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@docron I’m a little late joining this conversation and I haven’t seen your final outcome, so I will add a little information that may or may not be of benefit. I know you have completed some initial troubleshooting and I would like a clarification on your statement above. Does it mean that you have used a 120V outlet tester which would test the output of the receptacle or have you removed the outlet cover and tested for voltage at the receptacle/wire connection which would test the input to the receptacle? If there isn’t any input voltage at the receptacle then as has been mentioned above, the problem is up stream and the junction box near the transfer switch would be the next test point. Then the transfer switch. The picture attached is from a 2017 LEII, but should be a fair representation of the components involved. Please let us know if you have solved your issue or if we can be of further assistance. Mossey

There are a lot of opinions on tow vehicles, but a tour of any campground shows that the vast majority of people choose full size pickup trucks, 1/2 ton and up, as their tow vehicle. And that’s because it’s about a lot more than just the rated towing capacity of the vehicle. The payload (cargo) weight rating and tongue weight limits are important too, but as John mentioned above, also cargo volume (space) is a major issue. We tried towing with large body on frame SUVs (a Ford Expedition EL extended length, and a Nissan Armada), and found that while the towing weight capacity and cargo weight rating was adequate, the bigger issue with the SUVs was not having enough space for all the things that go along on extended long camping road trips. Things such as bicycles, outdoor rug, camp chairs, awning screen, folding picnic table, clothes drying rack, portable grill, Andersen jack buckets, leveling blocks, large rubber wheel chocks, X-chocks, portable solar panel, water filtration system, generator & gas can, portable waste tote tank, tools, some spare parts, roadside emergency gear, etc. It’s all stuff we actually do use on trips, some folks can get by with less 🙂. And a lot of the camping gear gets dirty/muddy at the campgrounds, so better to store that stuff in a truck bed than the carpeted/upholstered interior of an expensive plush SUV. We finally ended up with an F-250 which meets our needs.

I’ll try … it’s the black one. (The blue one was provided in my spare fuse kit from OTT.) I tried a local hardware as well as NAPA, neither carry it or know about it. It’s in the fuse box, with all the other fuses. I don’t believe it’s blown, but I want to understand how it differs from the other fuses, and how to gauge when it is blown.

SOLVED! I had to turn off all breakers, turn off and disconnect from main 30amp power supply, then reset everything… and it worked! But I do have a question: There are (2) fuses in the aft dinette’s fuse box, for receptacles (?) — labeled #9 & 10 (2022 Elite II) — they are solid black — how can you tell if they are blown, when you can’t see through them?

Check to make the inverter breaker hasn't tripped. It is located under the street side bed at the battery box wall, and next to the actual inverter. Two days after we picked up our 2022, we had gone from the Oliver campground to David Crockett SP, plugged into shore power at both, and was checking the Lithonics app when I noticed all my batteries were around 73%. Spoke to Mike and he emailed me a picture and sure enough the inverter breaker had tripped. This happened again twice and Oliver sent a new one under warranty. What is your app showing for state of charge?

Since you did not fill in the information about your trailer, it would be really helpful if you told us which model trailer you have, what year it is, what kind of batteries, solar?, generator? Without much info to go on, I'm confused. You're camping with no hookups but somehow expected there to be 120 volts available from your outlets? You state that the microwave and A/C will run. The only place they can get power (in your situation) is from the batteries, through the inverter and only if your trailer has the Lithium battery package. Further you state that you "Called Oliver service and [they] would not help me, no tech support for anything 120v." This does not sound right. Who did you talk to?

We carry a 50L National Luna top loading fridge/freezer in the truck. If connected to shore power, plug in at pole or to Oliver. If Boondocking we use a combination of generator and Goal Zero 400 lithium power pack. We have a solar panel for the goal zero also. The fridge is strapped into the back seat and cable locked to the seat belt base. We have a swim noodle cut to fit the window and it is slit down the side to fit over the window. It acts as a seal for the heavy duty extension cord.

