jd1923

You listed this Suburban model SW6DE. I did not look it up today, but I recognized this number immediately. Not knowing your hull #, we're both 2016. I bought two of these last fall, going with the name brand: Amazon.com: SUBURBAN MFG Suburban 233514 AnodeRod Magnesium : Automotive

Perfectly can't happen, but the WDH works best when set properly. Reading page 11 Section 5 of the Andersen WDH, "HAND-TIGHTEN both Tension Nuts as much as you can... using a socket... tighten both Tension Nuts another 3-4 threads." Later they write, "Although it is not crucial" tighten or loosen each the same amount. When you get hand tight, the # threads left and right may not be the same. Could be the bomerang mount is not even and the bracket installation might not be equal left and right. Drive down a straight road a mile +/- and keep the steering straight ahead for 100 yards just prior to parking. I have a favorite street in our neighborhood to achieve this. You can start over with the hand tightening... Or just make sure each red rubber bushing is slightly bulging the same small amount. Eventually you should know for your hitch what is the correct number of threads left and right, and just do that without thinking. You want to see that level line, from the front wheels of TV to rear bumper of TT. How tight depends on how much weight distribution you need. Tighten the two nuts some MORE equally and the rear of the TV will come higher, nose more down. Loosen and the opposite. They cover this in the next section 6 of the instructions. None of this will work right if your Andersen hitch is not mounted at the proper height. Start with Section 2, regarding hitch height. When set properly, ours runs so nicely down the road. I can certainly feel the difference when I tow without using it. A lot of bouncing in the rear.

Our Oliver needs ceramic coating, but not heading all the way to TN anytime soon! It appears from comments here that Glidecoat must be a top ceramic coating, besides the GCI service. I just went on glidecoat.com and requested a quote for our zip code. Will let you know what I hear. Prior owner had ours ceramic coated in Boulder City NV, using Ecocoat Kenzo: IGL Coatings USA | Eco-Friendly Auto Detailing Products. I have a Jan 2021 receipt, but the top shell, everything in front of the entrance, above the LP tanks, has gotten dull, looking like flat paint in contrast to the lower sides that still shine. Also, ours will be in the AZ sun all year long! Prior owner used a cover some, but what a pain, on and off. How often is ceramic coating recommended? Does the fiberglass need to be buffed, serviced in anyway, to shine prior to ceramic coating? I'm sure the boating crew here would know a lot about this. I can't stand seeing old caulk or wax around the edges, and ours has a lot! OTT replaced our furnace with the Atwood brand in 2018. Our hull went back to OTT during 2021 and one service item was "Recaulk Exterior." There is no need to caulk and re-caulk like this (see pic)! When I hire a detailer, I will request hours of cleaning/stripping/prepping work prior to applying ceramic coating. Re-caulk, after removing all old caulk, with the lightest possible application.

So, if an Elite I has the 7K BD, how did OTT have a 5K unit in the shop?

I just started doing it this way too. I believe I get about 5 threads each side.

Done Cooper's BBQ a few times, most every time we drove through Llano, often coming from the west, on the way back to Austin. Cooper's is a Hill Country Texas BBQ classic. If you do head down an hour south to Johnson City, besides the LBJ Ranch to the west, one of our favorites is Pedernales Falls (just 12 min east of US-281). We've been there 3-4 times, when we lived in Lakeway TX. When the water is running it's a fun place, and decent hiking: Pedernales Falls State Park — Texas Parks & Wildlife Department What are the water levels like this year? I've heard that while LBJ was president, he had the Army Corps of Engineers change the direction of the Pedernales River, so that it would run through their ranch, water their cattle. When we lived in Austin, paid our electric bill to the Pedernales Electric Coopertive (PEC). Or you could just save gas money and time, take it easy and hang at Inks Lake!

