Steve Morris

Paging @John Dorrer

@rich.dev I guess you need to be a member of that Facebook group to view the post. She says: ” Hull #1216 “Ollie Belle” I just completed the Elfa closet project and wanted to share because I’m relieved to be done with it LOL! I went with the X-Narrow because I tried the Narrow and it gave me less room for hanging coats. I’m a coat/sweatshirt hoarder so I wanted to split the space. If you go with the X-Narrow, you have 10” +/- wide of a container and 10” +/- wide of hanging space or “other” space. If you decide on Elfa, you have a handful of configurations for drawer combinations. You’ll absolutely want a 3-runner drawer in the bottom for long term storage because you can’t pull it out, you have to remove drawers above to get to the items, no biggie. I duct taped a piece of styrofoam to create a “shim” at the bottom so it’ll stay in place. I also cut a pool noodle and added it to the clothes rod just for a “shim”. The telescopic ladder is beside it. You also have space for an additional container below the clothes if needed but there’s lots you can do with the space split in half. Others have the Narrow collection which is 14” wide.”

Ours, too. Then, just to show off, he brought his harem! Turn about is fair play. This one wanted in. We only saw this one once, but hear them frequently. Little Green Herons have been nesting in the trees in our yard the past few years. Four fledglings lines up nicely for me. And Screech Owls keep coming to check out the nesting box, but never stick around long enough to build a nest.

That looks pretty useful! For additional ideas, there's a place called Katy's Casita Closets that makes the rounds at fiberglass rallies, installing closet inserts. And here's a link to the Oliver Facebook group, where a lady used Elfa baskets in her closet. These look interesting, too. https://www.facebook.com/groups/OllieOwners/posts/1320869994984785/?__cft__[0]=AZUYzaw7itmIpwTl-fIsYD1PrXn88-adduelPhPaNGvVh31UKWdEHCPD2RMyfcl__eZj2wRX3oRL0ZTuu82-3R5xNtPz3PK1ZClQeTY4VOzEdEgjcwFxRB0IC6ahDmL5pIkR5o4f_THtV4mBO0KW0CiH71rjGcU5pASc6AJ3LTwMF8L6p-7DgR_PF-g-j7oMtRg&__tn__=%2CO%2CP-R

Oh, I missed that it was an insert! I thought you guys were having the inside machined out. Thanks for the clarification. I'd be pushing load limit with the bikes we're looking at: 47 pound 1Up rack 56 pound bike A 53 pound bike B 156 pound total Kent Harriss created a custom mount for his 1Up, but I can't find the photos I saw a while back. I've messaged him on Facebook for some photos.

In thinking about this a bit more, I realized that permanently bolting the rack to the top of the bumper, the front basket (an idea I had a couple of days ago) or to teh back of the rear bumper as shown above, all preclude using the bike rack on my Land Cruiser when I don't have the trailer. So, I'm abandoning those options. However, using the 2" steel receiver reducing sleeve (shown two posts up) in place of the Oliver 1-1/4" still seems like a better option than reworking the supplied receiver. Does anyone see a negative of this direction? Thanks!

That's what I was initially looking at, based on the reputation. But I got to looking at reviews on various sites, and found that they fail just as fast as the cheap pumps. I figured I can get three times the life from three $70 pumps as one $220 pump.

Be sure to be there plenty early on the 15th if the schedule is like it was this year. Activities started at 4 PM on Wednesday. We're reserved for May 14-20.

Goodyear Wrangler Workhorse A/T Tires, in LT225/75R16

Secondly, I've been looking at the 1Up racks. One option would be to bolt the 1Up roof rack to the top of the Oliver bike rack crossbar. This eliminates some of the cantilevered load of a 2-bike rack. And also leaves one bike rack available if the one in the receiver hitch is removed. The only negative I see (based on holding Deb's bike on top of the crossbar) is that one pedal would need to be removed to avoid the spare tire cover. According to the dimensions on the 1Up page, nothing else would interfere. Another idea is to completely eliminate the receiver (either the original aluminum or the above alternate reducer) and bolt the 1Up directly to the crossbar. To do so, I would only have to reproduce the piece highlighted in green, and then bolt it to the rear face of the Oliver crossbar. A support piece could be inserted to avoid crushing the tubing while through-bolting the rack mount. The negative, would be that the only way to remove the rack would be to completely remove the Oliver crossbar assembly. The advantage would be a less cantilevered load. Does this sound feasible? Thanks in advance for any thoughts or suggestions. Coming from 40+ years of product design (industrial machinery) I can't help but think of alternatives. Whether they work or not is not always the case.

