New Plumbing design for 2017

[Jason Essary]

We have modified our plumbing system for the 2017 models by eliminating our 90 degree elbows eliminating potential water leaks. We haven't had any issues with water leaks but we are always looking at how we can make the Oliver better. We are now using pex bend supports. We have also started using a different diverter tee which allows for greater flow.

 

 

 

[John E Davies]

This is fine news. That installation is neat, tidy, and very pleasing to the eye. I like it.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

[Overland]

Wow, looks nice!  It's great to know that Oliver cares about things like this.

[trumpetguy]

Nice.  Will this design change improve water flow from the pump?

[Try2Relax]

While the specs for the pumps state to minimize 90s and tees, after replacing pretty much my whole system, I don't think the realization will be great enough to notice from just that.

 

The pressure in a completely sealed system is actually quite strong, stronger than my house, I found that one of the intake tees valves didn't seal completely and the hard white hose connector leaked, that being it sucked a little air, therefore there was never a water leak to find. So, if your having a pressure issue you can check these possibilities.

 

On another note, those of you who find the pump is loud, remove the white hoses on either end and replace with 30" braided lines (Home Depot) THAT does make all the difference in the world.

 

Attached is a photo of the tee valve, this was the one that you need to switch to draw water from the back connection that outputs straight to the pump.

 

[Jason Essary]

As try2relax stated, this change will not improve water pressure in any significant amount. However, we have changed our diverter tee out for one that allows for greater flow thru and during testing found that it did help increase water pressure. This change was also implemented in the 2017 model.

 

I haven't heard of many customers having a water pressure issue but we continue to review our processes and continue testing to always see if there is a better way because we want to make sure that our customers get the best. I would like to hear if anyone has experienced any issues with water pressure.

[Try2Relax]

Without seeing more of the system, the center pex in the photo, which is the output from the pump, where does this line go? If it goes straight to the water heater then that will do a lot to increase the pressure felt in the shower, (how I setup my manifold) it will also pretty much eliminate the problem of the cold water overpowering the hot at the mixer when the flow is shut off, which is why they have that pulsating to keep the water moving.

 

The other recommendation would be to reposition the output from the heater so that the water that goes forward is straight through and the water that goes to the outdoor shower exits the T side, there should be enough room to incorporate a 90 bend at the bottom and the T under the drawers (hot water) is already configured so that the water to the shower is a straight pass thru.

[joelatx]

<p>Hi there, yes we've had problems with low water pressure in our 2015 Elite II. Especially utilizing the fresh water pump. We also experience, when taking a shower and pushing the button on the shower wand to stop the water flow that the cold water pressure overrides the hot so when you turn the water back on you get a dose of cold water for the first few seconds. OTT has sent me a replacement pump, which helped a little with the low pressure. I've come to the conclusion that I might have a slight air leak at one of the fittings between the tank and the pump. I just haven't had a chance to look into it yet. </p>

[JuniorBirdMan]

Here's a mod I used on my '08 Ollie to significantly increase the water pressure and efficiency from the pump. I don't know how the newer ones are wired but this may be useful. Simple and cheap!

 

http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/water-pressure-2/

[rideandfly]

We have modified our plumbing system for the 2017 models by eliminating our 90 degree elbows eliminating potential water leaks. We haven’t had any issues with water leaks but we are always looking at how we can make the Oliver better.

 

Thanks!!!!  This is one of the many reasons we like Oliver, always making improvements to an already great Travel Trailer!!!!!  :)

[Jason Essary]

This is a great question and one that many of our customers have started to ask. To access the plumbing under the bathroom sink you would need to cut away the caulk from around the vanity. Once the caulk has been removed you should be able to pull the vanity out. *CAUTION - DO NOT try to pull it out with the caulk still in place. We use 3M 4000 caulk which is a semi-permanent caulk and it will rip the gelcoat if it isn't cut before removal.

[John E Davies]

This is a great question and one that many of our customers have started to ask. To access the plumbing under the bathroom sink you would need to cut away the caulk from around the vanity. Once the caulk has been removed you should be able to pull the vanity out. *CAUTION – DO NOT try to pull it out with the caulk still in place. We use 3M 4000 caulk which is a semi-permanent caulk and it will rip the gelcoat if it isn’t cut before removal.

