HOW TO: Rear mud flaps for the Ollie

[John E Davies]

This thread won't have much How To info, mostly pictures. The two aluminum arms were installed using the same methods described in this thread - refer to that if you have questions. ... http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/how-to-stone-stomper-gravel-guard/

 

Note: The steel subframe should be electrically isolated from the aluminum arms as much as practical. I used stainless hardware and bedded the two parts in a thick layer of 3M 4000 Adhesive Sealant.

 

 

The flaps are universal ones, 12 inch by 18 inch, that I found at a local ranch supply for $18. The size was perfect, all I had to do was notch the inside to clear the hull. They are this same brand but the embossed pattern is a little different: ... https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0002MA68M/?coliid=I1N0SYMJAAHKPN&colid=1X5H11EH41351&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

I mocked up a flap using cardboard to mark the cutout.

 

 

 

[John E Davies]

The flaps are easy to cut with a new razor knife blade.

 

 

Level the trailer side to side! Once clamped into position, check that the flap is vertical along the outside edge using a bubble level, drill the holes 5/16". Remove and enlarge slightly oversize; this gives you a little wiggle room for final adjustment.

 

Install the flaps with hardware specified in the other thread.

 

 

Both flaps clear the jack, and also any blocks under it. The flap can easily be pushed back for extra room.

 

 

 

 

 

The left flap:

 

 

Clearance with the jack was tighter on this side. The jack was mounted about 1 inch further back on the frame rail. It still clears.

 

 

And the flap also clears the cargo door when fully open. The bar has about 2 inches clearance with the door itself.

 

 

The right flap again:

 

 

The hot water heater door lies against the rubber when fully open.

 

 

The bottom edge is 3.5 inches off the ground. I will see how this does, and if it seems to be dragging excessively, I can easily trim off a couple of inches.

 

***** I don't THINK that it would be possible to pinch a flap between a curb (or rock) and the tire when backing up! I will check to be certain, and if needed I may have to remove a little from the bottom. *****

 

EDIT 05/20/18: No worries about dragging, I have backed over a standard street curb and the flap folds forwards but does not get pinched. The flaps are very effective on gravel roads, but there are still rock strikes on the gelcoat above the front of the flaps, there is no way of stopping that. But behind them, the bottom of the hull stays much cleaner and relatively undamaged.

 

I'll post a few pics outside when I next tow Mouse. This was a fun project. Fabricating the bars, drilling the subframe and installing them was time consuming and a little finicky. Actually fitting and attaching the flaps was quick and easy. I like how they look, and they should provide significant protection for the curved part of the hull, the puddle lights, water fittings, rear bumper and back of the trailer (from rocks pinging off the front face of the bumper).

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

[mossemi]

Thanks again John.  Your explanation and pictures should make this a straight forward project for anyone interested.

[topgun2]

John - any particular reason that you mounted the flaps with the smooth side to the rear?  It would seem to me that the flaps would collect less "stuff" and be a bit easier to clean with the smooth side the other way around.

 

Bill

[Overland]

I agree, I think they're backwards, not that it would matter much.  Probably easy to swap it all around if needed.  I like this material much better than the conveyor belt material you used for the stone stomper.  Another good material choice for anyone thinking about doing this is the heavy duty ones from PDP - that's what I put on my truck and I really like them.  They're made from a flexible plastic rather than rubber - they seem very stiff but you can cut them with a utility knife, and once on they flex much more than you'd think .  Same stuff they use on baja trucks.  And of course they can be had with the ever popular naked lady silhouette, which my wife tells me I can't have.  She's no fun.

 

They have a notched version that you can get in white, if that's your thing.

[John E Davies]

I mounted them smooth side to the rear EXACTLY because that is the easier side to clean. That is the part that shows the most, I do not care if the front face collects stuff. I just pressure wash that off anyway, or it falls off in the rain.

 

Secondly, if I have to trim the bottom for clearance, I will round the corners and the back side will look unchanged. The front has a thicker lip all the way around the perimeter that would look weird if cut away and facing the back.

 

If you want to install a set with the textured side, or a naked lady, facing the rear, go for it. I won't hold it against you. ;)

 

I usually do stuff for a valid reason. It may not match your own logic, but I did think about it, and there was a reason for doing it the way I did....

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

[topgun2]

NICE!

 

I always wondered why all the flaps I've ever seen have been mounted with the patterned side away from the wheel.  Perhaps your own logic and thinking about will change this.

 

Bill

[John E Davies]

No worries, work very well....

 

 

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

[ScubaRx]

Will the cargo door still fold completely down? If not it would make it virtually impossible to crawl into the basement without damaging the hatch.

