My Latest Double Secret Final Probation List of Confusion Re: What I Absolutely Must Have With Me On Delivery Day For the Elite 1

[topgun2]

Gap - 

6x6 blocks work fine under both the rear and front jacks and have the added ability to be laid on their sides versus the plastic supports similar to those you mention in the event you can not use or want the additional height of the block standing on end.  Also, If you measure the distance from the bottom of the rear jacks to level ground I think you will find that a 12 inch length is a bit too much - I cut mine at 11 inches for this reason.

 

I do carry several 2x6 boards for several reasons to include your proposed use.  However, I believe that you will need longer ones than 12 inches if your intent is to span the distance between the tires on the double axle Elite II.  Unfortunately I do not have direct access to my Oliver or I would measure that for you.

Bill

Edited November 22, 2020 by topgun2

[Ray and Susan Huff]

3 hours ago, GAP said:

I've been eyeballing a couple of these.  Camco Stabilizer Jack Supports  Seems like they will save some weight and work could be more stable boondocking on uneven ground better than slices of 8"x8" lumber but the opening in the top is quite wide.  Does anyone use these and know if they speak well to the disc at the bottom of the stabilizer jacks?  Was also considering using an 8x8 block for the front jack.

For leveling the tires, I bought a set of Anderson wedges and was thinking of having a couple each of 2x8 in 12" length in case I need to come up more than 4".  Would that wood fit between the tires on an E2?  Pieces of rubber matt to prevent sliding between the wedges/wood/ground.

 

Curious to hear how these work with the Oliver jacks

[Ray and Susan Huff]

5 hours ago, topgun2 said:

Yes - all of these "things" that are put under the tires are for the purpose of leveling from side to side (note for newbies - do not confuse this with chocks which prevent the camper from rolling away when not connected to your tow vehicle).  The tongue jack is used for leveling front to back.

Bill

Thanks . . . . .  I must switch me brain from camper van to trailer 😀

[topgun2]

Susan - 

No problem at all.  I think that you will find this leveling process somewhat more simplified with the trailer versus the van.  You simply level from side to side first while still attached to your tow vehicle.  Then you level from front to back.  If you need the front of the trailer to be just a little higher then you can simply use that front jack to raise the trailer even while still attached to the tow vehicle.  If you need the front of the trailer to be lower you either must raise the rear of the trailer - put more levelers of some sort under the wheels on BOTH sides - or un-hitch to be able to use the front jack to lower the front of the camper.  There are other variations on the theme here but you probably get the idea - side to side first and then front to back.

Bill

[John E Davies]

I have a huge level mounted on the front, I try to position the trailer so it is dead level left to right, by moving forward or backward a few feet, then adjust the other way if needed. You can see the level from the drivers seat, it is much easier than that teeny bubble on top of the tongue jack. Ideally you don’t need to do anything else, if the tongue is a few inches low you can raise it and the TV up without unhitching. If the back is low, use the rears.  I really prefer not using any jacks at all, and leaving everything fully hooked up. It saves lots of time, and in an emergency you can hightail it out with minimal delay.

If you do this, flag the gear shift with something bright, to remind you to raise any jacks before leaving. You really don’t want to drive with them near the ground...l

John Davies

Spokane WA

[Jim_Oker]

3 minutes ago, John E Davies said:

huge level

Which one do you  have  and are you  happy  with it? I  see ones from Level Master and Hopkins and Camco that all seem  decent... Just based on the photos I might trend toward the Hopkins as the photo makes its bubble position appear most visible at a distance of these three, but of course that could just be a difference between how the photos were taken.

[John E Davies]

Jim, not all bubble levels are created equal..... some leak.

 

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2082-how-to-install-a-big-bubble-level-no-drilling/

John Davies

Spokane WA

Edited November 22, 2020 by John E Davies

[Jim_Oker]

Thanks. That Level Master bubble looks nice and visible from your photo, which is more helpful than product shots on Amazon for judging that I think.

 

[KenB]

On 11/20/2020 at 6:25 PM, BackofBeyond said:

All you absolutely need is payment.

