Moonlight Mile Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 (edited) Seriously, I have been overwhelmed a bit and unable to "focus" on what exactly I need to buy in advance and BRING with me to the delivery day of the Elite 1 in TN. As simple as I can get it, it appears I ONLY need to buy-in-advance, and bring with me, these things: 1. Chocks. How many of these do I BUY? Exactly how many. 2. Something called "leveling blocks." I have no idea what these do or how to use them (yet), waiting for Delivery Day explanations (which I will video using my phone). But the sales rep included a pic from Amazon (no LINK), so I don't know where these are on Amazon, but I am attaching the pic he sent (said they were on Amazon, but I cannot find anything with this photo) and said these would be something to bring WITH me on delivery day. Are these the leveling blocks he means? 3. A Reese "receiver hitch: for a 2" receiver (which my 2021 Ram 1500 has) -- I believe this is the "ball"-thingy as I call it, techy of me! -- and my sales rep says with a 3"-4" drop? Would this one do? Note: many times I go to Amazon (prefer to buy there as I have prime and it's just easier), and it will say at the top of a link I followed, "Does not work with your vehicle.") Apparently I do not NEED TO BRING ANYTHING ELSE. No hoses. No extension cords. No adapters. Nothing, right? The Elite 1 delivery people will supply all else I need to hook up at the David Crockett State Park that night, with electric, water, and sewer? Am I correct? Please tell me I am correct. This is really driving me nuts at this point. I mean that in the nicest and warmest tone possible and hope you can understand how overwhelming this can be for a true newbie. 🙂 Thanks. Edited November 20, 2020 by SherMica to add more confusion 2021 Elite 1 -- Hull #731 Ram 1500 Rebel 4x4 Now Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgelewisray Posted November 21, 2020 Share Posted November 21, 2020 We have fallen in love with the Lynx Leveling blocks and chocks. A pkg of 10 flat blocks that stack and interlock and a couple chocks that have the same interlocking fit. There seem to be a couple of popular brands but since we did our first 10,000+mi with the Lynx and they worked so well, I guess we are now Lynx-for-Life. 2 'There is so much good in the worst of us, and so much bad in the best of us,it doesn't behoove any of us to speak evil of the rest of us' > 2021 OTT EII , TAB Teardrop has good home after 10,000 miles of pleasant learning < Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BackofBeyond Posted November 21, 2020 Share Posted November 21, 2020 (edited) All you absolutely need is payment. Leveling thingies: https://www.amazon.com/Leveler-Andersen-Minutes-Levelers-Leveling/dp/B01LYQ1Z8S I use these - they are very good for the $$ If your going the Anderson hitch - don't worry - Oliver will set it up for you. Otherwise A 2'"ball - on a 2" receiver with the appropriate drop or rise to set the top of the ball at about 23-25 " from the surface. I would wait until I've spent a few nights and locations before I purchased much more. RB Edited November 21, 2020 by BackofBeyond 2 Cindy, Russell and "Harley dog" . Home is our little farm near Winchester TN 2018 Oliver Legacy Elite II - 2018 GMC 2500 Duramax "Die young - As late as possible" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators topgun2 Posted November 21, 2020 Moderators Share Posted November 21, 2020 (edited) SherMica - Relax! Chocks - For the Elite I you will need a minimum of 2 chocks - one chock for each tire. The ones you have noted on Amazon will do for most situations. However, for added safety you should consider 4 chocks. The reason for this is that normally you only place one chock on the "downhill" side of each wheel. However, in situations where it is not apparent which is the "downhill" side of a tire and/or you are parked on level ground it is prudent to place a chock on both sides of the tire. Remember, chocks are the only things that prevent your Oliver from rolling when you are not attached to your tow vehicle. While the plastic chocks you have noted on Amazon will do the job in most situations, there are situations where these chocks will slip/slide on the surface - think smooth concrete or asphalt. And these plastic chocks will turn brittle, crack and fracture after a relatively short period of time (couple of years in most situations). While rubber chocks cost more up front and are much heavier than the plastic ones, they tend to last much longer and a generally much more stable on surfaces where the plastic ones