide was Scott? I know big shots when I see them. Have fun reading through all the posts here on the Oliver Owner's Forum. Try to not spend too much before you get delivery in September. Let us know if you have any questions too. Bill

MarkC - Absolutely nothing wrong with Spike's suggestions. The Andersen levelers are really easy even when you are alone. However, be prepared for a bit of sticker shock as they are not inexpensive. I think that one or two other companies are now making what are basically knock-offs of the Andersens, but, I have not seen them in person and therefore could not judge the quality - the Andersens are guaranteed. I also carry the "lego" type blocks that Spike mentions. But, I've found that I tend to use the wood blocks in the picture below more often than the legos. These do not have to be "stacked" since they are one piece. If you cut these right at 11 inches tall, they will fit nicely under your rear jacks while on a level or stern (rear of the Ollie) elevated surface. If the stern is lower than the front then I just lay the block on its side for what is about 5 1/2 inches of height. And, if you keep your eyes open around construction sites, you can pick up scrap pieces of 6 x 6 lumber free. Bill

These are pictures of the "new" versus the "old" Andersen whaletails. First the "old" Now the "new" Note that the "ball housing" is also a bit different from "old" to "new", but, the differences do not show up in a photo very well. Bill

Trainman - My feeling is that you are over thinking this thing with the Andersen. It really is no big deal - at least 95% of the time. However, to specifically answer you questions: Yes - it is possible/probable for the whale tail to turn even without the chains being attached. This is because the place where the chains are attached is simply the bottom of a "shaft" with the top of the "shaft being the ball to which the bulldog hitch of the camper gets attached. Even with the ball having a bit of grease on it, the simple pressure of the camper sitting on that ball should be enough to make the entire shaft turn. As has been discussed a number of times on this Forum, the "secret" to attaching /detaching the whale tail is in the act of creating "slack" in the chains. This can be done basically in two ways. 1. unscrew the large chain adjusting nut (located where the chains go through the bracket that holds the chains to the frame of the Oliver) Note: if you unscrew this nut all the way it will result in the ultimate amount of slack (i.e. the chains become detached from the bracket) and, 2. with the bulldog hitch firmly attached to the ball of the hitch, using the front jack, raise the front of the camper. Note: when you do this, because the camper is attached to your tow vehicle, you will also be raising the back of your tow vehicle. This results in creating a shorter distance between the whale tail and the point where the chains attach to the brackets that are attached to the frame. This shorter distance is what causes the "slack" in the chains and thus makes it easier to both disconnect and reconnect the whale tail to the Andersen hitch assembly. By far, number two is the way to go. In my four years of towing with the Andersen (over 30,000 miles), there has only been one time that I had to resort to detaching a chain from the frame in order to get the whale tail back into a more suitable position. And, even this time was only due to being forced to hitch up at an extreme angle due to others parking so that I could not get to my Oliver any other way. When you pick up on the 8th, ask to have this procedure demonstrated for you. I'm sure that Phil or whoever does your delivery would be more than happy to show you. Bill

trainman - If you have not already done so, it would be good for you to watch the following Andersen video which covers the topic: I have found that it rarely is a "problem". However, via experience, when in situations where I think that getting back to the same angle/alignment that I had when I unhooked, I'll simply take a couple of rocks or sticks and place one by each of my driver's side tires. This way I have something concrete (versus my memory) to guide me back into the "correct" vehicle position when I'm ready to hook back up. Bill

Unless I'm missing something here - with that TV you do not need nor are you required to have a weight distribution hitch. As long as you keep the tongue weight at approximately 10 to 15 percent of total camper weight you should not worry about "sway" - therefore, you are good to go on that front too. Bill

Yep - looks to me like you are good to go but, as Whatda says, do pay a bit of attention to how much stuff you are carrying in the F-150. Bill

"tree fiddy"? "Loch Ness monster"? You always carry Girl Scout cookies too?

I first towed my LEII with a 2011 F-150 ecoboost and now tow with a 2017 F-150 ecoboost. Both trucks had the Ford tow package but the second truck has the "offroad" package. I find that the suspension on the second truck is a tad more firm (which I prefer). Make sure that you get the tow package (makes the brake controller use a no-brainer) and make sure that the truck has the larger gas tank (particularly if you plan to tow out West). Finally, in addition to the liability issues that Scotty mentions, note that the hitch on the Fords has a little label on it which states that you need a weight distribution hitch when towing anything over 500 pounds hitch weight. Bill p.s. I could not be happier with either of these two trucks and have never had a single problem with either one. Both were the first Fords I've ever owned. There is a reason why Ford sells more F-150's than any other brand.