Jason Foster

Looks like I am going to have to cancel my trip this year. My job is sending me to a conference during that time. If anyone wants my site at the campground (F23), I will coordinate with you to cancel my reservation so you can get it right away. @Half Fast Hugo I will have to catch you in Bentonville sometime. I live about 5 hours from there.

That would make for an incredible skating rink. Well, if space isnt an issue, then that just leaves the plug costs and a viable market.

How much are they currently using and how much is empty?

As a semi-retired rancher, I've been beat up, trampled and broken by nothing more than pasture raised cows.

That link doesn't work. I could probably change it to PDF.

Saving this snack for later.

Those things are notoriously bad tempered. Glad you got away with it.

I carry every tool imaginable, but still find a nut every now and then that refuses to move. Been there, done that many times. I keep my tires aired up fully on the highway and air down on rough roads. The truck has a compressor and I have two spare jacks. My TV has two batteries, but if they both die, I have 390 amps of juicy stuff in my trailer, plus a generator that can run my battery charger. Tooth Fairy: And Santa Claus: I'm the kind of human "Bean" that likes the road less travelled, so I'm with you on all of this.

Generally, when these sensors malfunction, it is because of residue sticking to the sensors interfering with their function. I would fill the tank completely with water and let it sit full for a few days to help soften the residue, then use a wand style tank flush inserted into the toilet from the top to direct the pressurized flow toward the sensor. If this doesn't work, find a kid with a really small arm.... lol.

If you hear clicking like the batteries are trying to charge and then it shuts off and resets everything, then you will have two issues. One is grounding. Looks like someone already mentioned the required grounding plug. The other is the charge controller is pulling too much power. It has to be reset.

How have you flushed the tank?

Just came across this during an internet search: This was an old post on another forum, and I'm sure you probably want to use someone local, but it will likely be much cheaper to have it installed if you remove the water heater and take it to a Truma dealer.

I love this. Did this actually happen to you?

Let me be clear. The Truma is AMAZING. Keep it. My Truma will supply hot water forever as long as I have a water supply and gas to keep it running. I've had the others and was not impressed. There is a reason why Truma costs a lot of money to buy and fix. They work. There are four ways I can winterize my Oliver: 1. Traditional: Shut off valve and drain Truma. Then circulate water system with antifreeze. (RV specific) 2. Lazy: Keep the trailer camp ready: Water tanks full, Truma on, and Gas heat set to 55. 3. Lazy 2: Same as 2, only drain Truma water heater. 4. Super Lazy: Put my trailer in a heated shop. The Truma water heater is the easiest to winterize because it only takes three steps: Turn power off, turn water supply off, drop yellow drain lever. Done.

I have had regular 6 gallon water heaters. They work fine but they run out of hot water after a short period. I have also had the Fogatti. It was garbage. Hot then cold. The only one that works flawlessly, as long as you don't break it, is the Truma. I love that water heater. Worth every penny.

Those 6-gallon water heaters will burst in freezing temperatures as well. However, they will take longer to freeze. If you live in a moderate climate where it gets below freezing at night but warms during the day with a few cold spells that can dip into the 20s, Texas for example, then the only concern is for smaller reservoirs. However, I would still winterize everything. Why take a chance with your Oliver and bank account? I live in Texas, one of my trailers is winterized, but I leave the heat on in the Oliver. It winters fine here like that.

I use a Home Depot bucket. Easy to clean and cheap.

The Truma has a small plastic water tank that circulates the heated water. When winterizing, you have to shut the water supply valve to the water heater off. This is located under the street side bed. On the outside, there is a big yellow lever you have to pull down on the Truma after releasing the pressure. You drop it down as far as it will go and then remove the filter. There is a convenient sized hole to the right of the water heater to put that in. The water will then drain out completely. If, however, you don't do that and it freezes, the tank will crack. That is what you are seeing in the video. As far as I know, only a Truma authorized dealer can fix that for you.

What if... I find the perfect spot, set up camp, enjoy the sunset and find out at around 2am the land I am on belongs to the infamous Sawyer family.

The return is the best part.

Very late for this but here goes: Ram / 2500/ Tradesman / 2014 / 4x4 / Diesel / 6.7 turbo / 3.42 posi / Hull #1460

Awesome pictures. Once I get some time to travel, I will be adding some of my boondocking experiences.

Cruisers? Are you going to single track them? or....

I subbed your channel. Maybe we can hit a few of the trails together this year. I will need a guide. lol