jd1923

Try a quality popcorn product with cooking oil in a covered pan on the stovetop or outside on the fire ring! Like D, Chris is the one for popcorn in our family. The smell of microwave popcorn reminds me of the overused microwave in the break room of a tech company, yuk! The microwave does make it easy, but ours is already in our storage shed, gone. Our air fryer had fit well under the front dinette seat. More on the install later today!

Thank you @Ronbrink and @mountainoliver, I was made aware of this solution and the KISAE ATS 20A from posts you made previously. I must have one wire on the Input side off (from the breaker panel/shore power). The output side must be fine since the A/C is running on inverter. Where I mounted my box the power cord just makes it straight down to the inverter. I'll check the wiring today. It's not a good design where you cannot physically see the wire connections and the screw dia is barely wider that the wire gauge. Changing to standard metal clamp type openings would also make the wiring easier. I'll get it today unless the ATS is defective. My 2KW Xantrex inverter got rather hot running the Penguin for <8 minutes and I don't plan to do that again. This will be for when we upgrade to a new more efficient air conditioner. My plan also includes 900 AH in Epoch LiFePO4 batteries. A final upgrade in future years would be a 3KW inverter, hopefully one with hardwired 120V terminals and built-in ATS.

Not happy with recent purchase of a KISAE ATS 20. Could they give you another 1/2" in the terminal area? It is very difficult to wire. To tighten the terminals, you need a micro-size flathead screwdriver. Another bad, this is a 20A switch that should have standard terminals like in the 30A power panel. Some pics to follow. The first one is the OEM Xantrex ATS used to run all AC circuits less the air conditioner. Wonder if Xantrex has a 20A version of this? It must be better. Or... maybe given a likely upgrade to a modern RV A/C system needing only 10A, we then would only need a 15A ATS. The switch as installed will actually run the old Dometic Penguin II A/C running off the inverter. (See pic 4, it started at 1400W and after 5 minutes was running at 1800W.) I did see an occasional error code on the 2KW Xantrex. I still have lead acid batteries, so the error could have been running just under 12V for a second. The reading was 12.1V most of the time under this heavy amperage. You truly need LiFePO4 batteries to run the A/C off inverter. I was hoping to get this inexpensive installation done now to be ready for future HVAC and LiFePO4 upgrades. Pic 3 shows the switch in the bottom righthand corner taped to the top of the power panel (original cable in and new 12-2 cable to the panel). It will NOT run the A/C on 120V shore power, go figure. It could be a bad switch, or it could be I have an open wire on the input side that connects to the 20A A/C breaker on the panel. I hate to have to open this and wire it again. First thing to check is for continuity of the hot, neutral and ground, from the panel and left to right across the switch. I'll report on this later. Of course, while I'm doing this there is no air in the Oliver! I truly would like to find another brand inverter ATS. Please don't run out and buy one of these in a hurry.

I have 3 weeks off and besides maintaining the home front, I'm spending half of my time on the Oliver, and 3 times a week some pickleball diversion! The main mods are improving furnace ducts, an oven to replace the microwave, an ATS for future running the A/C off inverter and what else... renewing the entry steps, but for now it's just a simple mod for less than $20! I really needed one for the bathroom, but glad to have purchased set of two. I looked and measured and could not think of another bathroom location. BTW, this fits nicely allowing a 1" clearance for the bathroom cabinet door. Then it made sense to add one at the kitchen sink! What do y'all think? I know Chris will love this when she returns home later this week! And it's not easy to mount the adhesive mounts squarely. Amazon.com: CGBE 2-Pack Bathroom Organizers And Storage, No Drilling Adhesive Shower Caddy Shower Organizer With Drainage Holes, Durable Shower Shelves for Home & kitchen - Small & White : Home & Kitchen

@NomadLife what's your progress? I'm up to my eyes in brown with anticipation! 🤣 Anybody else want to know how this one turns out?

Just make everything "good-n-tight" using hand tools and it's hard to go wrong.

Surprised nobody has replied to this, in our rather vocal group! Full timing is certainly not for us! What would I do with a garage full of trucks and tools? Multiple outbuildings, motorcycles and dirt bikes...? Heck, I miss that I don't have a tractor anymore! 🤣 I would think something larger than an Oliver would be more fitting to full timing (now this should get the conversation going)! I'd want a full queen (60x80") to start, not two singles or even a short RV queen, maybe a king. I'd hate to move out and lose our California King (and my garage)! The upside would be having a large bank account in selling our home (not).

