RVLock company stands behind its product

[Snackchaser]

There are lots of Olivers with the keyless RVLock so I thought it's worth sharing our good experience with this great company.  

We decided to install an Amazon-purchased RVLock keyless door handle ourselves instead of buying it as an Oliver option. The installation was quick and easy, and it comes with a generous lifetime warranty.  The locks are made in Utah by a small company, and they look and feel like a quality product.  Unfortunately, however, there have been issues with the electronics because it has failed three times already!

It first failed after about six months, and I called the company for the warranty claim.  They wanted proof of purchase, then sent a replacement KPD keyboard and PCD circuit board with installation instructions.  We were able to look up the receipt on Amazon and received the parts in a few days.

It failed again about a year later, and RVLock still had me in their system.  They immediately sent more replacement circuit boards with a new rubber keypad cover. This time, I applied sealer around the lock even though there were no signs of water intrusion.

Unfortunately, it failed for the third time a few weeks ago. The RVLock company’s customer service was apologetic and said that they’ve done some design changes to address the problems.  This time, they sent upgraded circuit boards, a new speaker circuit board, a foam gasket, and instructions.  There was a shipping charge of $3.

I hope that this is the final fix because we genuinely love the lock and we wish success for companies that stand behind their products.

Cheers!  Geoff

Edited February 15, 2025 by Snackchaser
lost some text in last edit

[topgun2]

I believe that it is a shame that we have to be so surprised by a company that really does stand by its product.

However, it is really refreshing to hear about those who do.  Thanks for letting us know how these guys have treated you.

Bill

[jd1923]

Thought once to get one of these but reading this and some earlier posts makes me very happy that the 10-year-old keyed lock in our door is still working fine. For me on this one, leave well enough alone, where normally I'm the upgrade type.

[MAX Burner]

We also had a great experience with RVLock last year when we replaced the keypad with the upgraded version (the numbers were peeling off on the original pad).  After commenting this story to the RVLock folks manning their booth at the RV show in Quartzite last month - I was awarded with a huge swag bag of cool stuff!  

A great and responsive company, RVLock.

[Patriot]

RV lock was one of the first top 5 mods I installed on our Oliver. 5 years later it still works perfectly, has served us well and so convenient. I did replace the original key pad with the new updated silicone rubber key pad.

Highly recommend based on our use and experience.

 

Edited February 15, 2025 by Patriot

[Galileo]

We’ve had good luck with RVLock support - as they are responsive and quick to send out parts under warranty. 

I forget the exact failure mode, but our original OTT installed RCLock quit working. After chatting g with them on the phone they mailed out a replacement circuit board for the cost of shipping. (I’d whine about having to pay shipping - but I’ll get over it.)

In the meantime, I had purchased a whole new unit from Amazon. This one talks yo you and had a lock/unlock sound that doesn’t wake the neighbors. 

I replaced the circuit board in the original lock and kept it as a spare. 

Last season, the “new” lock stopped unlocking reliably - only withdrawing the deadbolt about halfway and requiring a second attempt to get in to the trailer. So, the “spare” gets re-installed. 

Several more emails and sending them a video of the lick not working and they say they’re sending me something. Not sure what yet. 

I still don’t care for the battery situation. Trying to install 2 rows of 2 AA batteries stacked vertically and getting the battery cover on takes dexterity and fast hands. 

[Tom and Doreen]

2 hours ago, Galileo said:

Last season, the “new” lock stopped unlocking reliably - only withdrawing the deadbolt about halfway and requiring a second attempt to get in to the trailer. So, the “spare” gets re-installed. 

Several more emails and sending them a video of the lick not working and they say they’re sending me something. Not sure what yet. 

