jd1923

Amazon links for several components used: Dometic CFX5 -- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DVLZM9WW?ref=fed_asin_title&th=1 Grill (Fridge) Cover -- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CPPHPLLG?ref=fed_asin_title&th=1 Renogy 100W Flexible Solar Panel -- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09W21FRBC?ref=fed_asin_title&th=1 Victron Energy SmartSolar 75/15 MPPT Solar Controller -- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075NQQRPD?ref=fed_asin_title&th=1 10 AWG 30ft Duplex Marine Grade Wire Tinned Copper Oxygen-Free https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B6HV5TXQ?ref=fed_asin_title&th=1 Bus Bar 12V 250A Single Bolt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D2CWHLCN?ref=fed_asin_title&th=1

We will have a real test on a 3-week trip to SW CO Sept-Oct. Soon, I will determine whether a 2nd solar panel will be necessary. The 75/15 solar controller can certainly handle 200W total. Yesterday at 4PM I pulled the truck back into our garage, so no more solar power. The truck starter batteries were at 12.54V at the time. The CFX5 was set at 25F with a few water bottles in it. At midnight, I set the thermostat up to 36F. Now after running for 20 hours without solar power, the start batteries voltage is 12.11V (-0.43V loss in 20 hours). I’m certain my truck will start fine today at this voltage.

I’m really happy with the results! The 100W panel is regularly getting 70W, during the day, sitting flat, not angled to the sun. When getting high of 75W it handles the 5.6A required by the CFX5 with compressor running (observed 0A with compressor OFF, 3.7A lowest reading with compressor running and 5.6A highest reading), plus another +0.4A charging the TV starter batteries. This adds to 6A provided by solar. The Pepwave router was also running behind the scenes and it draws +/- 1A. This particular Victron SC has a terminal for 3 pairs of wires (see graphic). One pair for the battery (BATT), Solar Panel input (PV) and LOAD an output circuit. I thought this is a handy extra. I could have wired the CFX5 cooler to battery, but this LOAD circuit allows for special monitoring (the Pepwave is wired directly to the batteries).

I came up with the idea to add a 100W Renogy flexible solar panel and a small Victron MPPT 75/15 SC. My goal was the solar energy should be enough to replenish the truck starter batteries while running the CFX5 refrigerator and our Pepwave router system. I had already upgraded the TV with a HO alternator and AGM batteries. The solar addition should keep my TV starter batteries fully charged, except in the mornings after running the router and fridge without sun overnight. After a few hours of late morning sun fully charged again. I have a spot in the bed where I could mount a second solar panel if needed. Those of you who have a truck cap should mount 2-3 of these 43x23” Renogy flexible panels in a heartbeat! I will share links for components used in a later post. I got the installation done Friday. I deleted the solar wire terminals and used butt crimp connecters and heat shrink adding a few feet of flexible 10/2 wire (left cable in the picture). The black wire pair is coming up through the bottom of the toolbox from the cooler. The short wire on the right exits the toolbox and goes stgright down to the frame where I intercepted the 4AWG wire from my DC2DC charger installation adding a simple single bolt buss for lowest possible resistance. Yesterday I thought I should trim the panel narrower. The Renogy panel is 23” wide and the standard truck toolbox is 21”. The job would have been easier if I had trimmed it before mounting it, but it came out very nice with a little extra effort. I used a boxcutter and a 1 1/4" bracket clamped to the edge of the panel and trimmed that amount off both sides, filing the edges smoothly afterwards. VHB tape was used to mount the solar panel to the toolbox lid and to mount the solar controller inside the box. I also purchased an inexpensive waterproof grill cover to protect the Dometic CFX5 cooler. They make an insulated cover for about $150 but I wanted more airflow than insulation and wanted a cover that would easily come off and on. I have a 1” piece of Styrofoam inside the cover to insulate the top from direct sun.