slip. https://www.amazon.com/SECURITYMAN-Rubber-Wheel-Chocks-Trailer-RV-Heavy-Duty-/dp/B07VMTLFD1/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=21K8CV0QXC3U8&dchild=1&keywords=rubber+chocks+for+travel+trailer&qid=1605917334&sprefix=rubber+chocks%2Caps%2C172&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFUTkRRTU1CVDIzWjAmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA0MjkzMjkxSVRYWDdUMFJXVkU3JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2MTI5NzQxTk5aR1BJMDJaWDJKJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== Leveling blocks - The leveling blocks you show are "double long" as compared to those that most people carry (and they are more than double the price of the regular ones). Even thought I generally use my Andersen leveling system which is by far the most simple for a solo traveler ( https://www.amazon.com/Andersen-Hitches-3604-Camper-Leveler/dp/B001GC2LVM/ref=sr_1_25?crid=2NFIJAG9AR9V6&dchild=1&keywords=andersen+levelers&qid=1605917607&sprefix=Andersen+%2Caps%2C182&sr=8-25 ), I also carry the "regular lego leveling blocks like these: https://www.amazon.com/Tri-Lynx-00015-Lynx-Levelers-Pack/dp/B0028PJ10K/ref=sr_1_11?crid=2NFIJAG9AR9V6&dchild=1&keywords=andersen+levelers&qid=1605917775&sprefix=Andersen+%2Caps%2C182&sr=8-11. Of course, if you are short of funds and/or care to be really simple with this whole thing of raising a wheel off the ground for the purposes of leveling the camper, you can always simply get a number of 12 to18 inch lengths of 2x6 that will serve much of the same purpose. Receiver hitch - This one is slightly more complicated. For your trailer to correctly tow behind you in a level orientation with your tow vehicle, the top of the 2 inch ball will need to be a certain number of inches off level ground. Your Oliver sales rep can give you this figure. Then, measuring the distance from level ground to the top of you receiver on your truck you will get an idea of what the "drop" or "rise" should be (note that it is most likely you will need a "drop" given the truck that you purchased). All you need to do is to get in the "ballpark" - you do not have to be exact on this measurement because fine tuning can be completed with washers under that "ball thingy". Certainly there is nothing "wrong" with the receiver hitch that you have shown on Amazon but you will need to either do the measurements as per the above or take the advice of someone (perhaps like Seadawg) that tows with a similar tow vehicle and tows an Elite I. Finally - The answers to your final questions virtually all fall into the "how prepared do you wish to be" category. Yes, for your stay at the State Park you will probably not "need" a longer sewer hose or extension cord or any adaptors, etc.. However, once you leave there you just might stay at a place where you are not near the electric outlets and thus will need an extension cord or you are not near the sewer dump and you need another length of sewer hose or the place you are staying only has a "regular 15 amp" outlet (think of the wall sockets in your house or apartment) and you need a 30 amp to 15 amp converter plug/adaptor/dogbone or conversely, the campground only has a site with 50 amp and you need to convert that to 30 amp via a 50 to 30 amp conversion plug or dogbone as they are sometimes called). Do not stress over these things. For the most part you will be fairly near civilization at least until you are more comfortable with your Oliver. Therefore, you will be able to either borrow what you need - you'll find that your fellow campers can be very helpful in this regard - or you will be able to get it from the campground store or host or a town will be near enough that you can purchase what you need at that time. OR, you will find out that you really do not need many of these things because your Oliver can be a very comfortable place to live without hooking up to electricity or even water for short periods of time. Bill edit: BackofBeyond is correct above - if you are getting the Andersen weight distribution hitch then the folks at Oliver will set it all up for you at delivery and you do NOT need to purchase a receiver hitch. Edited November 21, 2020 by topgun2 2 2023 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing, Max Payload, 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist" Near Asheville, NC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Mike and Carol Posted November 21, 2020 Moderators Share Posted November 21, 2020 You won’t need the Andersen hitch with a new Rebel pulling an Elite. I just measured and the top of the receiver on my Rebel is 21”. If you have a straight mount with no drop the top of your ball would be just over 23”. If you did a 2” drop mount the top of your ball would be at about 21”. I don’t know what height the Elite needs to be level. The good news is there is a Tractor Supply a mile from where you are picking