Jump to content

My Latest Double Secret Final Probation List of Confusion Re: What I Absolutely Must Have With Me On Delivery Day For the Elite 1


Recommended Posts

Seriously, I have been overwhelmed a bit and unable to "focus" on what exactly I need to buy in advance and BRING with me to the delivery day of the Elite 1 in TN.

As simple as I can get it, it appears I ONLY need to buy-in-advance, and bring with me, these things:

 

1. Chocks.  How many of these do I BUY? Exactly how many.

2. Something called "leveling blocks."  I have no idea what these do or how to use them (yet), waiting for Delivery Day explanations (which I will video using my phone). But the sales rep included a pic from Amazon (no LINK), so I don't know where these are on Amazon, but I am attaching the pic he sent (said they were on Amazon, but I cannot find anything with this photo) and said these would be something to bring WITH me on delivery day. 

Are these the leveling blocks he means?

3. A Reese "receiver hitch: for a 2" receiver (which my 2021 Ram 1500 has) -- I believe this is the "ball"-thingy as I call it, techy of me! -- and my sales rep says with a 3"-4" drop?

Would this one do?

Note: many times I go to Amazon (prefer to buy there as I have prime and it's just easier), and it will say at the top of a link I followed, "Does not work with your vehicle.") 

Apparently I do not NEED TO BRING ANYTHING ELSE. No hoses. No extension cords. No adapters. Nothing, right? The Elite 1 delivery people will supply all else I need to hook up at the David Crockett State Park that night, with electric, water, and sewer? Am I correct? Please tell me I am correct. This is really driving me nuts at this point. I mean that in the nicest and warmest tone possible and hope you can understand how overwhelming this can be for a true newbie. 🙂

Thanks.

Screen Shot 2020-11-20 at 5.37.41 PM.png

Edited by SherMica
to add more confusion

Soon-to-be owner of a 2021 Elite 1 -- Hull #731

2021 Ram 1500 Rebel 4x4

Copilot: Dog, James Dog.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

We have fallen in love with the Lynx Leveling blocks and chocks. A pkg of 10 flat blocks that stack and interlock and a couple chocks that have the same interlocking fit. There seem to be a couple of popular brands but since we did our first 10,000+mi with the Lynx and they worked so well, I guess we are now Lynx-for-Life.

lynx level blocks.jpg

lynx chock.jpeg

  • Like 2

'There is so much good in the worst of us, and so much bad in the best of us,it doesn't behoove any of us to speak evil of the rest of us'

> In line for 2021 OTT EII , TAB Teardrop is up for sale after about 10,000 miles of pleasant learning <

Link to post
Share on other sites

All you absolutely need is payment. 

Leveling thingies:

https://www.amazon.com/Leveler-Andersen-Minutes-Levelers-Leveling/dp/B01LYQ1Z8S

I use these - they are very good for the $$

If your going the Anderson hitch - don't worry - Oliver will set it up for you.  Otherwise A 2'"ball - on a 2" receiver with the appropriate drop or rise to set the top of the ball at about 23-25 " from the surface.   

I would wait until I've spent a few nights and locations before I purchased much more.

RB

Edited by BackofBeyond
  • Like 2

Cindy,  Russell and  "Harley dog" . Home is our little farm near Winchester TN

2018 Oliver Legacy Elite II - 2018 GMC 2500 Duramax 

"Die young - As late as possible"

ALAZARCACOFLIDMTNVNMOKORTNTXUTWAWYd56201524964bac5483378b34b491562080842sm.jpg

 

 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Moderators

SherMica - 

Relax!