I added two motorized valves to the water lines going to the outside shower. I also added an air line to each water line with check valves (to prevent water from back-flowing into the air lines) to facilitate blowing the lines clear for winterization. The air line runs to the front of the trailer to a quick connect. I can use either the compressor system in the Silverado or a compressor at home. I also re-built the outside shower and dump valve box. Here is one of the motorized valves with the air connection prior to installation. Here's a look at the control station mounted in the basement.

Nice. This is exactly what I needed. Earlier this year I had 3 LifePros installed in your final configuration but they did not install an on/off switch. I supplied all the parts (except an on/off switch) after consulting with BB so I did provide the replacement board with lithium option. I have been trying to figure out how to mount the switch inside the box. And Wa La, here it is! They did thankfully route all the neg connections through the SS so it would work properly. Couple of questions; 1) Is a 250A bus bar with 3/8" connectors what you used? 2. Did you use a tie down strap on the batteries? My 3 fit snuggly in the box using an aluminum flat bar on one side on the bottom of the tray to hold them against the other side so they don't move but seems there should be a strap too in case of a bounce. However, there is no slot on the back of the tray for a strap to hold onto.

I use a Hobie 16 main sheet tackle (Harken) to suspend a 50 pound Yakima box, no worries at all and it looks cool with blue line, but I would not trust any rope setup with a 250 pound canopy. This works great for 170 pounds of Maggiolina RTT plus steel crossbars. It is rated for 250 pounds. https://www.amazon.com/Racor-PHL-1R-HeavyLift-4-Foot-Cable-Lifted/dp/B0009I8AO6/ref=sr_1_1?m=A2EJCTH67GJMT3&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1542837300 It is discontinued but still available for a while. Buy 2! $49! I have no idea about shipping, the box is not big but it is pretty heavy. I bought mine new in box on Craigslist for $120… https://www.classicdiscountstore.shop/products/racor-ceiling-storage-lift-phl-1r I used the two spreader bars but not the actual platform. I also tossed the ceiling attach hardware ( tiny screws), drilled out the 8 holes, and used 1/4” lag bolts going directly into studs. Once lifted for the off season, criss cross the cargo with 1” nylon straps. Those go into FORGED closed eye 3/8” eyebolts in studs. Open eyed bolts could, well, open if a heavy load is dropped onto them suddenly. Probably overkill, but I sleep a lot better knowing a $5k tent is not going to drop onto a $40 k Land Cruiser…. This is temporary strapping for short term, I was reworking the attach hardware… and needed the truck bars out of the way. Normally the bars will stay attached all the time. John Davies Spokane WA

UPDATE: Since my last post, my CO/LP alarm has gone off many times. The propane tanks have been off the entire time. It went off 2x the week of 8/20, then a week of bliss, and then the week of 9/3 it’s gone off 5 out of 7 days. I’ve been sleeping with my windows cracked, for fresh air; one of those nights there was campfire smoke. Otherwise, nothing I could think of to set it off. It’s the “LP beep” and not the “CO chirp”. And in order to make it quit, I’ve been forced to use the overhead fan for at least 5 minutes with the windows open — otherwise it goes off again in 10 or 15 minutes. Last night I was pondering use of my rubber mallet (kidding). Tonight I have my cgd (combustible gas detector) out, so I can use it on the spot if it goes off again, before I turn on the fan. If the detector doesn’t find anything I would like to conclude a faulty CO/LP Alarm. But I DID smell propane back when it first started in July. And the cgd had positive readings with the propane tanks off, in August. So it’s a quandary. Do I dare disengage the thing? I read my manual for notes on fuses, and I see a chart, but I’m not seeing the labels to match in my fuse box. Maybe there’s a 2nd fuse box? At any rate, I need to do something — it’s not fun to be opening up and pulling in outside air when it’s 45 degrees. Though it does bring back vivid memories of a trip I once made to Bryce Canyon in November with a canvas pup tent.