up and they have a big assortment of hitches. Next door is Walmart and they have hitches too, plus chocks, etc. Mike 1 Texas Hill Country | 2016 Elite II #135 | 2020 Ram 2500 6.7L Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John E Davies Posted November 21, 2020 Share Posted November 21, 2020 (edited) The rubber chocks Topgun linked are very excellent but pretty expensive for four. I agree that you need heavy rubber ones, the Harbor Freight chocks are a great value ($32 for 4) and work super well. Buy four, attach a 48” length of bright rope to each pair, loop it over the hubcap, it makes it a lot easier to retrieve them, especially if they are wet/ dirty. Put the knobby side down, toward the pavement, and kick each one lightly against the tire with your shoe. After you are hitched, if one gets stuck under the tire do not despair, grab the one that did come free and whack the hell out of the stuck one with it, it will pop out in a couple of blows. Don’t kick it or you will hurt your toes and swear a bunch. ALWAYS double chock BOTH tires whenever the trailer is going to be disconnected. The brightly colored rope makes it less likely you will forget to remove them when you drive away. Buy these chocks HF will have a big Black Friday sale really soon, they might knock a couple of bucks off the price. John Davies Spokane WA Edited November 21, 2020 by John E Davies 3 SOLD 07/23 "Mouse": 2017 Legacy Elite II Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 32” LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel, Maggiolina Grand Tour 360 Carbon RTT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hokieman Posted November 21, 2020 Share Posted November 21, 2020 My 2019 Elite was about 20” level, after the trailer weight is out on it, everything fully loaded. Dave Phelps was similar. No Andersen WD hitch. I think that I read the Elite II has more ground clearance, not sure. Your truck will sag when you put your cargo in the bed and fill with gas, and add the trailer tongue weight, loaded with all your stuff. How much your new Rebel will sag I cannot say, but my 2019 F150 FX4 sagged several Inches. I used a Reese Towpower ball mount 2” drop. Looks something like this. https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch-Ball-Mount/Curt/C45036.html If you want to splurge, you could go with something like this which is height adjustable and includes a weight scale. https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch-Ball-Mount/Weigh-Safe/WS4-25.html I’ve never owned one so you might seek the opinion of someone who has. Whatever you buy, make sure the ball is already mounted and torqued correctly, you don’t want to deal with that on the road. Don’t forget the pin that secures it in the receiver, and consider hitch locks. See previous post on the hitch height, it shows a pic of how it was measured, as well as comments on tongue weight. I never weighed mine, but SeaDawg had a fugure of 420# loaded, Dave Phelps was 450. 1 “Ramble” - 2021 Legacy Elite II #797; 2020 Ford F-250 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moonlight Mile Posted November 21, 2020 Author Share Posted November 21, 2020 11 hours ago, BackofBeyond said: All you absolutely need is payment. Leveling thingies: https://www.amazon.com/Leveler-Andersen-Minutes-Levelers-Leveling/dp/B01LYQ1Z8S I use these - they are very good for the $$ If your going the Anderson hitch - don't worry - Oliver will set it up for you. Otherwise A 2'"ball - on a 2" receiver with the appropriate drop or rise to set the top of the ball at about 23-25 " from the surface. I would wait until I've spent a few nights and locations before I purchased much more. RB Not sure on Anderson hitch yet. Rep says I can decide literally as I stand there on delivery day and they can accommodate. As of now not doing it. That can change, anytime, he says, without any hassle. "The appropriate drop or rise" has been the issue. I asked rep on phone. He said, yesterday, "3 to 4 inch." I have sent rep all the spec on my truck and its tow package. Def waiting before buying ANYTHING else. Thanks again for your help! 2021 Elite 1 -- Hull #731 Ram 1500 Rebel 4x4 Now Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John E Davies Posted November 21, 2020 Share Posted November 21, 2020 (edited) 3 hours ago, SherMica said: Not sure on Anderson hitch yet. FYI with your brand new pickup truck (new shock absorbers) you will be wasting your time and money getting the Andersen. An old truck with worn shocks would benefit from it because it dramatically reduces the up/ down seesaw forces on jouncey roads. But in that case it makes more sense to just install high quality replacement shocks. Last oil change I discovered both my OEM Land Cruiser rear shocks were leaking oil (blown seals) - the fronts were fine. This is with 140,000 miles so it is not unexpected. If you put a lot of miles on your Rebel and notice things aren’t as stable as the used to be, don’t install an Andersen to correct it....