It's only been 30 nights for us in our first year. I've showered in 2 times (don't like getting everything wet) and Chris uses it 100%, she loves the bathroom as-is!

I have four 6V lead acid batteries purchased together 3 years ago. When I had them apart, they all read exactly the same voltage to 0.01V accuracy. Actually, with the Victron SmartShunt you can monitor 4 batteries with 2 shunts: Amazon.com: Victron Energy SmartShunt IP65 500 amp Battery Monitor (Bluetooth) : Automotive There is an extra wire that can be used to monitor the tow vehicle (TV) battery, or to split a battery bank for two readings. Presently mine is not connected but would like to connect it to the TV battery when installing a DC-to-DC charger (run that wire to the same terminal at the hitch).

I thought to be a "diatribe" you had to be complainin' 'bout sompfin! @MAX Burner yours is not a diatribe. We all want to read more and see more great pics!

The toilet area in the Oliver has more room than in most RVs. When we had the Bigfoot Class C with a large bathroom area, I had to have the door open with one leg in the hallway! Shower height not being tall enough is about the same as other RVs. Just realized why I've taken more outdoor showers (when boondocking) and campground showers since owning an Oliver. At 6' 6" tall very few showers are tall enough.

Try running without this fan. Could be it's upsetting the internal ofridge thermostat. We have the older 3-way and performs well as-is.

@MAX Burner my comment was re the stabilizer Jack being further from the edge (see pics above). We don’t need no schtinken ‘cumulator, REMCO pump Made in USA, variable speed pump, they suggest no accumulator necessary. 🤣

I'm 6' 2" and it seems I just make it lying flat on my back. I believe the inside edge is right at 76" which is 6' 4" but then the other side is curved a ~16" radius so less room for the outside foot (given your head is up at the kitchen side). I'm mainly a side sleeper which makes the length OK but then the 30" seems very narrow. I've gotten used to it after a few trips. Some owners have removed the nightstand and built a platform to create a RV king bed space which gives much more width and some length on an angle. Going this route, you lose the nightstand, seating area, and the hallway which makes it difficult to get in and out of bed.

I believe we have a replacement thermostat, not the original, though I do not know the Dometic model names or numbers. Check the picture. It's set on AUTO and has the snowflake meaning the AC is on. This mode will switch the fan to off when the compressor is off. On this thermostat the AC can be set on at low-high-auto fan settings, there is a separate furnace setting and I believe a heat-strip setting on the thermostat that is not applicable to our unit (or something we've never used). I have it set at 84 and it runs most of the time during the afternoons in the hot AZ sun (it would get to mid 90s in there without it) and will turn off after sunset for the night. When I'm working in there, I drop the temp a few degrees, AND I HAVE TO TURN THE VOLUME UP ON THE RADIO TO HEAR IT!!! 🤣

Just searched for keyword "earplugs" one word and this came up:

Perfect temps up there! That's great that you got away from the heat early this summer and are having a great trip! Colder winter yes, but our summer has come early down here. High of 90 in Prescott today (was 60 at dawn) and 114 in Phoenix, OMG, yet only 82 in ABQ. I've been running mine afternoons, working on furnace ducting upgrade and replacing our microwave with an air-fryer, and eight other smaller Oliver things! Just finished a second coat of stain on our deck (must be done in the shade of the evening). I believe you had the better summer plan! Maybe next year we meet up with y'all up north. Best wishes buddy. 😂

Except for what looks like the plastic seal of a gallon bottle, your filter otherwise looks very clean!