Chocks -

 For the Elite I you will need a minimum of 2 chocks - one chock for each tire.  The ones you have noted on Amazon will do for most situations.  However, for added safety you should consider 4 chocks.  The reason for this is that normally you only place one chock on the "downhill" side of each wheel.  However, in situations where it is not apparent which is the "downhill"  side of a tire and/or you are parked on level ground it is prudent to place a chock on both sides of the tire.  Remember, chocks are the only things that prevent your Oliver from rolling when you are not attached to your tow vehicle.  While the plastic chocks you have noted on Amazon will do the job in most situations, there are situations where these chocks will slip/slide on the surface - think smooth concrete or asphalt.  And these plastic chocks will turn brittle, crack and fracture after a relatively short period of time (couple of years in most situations).  While rubber chocks cost more up front and are much heavier than the plastic ones, they tend to last much longer and a generally much more stable on surfaces where the plastic ones slip.

https://www.amazon.com/SECURITYMAN-Rubber-Wheel-Chocks-Trailer-RV-Heavy-Duty-/dp/B07VMTLFD1/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=21K8CV0QXC3U8&dchild=1&keywords=rubber+chocks+for+travel+trailer&qid=1605917334&sprefix=rubber+chocks%2Caps%2C172&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFUTkRRTU1CVDIzWjAmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA0MjkzMjkxSVRYWDdUMFJXVkU3JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2MTI5NzQxTk5aR1BJMDJaWDJKJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Leveling blocks -

The leveling blocks you show are "double long" as compared to those that most people carry (and they are more than double the price of the regular ones).  Even thought I generally use my Andersen leveling system which is by far the most simple for a solo traveler ( https://www.amazon.com/Andersen-Hitches-3604-Camper-Leveler/dp/B001GC2LVM/ref=sr_1_25?crid=2NFIJAG9AR9V6&dchild=1&keywords=andersen+levelers&qid=1605917607&sprefix=Andersen+%2Caps%2C182&sr=8-25 ), I also carry the "regular lego leveling blocks like these: https://www.amazon.com/Tri-Lynx-00015-Lynx-Levelers-Pack/dp/B0028PJ10K/ref=sr_1_11?crid=2NFIJAG9AR9V6&dchild=1&keywords=andersen+levelers&qid=1605917775&sprefix=Andersen+%2Caps%2C182&sr=8-11.  Of course, if you are short of funds and/or care to be really simple with this whole thing of raising a wheel off the ground for the purposes of leveling the camper, you can always simply get a number of 12 to18 inch lengths of 2x6 that will serve much of the same purpose.

Receiver hitch - 

This one is slightly more complicated.  For your trailer to correctly tow behind you in a level orientation  with your tow vehicle, the top of the 2 inch ball will need to be a certain number of inches off level ground.  Your Oliver sales rep can give you this figure.  Then, measuring the distance from level ground to the top of you receiver on your truck you will get an idea of what the "drop" or "rise" should be (note that it is most likely you will need a "drop" given the truck that you purchased).  All you need to do is to get in the "ballpark" - you do not have to be exact on this measurement because fine tuning can be completed with washers under that "ball thingy".

Certainly there is nothing "wrong" with the receiver hitch that you have shown on Amazon but you will need to either do the measurements as per the above or take the advice of someone (perhaps like Seadawg) that tows with a similar tow vehicle and tows an Elite I.

 

Finally - 

The answers to your final questions virtually all fall into the "how prepared do you wish to be" category.  Yes, for your stay at the  State Park you will probably not "need" a longer sewer hose or extension cord or any adaptors, etc..  However, once you leave there you just might stay at a place where you are not near the electric outlets and thus will need an extension cord or you are not near the sewer dump and you need another length of sewer hose or the place you are staying only has a "regular 15 amp" outlet (think of the wall sockets in your house or apartment) and you need a 30 amp to 15 amp converter plug/adaptor/dogbone or conversely, the campground only has a site with 50 amp and you need to convert that to 30 amp via a 50 to 30 amp conversion plug or dogbone as they are sometimes called).

Do not stress over these things.  For the most part you will be fairly near civilization at least until you are more comfortable with your Oliver.  Therefore, you will be able to either borrow what you need - you'll find that your fellow campers can be very helpful in this regard - or you will be able to get it from the campground store or host or a town will be near enough that you can purchase what you need at that time.  OR,  you will find out that you really do not need many of these things because your Oliver can be a very comfortable place to live without hooking up to electricity or even water for short periods of time.

