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Patriot, you’re doing it to me again! Earlier I’m thinking about a fridge-freezer box for the TV and now this! Hope to meet you on your next trip west! 😂 Lance @Mountainman198 we met at the Q in Feb and thank you my friend for being the pioneer in this upgrade! 😂 So we’re sitting at Mt Rushmore, did the Presidential Trail yesterday, Bison filet at the Powder House Lodge and went back for the night presentation, lighting of the monument followed by a salute to our veterans, what a majestic place! We slept well and got up to coffee, the forum and checking the map for the next leg of our trip. So Grand Junction is on our planned route, halfway between here and home! Not sure I want to afford their full service treatment but I would not upgrades leafs without the 5200 lb axles and all the extras you mentioned. Just had breakfast and after another cup of coffee, I’ll be calling Lew. I have no idea if they could fit us in a week out and not sure if they have the 50” axles required for our older hull. I will at least stop by, purchase the leafs, HD shackles, wet bolts, etc. for a later installation at home, purchasing axles later… Or perhaps, bite the bullet, beak down emotionally and let somebody else work on my Oliver! 🤣

FYI for @DaveK and @Patriot, when you receive the dehumidifier from Amazon, take it out of the box and set it upright on the counter and let it rest unplugged for 24 hours before you turn it on the first time. Like all refrigeration based appliances, if it’s turned on it’s side during shipping, it must be allowed to set in the upright position for 24 hours to make sure the liquified freon and the oils inside drain back to where they normally are during normal operation. This of course applies any time the unit is allowed to lay on its side or upside down. It will certainly be handled like any other package during shipping so don’t forget to perform this procedure to safeguard the internal systems. 👍

So why did I calculate the above power potentials? Certainly not to coerce anybody to do anything. But to inform of the power potentials that we need to be aware of. Yes, to me the primary purpose of having a battery AND a solar discos are (#1) maintenance and (#2) emergency use. #1 MAINTENANCE SAFETY & CONVENIENCE: When we are doing maintenance on our Ollies that in any way involve electrical it is important to disable ALL power sources that can bite us. Certainly 120V shore and Inverter power sources, as well as battery and solar. Why all? Because each trailer has systems that interconnect between them. Examples: Inverter, Converter, Refrigerators, computer power ports, etc. As stated above the are many ways that a simple mistake during a simple maintenance task can, and likely have occurred from not making safe all power sources. If you don't have the necessary disco's and don't have the background experience in such systems to safely disco hot circuits.... You really need to think about your situation. With the disco's you just need to: Turn off a 350 A battery switch Flip a solar breaker Physically verify your Ollie is not plugged into shore power (Generator, Power Pole, Outlet). Without disco's, we can manually make the job electrically safe by taking apart hot cables. This is a sweat producing moment for many and hazardous as well. But it takes a lot of time. I guarantee you that at some point in doing so, you will realize that the minor cost of installing those power Disco's is far more cost effective than your time to Disco and restore all sources of power when working on your electrical and mechanical systems. Finally on this point, I consider end of season parasitic loss elimination and power source isolations just another maintenance task that is a lot easier with such switches. #2 EMERGENCY USE: If you are handy and you smell a major electrical acrid burning smell, it is possible that you manually disco the various systems. In the 10 or 15 minutes it takes to get the tools and do so, the problem may have spread from a simple electrical issue to a major one. But it is possible that you can deal with it. But what if you are out fishing/hiking/or flying hang gliders; Are your guests capable of doing the above? Not likely for most owners. With no discos, for the vast majority of spouses or guests, they should exit the trailer and call 911 and summon help if there are knowledgeable campers around. Either way, they get to watch what happens next from a safe distance. Most important part is they are safe. On the other hand if you or they feel it is safe to do so: Turn off the Battery Master Switch and Solar breaker, and unplug the exterior power port. Air out the trailer and then figure what was burning..... IN SUMMARY: Our OTT electrical and mechanical systems are exceptionally well designed and carefully manufactured. Over time their systems age very well compared to the SOB's. As a result we don't see many of our OTT units burning to the ground. But fires do happen and to me, having basic measures in place make sense as the cost could be so very high if you don't. MANY owners, especially the Master Level Contributors, are fully capable of doing significant DIY efforts. Everything from A/C and Refrigerator replacements DC to DC chargers, transition to Lithium, adding solar, springs, axles. hitches, fans and other really great projects. We take great pride in helping other owners to join the DIY group. But first start with a DEEP dive in this forum on the topic. Take pictures of your system and download the posts and pictures of others who have done the effort. You than can intelligently talk to OTT or other qualified firms to have the mod done. Or, to start asking question and help on our forum if you want to DIY it. Our owners are scattered out all across the USA. Likely one will be in your location or willing to meet should the paths cross during the season. GJ

