Changing tires in the wild - lessons learned

[John Dorrer]

19 hours ago, Steve Morris said:

I've not acted on advice to switch to steel valve stems while using our TST tire pressure monitor. Yesterday, that procrastination bit me in the ass on my way home from the Hungry Mother Fiberglass Rally in Virginia.

Rapid Pressure Loss" or similar wording was what the monitor said with a constant loud beeping. A quick look in my mirror showed the front left trailer tire was indeed low. Stopped to check, and with 28 PSI showing, I elected to slowly drive to the next exit, and found a flat spot in a gas station lot. The rubber valve stem was partially separated from the rubber base, and if flexed, dumped out pressurized air. No fixing that on the spot! Time to change tires.

I have all the tools needed, and it was a cool sunny day, so that was a bit of luck. It had been raining a few hours earlier. I didn't have my impact driver with me, but I do have an 18" breaker bar, so I could loosen the lug nuts. Before jacking up and removing the tire, though, it was time to get the spare. Two heavy e-bikes made this a chore, but fortunately, that's when a large fellow stopped and offered to help. (Oddly enough, the local deputy sheriff who was using the facilities at the station never even checked to see if we needed anything on his way out of the parking lot.) With his help, we slid the rack and mount out far enough to get to the spare. His impact driver made for a faster swap than my breaker bar, and his torque wrench was easier to get to than mine buried in the trailer's basement. All in all, about an hour and a bit delay, and the kind gentleman who stopped to help refused any remuneration.

  - I usually only carry the impact driver with me on long trips. And while this was about an eight hour drive, I'd elected not to bring it with me. It will now be included in every trip.
 - I'll be removing the bike rack mount and cleaning those surfaces and applying a dry lube to make it easier to slide the rack in and out. After we were done, I was really re-thinking John Davies choice to not use the fiberglass tire cover while toting bicycles!
 - I will be changing to all steel valve stems before we leave on our next trip!

I was lucky, we had a slow leak so we could fill and get home. We went to a truck tire place and they vacuumed out balance beads and installed metal valve stems.

 

Edited October 29 by John Dorrer
Typo

[Geronimo John]

On 9/28/2025 at 6:17 PM, ADKCamper said:

My deep socket gets stuck as well… with both the closest sae and metric sizes. I suspect poor quality control on the chrome-covered lug nuts’ outer dimensions.

This issue has been a long running one.  Some time ago I copie Frank's post:

OE2 LUG NUTS:  Frank 😄  For anyone getting replacement lug nuts, make sure you get the proper type for aluminum wheels.  The correct ones are the “bulge acorn” type which have a larger conical seating surface for use on aluminum wheels.  Aluminum wheels are softer than steel wheels and require the larger seating surface.  The ones installed by Oliver are the correct bulge acorn type so get the same style.   “Acorn” type have a smaller conical face and are for steel rims.  JPR:  COMPARE SPECIFICATIONS!  24 required.

I believe it was MaxBurner that turned me on th these chrome plated lug nuts from Summit Racing.  My regular sockets work well with them and no interference with the wheel rims on our 2019.

 

 

 

 

Edited Tuesday at 05:32 PM by Geronimo John
Edited finish per Steve & Ma. Thanks Steve!

[Steve and MA]

26 minutes ago, Geronimo John said:

these stainless steel lug nuts from Summit Racing.  My regular sockets work well with them and no interference with the wheel rims on our 2019.

 

The Summit sourced lug nuts are chrome plated steel, not stainless steel.  The OEM Lionshead Jaguar wheels on our 2022 LE2 have steel lug nut inserts. The contact between lug nut and wheel is steel against the lug nut, not lug nut directly against the aluminum.  There are stainless steel lug nuts available, but none that are bulge acorn. Show me if you know otherwise.

Bulge acorn vs. acorn is irrelevant due to the steel lug inserts on the Lionshead wheels. From what I can see, the contact between the insert and lug is the same whether the acorn nut is the bulge style or not. I don't know if the aluminum wheels on other year models had steel lug inserts.  If not, then use the bulge acorn style.

If you want to use stainless steel acorn (non -bulge) lug nuts, then keep in mind there's a risk of galling, which effectively welds the lug nut to the stud. Avoid use of impact tools to remove/replace the lug nuts to mitigate this risk.  

Steve

[Boudicca908]

10 hours ago, Steve and MA said:

there's a risk of galling

This has been one of the more informative threads I've read in some time. All kinds of lessons to be learned. Thanks to all.

[Geronimo John]

On 11/24/2025 at 7:08 PM, Steve and MA said:

If not, then use the bulge acorn style.

Steve:  

Thanks for the correction.  I updated my post accordingly to "Chrome Plated" steel.