Bill

edit:  BackofBeyond is correct above - if you are getting the Andersen weight distribution hitch then the folks at Oliver will set it all up for you at delivery and you do NOT need to purchase a receiver hitch.

Edited by topgun2
  • Thanks 2

2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Moderators

You won’t need the Andersen hitch with a new Rebel pulling an Elite.  I just measured and the top of the receiver on my Rebel is 21”.  If you have a straight mount with no drop the top of your ball would be just over 23”.  If you did a 2” drop mount the top of your ball would be at about 21”.  I don’t know what height the Elite needs to be level.  The good news is there is a Tractor Supply a mile from where you are picking up and they have a big assortment of hitches.  Next door is Walmart and they have hitches too, plus chocks, etc.  Mike

  • Thanks 1

Mike and Carol | Fair Oaks Ranch, TX | 2016 Elite II #135 | 2020 Ram Rebel 4X4 5.7L Hemi

ALAZARCACOFLGAIDILKSKYLAMDMSMOMTNENVNMNYNCNDOHOKSCSDTNTXUTVAWVWYsm.jpg

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

The rubber chocks Topgun linked are very excellent but pretty expensive for four. I agree that you need heavy rubber ones, the Harbor Freight chocks are a great value ($32 for 4) and work super well. Buy four, attach a 48” length of bright rope to each pair, loop it over the hubcap, it makes it a lot easier to retrieve them, especially if they are wet/ dirty. Put the knobby side down, toward the pavement, and kick each one lightly against the tire with your shoe. After you are hitched, if one gets stuck under the tire do not despair, grab the one that did come free and whack the hell out of the stuck one with it, it will pop out in a couple of blows. Don’t kick it or you will hurt your toes and swear a bunch. ALWAYS double chock BOTH tires whenever the trailer is going to be disconnected. The brightly colored rope makes it less likely you will forget to remove them when you drive away.

D25A39F0-028C-4E95-8D54-C9D9B7EA01AD.thumb.jpeg.abaa93df8cc6b7cc5e089e2971986d28.jpeg

 

Buy these chocks

HF will have a big Black Friday sale really soon, they might knock a couple of bucks off the price. 

John Davies

Spokane WA

Edited by John E Davies
  • Like 3

"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

Link to post
Share on other sites

My 2019 Elite was about 20” level,  after the trailer weight is out on it, everything fully loaded.   Dave Phelps was similar.   No Andersen WD hitch.   I think that I read the Elite II has more ground clearance, not sure.   Your truck will sag  when you put your cargo in the bed and fill with gas, and add the trailer tongue weight, loaded with all your stuff.  How much your new Rebel will sag I cannot say, but my 2019 F150 FX4 sagged several Inches.    I used a Reese Towpower ball mount 2” drop.   Looks something like this. 

 https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch-Ball-Mount/Curt/C45036.html

If you want to splurge, you could go with something like this which is height adjustable and includes a weight scale.    

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch-Ball-Mount/Weigh-Safe/WS4-25.html

I’ve  never owned one so you might seek the opinion of someone who has.   Whatever you buy, make sure the ball is already mounted and torqued correctly, you don’t want to deal with that on the road.    Don’t forget the pin that secures it in the receiver, and consider hitch locks.    

See previous post on the hitch height, it shows a pic of how it was measured, as well as comments on tongue weight.  I never weighed mine, but SeaDawg had a fugure of 420# loaded, Dave Phelps was 450.

 

  • Like 1

2021 Legacy Elite II (ordered); 2019 Legacy Elite #431 (sold); 2019 Ford F-150 FX4 5.0 V8

Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, BackofBeyond said:

All you absolutely need is payment. 

Leveling thingies:

https://www.amazon.com/Leveler-Andersen-Minutes-Levelers-Leveling/dp/B01LYQ1Z8S

I use these - they are very good for the $$

If your going the Anderson hitch - don't worry - Oliver will set it up for you.  Otherwise A 2'"ball - on a 2" receiver with the appropriate drop or rise to set the top of the ball at about 23-25 " from the surface.   