😬 Just fix the real problem. Hang in there, you are getting close. I hope you have a decent camera because we are all expecting lots of pictures over the next few months.... John Davies Spokane WA Edited November 21, 2020 by John E Davies 1 SOLD 07/23 "Mouse": 2017 Legacy Elite II Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 32” LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel, Maggiolina Grand Tour 360 Carbon RTT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray and Susan Huff Posted November 21, 2020 Share Posted November 21, 2020 18 hours ago, BackofBeyond said: All you absolutely need is payment. Leveling thingies: https://www.amazon.com/Leveler-Andersen-Minutes-Levelers-Leveling/dp/B01LYQ1Z8S I use these - they are very good for the $$ If your going the Anderson hitch - don't worry - Oliver will set it up for you. Otherwise A 2'"ball - on a 2" receiver with the appropriate drop or rise to set the top of the ball at about 23-25 " from the surface. I would wait until I've spent a few nights and locations before I purchased much more. RB We've never used this type of leveler; I've always wondered how they work if the RV is not level side to side and requires more lift on one side. We have always used the Lynx leveling blocks. We have two sets of 10. Ray and Susan Huff Elite II Twin "Pearl" - Hull#699; delivered December 7, 2020 2013 F350 6.7l diesel Super Duty 4x4 long bed crew cab 1UP-USA Heavy-duty bike rack 2017 Leisure Travel Van Unity Twin Bed (sold) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim_Oker Posted November 21, 2020 Share Posted November 21, 2020 (edited) Great advice above. I don't know about the lego style leveling blocks you've shown or that others have shown, but I was given an orange set of some that looked quite similar with my custom camper van when picking it up from the conversion shop near Portland OR (long a hotspot for van conversion work). They quickly proceeded to shatter into little bits one after the other on our first few camping outings. Any uneven pavement or worse yet dirt/gravel was just a no-go with the ones I had. I cut some pieces of 2x8 pressure treated lumber (this would have been around late 2004) which I've recently replaced because old pressure treated wood tends to want to split as it ages. A little heavy but cheap. Sometimes they slide around on the ground is the biggest issue - on most surfaces a sheet of rubber helps (there are various ones sold for this purpose on Amazon etc. such as this but I managed to make due before finally repurposing an old rubber doormat that has helped with this). For my coming Elite II I've bought two those nifty Anderson curved wedge plus plastic chock thingies mentioned and linked above (two for the two axles on the Elite II that need to be raised to get level) plus a pair of rubber mats made by I forget who similar to the ones I linked. I'll be interested to see if I like these Anderson levelers better than my lumber bits. I bet I will. I also bought some of those rubber Harbor Freight chocks John shows above. Nifty idea with the rope btw. They seem like they'll work well and I won't be worried about them sliding down a hill as the rolling tires push them at will as I would with the plastic chocks often sold in Anderson leveling combo packages along with those curved levelers. I also got a lock for the bulldog hitch on the Oliver (I hope this one fits!!). Plus a padlock. I'd like to be able to ensure no one can just ease their ball under my hitch and lower my toy and drive off. I imagine there may be better locking solutions and perhaps existing owners can chime in on that front. I also have a receiver lock to ensure that it's not super easy to remove the ball mount from my van's hitch (in my case I'll have the Anderson ball mount as I'll need their weight distribution hitch). I'm told by some horse friends who trailer around a LOT that people with fast fingers tend to surf for towing accessories at places like truck stops at least in our region (including dash mount brake controllers - these are apparently a particularly hot item!). Edited November 21, 2020 by Jim_Oker 1 Jim and Yanna, Woodinville WA 2004 Ford E250 camper conversion Oliver Elite II hull #709 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John E Davies Posted November 21, 2020 Share Posted November 21, 2020 (edited) Jim, The Collar works great, no worries at all there. The Discus lock is a kinda lame (easy to pick), there are much better choices in the $40+ range. I have this one..... Stanley padlock hardened One way to prevent somebody from dropping your locked coupler onto their 1 7/8” ball and driving away - insert a 2” ball bearing into the Bulldog coupler socket. https://www.amazon.com/Inch-Chrome-Steel-Bearing-Balls/dp/B007B2A3VQ Keep the extra one as a spare or give it to a kid as a toy. What a cool stocking stuffer! You could use an old 2” hitch ball if you have one, cut the shank off with a hacksaw. But the bearing is a more elegant solution. John Davies Spokane WA Edited November 21, 2020 by John E Davies 1 2 SOLD 07/23 "Mouse": 2017 Legacy Elite II Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 32” LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel, Maggiolina Grand Tour 360 Carbon RTT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators SeaDawg Posted November 21, 2020 Moderators Share Posted November 21, 2020 Jim oker, the collar lock is one we've used and recommended for over a decade. Great choice. 2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4 2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12 Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes.... 400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries . Life is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators SeaDawg Posted November 21, 2020 Moderators Share Posted November 21, 2020 And, John's idea on the two inch ball bearing is genius. You can probably order one for less, or I'd go to my local bearing distributor. Probably less than $10. 1 2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4 2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12 Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes.... 400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries . Life is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim_Oker Posted November 21, 2020 Share Posted November 21, 2020 Sweet - thanks for the input folks! BTW, to add to my comments above, I got non-treated lumber for my new set of van levelers, as I don't think the pressure treatment was really necessary for these, it's kind of nasty (I don't love the sawdust and the splinters are bad news) and this wood should be less prone to splitting I think. I don't think I've seen "jack blocks" mentioned above, which help make lowering your levelers/stabilizers faster and will spread out the pressure on the ground (less likely you'll leave annoying dents in fresher pavement, etc.). My trailering friends just use thick lumber - I think 6x8" pressure treated cut off wood blocks, but you can also buy things like these or these (I've seen them often used with one piece of 2x8" lumber under them to further spread the load) and again I would be interested to hear from current owners/users on what if anything they use for jack blocks. Jim and Yanna, Woodinville WA 2004 Ford E250 camper conversion Oliver Elite II hull #709 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Mike and Carol Posted November 21, 2020 Moderators Share Posted November 21, 2020 I’ve been using the yellow Camco lego levelers for years with very little wear showing. I’ve got two sets, both from Walmart. I use them under wheels to level and also use them under my wood blocks at each jack. 2 Texas Hill Country | 2016 Elite II #135 | 2020 Ram 2500 6.7L Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators SeaDawg Posted November 21, 2020 Moderators Share Posted November 21, 2020 We just use dimensional lumber cutoffs, like Jim-oker. Ours are free, from various projects . When they get nasty, they go into the campfire. Replace them with more free stuff. One time, at a group camp with many out of level spots, Paul went to a Lowe's and asked them to cut up a couple 2 x 8's for everyone we were camping with. It was a big help. 1 2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4 2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12 Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes.... 400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries . Life is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim_Oker Posted November 21, 2020 Share Posted November 21, 2020 39 minutes ago, SeaDawg said: We just use dimensional lumber cutoffs, like Jim-oker. Ours are free, from various projects . I cut my first set from a project leftover. I felt like I was doing something wrong buying a whole piece of lumber to make my second set when the first was done, but alas no recent projects. 