TV - Stereo Gremlin

[Geronimo John]

4 hours ago, Snackchaser said:

As Jd suggested, the batteries are older and you could upgrade to lithiums.  That would be a big improvement.  However, unless there are pages missing from the manual, it looks like your converter is for lead acid batteries only

The manual I posted above is for our 2018 OE2 and his is older than ours.  Our units do/did not have the lithum switch... unless it was upgraded by someone that bought 12V LA's.... not likely....  So if going Lithium, at a minimum, an updated master board would be needed.  If purchasing one,  and going lithium I suggest upgrading from the 4045 (45 amp converter) to the 4060 (60 amp converter).  That extra 15 amps makes a nice reduction in charging time.  Or if budget allows, an upgrade into the Victorn lines if you are into neat gizmology.  

 

1 hour ago, Mike and Carol said:

Great news! Overnight, the batteries charged and are now at 12.2 volts.

DBL-R:  Not necessarily.

Without a smart charger, a trick simple test will tell you very clearly.  Both tests are founded on Watt's Law:  Watts = Volts xAmps?)   It says for a given wattage, with in reason you can power up a load with various voltages and amperages so long as their product = the Watts of the load.  If your battery is surface charged, it may flow the optimum amps and volts off the surface initially.  But then seconds later the voltage drops, the load in watts does not change, so the amps must increase.  In your case you are looking at a voltage that can change, a fixed load, and variable amps as a result.  As the volts decrease, the amps must increase.... until the buse blows.  Two ways to test your battery for load carrying ability and health: 

• If you have an Inverter (Changes 12V DC battery power into 120V AC power):  First, unplug from shore power, turn on the inverter and hook up your volt meter to your batteries.  Have someone start your microwave while you monitor the voltage.  If the microwave tries to run but shuts off quickly, you have a surface charge.  Only hope is to try using a smart charger to desulfate as mentioned above.
• If you don't have an Inverter, just cycle the front jack.  If the batteries can raise and lower a full cycle then you may just be the lucky guy of the day.  But if it slows down and stops, or blows the 30 amp jack fuse.... Time to desulfate....

 Also keep in mind that a fully charged deep-cycle LA battery typically tests at 12.7V to 13.0V (for 12V systems) after resting for several hours.  So more charging is also needed.  Just be careful not to boil the batteries with too much charging amps or time.

GJ

 

GJ

Edited 20 hours ago by Geronimo John

[DBL-R]

Thank you, I am using a Deltran battery tender, it’s a smart charger and it has not fully charged the batteries (yet).  My panel does not match what was in the manual!

[Geronimo John]

17 hours ago, DBL-R said:

I am using a Deltran battery tender, it’s a smart charger and it has not fully charged the batteries (yet).  

That is good.  I'm sure you already have, but out of an abundance...  Since this is taking some time, recommend you periodically monitor battery water and top off as necessary with distilled water.  

GJ

Edited 2 hours ago by Geronimo John

[Steph and Dud B]

17 hours ago, DBL-R said:

My panel does not match what was in the manual!

If the previous owner accidentally connected the batteries backwards, even for a second, the reverse polarity fuses will blow and your converter won't charge the batteries. So, first, verify that your batteries are connected properly: positive cable (usually red) connected to the positive battery terminal. Just to be sure.

Next: Those 2 green 30 Amp fuses at the bottom of your photo appear to be the reverse polarity fuses that are suspect. Pull them and test them. If you don't know how to test them, just buy 2 new 30 Amp fuses and replace them. See if that solves your problem.

[Geronimo John]

Also the terminals appear that they could use a cleaning as well.

[dewdev]

22 hours ago, dewdev said:

@DBL-R Based on my 2018 wiring diagram, I have 3 - 25 (or 30 in your case) amp fuses which are called Reverse Battery Fuses. Strange that your system calls for 30 amp. As indicated in this post, check the batteries for property wiring and then check the Reverse Battery Fuses to make sure they are not blown. Not sure why you do not have 3 fuses in place. It might be a good idea to call OTT to confirm the 3 fuses in your Ollie are required.

Good luck

@DBL-R

I updated my post. Again, suggest that you call OTT to find out if you in fact you should have 3 Reverse Battery Fuses in place.

Edited 2 hours ago by dewdev

[DBL-R]

Everything appears to be wired correctly and the fuses are good.  I spoke with OTT and other than the batteries loosing voltage, there is no way for me to test it.  The suggested taking it to a service center and having them do diagnostics. Since it is in the garage, on a battery tender, and not winterized I will do that this spring.  Since it is new to us, it will be worth a piece of mind to have it check out.  While we are at is does anyone know the make and model number for the shocks?  I want to replace those and all I could find was the Monroe 555001, not sure if that is correct or not.  I am waiting on a call back from the parts department.

 

Thank you all for you assistance. 

 

Ron

[topgun2]

Ron - 

there are a bunch of posts on this subject.

I found THIS ONE by using the Search function at the top of the page.

Bill

p.s.  since you are fairly new to the Forum - all you have to do is left click on "this one" above and it will take you to a post on the subject.

Edited 46 minutes ago by topgun2
added detail