CRM

Yes, it's technically a 2010, though it was originally sold in August of 2009. It was the first LE2 sold as well as the last unit sold before the hiatus. Pretty sure it's the only one titled as a 2010, too.

Yeah, makes total sense if it happens right after stopping while towing. I was under the impression that the starting issue was when it sat while connected

Strange that it only happened while connected to the trailer...

If you're on Facebook you might want to post it in the "Oliver travel trailers for sale" group too.

Totally agree and apologize for my part in adding to any of that "tone"... Tried to help, as others had, (and definitely for longer than I should have), but outwardly blaming Oliver and the prior owner for the problem pushed me over the edge. Would be nice if the moderators could delete all associated threads as there's absolutely nothing to be gained by spending time reading them.

I'm glad it worked for you, though replacing all the brake wiring instead of finding and repairing the fault is not "common sense". That's like a mechanic replacing an engine because it doesn't run. Was it "common sense" when you replaced the axle wiring knowing that it couldn't be your problem since your brakes worked when the disconnected switch was pulled? Glad your happy though, and more importantly, traveling with brakes now! Over and out....

Glad you finally got your brakes working, but you can't know for sure that this was an issue from the factory. You bypassed all the original wiring without doing any actual testing/troubleshooting in a logical manner. The problem was most likely a bad connection or cut wire somewhere, which is MUCH more likely than Oliver sending your trailer out the door with inoperative brakes.

Not sure it would cause this or not, but is it possible you have one of those "fridge defenders" installed? Maybe it's holding some voltage if so? Have you tried putting a test light between the connectors to bleed off any voltage? Edit- better yet, maybe hook your fans to them to see if they bleed it off?

I think cost would be the biggest issue. You could probably buy 10 or more sets of bearings for the price of one replacement hub kit.

Excellent job, thanks! I'm not worried at all now with swapping over to the Nev-R-Lube axles in the future. In a pinch, I also wouldn't worry about re-using the snap rings, washer, or even the nut if I had to. I'd just pinch the nut slightly on the slotted end with a pair of vise grips and be on my way. Nice to see Dexter using high quality bearings in there from the factory, too.

And if this doesn't work, there's one more thing you can try before I would recommend calling in a mobile mechanic to diagnose it for you- disconnect your blue wire from the 7 pin connector and run a new temporary one to the load (brake) side of the emergency disconnect switch. You know the wiring from the disconnect switch is good since your brakes work when the pin is pulled. If the brakes then work you know the problem is between the 7pin and where the blue wire is spliced to the disconnect switch wire.

The ball and emergency chains are not suitable grounds for an electronic braking system. Might be enough to operate LED taillights but then fail to provide a good enough ground with the amperage required to operate the brakes. Could be the reason why your controller recognizes the trailer when you first plug it in and then doesn't anymore once you manually activate the brakes at the controller?

The fuse for the blue wire is in your tow vehicle. Likely a auto reset breaker powering your brake controller. Have you tried running a ground wire from the frame of your tow vehicle to the trailer frame as I suggested? This will tell you if it's a ground issue or not without digging in to your wiring looking for an issue that might not even exist.

Put a test light between the ground and Aux on the trailer connector. You should get no light, and if you do, the Aux wire is incorrectly connected to the battery

Since it only happens while towing, the first thing I would check is to make sure that the charge/aux wire isn't connected to the trailer batteries. I see you have the lithium platinum package so it shouldn't be, but I would check that first anyway to confirm.

I think the noise level is the one thing they need to focus on, maybe a variable speed fan motor instead of 3 speeds too. Not as loud as the Dometic, but not as quiet as the others you have mentioned. They get that sorted out and I don't see any reason to ever go with a single speed compressor unit again. They use half or less wattage (no soft start needed) and can control humidity much better which are the two biggies for me. I doubt it will be long before all the big names make the move to inverter tech and we'll see even more advancements in RV AC units.

Without a test lamp, one other thing you can try while connected to the tow vehicle is to run a wire from the frame of the truck to the frame of the trailer and see if you now have brakes. This will tell you if you have a problem in the white ground wire somewhere. Just make sure you get a very good connection on both sides, like under a bolt.

Do you own a 12v test lamp? If you do, pull the disconnect switch (verify that brakes are working) and then test between the blue and white wires at the trailer connector. If test light lights then both the blue power wire to the brakes and the white wire to ground have connectivity and your problem is on the vehicle side. No light? Then test between blue wire and trailer frame. If it lights then there is an issue on the white wire between the trailer connector and trailer ground. Still no light? Your problem is on the blue wire somewhere between the connector and where it is spliced to the disconnect switch wire.

This change isn't costing everyone money... Those who are using Starlink for alarm monitoring of second homes are making out on this deal. Instead of paying $50 per month for low level roam they can just pause it and pay $5 instead.

Look at the bright side, it's like having nearly free DSL. 🤣

I think it's well worth the $5 per month just for the peace of mind of having emergency connectivity if needed.

Here are the brochure spec sheets for them.

I think it would like much nicer if the grey was on the bottom and of a much lighter shade.

Yes, will definitely be using the app/remote, just like having the display available for a quick look at the temp. I'm also known to lose remotes and phones so it's good to have a backup too...

I don't think I'll be buying anything under the "Max" version myself. I like to be able to see Temp/Humidity and make adjustments without having to go to my phone.