1 Jim and Yanna, Woodinville WA 2004 Ford E250 camper conversion Oliver Elite II hull #709 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BackofBeyond Posted November 21, 2020 Share Posted November 21, 2020 4 hours ago, Susan Huff said: We've never used this type of leveler; I've always wondered how they work if the RV is not level side to side and requires more lift on one side. We have always used the Lynx leveling blocks. We have two sets of 10. You use them on the side needing height. They work very well. However if you need more than 4 to 5 inches - yeah I guess a mountain of blocks would do it. RB 1 Cindy, Russell and "Harley dog" . Home is our little farm near Winchester TN 2018 Oliver Legacy Elite II - 2018 GMC 2500 Duramax "Die young - As late as possible" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mainiac Posted November 22, 2020 Share Posted November 22, 2020 The rubber horse stall mat, like Tractor Supply sells, works great. Cut up and alternate between pieces of wood. Keeps the wood from sliding. Also helps make up the height you might need. Stabilizers take 30 amp so use a lot of power when boondocking. The less they have to travel is the more power reserve you have... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray and Susan Huff Posted November 22, 2020 Share Posted November 22, 2020 4 hours ago, BackofBeyond said: You use them on the side needing height. They work very well. However if you need more than 4 to 5 inches - yeah I guess a mountain of blocks would do it. RB So they are best for leveling side to side, not front to back? I guess I need to get used to the idea of a tongue jack. With our camper van, you had to use blocks for both front to back and side to side. Ray and Susan Huff Elite II Twin "Pearl" - Hull#699; delivered December 7, 2020 2013 F350 6.7l diesel Super Duty 4x4 long bed crew cab 1UP-USA Heavy-duty bike rack 2017 Leisure Travel Van Unity Twin Bed (sold) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray and Susan Huff Posted November 22, 2020 Share Posted November 22, 2020 7 hours ago, Jim_Oker said: I cut my first set from a project leftover. I felt like I was doing something wrong buying a whole piece of lumber to make my second set when the first was done, but alas no recent projects. Lumber is always free at our place . . . . . many acres of trees (there's always one dead or dying, thanks to the Grey Squirrels!), and two sawmills . . . . 1 Ray and Susan Huff Elite II Twin "Pearl" - Hull#699; delivered December 7, 2020 2013 F350 6.7l diesel Super Duty 4x4 long bed crew cab 1UP-USA Heavy-duty bike rack 2017 Leisure Travel Van Unity Twin Bed (sold) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators topgun2 Posted November 22, 2020 Moderators Share Posted November 22, 2020 Quote 9 hours ago, Susan Huff said: So they are best for leveling side to side, not front to back? Yes - all of these "things" that are put under the tires are for the purpose of leveling from side to side (note for newbies - do not confuse this with chocks which prevent the camper from rolling away when not connected to your tow vehicle). The tongue jack is used for leveling front to back. Bill 1 1 2023 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing, Max Payload, 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist" Near Asheville, NC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators SeaDawg Posted November 22, 2020 Moderators Share Posted November 22, 2020 10 hours ago, Susan Huff said: So they are best for leveling side to side, not front to back? I guess I need to get used to the idea of a tongue jack. With our camper van, you had to use blocks for both front to back and side to side. You're going to really enjoy using the electric tongue jack, instead of blocks. 1 2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4 2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12 Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes.... 400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries . Life is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GAP Posted November 22, 2020 Share Posted November 22, 2020 I've been eyeballing a couple of these. Camco Stabilizer Jack Supports Seems like they will save some weight and work could be more stable boondocking on uneven ground better than slices of 8"x8" lumber but the opening in the top is quite wide. Does anyone use these and know if they speak well to the disc at the bottom of the stabilizer jacks? Was also considering using an 8x8 block for the front jack. For leveling the tires, I bought a set of Anderson wedges and was thinking of having a couple each of 2x8 in 12" length in case I need to come up more than 4". Would that wood fit between the tires on an E2? Pieces of rubber matt to prevent sliding between the wedges/wood/ground. SOLD: 2021 Elite 2, Twin Bed, Lithium & Solar, 3000W Inverter SOLD: 2022 Ford F150, 3.5L V6 EcoBoost, 4x4 Supercab, Trailer Tow Package Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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