[John E Davies]

Will the cargo door still fold completely down? If not it would make it virtually impossible to crawl into the basement without damaging the hatch.

 

Do you mean remove the cable stay and let the door hang completely vertical, like the hot water heater door?

 

No, there is about 2 inches clearance with the door hanging on the stay. So with that disconnected the door would open a little further and then hit the mudflap bracket hard. I never have a need to “crawl into” the opening, so this never even occurred to me....

 

I use a couple of milk crates shoved way back, but I attached ropes to them so I can just pull them out. No crawling. The long items I keep in there like a folding table are easy enough to reach.

 

I have wondered for a long time why all the outside and cabinet doors have the hinges on the bottom, that seems completely backwards to me. It does save on the cost of gas struts....

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

[ScubaRx]

I was not referring to removing items, rather going inside for mods or maintenance. I guess it’s just me. I’ve been in there dozens of times for various reasons.

[Rumline]

I never have a need to “crawl into” the opening, so this never even occurred to me….

I use a couple of milk crates shoved way back, but I attached ropes to them so I can just pull them out. No crawling.

Like.

 

I have wondered for a long time why all the outside and cabinet doors have the hinges on the bottom, that seems completely backwards to me.

 

Well for the basement door it allows you to create a little tray / workspace, (see Reed's exterior compartments video) but I agree that it still seems backwards.

[Roadrunner]

John

 

The aluninum extrusions you used for the supports are 3x1.5 x .125 radius corners ?

 

Roadrunner

[John E Davies]

1 x 2 x 1/8" wall, I do not know the radius diameter, I think it is 0.25" but not positive. See the 4th post on that Stone Stomper thread. ...Here is the metal source (local to me, great prices):  https://alcobrametals.com/product/AQ1.00ER

 

This is one of the front flap bars, it is drilled differently from the rear mudflaps:

 

 

http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/how-to-stone-stomper-gravel-guard/

 

There is no need to use the radius corners, but I do think that they look classy compared to square ones, and they save your knuckles from scrapes when you are washing the trailer. The 1x2" rectangular shape is way more rigid than a 1x1" square tube, be sure to drill some "failure holes" as shown in that thread, so the bar will fold rearward gracefully if hit hard, instead of transmitting all the impact energy to the subframe. You do not want the subframe to get damaged if you run over a truck tire retread or a scrap of lumber at freeway speeds.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

 

 

[hobo]

John (or others):  Might the area behind the rear wheels be an area that perhaps I should have the Vortex coating applied when we have our nose done on our new trailer next spring?  If so, can someone please advise specifically where the coating should be applied?

 

Thanks, Hobo in VA

[Bruce W]

Will Oliver install mud flaps?

[John E Davies]

Will Oliver install mud flaps?

As far as I know, they will not, though I have heard that in the past they have installed them on Canada-bound unit(s) due to the laws requiring them on trailers there.

 

I have suggested that they develop a kit that can be installed either by a skilled owner, or prior to delivery by the Oliver shop. Ideally, they would make changes in the mold to allow better/ easier attachment to the fiberglass - the shape is a little awkward at the very back - so you don't need to add heavy support bars to the frame. Whatever we end up with, it needs to be robust, but also failsafe, so if you run over a big object or have tire tread separation, it will not do too much damage to the hull. It needs to be designed with a break-away or fold-away feature for a big impact.

 

Jason said they would look into it. It never hurts to ask them, the more people who express interest, the more likely things like this are to happen. This is how we got EZ-Flex suspension, extra access panels, solar, etc. Ask (enough) and ye shall receive.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

 

 

 

 

[John E Davies]

John (or others): Might the area behind the rear wheels be an area that perhaps I should have the Vortex coating applied when we have our nose done on our new trailer next spring? If so, can someone please advise specifically where the coating should be applied?

 

Thanks, Hobo in VA

It would not hurt to cover the entire area that would get blasted by road spray and hard debris, and the front facing surface of the rear bumper too. All surfaces in line with the tire tread need to be protected, so coat pretty much the entire underneath curved part of the hull, plus the exposed gelcoat around the back of the wheel wells. (That area does not get protected by flaps, but it is not highly visible so I can live with damage until it gets bad enough to cover with bedliner spray).

 

If you plan on driving on unsurfaced roads, you won't be able to match the protection you get with flaps. They stop the debris from hitting in the first place. Plus they protect the city and tank fill water fittings and stop big stones from ricocheting off the back bumper and into the rear lights and gelcoat. I have found jagged basalt stones the size of my thumb lying on top of the rear platform before, and nothing but dust after installing flaps. They are really very effective.

