jd1923

This appears odd. Generally an inverter runs on battery power with full functionality. There are several Xantrex 3000 experts here, @rich.dev being one of them.

What me worry? 🤣 According to OTT specs the Oliver Elite II is "Outside Height to Top of A/C is 9' 8." This is not an Oliver consideration. We had a Class A RV well over 12 FT, still not a highway consideration. ALL RVs are of lower height than the common 18-wheeler truck. Are you worried about your garage height? Talk to @Geronimo John!🤣 From what I understand he has a storage unit at right about 10 FT!

I had the older 2KW Xantrex, inverter only/no charger. It worked fine and was quiet with a simple on/off switch under the pantry shelf. Nothing wrong with it. It worked great and it's now installed in another Oliver. The new owner only wanted to run a coffee pot, occasional microwave use, etc. LiFePO4 batteries first is a fine idea. I wanted an inverter to run air conditioning (A/C) a few hours a day, often needed afternoons in the desert sun. In the next 3-4 months, I will install the new Atmos A/C which runs under 10A (the 13.5K Btu Dometic P2 draws 15A at 120VAC, more in extreme conditions). The MP2 running the Atmos with 600AH Epoch should be an awesome combination! At a future date, during another Black-Friday sale, see me install another 460AH of Epoch Essentials in the raceway under the pantry, for 1060AH total! 🤣 Then we can run A/C as needed. Our MP2 is wired to the entire 120VAC power panel (2KW inverters are usually wired to microwave and 110V outlets only). All appliances in our hull can be run via the MP2 3KW inverter. See the pic, what a beast inverter!!! We will only be at Quartzsite for 3-4 days, the first week of Feb. PM me if you will be there that week and want to meet up. I'd have the day, roll up my sleeves, and together we could get a lot done! You purchased my batteries of choice! Best wishes, JD

I am very sensitive to sound, good ears, can hear a toilet leak, every little sound in the house and odd sounds an automobile or RV. Don't like to sleep with a fan running or A/C on, any motor noise. In the Oliver, I can hear the fridge cycle and the HWH turn on even in electric mode, etc. The Victron Multiplus II is a heavy-duty inverter charger. You can certainly hear it when the inverter is ON pushing enough amps to run the A/C or our Air Fryer. The thing is these appliances are so much noisier, so it doesn't really matter at the time. I have heard a couple Xantrex and several PD chargers and they make more noise when charging. I have our MP2 set at 50A charging and that may keep the sound down some (you can set it up to 120A charging which may get louder). For our LiFePO4 batteries, 50A is an easy charge so I keep it there. Usually when we connect to shore power, +50AH is enough to get the batteries back to 100% soon enough. I sleep directly over our MP2 and I do not hear it at night. Never hear it while watching TV on inverter. We do have 10" 3-layer foam mattresses which helps to insulate. If it was still at a high charge rate by the time I go to bed, I would hear it a little. If that was ever the case, I could open up the VictronConnect app on my phone and switch the MP2 to OFF or inverter only modes. I have not ever had to do this, but it is an option. This beast is quiet! We run our MP2 24x7x365 days a year. IT is ALWAYS in on position unless wanting to be in charger only or inverter only modes.

Mike has several pictures in a mod post. BTW, two (2) of the more expensive Epoch 460AH battery with "Victron Comms" will just fit! Two of the less expensive Epoch Essentials 460AH will not fit. They are about a 1/2" too wide.

We could swing by you too! 😂 Looking forward to meeting you.

Who will be attending the Fiberglass Rally February 6th thru 9th, 2025 at Dome Rock? It seems that many of you are down to Q already and wondering if you are sticking around through first week of Feb. I don't want to repeat last year, getting there in time to see 40 Casitas and all the Olivers had gone! We'll skip Q except to meet up with some of you. I'm off work and can travel Feb 1-8. Thinking of staying at Alamo Lake earlier that week (80 miles and 1 1/2 hours from the Q). There are MANY sites available there always. Rustic sites E loop is where we would book, no hookups but large pads for $15 and if you want hookups check out C Loop, sites at $25. Love to see some of you up there. It would be a very nice change of pace vs. the crowds of the Q!