I know there are several bike rack/hitch threads. I think this is the latest that doesn't link to a previous thread, so I'll add a couple of thoughts here. First, instead of opening up the Oliver aluminum receiver from 1-1/4" to 2", why not simply replace it with an inexpensive steel reducing sleeve. They are 2-1/2" outside dimension, the same as the aluminum receiver. And less expensive than having the aluminum one drilled out. It can also use the current hardware, instead of drilling new holes like some of the bumper mount suggestions. I've not seen this idea in any of the receiver threads, so I might be overlooking something obvious. Thoughts? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074G1PBBH/?coliid=I1BLJ2Q447SUAN&colid=R9JV77V82AV9&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Thank you, Brian!!

Is this documented somewhere? I’ve only skimmed the manual, and didn’t think there was a dehumidify mode. Thanks!

I mounted my LevelMate Pro+ in the corner, above the main switch panel. I piggybacked off of the street-side awning switch. The top (negative) and bottom (positive) wires are always hot. I tried following the manual as to how to use wire it permanently, using the white and black wires in a USB cord. But after a few hours fiddling, and cutting up two different USB cords, I could *not* get 12V DC to the unit. I did find a pair of wires that deliver 12V, but they were not the two that connect with the micro USB plug on the printed circuit board. Frustrating! I ended up gutting a USB plug that fits in a lighter socket, soldering the positive and negative wires onto the appropriate terminals, then used heat-shrink tubing to encapsulate the assembly, including the USB-A plug. I connected the two wires to the awning switch, plugged the other end of the USB cord into the LevelMate, and good to go! (The LevelMate is level. The perspective of the photo throws it off) Plenty of room for more wires... 🤪

It's likely the same as Ohio, but what's happening here is that people reserve the full two weeks before the date they actually want, then cancel at the last minute without penalty. So those of us who want to camp midweek only see full campgrounds on reserveohio.com

That is beautiful!!

Not quite a DIY Modification, so I'll put this here in General Discussion. Mods, feel free to move as needed. At-Home Macerator Pump Setup Based on several posts and YouTube videos, I put together a reasonably inexpensive home macerator setup to dump our gray and black tanks into our septic tank. I know large quantities from the black tank are not recommended for a septic system, but the Oliver’s small tank shouldn’t be a problem. Plus, it is usually only whatever use occurs on our overnight boondocking drives home. Components: Kitvance RV 12V Macerator Pump Kit - $126.97 as of June 1, 2023. It did’t want to start when I tested teh motor before hooking it up to the trailer. But a couple of turns manually (with the power disconnected) got it going. This concerned me, but in testing, it seems to run okay, and is less than half the price of a JetFlow, with better reviews. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09W5NMGMS?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Valterra 10” Sewer Drain Extension $13.13 - To extend the fixed sewer connection outside of the bumper. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00303XGKU?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Valterra Twist-On Waste Valve $18.91 - Because I want to have an emergency shutoff if something starts leaking downstream… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BGHYJS?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Valterra 45° Clear Sewer Adaptor $15.53 - This is NOT the one shown in the photo. That’s the fancy Camco one with swivel connectors. This was the only failure to the entire setup. It leaked around both ends of the translucent (not clear like I thought I ordered) tubing. That one is going back to Amazon… (Returned - not surprisingly, they didn’t want it back.) https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T1026-1-ClearView-Hose-Adapter/dp/B000NCS7GE/ref=pd_bxgy_vft_none_img_sccl_1/135-4765513-9824152?pd_rd_w=YlcHp&content-id=amzn1.sym.26a5c67f-1a30-486b-bb90-b523ad38d5a0&pf_rd_p=26a5c67f-1a30-486b-bb90-b523ad38d5a0&pf_rd_r=DQQXVYARJ409X8BAT0C3&pd_rd_wg=0Yol3&pd_rd_r=2e06d500-19c7-4cc0-a074-95b6863b7d68&pd_rd_i=B000NCS7GE&psc=1 Harbor Freight Greenwood 50’ X 3/4” Contractor Garden Hose $24.99. I wanted a 3/4” hose to minimize back-pressure in the pump. And 50’ just reaches our septic tank from the driveway. They also sell a 75’ version. https://www.harborfreight.com/lawn-garden/gardening-garden-tools/garden-hoses-nozzles-connectors/50-ft-x-34-in-contractor-garden-hose-63335.html Total Cost: $199.53 plus tax. The included power cord with inline switch assumes the use of a cigarette 12V outlet. I used the included alligator clip adaptor on a spare deep-cycle 12V battery in my garage, as the cables do not reach the battery bay. I’ll make a heavier-duty harness with switch to replace the one that came with the kit, but actually, the included bits never got hot or seemed undersized. The pump ran quietly and never even got warm, let alone hot. This was on an 80° day in the shade, and it ran for several minutes straight. I did not time how long it took to drain. I had the nose of the trailer elevated a lot, and filled both tanks completely. Then flushed the black tank three times, even though it ran clear by the second flush. The only leakage was around the Camco 45° swivel. The entire process was easy and clean. This is intended as an at-home system, but I can see the advantages of making it into a kit to take along if space allows. Our first time using a public waste dump had a 6” deep, 15’ diameter puddle around the drain pipe, due to heavy rain. I’d rather not repeat that mess! With this system, I could park a distance away and pump do the pipe without everything hanging into the water. So far, I call this project a success! IMG_9250.mov This is what grows on top of the septic tank. It's well fed! 🙂