Yeah, I would do that too! But not what OTT installed years ago. The screen is bulky and low res, and not sitting on my dash. Do I remember correctly, powered by a cigarette lighter plug? Mine has been in a box since we got our Oliver 2 years ago. Except for our Victron inverter and multiple charger systems, total rewire of all things electrical, a bunch of sensors and apps, powered water and waste valves and a few other items, like our Samsung A/V system… Our Dodge and Oliver are mainly old-school! 🤣

We visited TRNP and Glacier NP (Two Medicine) in September (2019). Weather in ND was warm during the day and nice and cool at night. Lots of sun. At Glacier, weather was cool during the day and cooler at night. Very little sun, I had to run the generator at Glacier a couple times since there was not much solar activity going on. Two Medicine is a pretty dramatic site, mountains all around. Camping at TRNP, lots of blue skies. There were also lots of Bison wandering around the campground. At Two Medicine campground, GNP. No sun, cool damp weather. This park is a must see!! More Two Medicine…

Just a quick update on this project: Only four owners have requested assistance in getting one of these numbered plaques. We know that two of these were not in the original box that Oliver received from the supplier. One of these was removed by the previous owner to keep as a memento of the years that they had the Oliver. And, the last one is still being investigated. We are also in the process of investigating at least two different avenues of having these plaques produced at prices that are somewhat below what has already been quoted. Further details as we progress. Bill

Our older Ollies have absorption based refrigerator systems. They have an open flame burner that drives the refrigeration process. If the system has a combustion issue, it will generate CO. If you have critters flying into the cabin via the refer vents, your box is no longer sealed properly. That could for sure put you and others at risk. Seriously recommend you: Replace your CO/Propane Detector if there is any doubt about it's age or in our case with these type of refrigerators if the detector is over 4 years old. Reseal the combustion area from the cabin area. Most of us use Foil Tape. Buy 3M foil tape. GJ

The following was copied from a former post and provided herein to better consolidate progressive modifications to the Savana in regards to the opening statement: “Ultimately, two storage boxes were acquired to safely stow much of the cargo; specifically, underbody tool boxes.” Cargo Securement Assurance/General Discussion Posted December 14, 2024 When towing with a truck, the majority of ‘stuff’ brought along on a camping trip or road adventure is conveniently stowed within the various holds of the Oliver and bed of the TV. However, even though my former crew cab Silverado 1500 had a storage box under the rear seat, it was mostly used to accommodate service tools and supplies for the truck and thus, found myself utilizing the rear floorboards and seat as additional cargo space when traveling. There’s peace of mind knowing cargo carried in the bed of a truck is adequately secured, not so much for that behind the front seats! All one needs is something going on from behind when something tragic is happening up front, no bueno! We’re required to wear seatbelts for good reason, proper securement of vehicle interior cargo should be of equal importance. I would be interested in learning how owners with trucks/SUVs safely carry their cargo within. My awareness of cargo securement was heightened recently with acquisition of a converted cargo work van as my TV; specifics are detailed in a forum post last October under ‘Towing an Oliver’ and titled ‘2019 GMC Savana 2500 Cargo Van’, if interested. Unlike service utility work vans that generally have a partition or cargo net, along with containment shelves and boxes, to secure cargo and ensure personal safety; conversion and passenger vans are more designed for ‘people’ cargo. In the aforementioned forum post, I addressed cargo containment, but cargo securement was still under consideration. Here is what I did to address the subject matter: Maiden voyage to Texas Oliver Rally, Inks Lake SP; cargo contained, but not secured! DC CARGO E-Track system components were obtained via online purchases from Tractor Supply. Each of the Buyers Products boxes were fitted with six of these brackets, three at the top of each end. A 1/4” x 8” aluminum backing plate was used to attach and strengthen these mounts. Backing plate cut to size, holes drilled and tapped for mounting bolts. Containment boxes prepped for backing plate and E-Track bracket installation. Super Sliders affixed to bottom of containment boxes for ease of handling on interior carpet. Three E-Tract rails fastened to deck to accommodate securement straps. Aluminum plate at floor level is runway for folded e-bikes. This box was slid rearward once back box was removed for storage at COW Barn. It primarily contains items typically kept in the TV with additional storage space, as needed, a trunk per se. Ratchet straps best used for non-towing vehicle use. Box securement once e-bikes are deployed. Wider Cam straps best used for e-bikes and subsequent box securement when traveling. Rear box is for camping ‘stuff’, forward as a trunk and more ‘stuff’. Driver’s side box securement using ratchet straps. View of e-bikes ready for ‘takeoff’ on runway! Cam strap securing e-bike. Ratchet straps for spare propane tank, generator and other needs. Items too long for the containment boxes are stowed behind at side panel. Oliver-mounted hoist used to transfer box at storage facility. TV moved forward to enable box positioning. Cam straps used for the lift. Containment box lowered onto platform cart. Liking the modular containment storage.