We took a 5-day trip and we absolutely loved having the extra cooled water and fridge space. On our way back home we stopped at a butcher, removed the drinking water from the fridge and set the thermostat down to freezer temps. It kept our steaks, chops and hamburger meats nicely frozen on the way home. On our first trip, I had 12VDC from the truck batteries wired to the fridge to run while driving. When camped we merely plugged in the fridge using a 110V extension cord plugged into the Oliver. The 110V connection will override the 12VDC, so you can have both wired to the CFX5 (not true in earlier models).

After deciding on which model to buy, what size would fit, and whether to go single or dual zone we went with the newest Dometic model CFX5. The single-zone 45L model fit perfectly in the front curbside area of the truck, behind the toolbox and in front of the wheel in arms reach from the passenger side truck door, so convenient holding cold water and food while towing! I built a stand to fit the cooler above the corner of the wheel well and bring the control panel to the proper height, just above the truck rail. Notice one stand support is cut short to clear the wheel well. There are four 6mm threaded sleeves built into the bottom of the fridge to hold it down. I let the refrigerator sit for 48 hours after having it sideways when mounting the platform. It looks very good installed, doesn’t it?

Payson is also Arizona and Reserve NM is a treasure! We got our first monsoon Thursday night after 10 months NO rain. We're hoping Monsoon Season goes long this year since it started late. I PM'd Ray with some ideas like calling this guy: https://lasvegas.craigslist.org/aos/d/henderson-brakes-more-we-come-to-you/7874395585.html I meant that if I can fix your brakes quickly, so can ANY decent auto mechanic. You really do not want to get on a public highway without trailer brakes (illegal, would not be insured), more so interstate travel! 🤣 You Oliver is a worth a good $15K more than you listed, given working brakes. Lucky for you this prospect was scared away. Delete your ad, get your brakes working and list at a better price for you afterwards.

Yep, me too which is great. No sense liking what's not goin' to happen! We like our walls and windows and all our necessary corrections and wonderful mods! Our hull is turning 10-years-old this fall. Should have it another 10, or 20, and keep it in the family...

This means your truck alternator and starter batteries are fine. What is the SOC% of your LiFePO$ House Batteries when starting attached is an issue? You really need to test. It reads like this wire is hot, connected to your house batteries (shown RED in the picture, but it's the BLACK wire in the Oliver trailer harness). If it is, and until you can correct this, you need to disconnect the trailer harness whenever your truck engine is off for more than a short break. Anybody that does not have a multimeter and knows how to use it, should get a test light and learn to use it. This is all you need for this test (plus maybe a nail to use as a second pointer to touch inside the harness coupler): https://www.amazon.com/WINAMOO-Premium-Automotive-Extended-Circuits/dp/B08D9RY532/?th=1

This only occurs when you're connected/towing and should not be an issue, given engine runing, alternator charging. Ever test voltage after your truck has been sitting for 24-28 hours? This would be a first step. You need to get your truck diagnosed independent of the Oliver. Your truck being weak starting could be battery, starter motor, ground or an assortment of issues (again nothing to do with the Oliver). Best wishes, JD

Perhaps Mary, @Roadlotus can chime in on this. She started the thread that Steve & Ma linked above and she just recently started this post where she now wants to remove the Fresh Jet after two years: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/10990-12-volt-ac-outequip/ Yes, Dometic products will use the same internal drain plumbing and most others with not. Dometic A/C products will also in Auto mode will turn the fan off and most other products will not do that. But I've heard from some Oliver Owners at rallies state they leave the fan on all the time since when it kicks back in so loud it wakes them up! @TimD like I wrote, I've been on the fence and similar to you, given Chris and I generally do not summer camp, we can get away without A/C most of the time, so still waiting... Also, check out these threads on the Turbro and Pioneer (Greenland clone) Inverter A/Cs. Yes, lot's of research required and keep us posted! https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/10752-inverter-rv-air-conditioner/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/10884-installing-pioneer-inverter-ac/