@MAX Burner Art, is it truly cool enough up there? National heat wave lately. I imagine it's beautiful after sunset. Running that Penguin in the afternoons? Keep having fun and keeping us posted! 😂

I had written Kevin at SDG a question re the fan modes on the Atmos. He did not answer after being responsive before. Resent the message this morning, was hoping to get written reply I could share but he called me instead. Bottom line, the Atmos runs the fan like the Houghton, meaning whether in cooling or heat pump (all) modes, the fan is always running. Then said he had no feedback on humidity build-up, but the opposite as compared to Dometic and other products. Said because condensate is not collected, but released on the roof, humidity is not created. I would say take his last comment as sales speak! I replied that I was less worried about humidity living in the SW but did not want an AC unit to run all night for no good reason. I don't want to hear it, even a quiet fan, no interest here in white noise! Also, why run the fan all night as a drain on the battery when not needed. We know the furnace fan uses a bit of AHs. There were comments on the Sprinter forum re the heat pump would come on when it got cold later overnight. One mentioned having only one set temp for heating and cooling. Others wrote that didn't make sense, but there was no conclusion. Kevin mentioned the heat pump coming on too. I forgot to ask about two set temps, like for example set at 75 for cooling and 65 degrees for heating. In between these numbers and I want the HVAC system off, no sound, no current usage! It appears regardless of a Houghton, Atmos or other choices, a relay must be installed to turn fan off with compressor may be needed for some. The only good thing about the Dometic Penguin is that in AUTO the fan will stop at set temp. The other option is to click the remote to OFF position at some point when in bed at night.

Taping should not be required for a connector designed for automotive use.

These Wago connectors and OTT also uses SkotchLok connectors which are both substandard re SAE automotive electrical work. Yes, I tape my household connections too, but many electricians do not. Your house ain't bouncing down the road either. There should be NO connections that require electrical tape to stay closed over time. Whenever I run across inferior connections, I will replace with hard crimps or a simple bus with bolted connections, and solder light gauge wires. Check out this photo. I would have already changed these but bigger fish to fry and there's nothing critical in a hardly used USB outlet. Just shows poor installation/lack of design (although in this case, the SkotchLoks could be from a replacement CO sensor). I have seen these connectors elsewhere and they have no business in critical automotive or RV systems. Been working on many repairs and upgrades this summer, so give me 20 minutes and I will fix this too! I hope ours is not like the others here since we have separate fridge and HWH breaker circuits. Thank you for bringing this to our attention!

Not exactly! When I've had a bad RV AC unit, after disconnecting the 4 mounting bolts in the interior, we (my son Adam) will climb up rooftop and heave the POS (usually a Dometic unit) to the gravel drive below. I tell my son lovingly, just hit the gravel and nothing else! Sorry @Geronimo John, re your comment, these are closed systems and NOBODY services a leak, you just replace the unit with something better on the market today, as we have ALL been discussing! Truck transmissions are another story! The "Sealed Transmission" 100K+ warranty is merely marketing hype. You better service these, unless you are the guy who trades up every few years (that guy is NOT me). Our '08 Lexus GX 4.7l V8 trans is "sealed" no dipstick, no way to ad trans oil from above... Soon after we purchased of this truck at 160K mile, I pulled the pan, replaced the filter and via the trans cooler hoses, with a funnel/gravity feed, I replaced 98% of the trans fluid. Do this service to yours prior to 100K miles. Toyo gas engines with proper care can last 500K miles, only to be compared to a Cummins diesel! Our GX will outlive me for sure and in another 20K miles I will do the timing belt/water pump service required on all Toyos! most qualified service stations can do this for you, just need to ask! 🤣 We also have a 2000 Lincoln LS (Jaguar platform, bought it 4 years ago with only 11K miles, OMG an awesome small sedan!) with the "sealed trans." I worked that service last fall. It is not any easy service. You need to fill the trans from under the truck, checking level at proper temp at the special drain valve. Use it, maintain it, or lose it. They want you to lose it, so you purchase another. Not me. We don't buy into the deep state of .gov and the companies that are only in it for war and money. Again... 🤣! Love you guys, y'all are great!

You got to get a leveling device. Now that we've had one since fall of '23 I would not want to camp without it! Too bad I did not know of this choice, or perhaps its new on the market. I like it made in the USA (even the great state of NC for you locals)! Many of us have already gone with the LevelMatePRO. It is a bit more expensive, though it has two features I do prefer. One is you get all directions on one screen and do not have to switch to Roll vs. Pitch screens. The other is it can be hardwired, installed out of site and out of mind. I have mine under the dinette where it was easy to connect to 12VDC, no battery replacement and 2 AAs makes the Beech Lane product pretty big. Either model is a GREAT improvement. It reads easily from the driver's seat. Love how quickly we find the most level spot and level. Given these details, if this was available when I made my purchase decision, I would go with Made in USA regardless!

Follow-up from Kevin and SDG --