Snackchaser

Yea that looks like a quality product. Thanks for sharing! With the voltage boosted to 48 volts, you could run the dishy father away than the standard power cord will allow, and it's easy to make your own ethernet cables with a few cheap amazon tools, bulk wire and connectors. I like the DC modem too! We used to run the Starlink gen 3 modem on the inverter and had to shut it off to save the battery. Now it just stays on all the time without a worry. Cheers, Geoff

Hey JT, Also take a look at my other post for getting your ethernet cable into the Oliver in a neat and professional manner: "Don’t cut your Starlink Cable! There’s a better way to install Starlink…" For the Mini, you will still have to run both the power cable and ethernet cable to do what it sounds like you'r describing. The second router is a great idea because, as you know, the WiFi/speed decreases when the Mini is placed further away from the trailer. We travel in the Pacific Northwest with lots of trees so we often have to move the dishy farther away to find a clear sky. Flexibly in that regard is a must for us too! Cheers, Geoff

Oh okay. Thought you were messing with me because I have posted several automation projects. Take a look at my post “Electric valve control... with a twist” where I installed motorized valves all connected to a single selector switch. It takes the error out of valve line-ups and it was a fun project. We don’t winterize, but we often use the boondocking position, and we usually drain and re-fill freshwater after every trip. I just hated lifting our oversized mattress too! I don’t think anyone has copied that modification yet because there were no comments about one of the 3-way valves being backwards. I really should update that photo with the corrected valve orientation 🤔

Oh Yea, you're jerking my chain now! I'll take the bait though😂 I used a 4 -position rotary switch with LED position indicators and automatic return to normal... proud to say.

Although I’m not sure how much difference it makes, maximum flow is important to me as well. With all the plumbing modifications I’ve made, I did’t want to introduce too many more restrictions in the system. I actually used 3/4” motorized ball valves, and SharkBite fittings wherever practical. I also heated and bent the PEX pipe instead of 90 deg. fittings whenever possible, and used 90 deg. plastic sweep clips to maintain the bend. Every little bit helps IMO!

We were down in Cabo San Lucas last month and saw an Oliver parked on the beach! Unfortunately we were headed to the airport and couldn’t stop, but Iv'e been wondering who that was, and how the trip down Baja went? I’d love to make that trip in the Oliver too! But not without the backup and support of a large group.

Another "pro" for the SharkBite fittings is that they have a larger internal diameter. They go over the PEX pipe, where-as the crimp-on fittings insert into the pipe creating a slight restriction. Both types of fitting work fine, but I'd recommend getting a crimp ring cutting tool. They are inexpensive, and they make it easy to salvage crimped on fittings.

This was a reminder that some state and federal campgrounds have very small sites, particularly in older parks. Unfortunately it’s difficult to know that ahead of time. For instance, we’ve spent many weekends at Jedidiah Smith with our Elite II, and there are plenty of usable sites. However, you wouldn’t know that from the website, and the Rangers might try to discourage you because some people will block the road. We always drive the loop to see for ourselves, and we keep maps of every campground we visit with the best sites noted for future stays. Sometimes Google Maps (satellite view) is helpful to check-out the sites beforehand, as long as it's not forested.

Two of my least favorite things about the Oliver are the awning that can’t be used in the rain and the floppy/noisy bathroom door. I’ve long wanted to replace the door with a wooden one, but being a custom furniture maker, wifey has forbidden it because that's what I always do. No more wood! She just wants to keep with the shiny modern look for a change. So, when I told her about Oliver’s new fiberglass bathroom door, she loved the idea and surprisingly suggested that I make one just like it. Oh no! This could be problematic. I have no idea how the new door was designed, except that it appears to be made of fiberglass. Since I won’t likely see one in person anytime soon, I’d be grateful if anyone could share details or close-up pictures of the door. I’m curious about the jam, hinges, hasp, and finishes on both the inside and outside. I’m also wondering how the mirror is attached, if it has a bezel or frame, and if the door is two-layered or similar to the closet door with the gelcoat on the inside. If it seems doable without major wall or door jam modifications, I might build a reusable mold and try giving it a go. Any insights or opinions on this are welcomed. Cheers! Geoff

