jd1923

We’re staying with the OEM Scandvik faucet, at least for some time. This company is most reasonable for replacement parts! 🤣

Yes, call them! I purchased a brand new 3KW Victron Multiplus II for $1,100. Don’t spend this money on a 2KW Xantrex! Your model used in working condition on eBay is likely about $300.

Yes, and given a water leak, they ask for help, and it’s another few days…

Just “Oliver!” Sometimes we’ll say it the way Eva Gabor did in Green Acres!

I read in your other post that unplugging and plugging the inverter makes a noise. This and your test shows you have power to the inverter. The noise means it’s doing something internal. Time to get in the phone with Xantrex Tech Support. You have power in but nothing out. They will have tests for you to do and next steps. Your issue must be the inverter is not powered on or something else internal to the inverter. Good work so far! Keep us posted.

Stainless Steel (SS) lug nuts are limited. I've never seen them used for custom wheels. I'm not sure whether our wheels require 'acorn' or 'acorn bulge' shaped lugs. Thinking they are 1/2" x 20 and I would also measure the length of the stud extending beyond the wheel before ordering. Does anybody have these specs? Given verification of measurements, something like this may work. They're expensive by the time you buy 6 sets (24 pcs). McGard is a good brand I've used before. These are labeled "Made in USA" so don't buy a cheap bulk set that are made in China instead! https://www.amazon.com/McGard-64010-Chrome-Bulge-Style/dp/B000COMX9K/?th=1

Use a 12-point socket vs. the 6-point which is generally recommended for automotive work. The 12-point will remove easier. It is about the stainless-wrapped lugs. I’ll replace ours with solid chromed steel lugs someday.

To each their own... 🤣 Yeah, yank it out. The OEM model has absolutely no value! 😎

My replies are and will be added to the other thread, and there are more relevant pics there... I was hoping this would have been corrected...

Having these pictures is great! It may make all the difference in us helping you. Your test light should have an alligator clip on one end, clip it to the negative bus which is the one you have pictured 3 times with all yellow wires. You then want to touch both sides of the SMP 200A breaker shown in your 4th picture. I’m pretty sure this is the breaker between your batteries and inverter. If the breaker is closed (on) and in working order, there should be power on both terminals (test light ON). If you have power on the battery side and not on the other, you need a new breaker and you’ve found your issue. Let us know on this test for next steps if necessary.

@Skipster has two threads going on the same subject. There’s more viable info on the other thread, albeit it’s in the wrong forum folder.

Are all your 12V circuits working? e.g. lights, stabilizer jacks, etc. Attach some pictures here, of the inverter, inverter panel or on/off switch, wiring into the inverter and devices near the inverter. Do you have a multimeter, or test light? @ADKCamper gave you a good checklist for testing. The gurus are here. Post pictures and get a meter or simple test light at an auto parts store. It is likely simple..

When your Oliver is perfectly level, which side is the water leaking from? "Under the shower?" Do you mean in the wet bath? The water lines are in the bathroom vanity. The front cover with the opening and towel bars must be removed. Outdoor shower? Access the water lines under the streetside bed. Ours was leaking once when I left the outdoor shower faucets on. Only the valve on the shower head was holding the water. Check first that these faucets are OFF.

@CRM I ordered the $10 aerator and that was my total! 😂 They may add actual shipping cost to that later since they had a note about charging only actual costs.

Cool, thank you @mossemi, @CRM and @Tom and Doreen!

I searched, but not sure of the correct keywords... I remember @SeaDawg posting re this company a couple years ago. What make is this OEM shower head? The plastic end in ours has a pin hole in it. Thank you!

I'll be posting my stabilizer jack rebuild thread soon, a sneak peak here. This new Dicor butyl is top-shelf! It stays where you place it and fills the cracks! 🤣

A call to TST customer service and they may send you one no charge. Worth a try!

Excellent idea Tom! Great install location and repeater location for a good signal when towing. 😎

Sorry for not posting this sooner. An Oliver friend was at Harbor Freight today asking me the same question, so I went out to my garage and measured. The large snap ring has holes 0.11" ID and they are 1 1/4" apart. The snap-ring pliers I used for this has pins 0.07" OD and has a reach of about 1 1/2". The very small snap ring has holes about 0.05" and are only 1/4" apart. The snap-ring pliers I used for this has pins 0.04" OD. These are the tools I used. Zoom in to see tool part numbers.