Is the below search info below not correct? I am thinking you would set the Xantrex to only input 15 amps from shore power or generator then it would kick in and provide the next 10 amps or so with a 3000 watt inverter? How would the Xantrex know the difference between shore power and generator? Yes, Xantrex has a feature similar to Victron's Power Assist. Xantrex Freedom SW inverters and chargers include a "Generator Support Mode" that enables the unit to assist a generator when AC loads exceed its capacity. This functionality allows the inverter/charger to provide additional power from the batteries to supplement the generator, similar to how Victron's Power Assist uses battery power to supplement a limited input. Here's a more detailed explanation: Victron's Power Assist: This feature allows you to adjust the input current to a level lower than the output power without affecting output power. It allows the inverter/charger to use battery power to supplement a limited input like shore power or a generator. Xantrex's Generator Support Mode: This mode is specifically designed for RVs and boats. When using a generator, it allows the inverter/charger to draw power from the batteries to assist the generator when AC loads exceed its capacity. Key Difference: While both achieve the same goal of supplementing a limited power source, Xantrex's Generator Support Mode is more focused on generators and RV applications, whereas Victron's Power Assist can be used with various power sources.

Just to bring everyone who might be interested in this subject up to date, here is what has been (and is) going on: All Oliver Travel Trailers up to a certain date never had these "Hull #" plaques but when it was decided that all future Oliver would include them, the Company had plaques made for every one of the trailers that had ever been built. These plaques for the "older trailers were then given to the then current owners either via Service appointments or at Rallies over the next few years so that these owners could install them in their Ollies. Given that the "box" of older plaques has been in the possession of one Oliver employee (Matt Duncan) since they were made, it is unlikely (but not impossible) that any were "lost". However, it is likely that even though a specific plaque was given to an owner, that owner never actually installed the plaque inside the Oliver. It would appear that this is the situation for the two owners of older Ollies that we have checked for "missing" plaques. Again, if there are any current owners of older Oliver Trailers that do not have a plaque - please contact me to see if you plaque is still in that box. For anyone (to include the two that we have not found) that would still like one of these plaques, we are investigating what the possibility is of simply adding those numbers to the next "normal" order Oliver Manufacturing does. I understand that these are ordered in lots of 1,000! Therefore, depending on when the last order was placed it just might be some time before the next order is placed - we will (hopefully) find out soon one way or the other. And, depending on the answer to that question we should find out what the cost would be per plaque. Hope this helps. Bill

Good morning Folks. I have a friend who has a car lift in his Mancave at Treasure Coast Vault and we are going to use that to lift the units on and off. I am giving him the Dometic for his Race Car Trailer for installing the unit. I ordered a 2 wire Honeywell battery powered thermostat for the Gas Heater so that I can give him the control box for the Dometic. I am thinking the drain will prolly be abandoned.

