Dexter Nev-R LubeTM Bearings – Will bearing replacement be necessary on the road?

[jd1923]

The idea here is to understand what is required to service Dexter Nev-R Lube Bearings while on the road given a bearing failure. Specific knowledge, parts, and tools are required and it’s important to be ready for this issue that is likely to occur, sooner or later.

Whether you are the person working the repairs or not, understanding this is equally important! Having the required bearing parts kits and the correct size bearing press tools would allow you to work this repair DIY, or at ANY local service shop, anywhere you happen to be in your travels when a bearing might fail. Without spares and tools, you’re stuck. No local repair shop will have the parts you need and very few would have the bearing press tools in the correct sizes on hand even if they have air tools and a press!

Note this recent statement from an Airstream owner:
“We're on a five week adventure and experienced a bearing failure that sidelined us for 5 days. I got the bearing from the local O'Reillys Parts Store...the other components I had to order from an online source. Despite all the Truck and Trailer industry in Oklahoma City, nobody had the spindle washer, nut or snap ring I needed. The bearing was easy to get and much cheaper than the Dexter option. It's the other parts that hold the hub on that can be challenging to find if you need it right now to get back on the road.”

Once you remove the bearing cap with a light chisel or similar tool, this is what you will see --

Edited August 20 by jd1923

[jd1923]

After safely jacking up the Oliver, and removing the wheel, the brake drum/hub must be removed. First you'll need an extremely light snap-ring pliers for the spindle nut keeper which is required to get the hub/drum off.

Then the spindle nut must be removed which requires an extremely large 1 7/16” socket. This nut is torqued to 150 lb-ft! You may need your spouse or travel partner to apply the TV brakes so that you can release this nut using a HD breaker bar. OR if you have a HIGH-Torque battery-powered 1/2" impact it makes this and several other tasks so much easier!🤣 Sockets of this size are generally 3/4” drive so you may also need a 3/4" to 1/2" socket adapter.

The main bearing-keeper snap-ring is HD! You'll need quite a HD snap-ring pliers and good hand strength! If you intend to have an auto or trailer service shop work the bearing replacement, they can also remove the larger snap-ring, but it’s good to have all he necessary tools of which any small service station may or may not possess!

These are the parts you would remove AND the same parts that may have to be replaced, besides the BEARING! I suggest having two complete bearing kits with you at all times.

Edited August 20 by jd1923
Added pic

[jd1923]

You will need a bearing kit:
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Bearings-Races-Seals-Caps/Dexter/31-73-3.html

Or you can save some money purchasing parts separately. The Chrysler PT Cruiser, 2010 and earlier used the same bearing as their front-wheel drive wheel bearings. You can find them here and 100 other auto parts stores. 
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1117862&cc=1441786&pt=1672&jsn=10543
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tmk-set49?seid=srese2&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Brands+|+T&utm_term=4581596235429750&utm_content=GSAPI+5ba2a4366829c

There's this company... Though I have no idea as to whether they are legit, but good prices as listed. Don't buy bearings here but it appears they have the correct snap-rings and perhaps other Nev-R Lube parts! 
https://www.easternmarine.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Nev-r-lube

And you need to get a bearing press. I suggest buying this even for those of you how would not entertain doing the work yourself. Most small shops will not have the correct size press fittings.
https://www.harborfreight.com/front-wheel-drive-bearing-remover-and-installer-kit-21-piece-63728.html

This kit is what I used it to remove and replace this this axle bearing! And you will NOT want to tote around this toolkit with you at 17x15x4" large and 25 LB heavy (though I could name a few Oliver Owners who would do so!). If you were to carry 6 LBS of numbered tools, as pictured... These are the tools i used.

Edited August 20 by jd1923

[jd1923]

The bearing comes out towards the outside, towards the side where the snap-ring keeps it place, as shown in the first picture above.

The first picture below shows the interior of the drum, the steel surface that the magnet grabs and on this side the opening to the wheel bearing is smaller. The bearing must be pushed through this smaller opening. In the second picture you can see the two sizes within the hub. It's a rather snug design!