If you have rubber, make sure to install high-quality STEEL valve stems first. Buy from Summit or local auto parts store, NOT Amazon China-made. Tire companies do not carry them. https://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=steel valve stems There are also TPMS sensors that can be installed inside of the wheel integral to the stem. More expensive and work required in removing the tires/rebalancing but it is the way the industry is going now that all modern vehicles have TPMS built-in. https://www.discounttire.com/accessories/tpms-catalog Best to have wheels balanced after TPMS sensors are installed.

Thank you very much, Chris & Stacie! You sold me without trying! 🤣 You linked the silver model and yesterday I purchased the black model Amazon used "Like New" model at a very good price. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KSNTSVR/?th=1 Most of us have LP grills too but the induction hotplate has a different purpose (e.g. boil water quickly). When you have 600 Ah you need to use it! We traveled with the Weber Q for 8 years, shown by @Patriot and @Mike and Carol above. The Q is a nice small grill but a single burner design does not allow for indirect cooking (can kill a baked potato quickly)! if you cook smaller, meals for two, the Weber Q is the way to go. The Napoleon is about 5 inches longer and 7 pounds heavier. Our old Weber Q1200 is cleaned up and I gave it our son for his camping trips. https://www.amazon.com/Weber-51190001-Liquid-Propane-Orange/dp/B00RFXRZ9Y/?th=1 For $50 more, we strongly recommend the Napoleon! We use these items and vouch for them: https://www.amazon.com/Napoleon-PRO285-BK-Portable-Propane-Grill/dp/B00J4576FE/?th=1 https://www.amazon.com/Reversible-PRO285X-BK-PRO285-BK-TQ285X-BL-Accessories/dp/B0BJDM93QD/?th=1 https://www.amazon.com/Napoleon-Grills-61286-Premium-Grill/dp/B077SLW6L4/

@Michael A Are you original owners? The cigarette lighter plug and 110V adapter in your picture look like aftermarket cables somebody just put there, not something OTT installed. You certainly want to take the advice from Mossey. Both adapters pictured are disconnected, but what is at the other end of the cables? What is disconnected? My guess is nothing and you could toss these out! The panel comes out simply held by two bolts along the bottom (3/8" or maybe 10mm). We had some items like this in our attic when we purchased used. I removed everything from prior owners, wiring not OEM. I also refuse to power anything with a cigarette lighter connection when they can be reliably hardwired behind the "wall panel" (attic left cover plate).

@Townesw I just purchased a new roll of butyl, even though I have some left in an older roll. It's hard to keep butyl, glues and tapes fresh in our very dry Arizona climate. I'm rebuilding the rear stabilizer jacks on our hull which includes removal of the jack post assemblies. They were caulked at both interior and exterior hulls. I'm thinking butyl wrapped in a circle will be easier and cleaner to apply than caulk from a tube. I just received this product today. it looks fresh, of good quality and the roll is huge! This might be worth your consideration and for others reading. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FCB4JS/?th=1

Rob is absolutely correct! Use your onboard Stabilizer Jacks! It's the easiest and safest way to change a tire. Using the labeled "Jack Points" and the trailer weight shifts and then you have other issues. OTT got legal (not engineering) advice on not using the stabilizer jacks. I have posted before what Oliver wrote in the 2017 User Manual, where they detail the tire change procedure using these jacks. I also carry a bottle jack and jack stand, for more major repairs. Hard to imagine any of this on a 3-year-old hull. I expect and have never seen tires self-destruct in less than 7 years, except for China-made ST tires. If you are original owners, I would think about what may have caused or led to these failures (two tires). The steel cable must be the cable from the blown radial tire The shock bushings look awful. Remove one shock to see if it has compression along the full length. My guess is you need 4 new shocks and if I were you, I would be buying four (4) brand new top-of-the-line LT tires, mounted and balanced at a reputable shop. I'd like to ask again re your tire make-model and running tire pressure. Use your TPMS and "see something, hear something, say something!" When you hear any odd noise, get out immediately and inspect all 8 tires, leaf springs, shocks, etc. Look under to see if you're dragging some road debris, then look again. 😎