I've had this problem (twice) and I believe that it comes down to a mechanical tolerance and materials problem with the deadbolt mechanism.  In their design they purposely  overdrive the deadbolt motor ( since they don't have a sensor to determine the position of the deadbolt). When the deadbolt reaches the end of it's travel, motor torque increases and overcomes the friction material in the clutch mechanism allowing the clutch to rotate despite the fact that the deadbolt has reached the end of it's travel.  This allows the motor to continue to spin, preventing it from drawing excessive current and shortening its life.  I've forgotten their name for the clutch but it's a little barrel that contains a friction material that allows the motor to drive the deadbolt until excessive force (when the deadbolt reaches the end of it's travel) overcomes the friction material causing the clutch to spin freely thereby decoupling the motor from the deadbolt. The problem occurs  when the materials in the deadbolt mechanism bind or stick, overcoming the friction material in the clutch, resulting in the deadbolt not completing it's travel within the time that the motor is commanded to operate as determined by the electronics. The symptom is that the motor sounds normal, a confirmation beep is heard signaling end of travel of the deadbolt, but the door either doesn't lock or in my case did not unlock. 

In short,  by design the motor is commanded to run longer than the time that it normally takes for the deadbolt to complete a full travel and relies on the clutch to decouple it's mechanical connection to the deadbolt when the deadbolt reaches the end of it's travel. By doing so they eliminate deadbolt position sensors and save cost. It's clever providing it works reliably.  Anything within the transport that adds friction or causes binding can cause a problem. Another issue can be a weak clutch.  

The company is very good about supplying parts but leaves the repairs up to the customer which usually involves sending videos, sometimes removing the lock and operating the lock by itself while making another video, then waiting for parts which in some cases does not fix the problem and the cycle repeats. 

I like the lock, it's very convenient,  but I aways have my key in my pocket  which somewhat defeats the purpose.    
 

[routlaw]

I had thought about buying one of these as well, now I'm not so sure. Seems like another unreliable RV headache in its current iteration. 

[Galileo]

1 hour ago, routlaw said:

I had thought about buying one of these as well, now I'm not so sure. Seems like another unreliable RV headache in its current iteration. 

Probably a logical conclusion. 

The lock was part of the “Electronics Pro Package” that OTT offered as part of the initial trailer ordering. Pretty sure it was bundled with the rear camera, Auto drain, and the cell booster as well. 

I never use the rear camera (remote view screen too clunky) and I’m not convinced that the cell booster does much - if anything - to increase your cell signal. 

The keyless lock is the only part of that package that I found any value in. (OK - the auto drain - I forgot that was part of the package. Thought you be fair, “auto” is a bit of a misnomer as you have to actuate it manually.)

We use our trailer - and the door lock - A LOT. So I’m not sure that failing after two years is really terrible MTBF for something that may have been designed for being used for a couple of weeks a year. Then again, I’ve seen a lot of residential and commercial keyless locks that seem to last forever. Whether any of them is suited for use on an RV door is up for grabs. 

RVLock is sending me the parts “free” - no shipping charges this time. I did have to take a video, edit it down to be a small enough file to attach to an email, and took four tries to get it to send. (Yahoo never did work, had to use GMail).  

Edited June 26 by Galileo
Left out part of the Electronics Pro Package.

[jd1923]

2 hours ago, Galileo said:

I never use the rear camera (remote view screen too clunky) and I’m not convinced that the cell booster does much - if anything - to increase your cell signal. 

We're in agreement on this one! Ours might have been a Wi-Fi Ranger. I do remember testing it and it actually made the signal weaker! We went with a Pepwave router to stream on cell and a Starlink Mini for when there is no cell coverage.

I removed the Wi-Fi antenna, both cameras, gave away the (yes clunky) screen and the Sat Dish from our roof and patched all the fiberglass.

We have the manual door lock, now for 10+ years. After reading that the rubber contact pads were fading on these auto-locks, most of you with this feature were carrying keys just in case, and the deadbolt issue as Tom fully explained above, like @routlaw noted, I/we decided to pass on this upgrade. Good Customer Service is great, but if the product continues to fail it becomes nuisance, or worse if you truly get locked out!

I purchased a backup manual lock to have on the road if needed. I found a cool white powder coat model on sale vs. the original chrome latch. If you get tired of dealing with your auto-latch, you could go manual:

Amazon.com: Lippert Global Entry Door Latch Kit with Deadbolt, Keyed Lock, Two FIC Keys, Edge Cover Plate, Strike Plate, Mounting Screws for Travel Trailers - 239632, White : Automotive

Honestly, this clean white door latch looks better too!