Older Ram 2500 Cummins here, where the User Manual states, a WD hitch is necessary for loads over 5000 LBS. 5K LBS, 500 hitch weight at 10% means the same thing. Keep in mind this is a 2500, not the Ford F150. Of course, newer RAMs have much greater tow capacity. Many 2500 TV members here go without the Anderson WD hitch. I use mine, not just re the user manual, but I can tell the difference, FOR SURE, when descending I-17 to Phoenix, a quick 4000 FT drop in elevation, the Anderson certainly helps, mountain turns feel solid. I cannot stand the Anderson hitch hookup and screw the OTT setup video. What a total POS!!! Love to hit it with my 5 LB sledgehammer! It doesn't help but does make me feel better! Lately, I just loosen the two main nuts in the rear, mount it, drive down the road a piece getting TV and TT inline, then get out again, crawl under again, and tighten both sides equally. Showing about 1" of bolt thread on each side works for me. I recently installed Timbren's "Rear Suspension Enhancement." They are like rear axle airbags w/o the air (will never have an aired suspension product again, never, another PITA). The Timbren have 2 heights, to use the spacer or not. One is too tight in my application, and one is too loose! Go figure. I need to call them and talk engineer to engineer. The spacer is 1" and I likely need to make a 1/2" spacer to make it fit. When hitched to OTT, the Timbren is 1/4" to touching: Timbren Rear Suspension Enhancement System Timbren Vehicle Suspension TDR1525H2 (etrailer.com) Yep, some real cr@p happened to this Bulldog. I've had 4-5 of them and I would have to hit the one on my flatbed trailer 100 times with a 10 LB hammer, and it would likely be just fine. Hookup my trailer and down the road! Some kind of non-standard use or a weird chemical reaction must have happened here. I would love the read the official report. If the current owner was the original owner, better think about what was done to make this occur. This is NOT normal use, for sure, which the company legal team will argue...

Convenient @AlbertNTerri for you living nearby! When you get yours done, please post the part # for the MORryde Equalizer they install. Thanks

Have loved bicycles, ever since hoping for one for Christmas 60 years ago! I have road bikes since then and in most places we lived. My 20-year-old Trek hybrid, made in the USA, has been hanging from ceiling hooks in our garage, ever since we moved back to AZ, 6 years ago! It's extremely difficult to ride a bicycle here, since every local road is a very STEEP uphill climb, and then you're flying down the road, way too fast! We do have every kind of dirt bike, quad, side-by-side... I need fuel to climb elevation, gears to regulate speed, and disc brakes on decent. I almost didn't click after reading your post title, though very glad I did. Excellent fab work here, and WHAT in the world is that dirt bike? We could use that here around town and in our travels! It must be an electric, seeing no exhaust pipe. Hope it's not China made (uhg, most are). If it's made "anywhere but..." I'm going to check it out! This will certainly be easier for you. Off and on in a heartbeat. You'll be happy and great project!

I'm reading here the D52 code means 5200 LB axle and the 3500 LB means total leaf spring capacity. Wish mine were the 5200 axles for 12" brakes vs the 10" mounted on the lighter axles. This is good news for you! If you still want to check the backside of one of your wheels, just look right where the axle connects, closest to the wheel, to the brake backing plate. In a circle close to and around the axle, you should see 5 bolts in a pentagon shape (given yours are 5200 LB) or 4 bolts in a small square pattern for the 3500s. Or post a pic here if you want a dozen more opinions! 🤣

It's easier to just look at the back of the trailer wheel. If it has 4 bolts to the brake backing plate, it's a 3500 LB axle, 5 bolts then it's a 5200 LB axle!

All those with 5200 LB axles (5-bolt axles), adding the 2000 LB rated Alcan springs will practically have a new GTWR (Gross Trailer Weight Rating) of 8000 LBS. I used the term "practically" since legally the GTWR is still 7000 LB. The brakes on these are also larger diameter for better braking. One could argue, can the OTT frame carry more than 7K LBS and I would think so. Most of us will still be under 7K LBS regardless. Those with 3500 LB axles (4-bolt axles) the GTWR will still be 7000 since the axle will be the limiting factor. Regardless of axle type, all other factors being equal, 8K is 14% stiffer than 7K. Anybody into a suspension performance improvement, would look to go 10-20% stiffer. Of course, Mike at Alcan would state the 4-leaf design is minimal. Keep your tires down to the proper PSI for your tire size and load and these springs should be what any of us want for a reliable upgrade.

