CRM

Very nice, especially at your elevation. Probably losing 15% or so efficiency up there in the clouds!

Very similar to the numbers I see from my Turbro, though I will see low 900's watt range when first starting up and interior temps are 90+ degrees. Once close to setpoint it's in the 500's during a hot sunny day and around 200 watts at night to maintain temps.

Here are the specs for the Houghton 48v unit that's in the Apex. It runs only as low as 660 watts (which matches the 666 watts in the Oliver video) which is higher than either the Turbro I have or the Chill Cube you have seen in real world testing. It also draws up to 1700 watts at full power which is something I don't think either of ours ever get near. Obviously have the loss in the inverter conversion but there's loss in the 48v cabling too... Would still like to see real world data from the 48v Houghton, though...

When the Apex was first announced I looked up the specs on the Houghton 48v units and compared it to the numbers I see from running my Turbro. I'll have to go back and re-check the numbers.

Yep, obviously the Ah is Ah, but what I was trying to say is that running an inverter A/C off of 12v batteries though an inverter is more efficient than the Houghton 48v running directly off of the 48v battery.

I agree. I did some napkin math when the specs first came out and it seemed to make much more sense to have 600-900ah of 12v over 400ah of 48v and run everything though either 12v or the inverter. Even the AC efficiency came out better running a 120v inverter compressor unit over the 48v Houghton unit, especially at the lower BTU rating of the 48v Houghton.

It's kind of strange they didn't design it to have that option to begin with... Not sure what make/model I have but it has separate controls so I can turn the fan off while the vent door is open.

I would assume that I have the same door as all the early Elite 1 models. I wonder if any of those have failed?

Ouch is right, and todays hourly rates are totally ridiculous. I owned an auto repair shop back in the 90's and was charging 42.50 per hour and was getting attacked by customers over it. Dealerships at the time were 50-55. Of course the dollar has lost over 50% of its value since then, but that should have only doubled the hourly rates from that period.

With my Turbro Inverter, once it reaches set temp I'm seeing between 250-600 watts during the day in 85-95 degree weather with 80+ humidity so you're probably pretty close with your numbers- and we keep the inside temps low, too... around 70-72. Haven't monitored during the night yet but obviously the watts draw will be even lower. Don't know why anyone who boondocks would buy anything but an inverter AC/Heat pump.

Though it's never become unplugged, I decided to check my fridge plug to see if it was still a tight fit in the outlet. Looked under the sink and nothing there... Ends up they installed mine in the fridge enclosure and assessable from the bottomed outside vent. Still tight!

Yes, on a newer Ollie you'd have to worry about the warranty, but mine is out of warranty for over 16 years now. And you can buy 20 amp twist lock receptacles that fit in the same space as a standard receptacle.

I haven't had any issues with unplugging yet, but if I did I'd probably just replace the plug and socket with a twist-lock type.

Since they're putting Alcan's on the new X23 models, maybe they'll offer that same upgrade to anyone ordering a standard model?

Best built camper in the market... riding on Chinese steel springs and Chinese tires? .

To make sure that if the generator is connected to a residential service that will always be code complainant. You can't have more than one neutral/ground bond in a system, and since a residential main panel is already bonded you would be violating code and creating a possible hazardous condition. Edit- I shouldn't have said "always be code compliant" since there are ways to connect a generator to a residential system that will violate code even if you use a floating neutral generator.

Yes, using a bonding plug makes it safer by providing a low resistance path back to the generator to trip the breaker in the generator if a short to the metal case of an appliance inside the RV or the generator itself occurs. When it comes to the ground rod system in a residential system, it is there for voltage stabilization and surge dissipation, not to trip breakers. In fact, if the neutral and grounding electrode system are not bonded in the service panel you could connect a hot conductor straight to the ground rod and it will not trip the breaker. You need the bonding in the panel to provide a path back to the transformer for that to happen. You get that path when the ground and neutral are bonded in the service panel, completing the circuit back to the utility transformer's neutral point.

Never at an outlet. This is known as a "bootleg ground" and can cause dangerous situations.

I used this method to adjust mine and it worked perfectly. Really like this model awning for its simplicity and ruggedness in windy conditions. It is a good idea to keep a spare gearbox for it on hand, though.. Mine last one went bad and took almost 2 weeks to source another. Nice job on the install!

What a bunch of clowns!

Since you had the latch pinned, I would assume that the issue was caused by the wire part that connected from the latch to the collar. I don't see how that collar can slide back allowing the coupler to open without some type of deformation to, or disconnection of, that wire. Let us know what Bulldog tells you.

Wow, glad you and your Ollie are OK! I can't even visualize how this can happen if the latch is locked/pinned unless the wire part that attaches from the latch to the collar is bent or broken. Do you have any pics from the topside?

Lol, no matter how hard I try, the only way my brain sees it is half the diameter of the axle tube and the thickness of the leaf pack. Like I said, I might be looking at it wrong... edit- Just drew it out and now it makes sense. Time to go to bed!

Maybe I'm looking at it wrong, but since the axle is in the center of the tube, shouldn't it only raise the Oliver by half the diameter of the axle tube plus the height of the leaf pack?

I used the stainless steel version of these when I added LED strip lights under my awning a few years ago. Love them.. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9314-curbside-led-strip-lighting/?_rid=6801