Galileo, Plugs should have a fairly tight fit in the receptacle and they will not easily fall out. However, we have all run across worn out, or poor quality, receptacles that the plug will not stay in. When a plug is loose in the receptacle, it means that the electrical connection is also loose! It’s one of the most common causes of fire. Loose connections have a high resistance that create heat, and/or arcing. It’s best to replace the receptacle. Otherwise, bend the plug prongs outward just a bit to improve the connection and the holding friction. Hardwiring is okay, but it shouldn't be needed. Cheers! Geoff

JD, I was reading your post, but I struggle with acronyms. I believe you’re asking why a 120-volt current through a #14 gauge wire can charge at 50 amps, while a 12-volt current through a much larger #4 gauge wire can’t. The answer lies in Ohm’s Law (E=IR), which states that voltage (E), current (I), and resistance (R) are directly proportional. Therefore, as voltage increases, current decreases. A good analogy is the 700 kilovolt transmission lines that can power a city through a wire the size of your thumb. If you reduce the voltage to 120 volts, then you would need a wire thicker than a redwood tree to carry all the amps. Regarding the Orion, it’s a type of Buck Booster, which means it can increase the voltage of a low-voltage input to a higher voltage output. However, an undersized feed cable from the tow vehicle still experiences voltage drop due to cable resistance (E=IR again), which will affect the charger’s performance. Look at it like a toaster, the heating element is basically an undersized conductor that is heating up due to its high resistance. It effectively limits current exactly like a resistor in an electronic circuit does. I hope that answers your question, and I apologize if I’ve misread it. Cheers! Geoff

I totally agree with all the recommendations above, except I'd also skip the WA coast past the Oregon border! If you want to continue North toward Canada, and see the area around Port Townsend, then that's worth it and little more complicated for a short discussion. I was glad to see that Lassen Volcanic Park is already on your list, it’s one of our favorite National Parks with lots to do and see in the area. Lassen’s Manzanita Lake campground, surrounded by snow capped mountains, is spectacular. If your a fisherman, there is premier fly fishing in the lake, and nearby Hat Creek. And since you will be that far south, then come 4 hours West to Eureka! South of Eureka is the famous Avenue of the Giants (Redwoods) and many great campgrounds. North of Eureka, Hwy 101 goes all the way up the CA and OR coast with lots more redwoods mostly on the CA side. As mentioned, most of the state parks are typically booked six months in advance during the summer, and it’s best to reserve if you can. But we travel the coast every summer without reservations, which is doable if you're willing to hit a few different places and shop around while exploring. Many of the local camps are still first come first serve, and there are always last minute cancelations and private campgrounds. Some parks have un-reserved ADA sites, and you can usually stay there after 5:00. We like the flexibility of not being on a reservation schedule because sometimes the rain totally sucks, and other times it's gorgeous. Patrick's Point, recently renamed Sue-Meg, is another of our favorite spots just minutes north of Eureka. There is whale and seal watching from the cliffs, a Sumac Indian village, Agate Beach, scenic Trinidad Harbor, nearby Elk herds, and great walking trails. Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park is another great spot just east of Crescent City. It's a lessor known park on the beautiful and sparkling clear Smith River. There is a recently discovered ancient redwood groove within a short walk that is protected with elevated walkways. Yes, it’s true! We also recommend taking a scenic jet boat tour up either the Klamath or Rouge rivers. Oh, and stop at the giant Paul Bunyan and Oxen attraction near Orrick, CA. It looks like a kids place, but it’s well worth stopping for the museum and the gondola ride above the old growth redwood canopy. If you get in a pinch near Eureka, give us a shout. You can alway hook-up in our yard under the redwoods, next to a massive 1500 year old stump. There might be some bears around, and there might definitely be snacks! Cheers! Geoff

Yes, definitely sign up for the T-Mobile Beta program! It’s a rapidly growing technology that is the future of cellular service. T-Mobile is actively seeking new subscribers by offering the free Beta plan to get a jump on other major carriers, such as AT&T, who have similar satellite-based plans in the works. So the more people that sign up, the quicker the industry will respond. Currently, the T-Mobil/Starlink Beta plan only offers basic SMS text messaging with very limited bandwidth. . . which would be good for emergencies. No calling or data. This will likely increase as more Satellites are launched, but who knows how long that will be. So still consider a Dishy, I think they are on sale right now. Cheers! Geoff