You need the 11# press fitting to push the bearing out. On the other end will be the 001# stay, bolted through it all. You should apply wheel bearing grease on the bolt where it will be threaded, both sides of the washers. After you pull the bearing out about 3/4" or more, when it bottoms out, you will disassemble and start over adding the 17# sleeve for additional clearance (not enough bolt length requires doing this in two steps). Then continue to crank down until the bearing releases, just pops out of the hub!

I used the hand tools pictured which was doable but made the job tedious. A 1/2" impact would certainly help, so at home I used a HD pneumatic 1/2" impact to finish up. Remember, all auto shops have air tools and a 20 LB press would make butter out of pulling/pressing this bearing!   

This picture shows the hub of the drum now empty. You see the tools in order with the removed bearing inline. It came out nice and since it's a new part, it's going back in! 🤣 

 

Edited August 20 by jd1923

[jd1923]

Pushing the new bearing into the hub is much easier than pulling the old one. Apply some grease to to inside of the hub and reapply grease on the press bolt and washers.

You'll need the larger 05# press on the opposite side (as pictured). I used a 1 1/4" closed-end wrench to hold the bolt on the inside and a short 2x4 under the drum to hold the wrench up in place.

Edited August 20 by jd1923

[jd1923]

This is the bearing after pressed back in. You can feel it bottom out, when the air tool starts making a noise. Then the snap-ring fits into its groove. And we know the snap-ring is right when you grab one end by the hole, pull it towards the other end and the entire snap-ring stays in the groove while it circles around a bit.

[FloraFauna]

Wow!  Nice tutorial. 

[CRM]

Excellent job, thanks! I'm not worried at all now with swapping over to the Nev-R-Lube axles in the future.

In a pinch, I also wouldn't worry about re-using the snap rings, washer, or even the nut if I had to. I'd just pinch the nut slightly on the slotted end with a pair of vise grips and be on my way. Nice to see Dexter using high quality bearings in there from the factory, too.  

[mountainoliver]

Thanks John this takes the mystery out of the “new” Nev-R-Lube type axle that Oliver is now using. 

[Tom and Doreen]

Awesome job, thanks!!  You should start a YouTube channel! 

[Mike and Carol]

Good info, John.  Thanks!  Mike

[T-Oliver]

In 2017 when we purchased Hull 254

I purchased these tools

You have inspired me to figure out which bits I need from the kit 

Any suggestions for the size of the snap ring pliers

[jd1923]

4 hours ago, CRM said:

In a pinch, I also wouldn't worry about re-using the snap rings, washer, or even the nut if I had to. I'd just pinch the nut slightly on the slotted end with a pair of vise grips and be on my way. Nice to see Dexter using high quality bearings in there from the factory, too.

Agreed. If the bearing got badly damaged as it failed, it can cause damage to other parts but most of the time they would be reusable. I read somewhere that the spindle nut should not be reused and I do not believe pinching the nut would help any as this is hardened steel. But when asked on eTrailer, the rep replied as follows --

Does the Spindle Nut Need to be Replaced on Nev-R Lube Axles?

Edited August 20 by jd1923

[jd1923]

1 hour ago, T-Oliver said:

You have inspired me to figure out which bits I need from the kit 

Any suggestions for the size of the snap ring pliers

Your kit looks about the same. If they use different numbering, let me know and I can measure the parts and list sizes here.

Re snap ring pliers, I have a full Blue Point set which is the Snap-On company value brand. You want the smallest possible since the holes in the little ring are pin-sized. Then you want the largest possible as the bearing snap-ring is large and heavy to compress.

