Steve Morris

Later, I bump the thermostat up to 71 degrees, and now it is 70 degrees in the trailer, and 88% humidity! Outside is 75 degrees, 68% humidity, and full overcast. It’s almost like the AC sucks the humidity out while the compressor is running, holds onto it instead of sending it overboard, and then dumping the humidity back inside when the compressor shuts off. Vert confusing!

I’m still wondering if my AC is working properly. Today it is 75 degrees outside with 70% humidity and mostly cloudy. Inside the trailer it was 78 degrees and 72% humidity. I turned on the AC to medium, with the thermostat set to 68 degrees. 25 minutes later it was only down to 72 degrees and 65% humidity, with mildly cool air coming from the vents. I changed the thermostat to 60 degrees, and it finally had cold air coming out of the vents. It is now 61 degrees and 51% humidity about an hour later. Nothing has dropped from the condensate tubes, nor down the side of the trailer. It isn’t horribly humid, so I don’t know if it would, though. I’m still wondering if the fins on the condenser are blocked by the zillion tiny Linden tree flowers/leaves. They’re a good six inches deep under the tree, and the trailer is maybe 40 feet downwind. None have accumulated on top, but I had it running a lot early last week. Maybe it sucked some in? All that to ask if anyone knows how the top cover (item #10) is removed? The parts list doesn’t show any fasteners. I haven’t climbed up to look yet, wanting an idea where to look before doing so. Thanks

20 minutes later: Nope, that’s not going to work. The ratchet from the end of the two receivers to the highest solid spot on the bike rack is almost perpendicular to the movement. So while the ratchet is very tight, it didn’t reduce up/down movement at all. Back to the ratchet to the spare tire mount. Now that I know there’s a solid plate inside, I cranked the ratchet tight, and it took up all the slack. And there’s enough stretch in the webbing to allow a bit of downward movement. I think I’ll try that on Thursday. Smooth interstate almost all the way, so it shouldn’t be unduly stressed, and I’ll check often. thanks, @John E Davies

Thanks, John. I hadn’t considered hull movement in relation to the frame. I figured those rubber mount pads were pretty stiff, and the whole thing solidly mounted. Thinking about it, that would transfer a lot of twisting stress to the hulls. I do have a snubber of sorts. It is a motorcycle strap that has an internal stretching component and adjustable strap. Probably. It enough tension, though. I like the idea of the eyes on the frame extension. That should be easily doable. I found the rings on Amazon by searching for “5/8 eye nut” and then limiting my choices to stainless steel and next day delivery (we’re heading out again Thursday morning.) If I could have waited I’d have gone with a less expensive option. Thanks!

Yes, sir. Thank you. That looks like a substantial support.

I know that some of you have had the basement back wall out. And I've looked at those, but can't see deep enough. What, if any, support backs up the spare tire mounting 5/8" threaded rod? I'm using a ratchet strap to take the slop out of the bicycle rack system, and if there's only a big washer behind the wall, I don't want to pull the whole thing through!! I looked at the limited photos I was allowed to take from our plant tour, but didn't have this area of the outer lower hull. I'm hoping that there's a support welded to the frame, or at the very least, a large plate embedded in the fiberglass. Thanks! NOTE: For actual use, I will have a threaded carabiner in place of the steel hook to avoid it coming off on a rough road.

I have just been collecting data from various post on here and the Facebook groups. I haven't posted anything yet. I think I first posted last years list around February. I only have 14 spots so far.

My preliminary 2024 site list has been update! 🙂

I thought I posted this reply earlier, but it must not have made it due to poor service. I think you'll find the answer by clicking on the little people icon that shows who responded. Seems a mischievous Mississippian clicked every poll option possible. 😉

This is what the old 2" receivers looked like? Wow, that's a nice setup! The tube on the right is the current receiver, with a pair of U-bolts through the bumper. (Ignore the sleeve on the left. That was an earlier concept.)

Nope! And I've searched the forum and Facebook group for any Oliver supplied rack failure, and found zero results. That's why I was careful to say "If there's any weak link." I don't think there is, but if so, that's where it seems likely to occur. @Geronimo John Even simpler would be to take a ratchet strap from the spare tire ring nut around the outermost point on the deployed rack. Then take up all the slack in the system. This would facilitate folding the rack up without having to remove the extra support. Neither of our bikes have top tubes, so your design would have to go around the seat post if I went with something similar. Cool idea! My license plate relocation kit arrived early, and I just installed it. I could remove the flip-down license bracket from the spare tire cover for even easier access. BTW, the relocation kit is pretty slick, working in the up or down position, and works even with the EZ Pull handle. Now to rig up a 4-pin harness on the trailer to use the included lights. (One thing I overlooked is that I use the rack on the Cruiser, too. I'll have the wrong plate showing unless I swap them with each use. 🤷‍♂️ )

@John E Davies Thanks for the input. I’ve had Raingler ceiling nets in my Outback and 4Runner, so I’m familiar with the excellent quality. (KAON shelf in the LC.) On the bike rack I’m using four heavy duty Wrap-It brand straps around the rack and wheels. Plus four of 1UP’s skewer style locks through the wheels. So as long as the rack stays attached to the trailer, the bikes will be attached as well. I have a 1UP license relocation kit arriving tomorrow. @MAX Burner Art, my 1-1/4” rack is rated at 150 pounds by Oliver, so I’m three pounds over according to the specs. The 2” Reese receiver that I mounted instead of the OEM receiver is rated at 350 pound tongue weight. If there’s any weak link in the system, I think it is where the optional rack is inserted into the two square tubes bolted to the frame. Oliver has to machine these tubes to get them to fit inside the fixed tubes, possibly creating a stress riser. I’ll keep a close watch on this (as well as the whole shebang) and replace with steel if needed.

