Moving Stabilizer Jack Switches

[Tony and Rhonda]

I've tried searching the forum but haven't had any luck finding what I'm after so....

My 2017 hull has the stabilizer jack rocker switches located at the front of the trailer. This is not so convenient since I can't see the jacks during operation. I've noticed the newer trailers have the switches behind the basement door so the are jacks visible. Has anyone moved their switches? This seems like a fairly straight forward mod but I've been surprised before. Thoughts, comments?

Thanks,

Tony

[topgun2]

Tony -

I agree - this should not be a difficult mod.

However, I do not recall any post from the past that talked about actually doing this.

Good luck.

Bill

[Mike and Carol]

Like BIll, I don’t know of anyone who has moved their switches.  If they are in the back you would be able to monitor the jack on that side but not the other side.  I prefer them on the front so I can use the bubble level on the front jack to get the trailer approximately level.  I’ve found that when retracting the jacks I estimate about an inch per second, then I do a visual check before finishing.  Mike  

[Geronimo John]

16 hours ago, Mike and Carol said:

then I do a visual check before finishing.  Mike  

Amen to that!  Not doing the check and moving Ollie ultimately will make you cry....

[SeaDawg]

Our 2008 has the switch at the wheelwell, just above each wheel and jack.

Pros and cons to each placement,  I guess.

 

Edited November 23, 2025 by SeaDawg

[Tony and Rhonda]

I got the idea of moving the switches while watching @shhQuiet's videos. It does seem there are positives and negatives of the two (or three) locations. I have lots of chores I need to do on the camper so I can put this on the back burner and think about it some more.

Thanks everyone for your imput, Tony

[ScubaRx]

On 11/22/2025 at 7:19 PM, SeaDawg said:

Our 2008 has the switch at the wheelwell, just above each wheel and jack.

Pros and cons to each placement,  I guess.

We bought our first Travel Trailer in early 2008. It was Oliver Hull #026, one of the first group of 46 Oliver Elites built between 2007 and 2009. As some of our members probably already know, the trailer line shut down in late 2009 due to a dramatic sag in the economy. No employees were laid off, instead they were moved into other areas of Oliver such as the tub line.

Standard equipment on one of the original Elites included a satellite dish on the roof, an electric cord reel that automatically rewound the power cord back into the body, air conditioner, heater, television, audio system, microwave, refrigerator, outside retractable awning, bathroom and three electric leveling (yes, leveling) jacks. Some of these items had optional availability on other fiberglass trailers (Casita, Bigfoot, Escape, etc.) but not one of those manufacturers had all of them as standard equipment and a good many items on that list were not even available at any cost. All this on a trailer that was selling for under $30K.

The electric leveling jacks were the absolute stand out among the fiberglass trailer crowd. No other fiberglass trailer manufacturer even offered them. But with them, you could stabilize and level your trailer with the touch of only three buttons. And, as Sherry stated, the rear jack switches were located near each tire and the jacks could be observed while operating them. 

As the new Elite II builds were coming together it was realized that the outside body molds were different from the ones in the old Elite and the area where the Elite rear jack switches had been located was completely different and there was no place for the switches to go. They asked where they should be mounted and I had them place mine in waterproof boxes built into the sides of the trailer. I also had them extend the wiring from those switches into the left and right areas of the overhead cabinet in the rear. After delivery, I used that extra wiring to make remote inside switches to control the rear jacks. I did the same for the front jack. Now we can comfortably setup or breakdown in the rain using the controls on the inside.

Sometime in early 2015, about a year after we had taken possession of the first Oliver Elite II produced in 2014 (Hull # 050), we were at the factory for some reason. John Oliver, (Jim and Evon’s youngest and only child) who was over production of the trailer line at the time, approached me and asked my opinion on a modification they were planning. The placement of the rear jack switches had always created an issue and their new plan was to move them to the front of the trailer where they would be near the front jack. “Now”, he said, “all the jacks can be controlled from a central area. What do you think?” My reply was that I thought it was a “...terrible idea.” I explained that you need to be able to observe the jack while operating it. He disagreed. I told him that I would hate it and I figured the future owners would hate it and the company would have to eventually backtrack and move them back to the rear. It took a while for them to do something about it but I can’t tell you how many times I was questioned by owners as to WHO thought it would be a good idea to put those switches at the FRONT of the trailer. 