I would wait until I've spent a few nights and locations before I purchased much more.

RB

Not sure on Anderson hitch yet. Rep says I can decide literally as I stand there on delivery day and they can accommodate. As of now not doing it. That can change, anytime, he says, without any hassle.

"The appropriate drop or rise" has been the issue. I asked rep on phone. He said, yesterday, "3 to 4 inch." I have sent rep all the spec on my truck and its tow package. Def waiting before buying ANYTHING else. Thanks again for your help!

Soon-to-be owner of a 2021 Elite 1 -- Hull #731

2021 Ram 1500 Rebel 4x4

Copilot: Dog, James Dog.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, SherMica said:

Not sure on Anderson hitch yet. 

FYI with your brand new pickup truck (new shock absorbers) you will be wasting your time and money getting the Andersen. An old truck with worn shocks would benefit from it because it dramatically reduces the up/ down seesaw forces on jouncey roads. But in that case it makes more sense to just install high quality  replacement shocks. Last oil change I discovered both my OEM Land Cruiser rear shocks were leaking oil (blown seals) - the fronts were fine. This is with 140,000 miles so it is not unexpected. If you put a lot of miles on your Rebel and notice things aren’t as stable as the used to be, don’t install an Andersen to correct it....😬 Just fix the real problem.

Hang in there, you are getting close. I hope you have a decent camera because we are all expecting lots of pictures over the next few months....

John Davies

Spokane WA

Edited by John E Davies
  • Thanks 1

"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

Link to post
Share on other sites
18 hours ago, BackofBeyond said:

All you absolutely need is payment. 

Leveling thingies:

https://www.amazon.com/Leveler-Andersen-Minutes-Levelers-Leveling/dp/B01LYQ1Z8S

I use these - they are very good for the $$

If your going the Anderson hitch - don't worry - Oliver will set it up for you.  Otherwise A 2'"ball - on a 2" receiver with the appropriate drop or rise to set the top of the ball at about 23-25 " from the surface.   

I would wait until I've spent a few nights and locations before I purchased much more.

RB

We've never used this type of leveler; I've always wondered how they work if the RV is not level side to side and requires more lift on one side.  

We have always used the Lynx leveling blocks.  We have two sets of 10.

Ray and Susan Huff

Elite II Twin "Pearl" - Hull#699; taking delivery December 7, 2020

2013 F350 3.2l diesel Super Duty 4x4 long bed crew cab

2017 Leisure Travel Van Unity Twin Bed (sold)

AZARCACOGAHIIDILKSLAMSMONENVNMOKORSCTNTX

Link to post
Share on other sites

Great advice above. I don't know about the lego style leveling blocks you've shown or that  others have  shown, but I  was  given an orange set of some that looked quite similar  with my custom  camper van  when picking it up from the conversion shop near Portland OR (long a hotspot for van  conversion  work). They quickly proceeded to shatter into little  bits  one after the other on our first  few camping outings. Any uneven pavement or worse yet dirt/gravel was just a no-go with  the ones I had. I cut some pieces of 2x8 pressure treated lumber (this would  have  been around late 2004) which I've recently replaced because old pressure treated wood tends to want to split as it ages. A little heavy but cheap. Sometimes they  slide  around on  the  ground is the biggest issue - on most surfaces a sheet of rubber helps (there are various ones sold for this  purpose on Amazon etc. such as this but I managed to make due before  finally repurposing an  old rubber doormat that has helped with this). For my coming  Elite II I've bought two those  nifty Anderson  curved wedge plus plastic chock thingies mentioned and linked above (two  for the two axles on the Elite II that need to be raised  to get level) plus a pair of rubber mats made by I forget who  similar to the ones  I linked. I'll be interested to see if  I like these Anderson levelers better than my lumber bits. I bet I will. I also bought some  of those rubber Harbor Freight chocks John  shows above. Nifty  idea with  the rope btw. They seem like they'll work well and I won't be worried about them sliding down a hill as the rolling tires  push them at will as I would with the plastic chocks often sold in Anderson leveling combo packages along with those curved levelers.