@dewdev I decided to not connect the two external condensate lines from the AC to the internal (Oliver) drain line. I did not want to compromise the weather seal between the new FreshJet AC and the roof of the Oliver. To connect the two condensate lines to the internal line it appears you would need an extra roof gasket. The two condensate lines run (sandwiched) between two roof gaskets. For the time being, I have capped off the internal drain line that leads between the hulls. I may change my mind and reconnect the lines at a later date. I was able to use the existing thermostat control box from the old unit. Note: You may not be able to use your existing inner ceiling cover from the old Penguin AC, the four main mounting bolt holes on the FreshJet are spaced further apart. I replaced my ceiling cover a couple years ago with one that was more flush with the ceiling, thus allowing me to have more head room in the Oliver, being 6’5” tall I needed the extra space. It is a more universal fitting and I was able to use this replacement cover without any problem. You may want to check with Mary (RoadLotus) on the type of cover she is using.

@dewdev, I had mine installed by an RV shop. According to them, no modification was needed on the entry hole and the condensation lines are the same. I did not relocate anything as far as the temperature box. I am using the existing dometic thermostat. @rangered did his own installation and can provide more details on that. He also got a lower db reading than me. I was using my phone to measure, and it looks like he has an actual db meter. I hope that’s helpful 🙂

I got a couple of questions when installing the new Dometic Freshjet AC. 1. Did you have to modify the fiberglass opening and how was the new AC sealed so there was no leaks? 2. How was the condenate line reconnected? Do you have to disconnect the old condensate line from the old AC and reconnect the condensate line to the new AC? 3. Was the temperstate control box inside the old AC unit? Did you have to relocated it? Thanks

I have a Renogy 20amp DC/DC charger installed in the Oliver under the rear dinette seat, near the battery bank. It was reconfigured for lithium following the battery swap, as well as the Xantrex 2000. The extent of my boondocking is mostly overnight stays while traveling, destinations generally CGs with hookups. In the event the battery bank becomes too depleted and insufficiently charged, I carry generators. In the past, the smaller generator was run from the tailgate for a/c, as necessary. As a contingency, I currently have a 200w solar array atop my TV for purpose of charging a 100ah lithium portable power station to run a Dometic CFX 75DZ cooler staged under cap in the truck bed. My intent is now to use that solar to supplement the Oliver’s house batteries if need be, whether driving are stationary. Given this information, please advise if you have any recommendations to help strengthen my ‘plan’, much appreciated!

Not much to see here, but as promised, here are a couple of photos. The first is obvious, the second is the storage box quick disconnect at the back of our Ollie.

Yes, however I have a storage box for the pole to keep it looking sano as it travels in the bed. The light mounting plate will live where you see it mounted and I can easily attach the light and solar panel at base camp set up. The light is plastic and likely would not withstand towing down the super slab underway. The lower profile light mounting bracket should be fine. Mod On!! 😊

Looks like a really nicely built trailer. I have several utility trailers from a 4x6 foot box trailer that I built back in the 1990's to carry camping/SCUBA gear in to a 7x18 foot flatbed. In Gardner, MT at the North Entrance to Yellowstone NP - September, 1997. Getting ready to leave on a rafting trip on the Buffalo NR in Arkansas, April, 2003.

New aluminum folding trailer. The sides are reflecting the dark ground, they are shiny silver. https://apogeetrailers.com/folding-aluminum-trailers/ https://www.etrailer.com/tv-review-apogee-adapt-x-300-folding-utility-trailer-at44fr.aspx I found it for $2000 off MSRP, paid $3388 out the door (no sales tax in OR, I have to pay that when I register it in WA. I love the design and the build quality and the attention to details, but holy cow, it is sure noisy on lumpy pavement. It sounds as if it is going to explode, even with 450 pounds of ballast. I use a hitch quieter on the ball mount, I tightened the coupler nut and put nylon ties onto every little rattly part like the pivot pins. They do not mention this in the fancy marketing material. This is a really rare trailer in the USA, I think they are not selling a lot, eTrailer.com USED to carry them, but no longer does. Mine is a 2022, I have not seen any 2023 models listed except in the Home Country, Canada. I guess more Canadians need the folding feature for winter storage, plus they are a little cheaper there too. I have not read any user reviews except for a couple of “Gee I really like this.” And “Gee this is really cool, my ATV fits fine!” This thread will change that. I will post lots of pics and info as I learn more. Fixed their home page: I do not intend to carry a 2000 pound ATV all the time, this is for box store and landscaping trips. I do not want this to turn into another bottomless pit of mods, like “Mouse”, but was considering adding this. It uses the existing axle and hubs, unlike their Independent suspension version. Timbren Silent Ride 3500 lbs I am concerned that the rubber dampers may be too stiff, the trailer has a max payload of 2300 pounds but normally will be less than 1000. If the dampers from the smaller 2000 pound kit can be swapped in easily, that would be a possible solution. Does anyone have direct experience with this Silent Ride system? I just got home yesterday afternoon, 700 mile round trip to the dealer in two days, and I am a bit wiped. I could do that a lot easier when I was 30… I need to do some crawling around and measuring. John Davies Spokane WA