There are lots of Olivers with the keyless RVLock so I thought it's worth sharing our good experience with this great company. We decided to install an Amazon-purchased RVLock keyless door handle ourselves instead of buying it as an Oliver option. The installation was quick and easy, and it comes with a generous lifetime warranty. The locks are made in Utah by a small company, and they look and feel like a quality product. Unfortunately, however, there have been issues with the electronics because it has failed three times already! It first failed after about six months, and I called the company for the warranty claim. They wanted proof of purchase, then sent a replacement KPD keyboard and PCD circuit board with installation instructions. We were able to look up the receipt on Amazon and received the parts in a few days. It failed again about a year later, and RVLock still had me in their system. They immediately sent more replacement circuit boards with a new rubber keypad cover. This time, I applied sealer around the lock even though there were no signs of water intrusion. Unfortunately, it failed for the third time a few weeks ago. The RVLock company’s customer service was apologetic and said that they’ve done some design changes to address the problems. This time, they sent upgraded circuit boards, a new speaker circuit board, a foam gasket, and instructions. There was a shipping charge of $3. I hope that this is the final fix because we genuinely love the lock and we wish success for companies that stand behind their products. Cheers! Geoff

Well not completely! Clamp-on amp meters are great tools for RV owners, and many double as multimeters too. But it’s important know the differences and limitations to make an informed choice of which meter will meet your expectations. Clamp-ons are great for measuring higher currents, such as battery chargers and power feeds. But they're not great for measuring low currents, such as branch circuits and parasite loads. They don’t have the resolution needed for lower amps, and they can be finicky if not positioned just right. If you plan on measuring small currents, then get a basic Multimeter with a shunt type ammeter. They measure "in-line" with the current, typically up to 10 amps (+/- 1 milli amp.) Some clamp-on meters with built in multimeters, such as the Klein CL390, also include a shunt type amp meter. But check the specs because a lot of these are in microamps, which is too low for an RV’rs needs. Amperage is subjective of many factors, so if you're really serious, consider a $$$ data logging meter to see whats going on over time. The Victron smart shunt also has data logging (+/- 10 milli amps.) You can use it to measure the current of various loads by isolating the circuits and inputs. Having said all that, I recommend getting both a Clamp-on ammeter and separate Multimeter to cover all your amp measurement needs. You will probably be reaching for the multimeter most of the time. If you want some Oliver real life examples of ammeter accuracy, and how to measure parasite loads, see my post in the topic “Battery depletion rate 3% or more per day... with EVERYTHING off?” My post is way down on the third page with photos. Hope that helps, Geoff