The only thing that has failed on our entrance door is the screen door latch, so I replaced it with one of these:

Amazon.com: WanDwel Aluminum RV Screen Door Latch Handle Replacement Kit (Right Hand) Metal Camper Travel Trailer Motorhome Entry Parts for Passenger Side : Automotive

Edited June 26 by jd1923

[Mike and Carol]

5 hours ago, jd1923 said:

We have the manual door lock, now for 10+ years. After reading that the rubber contact pads were fading on these auto-locks, most of you with this feature were carrying keys just in case, and the deadbolt issue as Tom fully explained above, like @routlaw noted, I/we decided to pass on this upgrade. Good Customer Service is great, but if the product continues to fail it becomes nuisance, or worse if you truly get locked out!

We’ve got the manual door lock, too.  It’s one of those things (like the suburban hot water tank) that is simple and reliable.  One less thing to worry about when you are way out “there”.  Mike

[Galileo]

I figured if I got totally locked out - even though we kept a set of trailer keys in the truck - I can just slide a side window open from outside and climb in cat-burglar style. 

The 2025 Sierra has the keyless entry (fob in pocket or purse) which is reliable (so far)  and you can also unlock it with your smartphone. (Which is usually reliable - u less there’s no cell service…) So I’ve kinda gotten used up not using it needing a key. 

As I mentioned before - I know there are a lot of keyless locks around, though most likely not suitable for RVs. I’m sure there’s some other ones out there that are simpler and less prone to failure. 

As I also mentioned - using our trailer for several months at a time for five years now, I’m not going to gripe too much about things that quit working. I’ve had to replace the smoke alarm twice, the CO/propane detector, swap out the tire valve stem cores, stop the Truma water heater from sending fireballs out the side of the trailer, replace the television, yank out the awning seal,  replace the Nor-cold freezer hinges twice, the Furrion Stereo, one touch-light and another one failing, replace the black tank valve, patch up a leaky window frame,  tear the MaxxFan down to replace the motor, oh - and the dang Dometic A/C still sounds like a 747 with full takeoff power. 

(see there? You got me started….)

[jd1923]

On 6/26/2026 at 4:05 PM, Mike and Carol said:

We’ve got the manual door lock, too.  It’s one of those things (like the suburban hot water tank) that is simple and reliable.  One less thing to worry about when you are way out “there”.  Mike

Doesn't it look better too? Love the new white one installed! Sorry, but the keyless RV Lock isn't pretty nor reliable. Classic look for a classic TT! (Too bad they don't make a gray one.) These are powder-coated steel, solid as a rock.

I bought this a year ago and decided it was time to install it. The original chrome model lasted 10+ years, no failures, but the key cylinders were getting loose where you had to jiggle the key some to start it turning. Not anymore. Everything's tight, good for another 10 years!

[Galileo]

I don’t know that a black lock detracts from the appearance any more than the two emblems immediately to the left of the lock, the black door bumper, or the grey fridge vent. 

We haven’t been “locked out” of the trailer by either failure of the RVLock - but still have enjoyed not having to remember to take along a key for 5 years. 

Compared to everything else that has failed or broken in the trailer - the leaky windows, water heater that shoots out flames, black tank dump valve issues, massive air leaks, appliances that unplug themselves, freezer hinges that break, interior belly bands that fall off - and an air conditioner that is not compatible with human life - I’d say a door lock that requires service every two years is actually pretty good. 

(Is this horse dead yet?)

I wonder what the actual failure rate is. I’m hoping there are folks out there that have RVLocks that -haven’t- failed?!

[routlaw]

The differences from one year to the next with the Oliver travel trailers is amazing. Looking at @jd1923 door and lock compared to ours and where they decided to install the lock. Doubt I could even fit one of the RV Locks into that tight of a space. Looks like we will be content with the one we have which is fine.