We've had the Battery Box on our radar screen since we purchased Casablanca back in March from its PO in TX. One of the Hull #226 selling points for us was that the PO had recently replaced the AGMs with 3 Battle Borns and added a Victron Smart Shunt. However, upon learning from the forum, the BB install by the PO was less than optimum - or at least to our understanding at the time. We were surprised that there wasn't a battery master "shut-off" switch. This fact was the main driver for this project - after looking into what we "really" had on our hands, the pervasive project "scope creep" showed its ugly head! Full Disclosure: Although we've had several RVs over the decades, never have we owned Lithiums. Thanks to these forums, learning about the nuances and particulars of LiFePOs, specifically, Battle Borns - and even more specifically, their application with the Oliver, has taken some time to digest. We didn't want to delve into the "fray" of "cleaning up" what was previously installed until our understanding of this particular system was at a high enough level not to screw something up. So, thanks to the forums, many of y'all's posts regarding the subject, and special thanks go out to @Geronimo John for his patience and guidance with what ended up being a fairly large scale re-design of Casablanca's DC distribution system. Initial Configuration and Issues: 1. A key indicator that there was an issue somewhere within the "DC system" was that the charge controller would never reach 14.4 volts; 13.6 was the max ever observed/measured. 2. The BBs were stacked in an unusual configuration on the battery tray. The rear two batts were aligned side-by-side facing left/right and the third "outer" BB was aligned 90 degrees off facing fore/aft. Several cables were too short not allowing full battery tray extension. Clearly not a neat/tidy or logical configuration. 3. The battery bank was not strapped down. 4. Although likely large enough for intended current, the three BB's parallel connections were made with 1/0 cables versus the 4/0 cables distributing the current into the trailer. 5. Several positive and negative connections were made directly to the battery bank without the use of any sort of terminal post or terminal bar even though the Smart Shunt was in place. These connections were bypassing the SS, not good - thus contributing to phantom current within the DC distribution system and not allowing the Victron App to capture all DC power activity. 6. One cable, a yellow 4 AWG, ran from a negative BB terminal to the wrong side of the Victron SS; this cable essentially paralleled the 4/0 cable from the same terminal to the shunt. This made absolutely no sense. 7. As stated above, no battery master switch. We've always had a master switch in previous campers - handy for longer term storage and eliminating phantom current. In case of fire, we wanted a "safety switch" located outside the camper and inside the battery box to quickly secure DC power after quickly exiting the rig. SUMMARY OF WORK PERFORMED: The closer we looked at the DC set-up the more questions and issues surfaced. There were other ancillary DC system "gripes" but the above list really paints the picture of what we were dealing with... After quite a bit of forum research, thought, and informative and lively discussions with Geronimo John; a clearer project plan developed. 1. We made an assumption that the PO didn't upgrade the "lead-acid" charge controller circuit board as part of the BB installation. This rationale would explain why we never observed more than 13.6 volts on shore power with the controller energized. Sure enough, after pulling the board, it was clear that the board was doing exactly what it was intended to do - charge lead-acid batteries; as it didn't have the Lithium micro-switch option. So, we ordered a replacement 45-Amp board from Amazon with the Lithium option - enter "project scope creep." Above pic shows replacing the LA charge controller with a Li-capable board. The lead-acid board is 100% functional and will be posted for sale on the forums. The new Li-board cranked right up and the BBs finally received the charge intended for a Lithium battery bank: 2. Disconnected and removed the 1/0 cables connecting the 3 BBs, labeled and stacked them sequentially from back to front. Sized cables to allow full extension of the battery tray and added nylon tie-down straps from Rangley. Cut, crimped, heat shrunk, and installed new 4/0 color-coded cables in parallel configuration: Made a terminal buss-bar from 3/16" x 1" solid copper for the Blue Sea Systems master switch (Amazon) which will be heat shrinked once it arrives. Contoured a poly board from an old cutting board to mount the switch, like many owners have done. Mounted a positive (+) terminal bar with the master switch to accommodate DC connections. In the new configuration, only 4/0 cables are connected to battery terminals - removed the various "added-on" connections and placed them appropriately between the (+) terminal bar and the Victron SS. Now, all DC (-) connections are made through the shunt so all DC power measurements are captured with the Victron Application. Peace of mind - priceless. While we were at it, we added an SAE solar input port for the 200W Renogy suitcase solar modules - more scope creep... HA! Not being an EE, I'm sure there's something left out, but in the end, we've got a clean set-up in the battery compartment, fully functional Victron SS, and the appropriate charge controller to manage the BBs. Time for a cold one. Cheers! A & D