Our 2018 OTT rims came with the “bulge acorn” style.  Replaced them with the same style as recommended by Frank and by MaxBurner sold by Summit.  They have worked very well and my standard sockets work with them.  I do use a Dewalt 20V impact to remove and snug up.  But for the final three tightening stages by torque wrench.   (Retorque in three stages (60, 80 and 95/100 ft-#).

GJ

Edited Wednesday at 10:52 PM by Geronimo John
typo

[Ollie-Haus]

My emergency tire service kit includes the following. The reason I carry these items is they take up little space and stow in an easy access location like under the back seat of the truck or in the front tongue box on the Oliver. 

The Milwaukee charger is mounted on the side wall of our truck bed for anytime access. With that out of the soft case, the impact socket set fits nicely inside the soft case with the light and impact wrench so everything is together. 

I like having a tire plug kit along because a screw or nail in the tire is the most common cause and as mentioned earlier is the easiest fix and can be done with wheel still mounted to trailer. All these items fit neatly in a small space and are invaluable for getting you safely back on the road in a tire emergency. The most important thing is to try if possible to do an emergency repair away from traffic on a hard level surface.

There are other tools you can have along to do a more thorough repair, but this set of tools will get you back on the road and safely to the closest tire shop if needed.  

This wrench fully charged has enough charge to remove all four wheels on your truck or trailer. The batteries will stay charged for many months in storage.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M12-FUEL-12V-Li-Ion-Brushless-Cordless-Stubby-1-2-in-Impact-Wrench-Kit-w-2-5-0Ah-1-2-5-Ah-High-Output-Batteries-2563-22-48-11-2450/337134504

The sockets are extra deep so you won't need an extension even with a torque wrench.  If needed you can remove the protective sleeve on the socket to fit the lug nut in the wheel. Three sizes to fit most automotive lug nut sizes.

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C98ZHKQX?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_7&th=1

12V Milwaukee work light is indispensable in many ways and uses the same battery as the impact wrench.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BRZ31ZFS?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Tire plug kits come in many types and sizes. I personally like the mushroom style plugs.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FK4SNRBG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

 

Edited Wednesday at 12:27 AM by Ollie-Haus

[Geronimo John]

I carry pretty much the same roadside kit.  I also carry a Dewalt 20V air compressor.

GJ

Edited Thursday at 04:47 AM by Geronimo John
Typo 20V air compressor.

[Ollie-Haus]

19 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

I carry pretty much the same roadside kit.  I also carry a Dewalt 12V air compressor.

GJ

I have a built in compressor on the truck but yes, absolutely need some type of built in or portable air compressor. I personally favor the Milwaukee M18 portable compressor, which happens to be nicely discounted for Black Friday  at this time:

https://www.homedepot.com/pep/Milwaukee-M18-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Inflator-with-2-5-0Ah-Batteries-and-Charger-2848-20-48-59-1852B/326514175

 

Edited Wednesday at 10:34 PM by Ollie-Haus

[Geronimo John]

Chris: 

I have to agree that likely the Milwaukee line isbetter quality than the DeWalt line for just about everything.  At a cost penalty of course.  But the 20V vs. 18V difference compensates a bit though.  

In 2018 I wanted to "lighten up" my industrial tools for use in our travel gear.   I was replacing my ancient (Seriously WW2 vintage) drill, impact and masonary drill.  My oldest son inherited these monsters.  At the time I went with the DeWalt line.  One of the deciding factors was a common 20V battery, as that's the real cost factor in all of the 18/20V class lines. Since then I have acquired Dewalt multi-tool and a grinder.  Have not needed to buy any additional batteries.  Knock on wood....

I love my Dewalts.  But, if one were to offer a 1 for 1 trade to the Milwaukee line.... I would join you.  So long as I didn't have to pay for the swap.  🙂

 The only Dewalt 20 V that I don't recommend is their "skill saw" my son-in-law purchased.  It is a battery eater 2X/day.  All the others can generally work all day on a charge while doing carpentry work.  

 

 

 

[Geronimo John]

On 9/24/2025 at 6:47 PM, Steve and MA said:

As already mentioned, the electric jacks can be used for tire changing as long as you're still hitched and the TV parking brake is set.

Very EXCELLENT!

Please add:  ON LEVEL GROUND and tie a ribbon on the steering wheel to indicate "No Move".  

I also use the OEM jacks for all my maintenance efforts.  When on level ground.  Why? The jack forces are  compressive down the jack leg.  On a slope the forces are compressive and sheer.  These jacks are not designed for sheer forces.  For that you would need a "floor jack".  Not something to carry cross country.