 

As a consumer, I think it is very wrong that you would have to basically disassemble the entire vanity, then reassemble it again with expensive and difficult to find adhesive, to access a piece of plumbing. This design makes it virtually impossible for the average owner to fix a leak in the boonies.

 

Every, EVERY SINGLE plumbing joint and connection should have relatively simple access. Inspection hatches are the answer, not the method described above.

 

I am extremely disappointed that this is needed in a trailer marketed as a unit that will be passed on to future generations... and I hope Oliver will start adding hatches or completely redesigning the systems so that all the connections are located at accessible areas. In the meantime, I suppose every owner should buy a tube of sealant and add it to his spares kit. 3M 4000 is great stuff but you won't find it at Walmart. West Marine stores an Amazon are good sources.

 

John Davies

Spokane WA

[GrayGhost]

Would it be possible to access this area through a hatch put into the closet wall to the right of the vanity? The hatch wouldn't be visible in the closet, and would provide access at anytime rather than have to dis- assemble and re-assemble the vanity.

[rideandfly]

Asked Oliver yesterday the same question Dennis has.

 

Jason, please correct me if I have this wrong.

 

The caulk has to be cut where I'm pointing around the vanity to remove and inspect under the sink. Oliver installs four bolts or screws in current units to secure the vanity in addition to sealing the vanity with caulk.

[rideandfly]

Also, where are the 4 screws that help hold this piece in place? I don’t see them in Bill’s image. Dennis

 

Dennis,

 

Believe the new units have four screws after talking to Jason, but our Ollie built April 2015 does not have screws.

[topgun2]

Mine built January 2016 doesn't have four screws that I can see.

 

Bill

[ScubaRx]

...As a consumer, I think it is very wrong that you would have to basically disassemble the entire vanity, then reassemble it again with expensive and difficult to find adhesive, to access a piece of plumbing. This design makes it virtually impossible for the average owner to fix a leak in the boonies. Every, EVERY SINGLE plumbing joint and connection should have relatively simple access. Inspection hatches are the answer, not the method described above....John Davies Spokane WA

 

During a recent trip to the factory to have all our bathroom drains rebuilt they re-did my vanity insert attachment to current standards. This is the way it looks now. And BTW, it is not hard to remove and replace. In the two Oliver's we've owned, I've probably removed it at least a half dozen times. I agree with John, it's not the most accessible place in the trailer but it's not impossible to get there.

 

[ScubaRx]

Steve, I’m interested in your statement about removing this vanity insert attachment at least half a dozen times. Why did you need to remove this vanity insert attachment? Dennis

 

Dennis, in every case, I took it out to run or inspect wiring.  The easiest way to route wires from outside the front of the trailer to the inside is thru this area.  From there you can go under the black tank or into the closet.  In each of our trailers, I ran a remote switch for the front jack allowing me inside control.  In our first Oliver all the switches for the outside lights were outside on the driver's side.  I turned these outside switches into 3 way switches and put the second set inside by the entrance door.

[topgun2]

Dennis,

 

I've seen the inside of Steve and Tali's rig and can tell you that they are wired for everything one can imagine.  If you ever have the chance - don't miss it!  What Steve describes above only scratches the surface.

 

Bill

[DavidS]

Steve,

 

First, why did you want to control the front jack from inside the trailer? Second, Bill describes amazing wiring that you have done. What sort of things? I am curious as to your mods, as possible future project for my Ollie.

 

David

[Mainiac]

Think this will be one of our first 'mods', when we get our unit home, put in a rectangular hatch. And, as we are not getting the faux granite and the sink is moulded in, replace the sink bowl with a SS one. I assume there is a trap under that sink, and as most they would need occasional service.  We have seen many a trap need new rings or at least tightened (unless they are glued?). A rectangular hatch would give one a whole lot more range of motion in servicing the plumbing than a 4" round one. Hatches are available at any good marine store, and you have to go there to get the caulk anyway?