Not much difference, given 4/0 cables, between 1 ft and 3-5 ft. You can have a pair of LiFePO4 batteries in the battery bay and another 1-2 LiFePO4 batteries in the basement nearby. I do not have room under the "rear dinette seat" nor under the streetside bed since I installed our Victron MP2 inverter/charger there, but that raceway under the pantry could host a LiFePO4 of considerable size. You could even install a pair of batteries under the front dinette seat, where there is a LOT of ROOM and the cable lengths would be further but doable. I'm not going that way since under the front dinette seat is Chris' territory. She has many items up there that makes our camping so much more comfortable! 😂

Another component that can fail and adds resistance to the circuit. Most DC breakers are China made junk too, hard to find a quality DC breaker but quality fuses are readily available. There is really no maintenance required, no reason to disconnect the 12V+ to the rear bumper of the truck. Just push the Anderson SB175 to connect and pull it off when parked. I would not pop the hood to throw a breaker on/off each time. The Anderson connecter as shown above will be well insulated. If I'm working on a truck electrical system, I will disconnect ground on the battery anyway (1/2" wrench on US trucks, 10mm on Jap trucks). I did the same with my 600AH Epoch LiFePO4 batteries. I wanted one straight 4/0 cable connection from batteries to the Victron MP2 inverter charger, no breakers or switches, but there is one 400A ANL fuse (Victron spec). I have not needed to disconnect it in the 6 months since it was installed and I don't see a need going forward (we do not put our Oliver in storage). I should be able to install the Orion DC-DC with the Oliver batteries connected, given my +tive bus installation. Whenever I need to, instead of opening up the battery bay, or worse uncover the Oliver basement to throw a switch, I will grab a 1/2" wrench and disconnect the battery ground cable.

But when towing, you'll have it switched on anyway. Also, I would not run the positive cable "under frame." I will see if I can run it inside of the frame (safest location) or above the frame, up where the truck bed sits. There should be no chance of running over road debris that could damage the cable. Likely the Orion DC-DC charger would be fine connecting with engine ON or OFF. It allows input up to 17V and should have the internal protection to be connected to a running alternator, pushing 50 amps at 14.2V. That being said, I would always have the engine off when connecting. This way the Orion would first be connected at a lower voltage (12.6V lead acid truck battery) and without immediate extra amperage to manage. The charger would wake up, take readings, become ready, and very likely would not start charging until after the truck is started, alternator generating considerable amperage at higher voltage. I always turn the engine off anyway when hitching the trailer once the hitch ball is where it needs to be. I don't like diesel noise and fumes while connecting and with the addition of a DC-DC charger, there is just one more cable to connect!

Yeah, but so do the positive connections to the truck starter and alternator, and there are no fuses for protection in those circuits. That's why the first step in most auto service procedures is to disconnect battery ground. Only mechanic working on my truck, has been and will be me. 🤣 I want things up and ready vs. having switches under the hood or worse under the streetside bed! (or even the dinette.) I don't mind the additional parasitic draw when chargers are on standby (I'll have 4 always ON, the MP2, two MPPT SCs and soon the Orion). The Anderson Environmental Boot is enough protection for me.

Must be close enough. If you're running 4/0 wire, which is over-engineered unless you're running A/C on inverter, you are more than OK for a few feet. I would put extra batteries dead center under the pantry. I have our Victron Mp2 Inverter-Charger just 4.5 ft (1.4M) from our Epoch 600AH LiFePO4 batteries and all DC runs are connected directly to the MP2. I could simply add another battery, say an Epoch 460AH and install it under the pantry. The terminals would be only 2 ft from our inverter connection which would make it closer than the 600AH in our battery bay, NP! Hey JD, when you have time, let's talk about your upcoming trip to AZ. Looking forward to seeing you when you get to the great Southwest!

Is a switch needed in the DC-DC charger installation? I'm going with fuses vs. breakers. Is it OK to merely connect and disconnect the Anderson SB175 pole connector at the truck-trailer connection? I would assume engine off would be better when connecting, starter battery present of course but not the extra current of a running alternator. When the connection is open the Orion DC-DC charger should go into a sleep state. This is how the the Victron MPPT SC works. It's always wired ON. The app shows zero voltage and current until I plug in the solar suitcase. I'm hoping to leave it wired ON. I purchased the environmental boots pictured above which keep the Anderson connectors insulated, dust and waterproof. I meant to list this in my previous post. These are the MRBF fuses I purchased from South Bend: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BR4X7ZP5?ref=fed_asin_title&th=1

I always understood this in Residential and Commercial AC power panels, but did not realize this in DC circuits until recently. There are no breakers in an automobile or truck, where is my experience. When I relocated ALL the breakers and fuses from under the streetside bed to the rear dinette seat, this became obvious from the terminal markings on all DC breakers. OTT had wired the 40A breaker in our hull, powering the rear positive bus (leveler jacks and more attached to this bus) in the wrong direction. After all of your excellent feedback, I decided to go with MRFB fuses on both sides vs. ny sort of DC breaker> Blue Seas is the gold standard! However, their fuse today are made in Mexico. I found this company, made in South Bend IN, USA with a 4.7 Amazon rating (not easy to achieve) NP, I have a good 4" above the starter batteries in my old Dodge! Also have nothing but room above the positive bus that connects all solar chargers, etc.