[dhaig]

Quote

@jd1923, thanks for the excellent documentation on Nev-r Lube bearing replacement.  For those of use who have not yet had the need to replace a Nev-r Lube wheel bearing on our trailers, I have a few questions:

• Do you know the approximately mileage on the failed bearing?
• How did you discover the need to replace the bearing?  Noise? Inspection by rotating the wheel while lifted off the ground?
• When the need for replacement was discovered, did you replace the bearing immediately, or limp home to perform the replacement?
• It appears you are recommending owners of OTTs equipped with the Nev-r Lube bearings invest in the Harbor Freight press kit, but carry onboard only the 6 pounds of necessary tools from the kit to ensure the job could be performed by any competent brake/suspension repair shop wherever the failure happens to occur.
• Did you elect to replace the bearings on the other 3 wheels at the same time?

I have a 2022 LEII, which I believe is the first model year for which the Nev-R Lube axles were standard equipment from Oliver.  I do not recall seeing other forum postings on the need to replace the Nev-r Lube bearings.  I have seen many postings on performing the annual bearing packing ritual for non-Nev-R Lube bearings.  I am trying to get some idea of the expected life of the Nev-R Lube bearings.  Our LEII has 17,000 miles.  I assume checking for bearing noise when checking for brake pad wear should be routine.

Thanks, Don

 

[jd1923]

6 hours ago, Tom and Doreen said:

Awesome job, thanks!!  You should start a YouTube channel! 

Ha! That's what Chris said when she read this post! I teach a PMP Prep class virtually on Zoom, a half-day at a time on camera... That's enough for me, though I do enjoy teaching and helping colleagues, giving back to the community! 😂

[jd1923]

@dhaig Don, great questions!

I'll write up replies when I get time tonight...

[katanapilot]

Wouldn’t it be easier and potentially only a little more expensive to carry a spare hub complete with bearings?  Not at all familiar with the Never Lube setup - but the thought of trying to R&R a defective bearing(s) on the Alcan in grizzly country might give me pause. 

Edited August 20 by katanapilot

[CRM]

1 hour ago, katanapilot said:

Wouldn’t it be easier and potentially only a little more expensive to carry a spare hub complete with bearings?  Not at all familiar with the Never Lube setup - but the thought of trying to R&R a defective bearing(s) on the Alcan in grizzly country might give me pause. 

I think cost would be the biggest issue. You could probably buy 10 or more sets of bearings for the price of one replacement hub kit.

[jd1923]

1 hour ago, katanapilot said:

Wouldn’t it be easier and potentially only a little more expensive to carry a spare hub complete with bearings?

45 minutes ago, CRM said:

I think cost would be the biggest issue. You could probably buy 10 or more sets of bearings for the price of one replacement hub kit.

For sure, but not a "little more expensive" but A LOT MORE EXPENSIVE! I don't get the pricing structure re the Nev-R Lube 6-on-5.5" hub/drum assemblies. We can special order a full axle for a little more than $1000, but one hub/drum assembly alone is $650 plus tax! There is also the space consideration. These 12" drums are large and heavy.

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hubs-and-Drums/Dexter/8-388-80UC3.html

[katanapilot]

Understood.  I carry a spare 10” hub with new bearings, but it was pretty inexpensive.  

[jd1923]

8 hours ago, dhaig said:

@jd1923, thanks for the excellent documentation on Nev-r Lube bearing replacement.  For those of use who have not yet had the need to replace a Nev-r Lube wheel bearing on our trailers, I have a few questions:

I have a 2022 LEII, which I believe is the first model year for which the Nev-R Lube axles were standard equipment from Oliver.  I do not recall seeing other forum postings on the need to replace the Nev-r Lube bearings.  I have seen many postings on performing the annual bearing packing ritual for non-Nev-R Lube bearings.  I am trying to get some idea of the expected life of the Nev-R Lube bearings.  Our LEII has 17,000 miles.  I assume checking for bearing noise when checking for brake pad wear should be routine.

Thanks, Don

Do you know the approximately mileage on the failed bearing?
Zero miles. I did this work on a brand new drum-hub assembly that was removed from an axle damaged during shipping. This drum was untouched and I wanted to learn this procedure and prove it can be worked on the road when needed.