I also got a lock for  the  bulldog hitch on the  Oliver (I hope this one fits!!). Plus a padlock. I'd like to be able to ensure  no one can just ease their ball under my hitch and lower my toy and drive off. I imagine there may be better  locking solutions and perhaps existing owners can chime in on that front. I also have a receiver lock to ensure that it's not super  easy to remove the ball mount from my van's hitch (in my case I'll  have the Anderson ball mount as I'll  need their weight distribution hitch). I'm told by some horse friends who  trailer around a  LOT that people  with fast fingers tend to surf for towing accessories at places  like truck stops at least  in our region (including  dash mount brake controllers - these  are apparently a particularly hot  item!).

Edited by Jim_Oker

Jim and  Yanna, Woodinville WA

2004 Ford E250 camper conversion

Oliver Elite II December 2020 delivery

Link to post
Share on other sites

Jim, The Collar works great, no worries at all there. The Discus lock is a kinda lame (easy to pick), there are much better choices in the $40+ range. I have this one..... Stanley padlock hardened  One way to prevent somebody from dropping your locked coupler onto their 1 7/8” ball and driving away - insert a 2” ball bearing into the Bulldog coupler socket.

62669C4E-D5D0-4C17-9F21-15347F79C77A.thumb.jpeg.f9da803690ea9d487c01dcf9988b8dad.jpeg
 

 

 https://www.amazon.com/Inch-Chrome-Steel-Bearing-Balls/dp/B007B2A3VQ

Keep the extra one as a spare or give it to a kid as a toy. What a cool stocking stuffer! You could use an old 2” hitch ball if you have one, cut the shank off with a hacksaw. But the bearing is a more elegant solution.

John Davies

Spokane WA

Edited by John E Davies
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Sweet - thanks for the input folks!

BTW, to add to my comments above, I  got non-treated  lumber for my new set  of van levelers, as I don't think  the pressure treatment was really necessary for these, it's kind of nasty (I  don't love the sawdust and the splinters are bad news) and this wood should be  less  prone to splitting I think. 

I don't think I've  seen "jack blocks"  mentioned above, which help make lowering your  levelers/stabilizers faster  and will  spread out the pressure  on the ground (less likely you'll  leave annoying dents  in fresher pavement, etc.). My trailering friends just use thick lumber - I think 6x8" pressure  treated cut off wood blocks, but you can  also  buy things like these or these (I've seen them often  used with one piece of 2x8" lumber  under them to further  spread the load) and again I would be interested to  hear from current owners/users on what  if anything they use for jack blocks.

Jim and  Yanna, Woodinville WA

2004 Ford E250 camper conversion

Oliver Elite II December 2020 delivery

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Moderators

I’ve been using the yellow Camco lego levelers for years with very little wear showing.  I’ve got two sets, both from Walmart.  I use them under wheels to level and also use them under my wood blocks at each jack.

 

  • Like 1

Mike and Carol | Fair Oaks Ranch, TX | 2016 Elite II #135 | 2020 Ram Rebel 4X4 5.7L Hemi

ALAZARCACOFLGAIDILKSKYLAMDMSMOMTNENVNMNYNCNDOHOKSCSDTNTXUTVAWVWYsm.jpg

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Moderators

We just use dimensional lumber cutoffs, like Jim-oker. Ours are free, from various projects .

When they get nasty, they go into the campfire. Replace them with more free stuff.

One time, at a group camp with many out of level spots, Paul went to a Lowe's and asked them to cut up a couple 2 x 8's for everyone we were camping with. It was a big help.

 

 

  • Like 1

2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12
 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
39 minutes ago, SeaDawg said:

We just use dimensional lumber cutoffs, like Jim-oker. Ours are free, from various projects .