Not for me. I have entered 3 service tickets in the last 18 months and not a one turned into a definitive or helpful answer. Yes, I did comment on the May 2024 thread. There is no solution for me there. I will read the older threads, thank you. I asked for installation instructions, the OTT service rep said there are none. I asked for suggested location of the spin weld, he didn't know. Why did they not document the past repairs they made? I asked for repair parts, no "it depends on the tools used" was the answer. I asked can they do the work if I drive to Hohenwald, he would not promise this. It seemed like they no longer have the inhouse capability. PM me if you want the name of the OTT service rep. I also have several related emails. Am I being inaccurate is showing pictures of shoddy work? Our roof looks pretty good now after 20+ hours of my labor. Wish they had never violated it. Lastly, take a look at the dates of the earlier posts you cited. This proves OTT new of the issue as far back as 2017. What is their excuse for not fixing hull #113 in April 2018 when it was there for other service? Or 2020 when it was there once again. Oh yeah, I read here they do not keep service data by hull numbers (a basic first step in tracking defects for quality control). And a manufacturer cannot blame poor quality on subs as you have suggested. Has quality improved through the years? This cannot be determined, without tracking defects and service by hull number, but I sure have read many, MANY posts re issues on hull #s 1200 and above! We love our Oliver too! (Now that I have 600 hours into getting her right!) Sorry, but my posts are accurate, though maybe not always appreciated.

Asking @Snackchaser, @Geronimo John and @Coddiwomple what did you use for fuses in your DC-DC charging systems? The wiring diagram shows fuses on B+ at the both truck and trailer batteries. The user manual for the Victron 50A DC-DC charger states the fuse should be 60A or 70A. What do you suggest, or what did you install? 60A would be better protection but would not want to blow a fuse during a short surge. I want to go with ANL or other fuse type and not a circuit breaker.

I agree with this completely but not all defects we see fall into this category. This does not explain the circuit breaker wired in the wrong direction, not the lazy cutout opening for an outlet. I would not be proud of this level of effort (two pics). We have the fresh tank defect, the water pump pulling air when FWT is still half full. This was a design and production issue for OTT on some older hulls. They should have communicated a recall, but did not and instead kept it hush-hush. Years ago they would fix it at no cost, but ONLY when the owner realized the situation and drove down to OTT Hohenwald for a scheduled appointment. Our Hull, a 2016 model, was returned to OTT for service in 2018 and again in 2020. Prior owners likely only camped at campsites with full hookups. Perhaps they did not know of the defect and had not asked for the repair. OTT knew or they could have checked and had it fixed years ago. I entered a service ticket on this last year and OTT Service would not help me. I asked for the repair parts to get it done locally, and the answer was NO. They could not even confirm that if I drove 2200 miles to Hohenwald that they could fix it! My short-term fix is a 35-gal FWT in the bed of our TV! We refill the FWT every 18 gallons and with the extra tank we have 3 x 18 gallons, for 54 total. When y'all who do a regular pilgrimage to OTT for service... Do you think OTT will remove the cover of your EMS and tighten the lugs? 🤣

I agree to a point, yet this ISSUE is NOT a QC issue of the component manufactured by Progressive Industries. It is actually a QC issue of OTT the installer/trailer manufacturer. I promise you! Over the last 18 months, I have rebuilt EVERY electrical and mechanical system in our older hull. I have 50 years experience in automotive repair and accessory installations, mechanic and electrical work in restaurant systems and residential construction. This is poor quality in the installation of OEM and aftermarket accessories by OTT. I have found that OTT is relatively lax in their product installations. Very good at fiberglass manufacturing but much less capable in accessory installation. It's always difficult to get good help! I have found breakers installed in the wrong direction (yes, they have designated source and load side), I have found bad crimps and multiple crimps along a path where a direct run could have been achieved. Awful installation of furnace duct work, bad grounds, etc. OMG, how many Truma issues have been documented in this forum? Is it the Truma product or is it the installation. The list goes on... They installed a basic 110V receptacle in the attic of our trailer. Did they cut a properly sized rectangle opening with square corners, no far from it! I have showed this awful picture in another thread. If I was ever to order an Oliver brand new (not happenin' in our lifetime) I would order one with absolutely NO options and install everything myself. This is the state-of-the-art with OTT manufacturing. BTW, our older hull has so far lesser issues as compared to the many I read here with newer hulls. The difference is you with newer hulls have warranties, given you are nearby and have the time to travel to Hohenwald. Back to the issue at hand... The PI EMS is a simple device, but often fails due to improper installation (lug nuts not tightened adequately upon installation, nor retorqued later after some travel). There is an incoming feed (shore power after the ATS), three wires (hot, neutral and ground) on both sides, in and out. Wires fail when connections are not sound!!! It is the installation! Our older hull came without an EMS. I installed this one which is the same part OTT uses as OEM. I advise you to open the EMS (6 small Phillips screws to remove the cover). Inspect all the wires (looking good? insulation intact with good bright colors?). Then tighten ALL 6 connections (grounds too). That is all that is necessary. If you find a lose connection, that would later produce a burnt wire. It's just that simple. You're welcome and best wishes, JD