John, rather than splice into trailer wiring, the previous owner of our trailer ran a second circuit from the tow vehicle to the back of the Oliver. It’s for the storage box on the back, and there is a quick disconnect for the box. Wiring is under the hull. There is a down side to this approach, both he and I had to cut an opening into the door of the TV 4 pin to connect the new flat four circuit. I’m probably going to build a new jumper that comes off the TV 7 pin, and splits to a 7 and 4 so I can better weather protect the TV connection. If you would like, I can take photos for you.

For the wires, take a look at this thread: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/5271-how-to-junction-box-for-the-7-wire-trailer-harness-under-the-front-dinette-seat/ John Davies Spokane WA

We originally bought a receiver hitch flagpole mount. What with keeping the 1UP bike rack attached to the OTT 2" receiver back aft, we came up with this modification to what @Ollie-Haus and @Patriot mounted on their cargo boxes... The inspiration is definitely from @John E Davies's original flagpole mount post from back in the day. This is a powder-coated aluminum sleeve that holds the flagpole in place. Used two 3/8" x 2.5" bolts with fender washers, lock washers, and nuts to fasten it to the bottom of the cargo box. The weight of the flagpole rests on the surface - the sleeve keeps it rigid. Rock solid. Just need a light for 'Ol Glory during hours of darkness. May need a locking pin through the sleeve/flagpole assembly so it won't grow legs and walk away, HA! Mental Note: "Take down flagpole before driving away." Cheers to all!

I see two in the aft dining basement mounted opposite the inverter box on the wheel well - the red unit with two buttons on it and the black unit to its right with one red button - would these be them? Can you tell me what each does?

I assume that you have a reservation at Wapiti and (as you may know) they do have a number of sites there that have power. There is another National Forest Service campground west of Wapiti - Rex Hale - that has 6 or 7 electric sites if you need them but they are usually reserved well in advance. If push comes to shove and you really need power (or dump or laundry, you can head back east a few miles to Yellowstone Valley Inn. My favorite campground in West Yellowstone is Baker's Hole - north of the town by about 2 miles (just beyond the airport). Site 50 or 51 will get you a wonderful view into Yellowstone National Park and stunning sunsets. There are also a few electric sites there but (again) they are usually reserved well in advance. The best laundry in West Yellowstone is "Little Ducklings" (520 Madison Ave). There are two grocery stores in town if you need to restock. Propane refills can be obtained at Westmart Building Center (100 S. Faithful Street - its an ACE Hardware store) or at the Mobil Gas station (11 Yellowstone Ave). If you do the research, there are a number of places to boondock near the Grand Tetons. One of my favorite places is a decommissioned National Forest Service camp called Box Creek. It is located approximately 10 miles east on Buffalo Valley Road. If you plan to fish, PM me for suggestions. Have a great trip! Bill