CRM

They are 6 point, will they work with the cross holes being drilled erratically or will 12 point be needed to get things lined up correctly?

Well, after seeing this, the first thing I'm going to do is weld two strips of 1/8 steel to each side of the hole to hold the bolt from spinning once installed.

In my notes I have Alcan 5 leaf rated at 2,750 and 4 leaf at 2,250. Can anyone confirm these ratings?

Chains have to be tensioned to distribute weight, and I don't think you'll have any sway control either without the tension.

I'd agree with this if the bottom leaf was an overload type that didn't make contact with the leaf pack until a certain weight was exceeded. With the Alcan springs the bottom leaf is arced and looks to be always adding stiffness to the pack. Could be wrong.. Good question for Alcan.

Exactly how I do it.

I wish he was testing several off the shelf batteries and not just the one provided by Battleborn themselves. There are also more issues in question than just the terminal overheating problem and I hope he addresses each one of those too.

I tested it one month when I knew we wouldn't be traveling and It actually works pretty good for making WIFI phone calls and for doing some lite web surfing. Did several speed tests and was getting around 500Kbps. I think $5 per month to have the ability to do this anywhere in the US with a clear view of the sky is a crazy good deal. We've been using the residential $50/100 Mbps plan and have just been changing our "home address" to every place we camp. Works great (so far) and it's the only reason we haven't switched to the mini dish yet since they won't let you subscribe to a residential plan with a mini. I'll have no issue moving over to a roam plan and mini if they take this feature away, though.

I can understand private aviation being angry with the change, but crying over the 10mph limit on standby plans just doesn't make sense to me. You can have connectivity virtually anywhere in the US for $5 per month and you're going to complain because you have to be stationary to do so?

Most of those who I contacted didn't want the job at all. The ones that did wanted a ridiculous amount.

I've got an old set of D52 axles and they have 14 AWG inside the axles. Fed with 10 AWG from the trailer connector, though.

Yep.

These days, yes... I think they used to block transmission on anything over 10mph with the roam plan and you also needed a special dish. I have a friend with a mini mounted on top of his van and it works perfectly at highway speeds.

Yes, if they're able to be resurfaced. I just wouldn't ever relocate the bearings to a new set of drums.

If I'm replacing the drums I never re-use the bearings. Maybe unnecessary overkill, but I just never felt comfortable doing so.

New Statement from BB.

For anyone interested, the price has finally come down some on these units and they're now selling for $597 on Amazon. IMO, not a bad price considering you're getting a Power Watchdog and an Autoformer together in one unit. I think it might finally be time to upgrade and pass my old stand alone Autoformer down to my brother in law. Watchdog Power Center

Putting plastic between the conductors does it for me. That's not a safety feature, it's a bad design.

You couldn't pay me enough to ever put these in my Ollie.

A dead short to ground should leave you with no brakes and a blown fuse, though if only one wheel is getting power on the blue wire it's possible it could be locking only that wheel up. Also, if that one problem wheel has a short in the electromagnet lowering it's resistance it's possible that most or all of the current is going to that one wheel only too. Brake controllers also all send a "phantom voltage" on the blue wire so they know when a trailer is attached, though I don't know if the current is enough to cause a problem if there's a problem with one of the electromagnets. Probably a little different with each model.

No way was that caused by a ply failure. You can tell by the wear pattern and the melted rubber buildup on one side that it was caused by a lockup.

Yep, and since nothing was found during inspection I'd be changing out all the brake components, at least on that wheel.

Can't hurt as long as you don't restrict airflow.

We got down into the 30's this morning so I decided to run a quick test of the heat pump function on the Turbro. After using it down into the 20's while camping over New Year's I already knew it performed well but wanted to put some stats to it. Starting cabin temp was 37.2 when the heat was first turned on. The unit takes about 3 min to actually start producing heat, which most likely to get the evaporator up to operating temp and prevent circulating cold air. Once the heating started, the outlet temps at the duct immediately went to up 114 and peaked at 118 which was much higher than I expected... Took a little over 15 min to get the cabin 10 degrees warmer but from there the temperature warmed quickly and got to setpoint of 67 in a total of 38 min. I left the setpoint alone for 15 min to see if there would be any fluctuations in temps from cycling, but it held steady the whole time. After this I bumped the thermostat up to max and within 8 min the cabin temp was 75 degrees. Ended testing there since we'll never have the heat set that high, though it's nice to know it can get there and probably even higher. It may have some issues, but heating performance isn't one of them!

On second review, it's not a straight rebadge. Looks like they're using the same outside unit mechanicals as the Turbro, which is it's best feature, and redesigned the airbox and electronics, which are it's worst features... and you can either have a wall thermostat or manual controls. https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws.com/furrion_specsheets/ccd-0006147.pdf https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws.com/furrion documentation/air conditioning/aftermarket/ccd-0009380-en.pdf Best part for us Turbro owners is that the internal airbox parts as well as electronic controls are sold separately and will most likely be able to be used with the turbo.