This is what I ordered. Less than half the price of the FlowJet, and fewer percentage of one and two star reviews. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09W5NMGMS?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_detailsI was also looking at this one, but figured I'd have another $30 in needed parts, so I bough the kit. I have a 10" extension and a gate valve to add to the trailer's dump port. Then I'll hang the 45° fitting and the macerator. This will put it in a downward angle to minimize air getting into the pump. I just got home from helping a friend put his sailboat in for the year, so haven't tried dumping yet. I did plug it in and it wouldn't start, so that's not a good indicator. I rotated by hand and then it did. I'll try it out with clean water to see if it needs returned... Harbor Freight has a 3/4" contractor grade 50' hose I’ll pick up tomorrow to reach the septic tank. This is intended for home use only for now. I saw some uphill dump pipes at the rally, but I don't know how common that it.

We were there on a slow day. We went through the tasting line three times. 😂

Thanks for the details, Art! The flow meter is a clever idea. I have an inexpensive macerator pump arriving today, so that I can more efficiently clean the system at home. I've wondered how many times the tank needed flushed to be reasonably clean. I'm getting a clear 45° connector, too, so now I'll be able to observe when it is clear.

After first hearing the late, great Michael Hedges play a harp guitar on a 1980’s episode of “Live from Wolftrap”, I was hooked on the unique sound! Or acoustic

I'm just relaying what the owner of said vehicle reported on iH8MUD.Someone here said their bill on a Prius was over $4000, and that's only one catalytic converter.

I installed Firestone airbags in the coils on the Land Cruiser, as did most of the other LC owners here. Minimum is 5PSI to avoid pinching. I started at 12PSI, and ended up at 15 PSI. Increasing the tow vehicle's tire pressure from the recommended 32 PSI to 36 PSI front and 39 PSI rear helped, too. As noted, supporting the rear of the vehicle, either with airbags or helper springs, does *not* increase the legal capacity of the vehicle. In my case, I removed a 40 pound roof basket and 100 pound second row seat to help augment the LC's 1440 pound load capacity. But as anyone at the rally can tell you, I probably had way more junk in the back than needed, so who knows where I was in real loading. (I basically took everything from my Hiker squaredrop (square teardrop trailer) and put it in the back of the LC.)

Reading this thread for the first time, it doesn't look like @LongStride related the outcome. In later threads, he notes having a tonneau cover and leveling the trailer. Doesn't mention a new or refurbished vehicle, though. Hey Mike, what's the rest of the story for those of us coming in late? Regarding catalytic converter theft, the Land Cruiser doesn't make any lists due to the low sales volume. but theft by percentage is quite high according to State Farm, due to the Land Cruiser having four catalytic converters. Last year a guy on the Cruiser forum had two stolen 2000 miles from home. He ended up having the vehicle trucked home because replacements are another of the zillion things with long lead times. The bill for parts was $4200 plus six hours of labor.