This is yet another modification for instant hot water. I was inspired by @Minnesota Oli who brilliantly installed a timed solenoid valve to circulate hot water from the bathroom faucet back to the freshwater tank. This saves from wasting water down the drain while waiting for it to get hot. I loved the concept of using a timer, but I went with a recirculating pump instead of a solenoid valve. We’ve used this design for about a year now, and it’s been very luxurious and effective. Not only does it help conserve fresh water, it prolongs the grey water tank volume which is now our most limiting factor when boondocking. The recirculation pump is started from momentary push button switches installed at each faucet. The button(s) activate a timer/relay that runs the pump for 25 seconds. Experimentation showed that 25 seconds sufficiently heats the pipes to deliver hot water at full temperature. The pump circulates the hot water back to the hot water heater, rather than into the fresh water tank. The new recirculation pump is the same model as the existing main pump. It was connected with flexible faucet hoses to reduce vibration and isolation valves so it can be used as a spare if needed. The pump was mounted on a plywood board fastened with construction glue to the vertical fiberglass surface by the furnace return vent. Note: Pump pressures can vary, so it might be necessary to slightly adjust the pump pressure switch to overcome the house pump pressure. Also, the pump may not overcome some of the higher city water pressures if a pressure regulator isn’t used. . . as it should be regardless. The Oliver has two separate hot water loops that I joined together so that the kitchen faucet is included in the recirculation loop. Being a shorter loop, there was less water wasted while waiting for it to get hot, but it's used more frequently so it's worth it to join the loops. There is plenty of room under the floor and behind the cabinets to run PEX return lines. “T” fittings were installed at the kitchen and bathroom faucets, and at the water heater input as shown on the drawing. Note: There was a buried 3-way valve, flexible by-pass hose, and a (clogged open) check-valve for water heater isolation. It was restricting flow and pinching the furnace duct so I completely removed it. The Water Heater can be easily isolated other ways if the need arises. The momentary push buttons were arbitrarily programed so that they must be depressed for one second before the pump will start. The buttons were non-intrusively mounted in 1/2” holes. The bathroom button is behind the existing bathroom pump switch, the kitchen button is above the sink, and the outdoor shower button is inside the shower wand enclosure. The sheathed button wiring is joined together under the street side bed along with the timer. I used terminal blocks, but wiring could be joined with any number of splicing methods. The button wiring carries no measurable voltage or current, it’s simply a switch to “low” (ground) for the timer trigger. Wire runs to the bathroom and outdoor shower switches are pretty straight forward, the bathroom vanity shelf needs to be removed for access. The kitchen switch wiring is laid under the liners in the upper cabinet, through the attic, and down the rear wall next to the clear AC drain tubing. I used a programmable timer/relay for the pump. An inexpensive (re-usable) Programer is also needed to program the timer. The Programer has built in App and Bluetooth for programing it on a smart phone and I’ve provided a screen shot of the program settings. This is truly simple to do, and quite fun! As many in this forum know, the Tuma Comfort II water heaters have a built-in circulation pump, controlled by temperature sensors, that keeps a small internal tank ready with hot water. Only one part (unavailable to public) differentiates it from the Truma Comfort II “Plus” that has a full hot water recirculating system. It took a few years, but I finally have the design details for that part and I’ll try to fabricate one when the Truma is removed for the up-coming factory recall work. More to come if I’m successful. The Truma “Plus” recirculation system provides true instant hot water (when not in Eco mode) because it keeps hot water circulating through the system based on temperature sensors. My system has a 25 second delay before the water is hot, then it cools down until the button is pushed again. This is less convenient, but more energy efficient because it doesn’t periodically cycle. I’m still on the fence which system is better, but fortunately the recirculation loop installed in this modification will work for both systems. Hope someone finds this useful! Cheers! Geoff Shopping list: Sureflow pump https://a.co/d/cSLUWEF 10 amp Timer/Relay https://a.co/d/g6C1zaZ Timer/Relay Programer https://a.co/d/9h1HtK6 Momentary switches https://a.co/d/i9wwhNs Terminal Blocks https://a.co/d/bkgrKhh Red PEX and fittings Flexible faucet hoses 1/4 turn valves

Thanks! And I see how that poor quality photo could raise questions from observant folks. Only the spirit level was installed by Oliver. The bottom item is a 12vDC outlet for a macerator pump. Next is a rotary switch for electric valves that are used for freshwater tank drain, boondocking and winterizing line-ups. It’s described in the post “Electric valve control… with a twist.” Then there is a third water-pump switch for the outdoor shower, or when filling the freshwater tank from the boondocking port. This is described in the post “4-way pump switch for the outdoor shower.” Above that, are labeled LED indicators for the aforementioned pump and valves. Lastly a Levelmate with lengthened thumb screws for easy battery changing. They do look like toggle switches! Then my trusty pliers. . . they actually replaced quick disconnects that I found were too bulky and inflexible for my needs. Cheers! Geoff

Could be a number of different things, but it wouldn’t have anything to do with the circuit breakers or park power. The fault will be at the GFIC outlet, or one of the downstream outlets fed by it. GFIC’s are not overcurrent devices, rather they detect minute circuit imbalances where either the hot wire or neutral wire is leaking current to ground. So one of the most common problems is moisture, usually in the outdoor outlet/box. Make sure the cover seal is good and dry it off as best you can. Another common cause is improperly wired devices, so make sure everything is unplugged. If that doesn't fix it, then disconnect the "load" side of the GFIC outlet and see if it’s still tripping. If so, then replace the GFIC. If it doesn’t trip with the load disconnected, the GFIC is okay and I’d go back to the outdoor outlet and really dry it well. Good luck!

Nice! I think I'd need several sets!