That's one way of looking at it. Another is 25% is going through the frame because it has less resistance than pushing more current through the 4 AWG wire at that amperage. Yes of course, the path of least resistance. My plan it to use the truck steel frame only. One solid piece of frame steel, not the back path of Oliver Aluminum frame through the Bulldog and Anderson hitch, etc. What will allow for more current, 4 AWG of copper or the huge beam of frame steel? I do not know this answer, but I believe it will be fine as every automotive system is body or frame grounded, with ground straps connecting body to frame (including the Alt). Notice the grounds in the wiring diagram. Also notice the bottom left corner of the diagram showing the truck alternator. Running B+ and B- 4 AWG wire to the truck battery only as good as the B+/B- wiring between alternator and battery. Your truck alternator is only grounded by contact through the engine casting and then a ground strap to the body. Your truck battery is also grounded by a ground strap to the body. I suggest running 4 AWG cables from battery B+ to Alt output and a B- cable to one of the Alt mounting bolts directly. This alone should improve your numbers (decrease resistance in the charge circuit). An interesting test would be to see @Geronimo John's number with and without the hitch connected running the truck at idle. It appears the frame ground is helping and without it charge numbers should drop. Another good test would be to see improvement after adding the additional cabling to the alternator. Make sure you have purchased a HO alternator which I believe everybody here has done.

Why not contact the vendor/manufacturer for a return authorization? Ask them to send you the PRO+ model in exchange so you can use the leveling app and forget the batteries! You certainly have just cause for them to pay for return shipping and exchange.

So GJ, are you really grounding through the hitch this way? I plan to ground to the truck frame at the rear bumper, but not through the hitch. I will use the Anderson connectors shown above and have a 2 ft ground lead from the Anderson connector to the frame.

Got the goodies yesterday. The 50A Victron DC-DC charger is much smaller than I would have thought! It’s 5x5” with mount height at 1 1/2”, only 1 1/8” thick with 3/8” feet. The SB175 Anderson connectors, which as pictured, added $79 to costs. They are larger than the charger! Why did I need 175A terminals for a 50A max system? It’s for 4AWG wire and larger. I purchased a similar SB50 10 AWG Anderson with “Environmental Connectors” for our 400W Renogy Suitcase solar. Very nice product! Makes me think about heavier cables. Go from 4 to 2 AWG, add $55 on my frame grounded 65 run. Make it 1/0, why not add another $135 for $230 plus tax. Need near 100 ft battery to battery 1/0, plan to spend $350, more if you like fancy brand names!

The speed is not the issue as I just wanted to see power usage when the Pepwave was busy. But since you asked, I measured again this afternoon. This time on the 2.4 GHz band I got 105 down, 13 up. On 5GZ it read 340 down and 70 up and on 5G cell with Wi-Fi turned OFF is was 716 down and 39 up. Where the truck is parked the antenna is blocked by the garage. When I back it away from to the building even 20 ft the numbers improve. You wrote, "...it would be charging the truck battery." That's what I would need to run the Starlink Mini on the truck batteries. Maybe I could install a switched relay in the DC-DC cabling. Charge the Oliver batteries when towing and throw a switch to bypass the DC-DC charger, when camped, to hardwire the 600AH LiFePO4 in the Oliver to supply the drain caused by the Mini.

Jason, that’s the healthy way to be! Wish I could do the same. Lucky for me when it’s not after 9 PM. I used to be a huge midnight snack guy in my younger years.

So curiosity got me and I powered on the Pepwave, truck sitting in driveway. Connected my living room TV and my cell phone to the 2.4 band. Streaming a news show inside and ran Ookla Speedtest on my iPhone. The test got 95 Mbps down and 50 up, on the phone with the TV streaming. The Pepwave pulled between 0.10A to 0.17A. Call it 0.14A on average, amazingly efficient! No wonder I can leave it powered on for days. The 2A draw for the Mini is likely too much for truck batteries. Could I use the 4 AWG cabling for the DC-DC charger setup in reverse direction to power when parked, hmmm?