I agree with this.  All the other bits and pieces are just nice to have.   Everything you might have forgot or didn’t know you wanted can be purchased at Tractor Supply or Walmart just a minute or two drive from your pickup.  
 

All you absolutely need is payment and proof of insurance if you paid for the trailer via a secured loan.  If you’re paying with cash, I don’t know if proof of insurance is required by law in TN or not.  

[GAP]

22 hours ago, topgun2 said:

Gap - 

6x6 blocks work fine under both the rear and front jacks and have the added ability to be laid on their sides versus the plastic supports similar to those you mention in the event you can not use or want the additional height of the block standing on end.  Also, If you measure the distance from the bottom of the rear jacks to level ground I think you will find that a 12 inch length is a bit too much - I cut mine at 11 inches for this reason.

 

I do carry several 2x6 boards for several reasons to include your proposed use.  However, I believe that you will need longer ones than 12 inches if your intent is to span the distance between the tires on the double axle Elite II.  Unfortunately I do not have direct access to my Oliver or I would measure that for you.

Bill

Great info Bill.  Especially helpful to know the height of the jacks when fully retracted.  6" seems like a small footprint if leveling on uneven ground while boondocking.  In your experience, do you think it would be worth stepping up to 8x8s or considering the Camco buckets I was checking out for that application or do you think your style blocks with a little shovel work would be fine?

[Mike and Carol]

23 hours ago, topgun2 said:

Gap - 

6x6 blocks work fine under both the rear and front jacks and have the added ability to be laid on their sides versus the plastic supports similar to those you mention in the event you can not use or want the additional height of the block standing on end.  Also, If you measure the distance from the bottom of the rear jacks to level ground I think you will find that a 12 inch length is a bit too much - I cut mine at 11 inches for this reason.

I do carry several 2x6 boards for several reasons to include your proposed use.  However, I believe that you will need longer ones than 12 inches if your intent is to span the distance between the tires on the double axle Elite II.  Unfortunately I do not have direct access to my Oliver or I would measure that for you.

I use wood blocks similar to Bill’s.  Mine are 6” and then I use legos to raise them where I want them. I’ve got one for each jack (3) and then one additional that is a little over 4”.  I also carry a few short lengths of 2X6 for odd situations.

 

[Trainman]

I'm sure glad I started camping with a trailer some 45 years ago, it seems that I'm doing it pretty much the same way and using the same setup items that I did back them. 

trainman

[topgun2]

Gap - 

I've had no problem with the 6 inch footprint in that the diameter of the Oliver's jacks is basically 6 inches - see Mike's picture above.  This includes fairly extensive boondocking.  I'm not sure that the 8x8's would really give you very much and would be just that much more difficult to store.  Both the Camco and Andersen style "buckets" are nice but as I mentioned earlier - they can not be laid on their sides when a shorter length is desired and I would guess that they are a bit more difficult to store - round things (difficult) versus square things (easier).

Bill

[GAP]

 

4 hours ago, Mike and Carol said:

I use wood blocks similar to Bill’s.  Mine are 6” and then I use legos to raise them where I want them. I’ve got one for each jack (3) and then one additional that is a little over 4”.  I also carry a few short lengths of 2X6 for odd situations.

 

 

2 hours ago, topgun2 said:

Gap - 

I've had no problem with the 6 inch footprint in that the diameter of the Oliver's jacks is basically 6 inches - see Mike's picture above.  This includes fairly extensive boondocking.  I'm not sure that the 8x8's would really give you very much and would be just that much more difficult to store.  Both the Camco and Andersen style "buckets" are nice but as I mentioned earlier - they can not be laid on their sides when a shorter length is desired and I would guess that they are a bit more difficult to store - round things (difficult) versus square things (easier).

Bill

Really great info all around.  Now I know the footprint of the lever(s) base.  Super useful.  If 6x6 has been working in a boondocky situation, that is awesome as it saves me the extra weight of super sizing to 8x8.  As mentioned, the buckets seem like a great item but are not space efficient and wouldn't save much weight.  I can use a few 2x boards to 1) build up the jack blocks as needed and/or 2) build up the leveling wedges as needed.  A secondary benefit is avoiding having to buy more plastic stuff (leveling buckets, blocks).  We feel good about avoiding where possible.  Thanks for the input.