[jd1923]

2 hours ago, Galileo said:

I don’t know that a black lock detracts from the appearance any more than the two emblems immediately to the left of the lock, the black door bumper, or the grey fridge vent.

It is larger, that round section with all those numbered keys, plastic parts. Reminds me of the keyless entry system I had on an 80s T-bird. It was cool 40 years ago but they stopped putting them on cars long ago.

I should remember to remove the "two emblems" before I renew our ceramic coating next time. I've removed every other label OTT plastered inside and out (about 20 of them)! In a post 3 years ago John E Davies wanted me to add warning labels to the rear emergency exit (just after I had removed them)! 🤣 I don't worry about code and insurance and all that rot.

I need to remove the "black door bumper." I removed the door hook from the fiberglass last year (drilled out 4 rivets and filled holes). Just add Lippert friction hinges and you don't need any of that stuff. Best simple mod ever!

Lippert Friction Hinge Kit for RV Entry Doors - White

Over 90% of the feedback I've received on our grey trim has been positive! I'll mark you down with one other longtime Oliver owner as not liking them. It is my appearance mod theme! We love it over having 10 shades of white all over the body (see pic).

2 hours ago, Galileo said:

Compared to everything else that has failed or broken in the trailer...

I’d say a door lock that requires service every two years is actually pretty good. 

Setting the bar awfully low! 🤣 I just replaced ours before it failed after 10 years of reliable service!

 

[jd1923]

15 minutes ago, routlaw said:

The differences from one year to the next with the Oliver travel trailers is amazing. Looking at @jd1923 door and lock compared to ours and where they decided to install the lock. Doubt I could even fit one of the RV Locks into that tight of a space. Looks like we will be content with the one we have which is fine.

That is amazing! Yours is just above the belly bar and ours just below. When you lift the curbside a few inches for leveling it puts the door handle rather high!

And yes, if you installed the keyless lock, it would be right up on the window frame. The chrome on your lock looks great. Ours had wear scratches from key use and a little bang in the latch from a prior owner. 

[ScottyGS]

12 minutes ago, jd1923 said:

Just add Lippert friction hinges and you don't need any of that stuff. Best simple mod ever!

 

Can you replace the top or middle hinge without removing the whole door?  In other words...  Just kind of remove one hinge and slip the replacement in the same location?  

btw... I kind of like the grey trim stuff... goes with the stripes. 

Thanks,

Scotty

[jd1923]

1 hour ago, ScottyGS said:

Can you replace the top or middle hinge without removing the whole door? 

Yes, you can Scotty and thank you! The grey trim matches the striping on the hull AND the lower body paint on my truck! 😎

I renewed all the outlet boxes with grey ones, even a new matching license plate light in grey! If only Lippert made a grey powder coated door lock! That would be a nice addition! And when I replace the door security glass with a grey-smoked glass maybe I should paint the frame in the same grey color as the fridge vents and other painted parts.

The entrance door has 3 hinges. You leave them as-is and insert 2 friction hinges in-between the 3 OEM hinges. The screen door gets in the way while working, but you can wiggle the friction hinges into place. I just centered them by eyeball, drilled the first hole and mounted the screw to hold the hinge in place. Then 12 screws per hinge!

The kit comes with self-tapping screws, but I prefer to drill pilot holes one size smaller. In the picture, the hinges that are riveted are the OEM hinges and where you see the square-drive screws is the friction hinge. A careful installation should only take a half hour.

The door hook has no value when you are opening or closing the door in windy conditions. Often you have to fight, holding the door, while trying to get it hooked. With these hinges installed the door can be at any angle and I promise a 40 MPH wind will not budge it. 😎

Never again hear that BANG! And btw it is the bang on that rubber stopper that cracks the interior sheeting of the door panel. If you look closely at the picture, looking through the screen, you can see the cracking of the interior sheeting. If friction hinges were installed OEM, I'm certain they wouldn't be there. As soon as I had heard of these hinges on our Forum, 2 1/2 years ago, I installed them. 

Why aren't Lippert Friction Hinges installed OEM by OTT?
Instead of the bumper and hook, they should be. 

Edited 1 minute ago by jd1923