How did you discover the need to replace the bearing?  Noise? Inspection by rotating the wheel while lifted off the ground?
You are towing close to 6000 miles a year. You should check your bearings and brakes annually or realistically every other year (I'm always on the realistic schedule, so much to do with limited time to do so). I jack up the Oliver using the stabilizer jacks. Get each wheel off the ground and spin them. The Nev-R Lube bearing should make no discernable noise. Listen to the bearing first. If hearing is not one of your keen attributes use some kind of conduit or device to listen more closely. Any slight dragging or scraping sound means the bearing is worn to some extent. Bad sounds, replace it while home vs. chancing failure on the road. If I had 30K on a trailer and ONE bearing was making bad noise, I would replace all 4 at home and have another 5 years of safe travel, period! Preventive Maintenance is a science.

These Nev-R Lube bearings can last less than one year, or 100K miles over 5 years. Check the forums, it just depends (and perhaps due more on installation precision vs. component manufacturing).

Then you should check the brakes. Generally when working an inspection of brakes they will be somewhat loose, and the rear axle will be looser than the front. Do this after bearing inspection as you want the shoes loose so that noises you hear first would be associated wit' "da bearings" vs. "da shoes." There are two inspection ports on the back of the brake backing plate (when you order new axles these are left open, buy an 8-pack of plugs)! You want to tighten the self-adjusters until you hear and feel the shoes making light contact with the drums, softly scraping.

Next, have the TV connected and have a helper hit the brake pedal or pull the lever on the brake controller and feel, yes feel for yourself, that the brakes are engaging as they should! When you feel it, you will understand. 🤣

If you do no feel it and believe you did everything right...
Check the amperage to the drum brakes, troubleshoot that!

It appears you are recommending owners of OTTs equipped with the Nev-r Lube bearings invest in the... Harbor Freight press kit, but carry onboard only the 6 pounds of necessary tools from the kit to ensure the job could be performed by any competent brake/suspension repair shop wherever the failure happens to occur.

Exactly! First, make sure you have 2-4 bearings and 1-2 sets of replacement snap-rings, main washers and spindle nuts.

You can carry a 25 LB LARGE Bearing Press kit, or you can know which fittings you need. One reason I did this work was first to show it could be done and second to document the correct tools and press plate sizes we need! If you have the correct sizes of bearing press parts, you're more than half-way there! Trust me and bring this small toolset, or bring the entire bearing press kit and you could help any stranger along the way! 🤣 

[dhaig]

@jd1923, I agree with your preventative maintenance philosophy and with having the right tools to deal with necessary repairs.  I would rather spend the time and, if necessary, the money to address maintenance/repairs at home, or in nearby shops, rather than some remote location while traveling.

Your description of checking the brakes and tightening the self-adjusters caused me a flashback to teenage years and a hands-on lesson in replacing brakes shoes and rebuilding wheel cylinders, under my Dad's direction.  I still have the brake adjustment lever tool acquired then.

Due to the limited storage space and desire to avoid adding unnecessary weight, I am inclined to adopt your approach, to carry only the critical bearing press fittings you have identified and a couple of sets of replacement bearings and associated parts.  On the road, I would be most likely to seek out the nearest shop to perform the repair.  Failure of wheel bearings is among the few potentially disabling items on the trailer.  Failure of other items, such as water pumps may be inconvenient, but not likely to prevent returning home.

I will add to my maintenance list an annual check of the bearings and brakes by lifting the wheels of the ground.  Thanks for your detailed responses to my questions.

Regards, Don

[Patriot]

Great write up and valuable information for the DYIer @jd1923. When I had Oliver Service swap my original axles out two years ago for the never lubes, I was told so far they had not seen or heard of a reported failure of the Never lube bearings on Olivers. At the time of my swap out, I believe there were over 200 trailers sold with the Neverlube bearings. None the less still always an inspection items along with the brake system.

We can only hope these never lube bearings are never fail. 😊

Edited August 21 by Patriot

[Rolind]

Thanks so much for the write up.  It taught me a lot. I also learned I need to upgrade my annual inspection process.