And now you know the rest of the story... 

Edited November 24, 2025 by ScubaRx

[topgun2]

I don't know if I'm in the minority or not - but - I happen to like the rear jack switches located on the front of my Ollie.

Unlike Mike, I found the bubble level that is on the top of the front jack to be virtually useless.  So, I installed three small bubble levels on or near the front of the Ollie.  All three are right at the "belly" line where the top and bottom shells are joined.  The first one is just above the front jack, the second is basically under the bath window and the third near the front door.  These levels are much more accurate and sensitive than the one on the front jack and can be observed with a simple step in one direction or the other.  I also didn't hurt that they were very inexpensive and are attached with exterior double sided tape.

Finally, even though I very seldom use the rear jacks, when I do I use 6x6 blocks under those jacks.  This makes positioning easy (in most cases) with one quick look to make sure that the jack and block are properly aliened.

Perhaps, the "perfect solution would be to have three way switches so that these switches could be placed in BOTH the front and the rear which would allow for the use in either location depending on the situation.  Having thought about this solution, I'm marginally surprised that ScubaRx has not done this type of mod (note that if you ever get a chance to see ALL of the switches that he and Tali have in their Ollie, you will see what I mean here).

Bill

Edited November 24, 2025 by topgun2

[jd1923]

On 11/24/2025 at 7:48 AM, topgun2 said:

I don't know if I'm in the minority or not - but - I happen to like the rear jack switches located on the front of my Ollie.

Unlike Mike, I found the bubble level that is on the top of the front jack to be virtually useless.  So, I installed three small bubble levels on or near the front of the Ollie.

I'm with Bill and Mike on this one (except for the bubble levels thing)!

I prefer to have all 3 jack controls in one location and the best possible location for all 3 is up front, right where they're installed! I back into our spot with the LevelMatePRO App ON (hardwired and always powered ON) to get as close to level as possible. We use the Andersen Rapid Jacks on one side when needed and then place the 8" round Andersen Blocks under the rear jacks. Next I'll place some sum of 1" blocks up front to achieve the best height.

First I'll get the rear jacks to just touch (often in lieu of wheel chocks when the campsite is mostly level). I don't need to see them, I just listen to the motor, use your ears instead of your eyes! The motor will change pitch, just start to grind, when contact is made (first I turn off our noisy old diesel)! 

Then lift the front jack to release from the TV hitch, bring up the rears a little more and finish level using the LevelMatePRO App. We like to have the front up 0.5" and level side-to-side. No way you can be this exacting with a bubble level and the LevelMate can be used starting from the driver's seat!

Adding the LevelMatePRO will be something you'll never regret! Get the PRO model which can be hardwired, easiest to mount under rear dinette seat (see pic). Add this great accessory, train your ears, and leave the switches alone! 😎

Edited December 6, 2025 by jd1923

[Geronimo John]

On 12/6/2025 at 6:33 AM, jd1923 said:

I don't know if I'm in the minority or not - but - I happen to like the rear jack switches located on the front of my Ollie.

Unlike Mike, I found the bubble level that is on the top of the front jack to be virtually useless.  So, I installed three small bubble levels on or near the front of the Ollie.

If so, we are a minority of two!

GJ

[topgun2]

10 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

If so, we are a minority of two!

Three.

[Ronbrink]

On 12/6/2025 at 10:33 AM, jd1923 said:

We use the Andersen Rapid Jacks on one side when needed and then place the 8" round Andersen Blocks under the rear jacks.