Thanks for the responses. I've looked under the street side bed/seat and didn't see the big red switch. Don't remember seeing the Blue Sky box either. I'll take a picture of the under seat area next time I'm at the camper but perhaps it wasn't installed. The screen door is almost worthless as is. It would stop the cicadas flying around now but small bugs would come right in. I had my Four Wheel Camper in British Columbia one time and the mosquitoes were so bad you couldn't stand outside. I killed all the ones that followed me in and 15 minutes later the camper was full again. This cycled a couple times before I discovered the bugs were coming into the camper through the frig. vent. When they're hungry, they'll find any opening and our screen door has lots of openings! Not sure what I can do but I'll work on it next time I have it at my house. Thanks, Tony

Now that is a bad-boy machine I could really enjoy! I would likely go for the endure street legal 350 version. In a younger day, I had a 400 Penton KTM and Husky CR400. Both were way too pippy on the torque band, and more than I could handle even then as a young beast. The new 350 would have plenty of power for what I'm likely to get into. If I wait too long then likely a 250! 😞 And a big box on the rear. I see both of these efforts in the future! Thanks for sharing. GJ

Well, I put one of these grills in my shopping cart on the Sansujyuku webstore, but did not follow through due to the price fluctuations. Today I was contacted by another seller, GW Store, asking if I still wanted to order the grill. Sounded odd since I had never contacted GW before and didn't know who they were. They already had my shipping address and asked if I wanted to finish the order, at the regular retail price of $329. No thanks, I cancelled. JD, I know you're on the road. Did you save the box the grill was shipped in. It might be telling whether Sansujyuku shows as the sender, or someone else. A little research (below) reveals that Sansujyuku is likely to be a scammer. Though they do deliver to some customers, others have simply been cheated out of their money with no product delivered. You did receive your grill, but it could still be a scam. One of the tricks is for the scammer to set up fake ID credit card accounts, then they take your order and use their fake ID account to pay and have the product shipped to you from another vendor. The scammer gets your money. The actual product is effectively stolen; either the credit card company or the vendor that actually shipped the product takes the loss. I'm not saying that's the case with your purchase, but you know the old saying, if it sounds too good to be true.... https://www.trustpilot.com/review/sansujyuku.com

This is from the description on their Amazon store- "Product Usage Instructions: Breez Max connects to a 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi network. It is compatible with any mini-split, window or portable unit that has an IR remote control. If your device doesn't work out of the box, please contact Cielo Customer Support to make it compatible." Looks like any unit that works with an IR remote has a good chance of working with this thermostat. Might have to start a new thread at some point to track what other AC units it actually does work with? Thanks again for this.

I placed ours inside the inside or interior of the hull and it works fine. The idea is to allow it to be placed where another cell phone will pick up the signal the AT is sending. The inside AC might be good as long as the adhesive on the AT holder does not fail and you loose it. I have one hidden in my Honda generator, TV, car, as well.

Prompted by similar posts on the Facebook groups and here on the Oliver forum, I finally assembled my portable solar kit. I’ve had a Bluetti 200W solar panel (which does not have an integrated charge controller) for several years to help keep the EB70 in my truck charged up. I added a second after we got the Oliver, as well as a Vicrton MPPT 100/20 charge controller. My original intention was to interrupt the line between the solar port and the battery. But I really didn’t want to do something that invasive. So instead, like many owners before me, I built a suitcase case to supplement my suitcase panels. A Cabela’s plastic ammo box works great to mount the charge controller, an SAE solar port, and an MC4 PV port. It also holds the 10 gauge SAE and 30’ 10 gauge MC4 cables, inline fuse, polarity reverser, and MC4 tools. All in a handy box. This will be handy next weekend, when we leave for a ten day trip to New York’s Adirondack area at Fish Creek Pond. There are camp sites all around the lake; every one a waterfront spot. But no hookups and lots of trees. So hopefully 800W of solar panels will keep us well charged.

I like this idea. I may do it myself. By the way, is that your address on the box?