[GAP]

On 11/22/2020 at 3:17 PM, John E Davies said:

I have a huge level mounted on the front, I try to position the trailer so it is dead level left to right, by moving forward or backward a few feet, then adjust the other way if needed. You can see the level from the drivers seat, it is much easier than that teeny bubble on top of the tongue jack. Ideally you don’t need to do anything else, if the tongue is a few inches low you can raise it and the TV up without unhitching. If the back is low, use the rears.  I really prefer not using any jacks at all, and leaving everything fully hooked up. It saves lots of time, and in an emergency you can hightail it out with minimal delay.

If you do this, flag the gear shift with something bright, to remind you to raise any jacks before leaving. You really don’t want to drive with them near the ground...l

John Davies

Spokane WA

I checked out your link to level mounting instructions.  As usual, they were very clear and nicely laid out.  I'll bring the bits and pieces to do so on my maiden voyage at the beginning of December and do the mounting down south before coming back to the wicked frozen north.  Thanks on that John.

[GAP]

On 11/20/2020 at 7:25 PM, BackofBeyond said:

All you absolutely need is payment. 

Leveling thingies:

https://www.amazon.com/Leveler-Andersen-Minutes-Levelers-Leveling/dp/B01LYQ1Z8S

I use these - they are very good for the $$

If your going the Anderson hitch - don't worry - Oliver will set it up for you.  Otherwise A 2'"ball - on a 2" receiver with the appropriate drop or rise to set the top of the ball at about 23-25 " from the surface.   

I would wait until I've spent a few nights and locations before I purchased much more.

RBt

I have a pair of under tire levelers similar to the Anderson wedges.  They too are built to be cut down, if needed, to fit between the tires on the Elite 2.  The overall length is 15" so pretty much the same as the Anderson's.  Does anyone know if there is a need to cut these down and, if so, by how much?  I am picking up our Oliver in just a few days and prefer to do that surgery at home.

[mountainoliver]

We have the Anderson wedges and love them. 0-4 inch lift for side to side leveling. No need to cut them to fit between the tires (at least on the 2017 model). 

[topgun2]

GAP - 

What Mountainoliver said.  There are situations where the Andersens can be fairly tight between the tires, but, I've never had a situation where I could not get the one between the tires out by hand (i.e. I've not had to use a hammer, rock or even my foot).

Bill

[GAP]

On 11/22/2020 at 3:17 PM, John E Davies said:

I have a huge level mounted on the front, I try to position the trailer so it is dead level left to right, by moving forward or backward a few feet, then adjust the other way if needed. You can see the level from the drivers seat, it is much easier than that teeny bubble on top of the tongue jack. Ideally you don’t need to do anything else, if the tongue is a few inches low you can raise it and the TV up without unhitching. If the back is low, use the rears.  I really prefer not using any jacks at all, and leaving everything fully hooked up. It saves lots of time, and in an emergency you can hightail it out with minimal delay.

If you do this, flag the gear shift with something bright, to remind you to raise any jacks before leaving. You really don’t want to drive with them near the ground...l

John Davies

Spokane WA

Hey John,

Per your suggestion, I picked up a Level Master level.  Similar to your sage, the first one arrived with a leak.  The second one looks clean but, both have a pretty decent sized air bubble in the tube.  Is that just the way they are or did the second somehow spring a leak as well?

Thanks

[John E Davies]

27 minutes ago, GAP said:

, both have a pretty decent sized air bubble in the tube.  Is that just the way they are or did the second somehow spring a leak as well?

The air bubble is normal, I suspect through sloppy manufacture plus also to allow for expansion of the fluid when in hot sunshine. It is not a bother because the air goes naturally away from the steel ball, which is at the bottom of the curve. So these are in fact “bubble levels” but they would better be called ball levels....😬

John Davies

Spokane WA 

Edited November 29, 2020 by John E Davies

[GAP]

Thanks on that John.  Much appreciated.