OMG, I've seen a lot of automotive failures, but NEVER one of this kind! The Bulldog ("think Bulldog" means strength) should be an extremely strong hardened steel connection. I've towed 30 some trailers in my lifetime and NEVER would I contemplate this kind if occurrence! 🤕 Trailer hitches have issues, but NEVER of this kind! I'm a Mechanical Engineer with over 45 years of automotive restoration experience. This of course, is NOT, not right. This pisses me off! It appears that somehow you came out of this OK... Thank God, and God bless you and yours! You purchased a relatively new OTT, and tG your OTT did not break away and end up upside down in a ditch! You have a strong liability claims again OTT, Bulldog, and perhaps other parties. Not only should you not move, for a replacement, for a welder, or absolutley anything else. You have already good pics here but take another 100 pics at every possible angle. If your Oliver is insured, file a claim asap. And if so, don't touch ANYTHING. From our family to yours, God Bless you and yours! You must have good Charma, because without it... you would not be writing about this but instead living the reality of this disaster.

Yep, 35 PSI is the minimum, according to the Michelin spec e the tires on most of our trailers. Being a doubting engineer, I never go with min or max. So not 35 and certainly not 80!!! The next step up is 40, since these tables generally have 5 PSI increments. 40 PSI is a VERY GOOD number, per the spec, and would be the lowest I would run. Me and GJ are going with our friend's 42 PSI recommendation. Go with 40 PSI, go with 45, 50 will not do damage, but greater than these numbers will, I promise! BTW, we in the know hope our friend is doing well. He has not checked into the OTT Forum for a while. God Bless @John E Davies

Thank you for posing this question. I had a similar thought the other day, that perhaps I need a "Battery Tender" designed for AGM, to perform a final charge. Maybe I could plug it in once a week... The many chargers I have now are all old-school automotive chargers for lead-acid. Walmart sells this as an automotive starting battery, meaning to be charged by automotive alternators. I didn't think it was enough of a concern, since by alternator there will still be more voltage than a lead-acid. They claim their AGM will have twice the life of the LA made by the same S. Korea manufacturer. I will look for a technical support number and see what specs they have. I will post here later with whatever I learn and also my experiences as these batteries get more used. Thanks again!

Did a thorough cleaning when we purchased the truck (it is 23 years old). The engine compartment picture shows the old battery. Look how bad the terminals were in contrast. Thank you @ScubaRx and @MAX Burner! 😂

I also purchased new battery terminals, crimped new lugs on all cables and new battery hold-downs, since they were all pretty crusty (see pics). The new batteries did not fit the OEM hold-downs (new Dorman hardware), so if you look closely, you'll see I had to rig some inserts to hold them tight. I went with Military style terminals. First experience with these, and I love them! I purchased this item but would make another choice next time. Great terminals, the rubber covers are decent, but the lugs and heat shrink were not of best quality. Dodge Cummins Military Dual Battery Terminals, Lugs & Boots | eBay These terminals have a 3/8" bolt end, so use 3/8" lugs on all your cables. The other side has a 5/16" bolt to tighten the terminal on the battery post. The beauty and simplicity here is that you can keep the 3/8" cable end held tight, and merely loosen the 5/16" nut to remove it from the battery. I've been fighting cables on dozens of vehicles since the70's! I purchased another couple of sets to use on our other old cars and trucks in the future, to be installed each time we need a new battery. The other thing about Group 27 vs. these H7 AGMs is the posts are in reverse orientation. In making all new connections I had the change the +/- location of all cables. The main + cable, connecting the two batteries, mounted over the radiator core had to be shifted about a foot over. I had to make a new cable from the LH battery to the power distribution box, but most other cables had room to move 10" left or right. I think it came out pretty good. The AGMs should last much longer. Every time I park the truck voltage is 13.1V or better, where LA is usually 12.6V at best. Let it park for a few days (and I have a cellular router running, rid-rat devices and more) and it's still at 12.9V. Love the AGMs! What do you think?