We haven't read re a Houghton install in about 2 years. There are other competitive brands today. Not sure anybody has proved the 9.5K version is viable. Houghton had humidity and thermistor location issues requiring rewiring. @Geronimo John is the resident expert re Houghton and he has all the fixes well documented. If QUIET is your main goal, look at Gree! Great unit as compared to most. Brand names include Atmos, then Tosot, all made by Gree. I witnessed @Ronbrink's Atmos installation, purred like a kitten and performed excellently! @mountainoliver just had SDG install a new Tosot and has a current thread. Search our Forum for 'atmos' 'gree' 'tosot' and/or 'SDG' to find these posts. This is likely the best all-around product offered today. Some of us are interested in "Inverter A/C" RV units that copy the "mini-split" units installed in many remodels/room additions today. The upside is less power consumption for us boondockers! Brand names include 'Greenland' and 'Pioneer' and the company name is Turbro. Search for these brand names or "Inverter.” BTW, this unit is on sale with promo code at $1200 plus tax. Likely the best price we’ll see this year or next, see turbro.com (turbro not turbo)! I'm still on the fence, but really want a viable inverter A/C which may take another 1-2 years to perfect! We just came off a 36-day trip up north, thinking A/C would not be an issue. Yet I had to book lame RV parks to run the G-awfully LOUD Dometic P2 almost 10 nights! PLEASE, just shoot me before we have to do that again! 🤣 There is a new thermostat on the market, the Cielo Breez Max! This product forces a fan shutdown when the compressor cycles off (to reduce humidity). Has not yet been tested on the Houghton, but works well with the Gree and Turbro products which may eliminate rewiring the Houghton re this specific issue. Search our Forum for “Cielo!” Hope this helps! And please keep us posted re your upgrade! 😂

It looks like an Oliver to me! Not much different. Is that wallpaper on the bath/closet door wall?

@BoondockingAirstream it’s a shame that your tech did not show earlier this week, but that’s the state of responsibility since the “Greatest Generation” and us Baby-Boomers! 🤣 If you can drag that brakeless Oliver from Nevada to Prescott, I’d have your rig braking in less than 24 hours, promise! Find somebody who can read a multimeter and understands the 7-blade trailer connection and soon you should be “on the road again.”

I gotta try this! True most of the time for most of us? Then it’s worth twice $5/mo! 🤣 I love Elon when he’s not arguing with the President. When he is, our Tesla stock goes down, but today it's >$100 a share higher than when they were fire-bombing EVs at Tesla dealerships! ‘twas the time to buy! He’s got my $5/mo!!! 🤣

Y'all might find this article interesting. It appears Ford added the Exhaust Brake with the release of the 6.7L Power Stroke starting in 2011, with Dodge and GM +/- close in time. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1490785-2015-exhaust-brake.html Ford guys online admitting the Ram having the better exhaust brake because the Cummins engine builds better back-pressure than the Power Stroke. I found this article because there is a very clean/reasonable 2015 Ford F-250 Super Duty 6.7L Power Stroke listed 4-Sale locally (grandpa passed only 130K miles). It's white with Super Cab... Hmmm? Anybody know what trans (and # gears) would be on the 2015 Power Stroke?

Mike, so is your Starlink setup wireless with Jackery power supply?

Got my email today too. I just signed up and paid $3.54 for this month and will be billed $5 monthly starting September. What-cha goin' to do? At least the un-pause will occur quickly. It would be a pain to cancel and create a new account each time. Also, it allows you to setup the dish and test when paused. Soon I'm going to work a "Wi-Fi to WAN" setup on our Pepwave router. So now I do not have to wait until we're getting ready to travel to resume service. We're leaving again in about 5 weeks. The longest we're home not camping is 2-3 months. Perhaps it's not the nickel-n-dime thing but for account maintenance issues. They likely have 100,000+ accounts on pause and without a small monthly billing they do not know whether they should carry the account. Keep in mind the value of the $50 plan. Also, if you're planning a trip for the last 2 weeks of your billing cycle you pay half the $50 or $165 plan cost (know your billing cycle date). Try that with Dish network (they charge one full month, use it or not) or with DirecTV, Verizon, etc. with their 2-year plans. I still believe Starlink service cost is quite fair.