Because then I would need to buy a box to keep the router dry... but to each his own. This method works well for me. :)

I'm not much for out the window solutions in vehicles. Why not use the outdoor 110V outlet? We still have the included 50 ft wire and charger kit in the box. Over time and weather use of the long cord may become painful. It's nice to carry dish and battery and not worry about extending a cord and winding it up to leave. I just place the dish on an upside-down milk crate, always have a couple in the back of the truck. The battery solution can be expensive if purchasing outright, but we've had the DeWalt tools for years and I would not have had to buy more if one had not go bad last time out. Found an open-box 10 Ah 2-pack on eBay and these and a couple small ones will power up the Starlink and all the other tools we use. You also need the larger Ah for the leaf blower which cleans dirt-road dust of of the Oliver in seconds, clears debris from campsites and I use it every so often on outdoor rug. Nice to have! But I get it, the cable and 30V power adapter is in the kit, no additional expense, yes KISS! Best wishes, JD

We've been toting around the little Weber Q for years, long before we got our Oliver. I've gotten tired of this old grill, the folding side shelves, the rickety rolling stand. Recently, we became interested in the Napoleon PRO285-BK Grill. There are high-end models with built-in stands, but I thought they would be heavy and awkward to stow. It's a little bigger and heavier than the Q, but beats adding a second cooking device, like having a grill and a Brookstone (this has optional griddle inserts) and it offers indirect cooking, given the 2-burner design that cannot be had on a single-burner grill. List price is $329 plus tax (was $299 on Amazon last week, but not anymore). Then I found this company. I was a little skeptical at first, with their Chinese-like name (a Kansas Co, shipped from Hayes KS). And then when Trust Pilot and other online sources said good to OK things about them with a few years of history. I made the purchase last Sunday, they shipped Tuesday and we received it today in excellent condition, only a few scuffs on the box. You cannot beat this deal! Today the price is $228.65 but they do NOT charge shipping and NO sales tax! I paid $201.75 TOTAL last week, OMG. 🤣 Are you looking for a new grill? https://sansujyuku.com/product/napoleon-travelq-pro-285-sq-in-black-portable-liquid-propane-grill-pro285-bk/ We also purchased these extras. Leaving soon on a 5-week trip and can't wait to eat the food Chris cooks using our improved cooking equipment! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L6EMW0U/?th=1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077SLW6L4/?th=1

I think I have followed each step, but in the end my old map continues to show. I copied URL but not sure where to past it. I pasted in the box and the URL showed just for a second. My new map showed. I clicked on save. However the old map continues to show.

Follows is a whimsical discussion "envisionating" what such a trailer would be. I'll crawl out on the limb and call it an OE3 for grins. First I agree 99.9% of your suggestions on the what we would like to see in an OE3. Assuming 25' and 8000 pounds of the OE3 we can consider the tongue weight/balance. I assume that your suggested OE3 12%+ tongue weight is to accommodate heavier than average OE2 rear bumper loads. Over my past eight seasons with our OE2, I have noted a significant number of owners hauling more stuff on their rear bumper. So far, I don't recall any such owners experience any increased sway of their rigs. This speaks highly of the OTT efforts to make a non-sway trailer that we all enjoy. It is logical that a family wanting a larger Oliver, would also want to haul more storage inside as well as on the front and rear of the OE3. Additionally that pound for pound, that rear loads have far more impact on sway than front loading. Granted my Beast (F-150) would likely protest that assumption! For OE2's, If we are running with no or lighter rear bumper loads, then the current OE2 sway design is near perfect for most of us. As well, it is likewise for those running with greater rear loading. A statement of design safety margins OTT used. I am postulating that most of us are likely running in the mid 500's on tongue weight as a result and our loaded trailers are around 6,000 pounds. That calculates to about 9% tongue weight. For an OE3: I am thinking that the additional length and mass of the box section would move the CG rearward of the current OE2 CG. The further from the hitch the CG. the less sway becomes a concern. So I am thinking that if they shoot for the same % tongue weight for a 8000 pound OE3 (720# TW), they should be good to replicate the great sway performance of the OE2 design. What do you think? GJ

With the Savana readied to roll our COW to a scheduled destination, last week’s trip went very well; credit to the many upgrades and mods in the past few months. Here’s a few pics: Loading modular box at COW Barn containing camping gear. Improved safety chain management with newly installed hammerlock coupling links. Newly configured 7-pin and DC-DC connection cables. Ready for takeoff. Smooth landing at destination. Camp R&B, Guadalupe River SP, Spring Branch, Texas. Trailhead parking for an evening bike ride. Morning coffee inside the Savana from a rear passenger captain seat. Wash station setup.

No. I just saw this today. Like @jd1923mentioned, it won’t work using inverter but this option might allow you to use a smaller generator.