I've asked about this several times over the last several years. Asked the owner of our local Batteries Plus, are AGM batteries better for our trucks? The answer in the past and since is "Yes, better but not worth twice the money!" I've had AGM batteries in my motorcycles over 10 years now. The Dodge Ram Cummins always had two (2) Group 27 LA batteries. The last Dodge Cummins I had for 18 years had the same setup and twice I purchased the very reasonable Walmart EverStart batteries. Could have done the same this time for $150 ea. I searched for other batteries and the Odessey AGM came up $384 ea. Wow, like I said more $$$. In this case, should I pay $325 total with tax or $832. Go figure. Then I found a new style EverStart AGM from Walmart, however they did not have the Group 27 size in this model. I found the H7 size to be very close to the Group 27, about 1/4" longer and wider, yet a full inch shorter in height. I purchased two of these modern AGM batteries: EverStart Platinum AGM Automotive Battery, Group Size H7 / LN4 / 94R 12 Volt, 800 CCA 140 RC - Walmart.com They're made in South Korea, like that much better than China. South Korea manufacturing started earlier than China and is more mature in quality practices. Total OTD with tax $390 for two HD AGM truck batteries nice!

Nice! Please explain why the solar charge is reading at 52V? Are the panels 12V or greater, wired in series?

Our family too, newest vehicle on the lot, besides a 2016 Oliver, is our restored 2008 GX470. I drove a '67 Wildcat for a decade (1985-1994), a 1975 Alfa Romeo Spyder, for two decades (1977-1998). Bought my first 1984 Goldwing standard new in 1986, sold it in 2004, missed the bike and bought a second one same model in 2008, still in the garage, picture above. Our son will inherit our Oliver and the other many classics on the property, and he helps regularly with the maintenance of all. A 1958 TR3, wow and nice. I had a British Racing Green 1967 TR4a for a short while! I'm learning that most of us here are true "Classics!"

RVing is a lot about making these kinds of mistakes, as we all have, and learning from them. OMG, I forgot... (100 things thru the years). It does trouble me when I make the same mistake a second time and many of us have been there, done that! Just as long as it's just a little water, a little this or that...

Love to meet you one day, get around the campfire and play some guitar! Sounds Great! I usually travel with one, and always on longer trips.😂

This video is exactly the reason the shop only offers 90 days. The idea behind the 30- or 90-day warranty is for replacement of something not right upon delivery. You would be nuts to own a small business and have guys who drive like this come back after near 5 years of abuse! 🤣 Stop for a minute and try to think from their point of view. Want to spend another $325 ($995-670=$325) for warranty insurance on a $600 leaf spring purchase? Hmmm, WOW not me, are you crazy!?! You can for sure contact an extended warranty company and they will take your $$$ in a heartbeat! Why would you pay 54% MORE than your purchase for such coverage? OMG, just spend another $300 instead and buy another full set of leaf springs. The warranty WILL NOT HELP YOU broken down in Alaska or even 20 miles from home! Please think about what you are saying. This may be a very good supplier for our forum OTT owners. Lot of negativity expressed here (last half dozen posts) re the warranty, and @Mountainman198 and likely all, yes, I bet all of the other OTT owners that have had failed springs have NOT used the warranty they already have. So, if one of these springs fail on you, are you going to file for warranty? Or are you going to do what you need to do, to get back on the road. Uh, the latter. Let's PLEASE get off this trivial subject. BUY the spring or DON'T, it's a free marketplace. I'm happy to see they already have 10+ orders for servicing our OTT Community, and I will certainly buy a set as @MAX Burner did today within the next year (already put $6K into our money-pit OTT in the 8 months since we took possession).

Like I suggested, how important is the warranty? Just buy what you need.

Not fair to compare a small custom shop to Dexter. The $670 total for 4 custom leaf springs and required hardware is extremely fair. They could charge $995 and provide for a warranty. They are likely a small family-owned business and cannot have 5-years of future liability. Your choice 1) Alcan, 2) find another supplier, or 3) buy Dexter springs with 5-year coverage for China junk, that has a high likelihood of failure. Have any of you filed warranty claims on your broken springs? I prefer the promise of craftsmen, and the product looks great in the pics, more HD in all aspects. I'd rather go better quality, less cost and forfeit the warranty. But that's me; one who NEVER pays for extended warranties (a hugely profitable industry). If they are not right, you'll know in 90 days. And from what has been written here re their exceptional CS, they would likely work with you if their work was determined to be at fault.