You and @Golfnut with LEI have this. Just got my new axles yesterday and they are rated the full 5200#. Must be an LEI thing likely limited to 5033# due to the springs. Good news, my axles are here! Bad news, Dexter packed them so poorly, they came badly damaged and going back. Alcan was the reseller on the axles. I special ordered the 50.00" axles from them. They got right on the phone with Dexter this morning, forward the many pictures I took showing the damage. Dexter will Rush Order my axles but rush means another 2 weeks plus shipping. Notice dinged Nev-R Lube cap and dented backing plate. So bashed in that the drum on the left will not turn. What a waste!

Very NICE! Extended cab and long bed, love it! I thought the big three stopped making extended cab trucks. Everything seems to be quad-cab (or larger) and short bed. Love when the back door is not getting in your way. I guess you're going to keep this one a while! 🤣

This is correct, I have tested it. The same for "Inverter Only." I've never seen the need to turn the inverter off when connected to shore power. When connected to shore power the Victron MP2 ON acts as an UPS, backup power for brown or blackouts and 1Ah drain is negligible when on the cord. My only issue with no pass-through power is if the MP2 was to fail the 120VAC could be left in an open state. I have a few wire nuts for this small likelihood and your switch idea would also gaurd against inverter failure. Thanks

We keep our Victron Multiplus II on ALWAYS because we use AC appliances all the time! Also, with the MP2 full OFF does not allow for shore-power pass-through. There are 4 states as seen in the menu which can be changed via the VictronConnect Bluetooth App (see picture). The MP2 is more efficient than the original Multiplus as follows with power saving modes: - Zero load power 13W - In AES mode 9W - In Search mode 3W 13W is about 1A or 24Ah used per day (I don't bother with the power savings Modes). Since our Oliver is always outdoors, it takes about 3 hours of sun or 6 hours of clouds to replenish the 36Ah in 24 hours, the 24Ah for the inverter and another 0.5Ah x 24 for DC usage, Exterior Courtesy Lights ON and DC parasitic draw. I will on occasion turn the inverter off overnight, for example when charging is creating noise under my bed or when boondocking and SOC is low from use (<50%) and we need to be off-grid more overnights. On the rare occasion when the inverter is turned OFF overnight, Chris will try to start the electric kettle for coffee in the morning and when she gets no power she knows. So, I turn it back on using the app while still in bed! Our batteries have to be really low to use LP. The 1100W electric kettle (usually draws 900W) boils water in half the time. When SOC% gets low we have DC-2-DC charging and an extra 400W in suitcase solar. Our Epoch and Victron upgrades are GREAT and we use them to the fullest!

Ours is an old 2001 2nd Gen Cummins 2500. For 18 years we had a 2003 3rd Gen Ram, neither had exhaust brake. I don't believe it was an option on pickups back then. No tow mode either and only a 4-speed trans. It has an Over-Drive OFF button which keeps it in drive (3rd gear) and you can manually select 1st or 2nd. I used 2nd on very steep descents where 25-30 MPH is good. I use OD-OFF when climbing a steep incline where 55 MPH is a good speed to climb and it holds there nicely.

Anybody know what is the make/model of the Oliver closet rod? Please attach a link if you have one! Picture attached is what we have on our older hull, perhaps OTT changed this through the years. We want to install another closet rod further back to hold bath towels. If we could hang at least 2 clean bath towels back there it would help! The closet rod is about 24", though I did not measure. To put one behind I'd have to cut it down to 15". It would be nice to install the same model for a clean installation. Thanks!

They just changed the Promo Code to 20% OFF! The Turbro Greenland is now $1,200 plus tax.