I forgot to take photos with the bikes on the rack. Here it is empty. The bikes seemed very solid watching on the rear view camera.

Over the years, I've had too many USB style outlets fail, and of course USB specs change (now going to USB-C as standard.) So I use the simple 12V cigarette outlet, albeit a good quality one from Blue Sea, and then stick whatever style adapter needed into that. My external 12V outlets will be Andersen Power Pole style.

Nice save! 😂

I added the funky panel. 🤣 It is fed from the 12ga wire that used to go to the 12V cigarette outlet. Then it feeds the outlet, Sirocco fan, Alexa Echo Dot, and Pepwave router. It will later also feed the second fan and Apple TV. I ran the wires through the holes for the most direct route to the panel. Each has an insulation sleeve on it where it passes through the panel, and all are gathered in a bundle and wrapped in a wire wrap behind the panel. It is actually a much cleaner install behind there than any of Oliver’s jumble of wires. 😉

Nice work, John! Too bad that you couldn't find a 12V monitor, but I'm not sure they make such a thing. We've only had our trailer since March, and have used the TV maybe three times, and only for streaming. I added a cellular-embedded router and an Apple TV, so I don't need a "smart TV". A monitor would work except for when we eventually get somewhere without cellular service and I can use the omni-directional antenna for terrestrial TV. At some point I'd like to swap for a 12V TV, and then I'll convert the Apple TV to 12V, too. I've only used the inbuilt audio a couple of times, but it sounds like low-end car audio to me. I've used the TV's speaker when streaming. I did notice that the speaker over the closet booms a lot, using the entire closet as a speaker box. I'd imagine that a foam speaker cover over the back would do wonders for the mediocre sound. I'm using a Sonos Move for streaming audio, inside and out. It has almost too much bass for that big reflective interior. It's probably a good thing that my hearing isn't as discerning as it used to be... One of our better financial moves was subscribing to XM Radio back when they had a lifetime subscription for $485. We got two licenses in 2008, and have transferred them to each new vehicle, plus using the streaming app on the phone. As of now, we are at an average subscription cost of $2.69/month and dropping! (The router is still using the stub antennas, and not permanently mounted. I have an external antenna, but haven't yet convinced myself to drill a big hole in the roof!)

Paging @Katjo George, where in Michigan are you located? That'll help anyone looking to show theirs. Worst case; we are 25 miles west of Cleveland, and you'd be welcome to visit the Buckeye State for a look.

What is your favorite outdoor camp stove? Mine is NOT compatible with the Oliver's propane, but this is my cooking setup. Snow Peak Iron Grille Table (IGT) with a variety of inserts depending on what we're cooking.

In the attic above the emergency exit window? There's no breaker in current production, unless it is hidden behind the street side panel.

My 2023 (Hull 1360) with 1-1/4" receiver says 150 lbs. I'm sure that the Reese option is at least equivalent, although the weak point is probably upstream from the receiver. The two bikes with batteries removed and 1UP hitch spec out at 153 pounds. I'll definitely be keeping a close eye on them when we go to a state park 114 miles away on Sunday!

So far it's great! Others on here have used them for thousands of miles. I have the Super Duty model, and I added the foam fender cushion, EZ Pull, and long ramp options. After we get back from this short outing, I'm going to order a couple of sets of folding or quick-disconnect pedals for additional clearance.

Slightly off topic, but we picked them up yesterday. They work great on the 1UP rack, but I didn't account for the rear fender stay width on the dark blue one. So I had to remove the stays and zip tie them to get it home. I'll Mickey Mouse something together for the weekend, and meanwhile, there are a set of fat tire adaptors on the way from 1UP. The bikes didn't move over railroad tracks or bad Ohio roads on the 18 mile trip home. Today I'll move the rack to the Oliver and try out my Reese bumper hitch for the first time. I sure hope things work as expected!!

😂 With the forum software auto-censoring the park's name, I just *had* to investigate. For those curious, the word is a name for a sex toy explicitly phallic in appearance. Think, Waldo, and you're on the right track... I'm guessing that it was named for someone with an unfortunate surname. There should be a link to the park here Absolutely stunning scenery and photos!

That is on the OTT bike rack. I removed the aluminum 1-1/4" receiver, and drilled new holes for this one. I have the 1UP Super Duty Double rack, which requires 2". I inserted a thin tough plastic pad between the hitch and the crossbar.