Safety John

[Ollie-Haus]

3 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

Chris: 

I have to agree that likely the Milwaukee line isbetter quality than the DeWalt line for just about everything.  At a cost penalty of course.  But the 20V vs. 18V difference compensates a bit though.  

In 2018 I wanted to "lighten up" my industrial tools for use in our travel gear.   I was replacing my ancient (Seriously WW2 vintage) drill, impact and masonary drill.  My oldest son inherited these monsters.  At the time I went with the DeWalt line.  One of the deciding factors was a common 20V battery, as that's the real cost factor in all of the 18/20V class lines. Since then I have acquired Dewalt multi-tool and a grinder.  Have not needed to buy any additional batteries.  Knock on wood....

I love my Dewalts.  But, if one were to offer a 1 for 1 trade to the Milwaukee line.... I would join you.  So long as I didn't have to pay for the swap.  🙂

 The only Dewalt 20 V that I don't recommend is their "skill saw" my son-in-law purchased.  It is a battery eater 2X/day.  All the others can generally work all day on a charge while doing carpentry work.  

 

 

 

Totally agree, you stick with the brand and size of battery system you start with. I chose Milwaukee because that's what I used for years at work and was able through work to get significant discounts at the time. Not to start over in retirement, I've continued with the brand. One thing we can do now when replacing an old tool is to buy the new brushless version of tools when available by most companies that offer more powerful and much more efficient motors in the tools that make the batteries last much longer. 

I have had Dewalt tools a few years ago and loved them and actually still have a drill that still works fine. Regardless of brand, having the right tools on board when out on the road can make for quick and easy repairs and less downtime in an unexpected emergency.👍 

PS: If you shop at Home Depot and compare the two brands, you actually get a much better price with the Milwaukee if you are buying the whole kit with batteries. The Milwaukee comes with two larger batteries and charger for a considerably lower price than the similar DeWalt kit which only includes one smaller battery at a higher price. Home Depot is definitely the source for deep discounts on Milwaukee tools. 

 

[Geronimo John]

For sure on getting the kits.  Also having a smaller (2AH) and a larger (5AH) battery packs.  I generally use the 5AH in the air compressor and the 2AH in everything else.

I guess we should unhijack this thread.  Sorry John and Jodi!

John and Jodi: 

What tires were on your trailer? 

Having two tires to fail sounds like a thread we  posted earlier this year.  🙂

GJ

DIY - Two Flat Tires On An OE2.docx

[Ronbrink]

Last week at Galveston Island SP, used my tire plug kit to repair where a screw was causing a slow leak. Tried doing it with the tire still mounted, but those Load Range E tires are really stout and ended up having to remove to get more leverage. The Bottle Jack/Jack Stand, VIAIR, DeWalt impact wrench, assorted lug nut sockets and torque limiting impact extension bars all came into play! Upon return home I ordered a heftier tire plug kit and will put the former in the wife’s SUV. Bottom line, BE PREPARED! 

Edited Thursday at 02:26 PM by Ronbrink

[Steve Morris]

Be careful with inexpensive tire repair kits. Over the years I have read several reports of the plastic handles failing, impaling the drill in the operators hand. If you've never done a repair, I would suggest practicing on a junk tire. It is a lot harder than it looks to push the drill through an E-rated tire! A battery drill makes it much easier.

I've had this set from ARB for about 10 years, and fortunately have only had to use it once:
https://ok4wd.com/arb-speedy-seal-tire-repair-kit-arb10000011/

[Ronbrink]

5 hours ago, Steve Morris said:

Over the years I have read several reports of the plastic handles failing, impaling the drill in the operators hand.

So true. The former are solid plastic and better suited for the passenger tires on the SUV. The new tools are solid aluminum and a much better fit for the intended purpose. Definitely shy away from the cheap plastic ones that can’t withstand the excessive forces needed for our trailer tires!

[Ronbrink]

7 hours ago, Steve Morris said:

It is a lot harder than it looks to push the drill through an E-rated tire! A battery drill makes it much easier.

Good point, and it’s even harder pushing the plug in as far as recommended. I ended up using liquid dish soap to lubricate, did the trick! Some kits come with either a lubricant or a sealant, which serves as the lubricant. 

[Geronimo John]

On 11/27/2025 at 1:53 PM, Ronbrink said:

Good point, and it’s even harder pushing the plug in as far as recommended. I ended up using liquid dish soap to lubricate, did the trick! Some kits come with either a lubricant or a sealant, which serves as the lubricant. 

Once I had to get out a drill and make a hole so I could get the plut into the leak.  Wasted an hour trying to do so before the light bulb came on.

I also have had leaks in the main tread area that took three plugs to slow them down.  Even with three, it still leaked, but slow enough that I could get off the mountain by re-airing up twice.  Good idea to have an air compressor of some sort!

GJ