When doing hook-ups or departures from camp, I regularly find myself in need of water pump pliers to tighten and loosen water lines. . . which means digging out the tool box to find them. So I decided to mount a dedicated pair in the outdoor garage where they will be close at hand when needed. After looking at various options for storing the pliers, I settled on a small leather tool pouch from Amazon. It was low profile, could be easily mounted on the wall, and it didn’t take up precious garage floor space. The pouch also had pockets for a small flashlight and pen, which also can also be elusive items when signing in after dark. The tool pouch had a belt clip that was removed, and I stretched one of the pockets to fit my LED penlight. The leather is easily stretched by soaking it in water for about 60 seconds and using a dowel or other cylindrical object to expand the pocket. The leather is quickly dried in an oven at 130 degrees to hold the new shape. I chose a 7” Knipex Plier Wrench for my kit because of its high quality. They aren’t cheap, but the Oliver is deserving, and they are a pleasure to use. There are many excellent choices available for pliers, flashlights and pens. I just used what I already had on hand. Some folks might also be interested in my handy tool for stashing and retrieving things from the unreachable depths of the garage. This is simply a sanded length of 1/2” x 3/4” moulding with an aluminum angle screwed onto one end as a hook to pull things out. Oh, and notice the spring to pull the garage door suspension cable out of the way so it doesn’t get pinched in the seal like mine does. Hope you find this useful! Cheers! Geoff

I don't know about the noises, mine makes just a little noise. The circulation pump keeps hot water in the small reserve tank, so it's turned off to conserve power and gas in the ECO mode. Good luck, Geoff

True. . . but they were terribly misleading because the circuit is energized directly from the battery, regardless if the alternator is charging or not. Think of it like a jumper cable connected to the battery, if you were to brush the red cable against any grounded surface of the vehicle then you're going to have big sparks like a welder . . . before any thermal fuse will blow. A circuit fused at 60 amps has significant potential and I think it would be somewhat negligent not to have a quick and easy means to disconnect it, as is the law in other applications. It’s straight off the battery, always energized, running the length of the vehicle, with a connector exposed on the rear bumper. Most mechanics wouldn’t have any idea what it is, and may not take precautions to avoid it. I love @Tom and Doreen idea of using a high amperage switch instead of a breaker. The switch is more obvious and it would do a better job at alerting someone of a high potential than might need to be shut-off. I’m keenly aware that I’m too forgetful, and I may not always be around. Cheers! Geoff

Yes, the snacks are missing!!! Wifey has been notified and I can neither confirm or deny any involvement in their disappearance!

I also used a Blue Seas MRBF 60 amp fuse, and I added a redundant 60 amp breaker just as a disconnect switch. The Orion output has a #7720 Blue Seas 60 amp fuse block, rather than a breaker. Just as a FYI: A breaker has polarity so it only protects the wire on the load side. In this unique application, you would have to decide if the breaker will protect the wire from the massive Oliver battery current potential, or from the 50 amp Orion charger potential. Whereas a fuse has no polarity, it protects the wire from both potentials.

John, good discussion! The Orions protective features are based on voltage rather than amps, and alternator voltage will drop in an overcurrent current situation. Thats one of the Dropout Voltage functions, it protects the alternator from overcurrent. The Orion allows you to adjust the Dropout Voltage enough to compensate for cable voltage drop, but not enough to lose the alternator protection or engine-on detection features. I was pleasantly surprised when getting 35.8 amps output from the Orion, but it is capable of 40 amps. With the 42 amp input, it equates to 85% efficiency, where Victron claims 87%. The difference in my output / input amps can be attributed to both efficiency and cable voltage drop because even with #4 we are undersized. Okay I see whats going on, you have a “non-isolated” Orion! So the b- current is divided between the #4 wire and your frame. Those angry pixies will always take the path of least resistance, so as you rightly pointed out, the wire is taking 75% of the load because the frame resistance is higher. I hadn’t considered that because I use an isolated Orion and it carries the full input current on the wires only. I don't think it's a problem for you, if anything, it's helping. Humm? The 50 amp Orion is non-isolated too, so JD would be well served to buy an additional 12' of wire for the truck b-, and get a performance boost at little extra cost🤙 Good stuff man!