 

 

I cut my first set from  a project leftover. I felt like I was doing something  wrong buying  a whole piece of lumber to make my second set when the first was done, but alas no  recent projects.

  • Like 1

Jim and  Yanna, Woodinville WA

2004 Ford E250 camper conversion

Oliver Elite II December 2020 delivery

Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Susan Huff said:

We've never used this type of leveler; I've always wondered how they work if the RV is not level side to side and requires more lift on one side.  

We have always used the Lynx leveling blocks.  We have two sets of 10.

You use them on the side needing height.  They work very well.  However if you need more than 4 to 5 inches - yeah I guess a mountain of blocks would do it. 

RB

  • Thanks 1

Cindy,  Russell and  "Harley dog" . Home is our little farm near Winchester TN

2018 Oliver Legacy Elite II - 2018 GMC 2500 Duramax 

"Die young - As late as possible"

ALAZARCACOFLIDMTNVNMOKORTNTXUTWAWYd56201524964bac5483378b34b491562080842sm.jpg

 

 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

The rubber horse stall mat, like Tractor Supply sells, works great. Cut up and alternate between pieces of wood. Keeps the wood from sliding. Also helps make up the height you might need. Stabilizers take 30 amp so use a lot of power when boondocking. The less they have to travel is the more power reserve you have...

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, BackofBeyond said:

You use them on the side needing height.  They work very well.  However if you need more than 4 to 5 inches - yeah I guess a mountain of blocks would do it. 

RB

So they are best for leveling side to side, not front to back?  I guess I need to get used to the idea of a tongue jack.  With our camper van, you had to use blocks for both front to back and side to side.

Ray and Susan Huff

Elite II Twin "Pearl" - Hull#699; taking delivery December 7, 2020

2013 F350 3.2l diesel Super Duty 4x4 long bed crew cab

2017 Leisure Travel Van Unity Twin Bed (sold)

AZARCACOGAHIIDILKSLAMSMONENVNMOKORSCTNTX

Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, Jim_Oker said:

I cut my first set from  a project leftover. I felt like I was doing something  wrong buying  a whole piece of lumber to make my second set when the first was done, but alas no  recent projects.

Lumber is always free at our place . . . . . many acres of trees (there's always one dead or dying, thanks to the Grey Squirrels!), and two sawmills . . . .

Ray and Susan Huff

Elite II Twin "Pearl" - Hull#699; taking delivery December 7, 2020

2013 F350 3.2l diesel Super Duty 4x4 long bed crew cab

2017 Leisure Travel Van Unity Twin Bed (sold)

AZARCACOGAHIIDILKSLAMSMONENVNMOKORSCTNTX

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Moderators
Quote
9 hours ago, Susan Huff said:

So they are best for leveling side to side, not front to back?

 

Yes - all of these "things" that are put under the tires are for the purpose of leveling from side to side (note for newbies - do not confuse this with chocks which prevent the camper from rolling away when not connected to your tow vehicle).  The tongue jack is used for leveling front to back.

Bill

  • Thanks 1

2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Moderators
10 hours ago, Susan Huff said:

So they are best for leveling side to side, not front to back?  I guess I need to get used to the idea of a tongue jack.  With our camper van, you had to use blocks for both front to back and side to side.

You're going to really enjoy using the electric tongue jack, instead of blocks.

  • Thanks 1

2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12
 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been eyeballing a couple of these.  Camco Stabilizer Jack Supports  Seems like they will save some weight and work could be more stable boondocking on uneven ground better than slices of 8"x8" lumber but the opening in the top is quite wide.  Does anyone use these and know if they speak well to the disc at the bottom of the stabilizer jacks?  Was also considering using an 8x8 block for the front jack.

For leveling the tires, I bought a set of Anderson wedges and was thinking of having a couple each of 2x8 in 12" length in case I need to come up more than 4".  Would that wood fit between the tires on an E2?  Pieces of rubber matt to prevent sliding between the wedges/wood/ground.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...