I use the standard Andersen levelers, as necessary, to raise one side or the other when backing up the last few inches. These standard levelers provide 1/2 to 4” of lift; whereas the Andersen Rapid Jack you mention provides for 7” lift, designed mostly for use with tandem axles to facilitate tire change. I primarily use the Rapid Jack laid on side for the 6” of base it provides under the front stabilizer jack. On rare occasion a site is level enough and thus, the standard levelers are not needed; in this situation the wedge chocks, generally paired with said levelers, are used to simply stabilize one tire (front and back) to keep the trailer from rolling when unhitched. As shown in the first pic, the round Andersen Jack Blocks used under each rear stabilizer jack. I have since changed those for Weigh Safe Flap Jack Blocks, which are much more compact when stowed.

 

[Mike and Carol]

1 hour ago, topgun2 said:

Three.

Four.

[Mike and Carol]

On 11/24/2025 at 8:48 AM, topgun2 said:

Unlike Mike, I found the bubble level that is on the top of the front jack to be virtually useless.

I use the front bubble level to get initial level information as I’m setting up.  I follow up with a 12” torpedo level and then adjust my bubble level (if needed).  It’s easy to adjust.  I should probably look at attaching levels around the trailer, might save a little time during set up.

Any recommendations?  Mike

[topgun2]

29 minutes ago, Mike and Carol said:

 I should probably look at attaching levels around the trailer, might save a little time during set up.

Any recommendations?  Mike

I didn't like the huge ones that some have used.

So, I simply got a 3 of them at WalMart like THESE.

Bill

p.s.  I put one under the bath window, a second exactly opposite it just before the front door and a third right on the nose of the trailer - all three are right at the belly line.  Also, mine are white - not the grey shown on the Amazon link.

[Ronbrink]

1 hour ago, Mike and Carol said:

I use the front bubble level to get initial level information as I’m setting up.  I follow up with a 12” torpedo level and then adjust my bubble level (if needed).  It’s easy to adjust.  I should probably look at attaching levels around the trailer, might save a little time during set up.

Any recommendations?  Mike

Like many I use an electronic device staged in the Oliver, which can be monitored from the driver’s seat whether searching for a desirable (somewhat level) spot when boondocking or parking at a designated site pad. Even with these devices, one must initially use a bubble level in the calibration process and routine checks for device accuracy. Once set, these devices are fairly reliable … until they’re not! The LevelMatePRO served us well for several years, but was not without issues; primarily battery life and connectivity regarding its sleep habits! I recently changed to the Beech Lane Wireless RV Leveling System in hope it will outperform the former. One thing that became very apparent in achieving my ‘optimum level’, was in respect to that of the Norcold 3-Way fridge. I found that having the Norcold absolutely level overrides that of the trailer proper. That said, I use the top of the fridge door as the benchmark when calibrating both past and current leveling devices. Keeping the Norcold ‘happy’ is paramount and a very close second to that of the wife! All of my past woes regarding the Norcold can be contributed to the aforementioned and easily mitigated with proper levelness. For convenience, I carry a folding level in a galley drawer. ‘Nuff said!

 

Edited Saturday at 04:56 PM by Ronbrink

[jd1923]

On 12/6/2025 at 9:33 AM, jd1923 said:

Adding the LevelMatePRO will be something you'll never regret! Get the PRO model which can be hardwired, easiest to mount under rear dinette seat...

Get out of the dark ages guys (more info in my post above). Bubble levelers, ha! 🤣

2 hours ago, Ronbrink said:

These standard levelers provide 1/2 to 4” of lift; whereas the Andersen Rapid Jack you mention provides for 7” lift, designed mostly for use with tandem axles to facilitate tire change.

Then I used the wrong product term 'Rapid' as we also use the 4" levelers. I use two Andersen 8" round blocks under the rear stabilizers and a stack of 1" blocks for the main hitch jack, sometimes very few and other times many are needed. And no need for a tire change jack on an Oliver!