 

Plus they protect cars following you from stuff thrown by your tires.,. that is a bonus.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

[BackofBeyond]

 

 

Thanks to JD's well documented post's I finished my mud flap install.

 

I used similar sized aluminum square support, however, I used solid, rather than "tubing", mainly because my local supplier had a highly discounted 10' piece in the remnant pile. In addition to the lock washers I also used red lock tight on the nuts. (couldn't find any nylock nuts, when I do, I'll replace.) Similar SS nuts, bolts, washers, little different install overall.

 

The cost of material was less than $60, and took about 3 hours total to fab and  install. A drill press would have made the process a little quicker.

 

 

I also reversed the flap, just personal preference

 

[attachment file=152850]

 

I have yet to figure out how to keep the pic orientation correct, or how to fix it in the posts.

[John E Davies]

I used similar sized aluminum square support, however, I used solid, rather than “tubing”, mainly because my local supplier had a highly discounted 10′ piece in the remnant pile. 

If your bar material is aircraft grade, then I fear it is too strong. What are the outside dimensions and alloy type? You really need  to design the support arms so that they are weaker than the subframe they are bolted to. The angle is steel, but it is a mild alloy and not THAT strong. If there is a big hit on the arm due to road debris like a 2x4 or a blown tire carcass, the arm should fold back gracefully, not bend your sub-frame attach point. That might cost some $$$ to repair. Replacing just a damaged flap arm would be relatively minor.

 

The material I used is 1 x 2 x 1/8” wall. It is pretty darned rigid due to its shape and the tempered 6061-T6 material, so I added a line of weakening holes so it will bend when hit hard. The following pic is from my Stone Stomper thread. I TRIED to add it to the first post of this mudflap thread but I am unable to edit that post. The line of holes does not show in the other pics because they are drilled on the top, bottom and front face only. This leaves a “hinge” in the back to allow the metal to fold. The material will tear apart at the holes.

 

 

I suggest that you drill some small holes in the arm inboard of the flap to remove enough metal to make a failure point. Seriously. Please do it.

 

Be safe.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

[BackofBeyond]

John,

 

I did not miss the "failure" points in your how to posts. The shear pin effect you are advocating for in the design may or may not be a positive aspect of the install. I gave it considerable thought, and decided it was not something I wanted to include. I believe the rigid bar and rubber mat present additional protection to the fiberglass underbelly aft of the wheels, rather than present a risk to the cross brace it is mounted on.

 

Rather than go into the why's , lets just agree to disagree.

 

I appreciate your concern.

 

Thank you again for the work you put in on the posts - it saved me some time . Interesting, the rubber flaps appear to be the same - I Amazoned mine, just chose whatever was a close dimension.

 

RB

[John E Davies]

Everyone is perfectly free to do this mod as they please, that does not bother me, however I just wanted to be 100%:clear about my reasoning for the extra holes in my installation. I had originally left that info out of the first post. I am however bothered that I cannot edit it with an update.

 

I do hope that we can keep this thread updated in the future with long term user info and crash or road hazard results.... if there should be any. After 6000 miles my flaps are fine and they continue to work very well to keep junk off the hull and bumper, but I haven’t run over anything yet.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

[Ray and Susan Huff]

On 9/10/2018 at 2:36 AM, John E Davies said:

It would not hurt to cover the entire area that would get blasted by road spray and hard debris, and the front facing surface of the rear bumper too. All surfaces in line with the tire tread need to be protected, so coat pretty much the entire underneath curved part of the hull, plus the exposed gelcoat around the back of the wheel wells. (That area does not get protected by flaps, but it is not highly visible so I can live with damage until it gets bad enough to cover with bedliner spray).

 

If you plan on driving on unsurfaced roads, you won't be able to match the protection you get with flaps. They stop the debris from hitting in the first place. Plus they protect the city and tank fill water fittings and stop big stones from ricocheting off the back bumper and into the rear lights and gelcoat. I have found jagged basalt stones the size of my thumb lying on top of the rear platform before, and nothing but dust after installing flaps. They are really very effective.

 

Plus they protect cars following you from stuff thrown by your tires.,. that is a bonus.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

One of our previous cars (sport sedan Mazda 6) had some sort of heavy duty paint finish along the side panels under the doors.  I don't recall how effective it was, but seems like it might be something Oliver should consider for the underside of the lower hull.

[JimM]

thanks for all the  information about mud flaps. The more I read these forums the more I am considering buying a used one that has the owner upgrades already done.

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[choied]

After getting the materials to do this job more than a year ago, I finally finished it this past month.  Thanks John.