[Ronbrink]

5 minutes ago, jd1923 said:

Get out of the dark ages guys (more info in my post above). Bubble levelers, ha! 🤣

Then I used the wrong product term 'Rapid' as we also use the 4" levelers. I use two Andersen 8" round blocks under the rear stabilizers and a stack of 1" blocks for the main hitch jack, sometimes very few and other times many are needed. And no need for a tire change jack on an Oliver!

I often tell myself “life is too short to always stay confused”. Thanks for helping clean up one mess in my mind! 

[Geronimo John]

2 hours ago, jd1923 said:

Get out of the dark ages guys (more info in my post above). Bubble levelers, ha!

Hey JD!  I resemble that slight!   I use a 6" torpedo level.  Don't need the accuracy of a foot long torpedo!  Besides the only foot long I get is at COSTCO for $1.50.  LOL

[Tony and Rhonda]

We've installed a LevelMate Pro and it seems to work well. I ran into an issue when zeroing it out. Front to back wasn't a problem but our Ollie has a slight crown right to left. I tried to split the difference when calibrating the LevelMate Pro.

@Ronbrink's post above about leveling his Norcold has me rethinking this. We had issues with a non-working furnace in another RV when the rig wasn't level. Don't want this to happen with the Ollie.

We also have the 3-way Norcold. As @Ronbrink mentions, the top of the frig door should work for front to back. What about right to left? Are the internal shelves 'level' or do they slope in or out? Is there another place that would be better to use for level?

Thanks, Tony

Edited Sunday at 02:33 PM by Tony and Rhonda
Typo

[Ronbrink]

21 minutes ago, Tony and Rhonda said:

We've installed a LevelMate Pro and it seems to work well. I ran into an issue when zeroing it out. Front to back wasn't a problem but our Ollie has a slight crown right to left. I tried to split the difference when calibrating the LevelMate Pro.

@Ronbrink's post above about leveling his Norcold has me rethinking this. We had issues with a non-working furnace in another RV when the rig wasn't level. Don't want this to happen with the Ollie.

We also have the 3-way Norcold. As @Ronbrink mentions, the top of the frig door should work for front to back. What about right to left? Are the internal shelves 'level' or do they slope in or out? Is there another place that would be better to use for level?

Thanks, Tony

My Norcold is true to the trailer’s side-to-side level. I find the entry floor centered below the wet bath doorway the best location for a level reading. I should mention that when the top of the fridge door is perfectly level, the front of the Oliver is slightly raised, which is undetectable when moving around inside. Actually, this slight downward slope also facilitates condensate runoff from the Atmos 4.4 to the rear of the hull. 

[mossemi]

Great idea’s all round!  And I’ll add that I have used a LevelMate Pro for several years with pretty good success, but if I want to double check front to back and side to side, I’ll use a bottle of water wherever I think it’s most important.

Mossey

[topgun2]

14 minutes ago, mossemi said:

I’ll use a bottle of water wherever I think it’s most important.

So - 

Now I know why Krunch always complains that her bed gets wet!😁

[jd1923]

2 hours ago, Tony and Rhonda said:

calibrating the LevelMate Pro...

I brought ours to a flat parking lot in our area and adjusted the 3 leveler jacks carefully. I used a quality 2 ft and a short level. Measured floors and counters inside after measuring the seam where the hulls come together outside, all around the perimeter, the window frames, and under the frame in a few locations.

It should add up after taking many measurements that you're as close as possible and then viola click "calibrate!" Take your time here, knowing you'll never need to level manually again, thank Goodness! 😎 That bubble-level top of jack is just a cute decoration.

When parking, it's so great to know the most level position while still in the truck. When camping we get level left-to-right and keep the nose up to 1" to have more of the fresh water tank available and keep our heads up just a little when laying in bed.

[Geronimo John]

I keep it simple and fast:  6" torpedo level, slap it on the entry door threashold for fore/aft.  For starboard/port move the level 12" into the entrance.  1/4 bubble is close enough for us.  

If the refer decides not to work at 1/4 bubble, then it will be my excuse to get an inverter one.  Gizmology is great, but can be a PITA too.  My torpedo has yet to sink our Ollie!

GJ