Locking Wheel Chocks. Added layer of DETERRENT or Complete Waste of Money?

[Moonlight Mile]

I did search the forums for "locking wheel chocks" before posting this and didn't find much. I know there will be many opinions/experiences on this, but I will go with the consensus, I think, because it doesn't look like a huge investment to get these (if most agree it adds even a modicum of deterrent value as weighed against the cost/time to use them, etc.), once a few people weigh in.

 

Locking Wheel Chocks. On Amazon.  Because I will be leaving the Ollie Elite 1 unhitched when I have to run errands, etc. and don't want to be the low-hanging fruit, especially if there are simple things to do. I do NOT mind taking the time to do things relating to security (to be clear), ever. So the "hassle" or "too many keys" factor is irrelevant (for ME). The peace of mind factor, however illusory it may be IRL ("anyone can steal anything if they want it badly enough," yep I know) would be worth this unless, as I said, everyone weighs in and says "Totally useless!" With the exclamation point. Heh. 

Thanks all!

[Overland]

I think you’d get equal or better protection just tethering the wheels together with a chain and padlock. Maybe that particular device is stronger than it looks, but from the photos it looks like you could just pry off the lock with a good pair of vice grips. Or bend back the clamp with a pipe. 

Edited January 14, 2021 by Overland

[Moonlight Mile]

All, the Amazon link was a sample only, just searched Amazon for "locking wheel chocks." Some other brands *and styles* MAY, or may not, be "better" and available on Amazon and elsewhere. 

That said, thanks I have the info I needed, I am going with the "chain and padlock" concept.

 

SO, now to find a "chain" that cannot be cut off easily . . .  any tips on that appreciated! I have NO idea about chain sizes, materials, strengths, etc.

 

Thanks again!

Edited January 14, 2021 by SherMica

[topgun2]

SherMica - 

I simply did a search for "chain" and came up with this post - there just may be more there but this should get you started.

Bill

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/4567-boondocking-and-securing-valuables/?tab=comments#comment-46261

[John E Davies]

Yes, get a good high quality HARDENED chain and a good lock. That wheel chock you linked to is garbage. The very first review...

”The pin locking mechanism jammed in place and would not retract when the clamp was unlocked. This lock nearly stranded my trailer at our campsite. Fortunately it is also not a very durable lock, and a couple of quick hammer blows were enough to break the pin so I could get going.”

If you don’t want the hassle of a heavy chain, which will probably scratch the fine polish of your pretty wheels, consider a Master Python cable lock. You would need to add a red flag of some material so you remember to remove it. The cables used to be available in lengths up to 30 ft, but I don’t see the long ones listed. Here is a 12 footer that would also be excellent for securing lawn chairs, a bike or even a generator. Run the cable through the frame and one wheel, put the lock up on top of the tire where it will be out of the weather.

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-Python-Adjustable-8413KACBL-12/dp/B07TSYB3XY

I use a 15 foot one all the time. It is not super secure like a hardened chain and a quality lock, but it is certainly good enough.

When I have the flag pole mounted in its tube, I run the cable through the hole in the side, to keep somebody from walking away with it and my wind art.😬

John Davies

Spokane WA

Edited January 14, 2021 by John E Davies

[Ray and Susan Huff]

9 minutes ago, John E Davies said:

Yes, get a good high quality HARDENED chain and a good lock. That wheel chock you linked to is garbage. The very first review...

”The pin locking mechanism jammed in place and would not retract when the clamp was unlocked. This lock nearly stranded my trailer at our campsite. Fortunately it is also not a very durable lock, and a couple of quick hammer blows were enough to break the pin so I could get going.”

If you don’t want the hassle of a heavy chain, consider a Master Python cable lock. You would need to add a red flag of some material so you remember to remove it. The cables used to be available in lengths up to 30 ft, but I don’t see the long ones listed. Here is a 12 footer that would also be excellent for securing lawn chairs, a bike or even a generator. Run the cable through the frame and one wheel, put the lock up on top of the tire where it will be out of the weather. I use a 15 foot one all the time. It is not super secure like a hardened chain and a quality lock, but it is good enough.

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-Python-Adjustable-8413KACBL-12/dp/B07TSYB3XY

John Davies

Spokane WA

Is this cable comparable to Kryponite cables?  We have several we use for bikes, ATVs etc.  

I can see where the camping experience could become less enjoyable with all the gear we could be "locking down" each time you leave the campsite.  I guess you need to decide which items you can live without for a while and you can afford to replace.  My customized bike ($1K+) gets locked; camping gear, not so much.

We'll be using a good quality aluminum bed tool chest for securing attractive items (auxillary propane tank, fuel container, generator, BBQ).  As for the Ollie - which is better: coupler lock or wheel locks?  Has anyone installed a motion sensor alarm as a deterrent, similar to a car alarm? 

[Moonlight Mile]

36 minutes ago, John E Davies said:

Yes, get a good high quality HARDENED chain and a good lock. That wheel chock you linked to is garbage. The very first review...

”The pin locking mechanism jammed in place and would not retract when the clamp was unlocked. This lock nearly stranded my trailer at our campsite. Fortunately it is also not a very durable lock, and a couple of quick hammer blows were enough to break the pin so I could get going.”

If you don’t want the hassle of a heavy chain, which will probably scratch the fine polish of your pretty wheels, consider a Master Python cable lock. You would need to add a red flag of some material so you remember to remove it. The cables used to be available in lengths up to 30 ft, but I don’t see the long ones listed. Here is a 12 footer that would also be excellent for securing lawn chairs, a bike or even a generator. Run the cable through the frame and one wheel, put the lock up on top of the tire where it will be out of the weather.

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-Python-Adjustable-8413KACBL-12/dp/B07TSYB3XY

I use a 15 foot one all the time. It is not super secure like a hardened chain and a quality lock, but it is certainly good enough.

When I have the flag pole mounted in its tube, I run the cable through the hole in the side, to keep somebody from walking away with it and my wind art.😬

John Davies

Spokane WA

Like I said the link was example, thanks for the detailed reply and links to products re: your actual solution. Looks good to me!

[SeaDawg]

Deploying John's python cable would undoubtedly be easier than hardened 3/8 or 1/2 inch chain, and lighter to carry.

You can buy some types hardened chain by the foot at Tractor Supply, and some hardware stores, if you decide to go that route. But, I'd definitely add a sock to help keep it from marring your wheels. Try picking up a few feet of 3/8 or 1/2 inch  chain, like transport chain, grade 70, at TS and see how you'd feel tugging and lugging that around. It's useless to spend the money if you don't use it because it's a hassle. 

[Overland]

I use these Steelcore tie downs to secure stuff in the bed of the truck.  They're heavy fabric with a steel cable inside.  I figure that they're about as secure as a standard cable, but they can be rolled up pretty compactly and don't require a separate lock, so they're easy to store.  They're supposed to be very difficult to cut with a bolt cutter, but I suspect that the latch is an easy target.  Like most other solutions, they're primarily a deterrent and to prevent crimes of opportunity.  You can get them keyed alike if you have more than one.  The only drawback is that they hold water if they get wet - no big deal.  They're stiffer to use than a standard strap, but that's to be expected, and they seem to tighten up well, regardless.  

They also sell the strap with loops on both ends for use with a padlock.  I don't know if you'd be able to get the loop through the openings in the wheels, though.  

Edited January 14, 2021 by Overland

[Jim_Oker]

1 hour ago, Ray and Susan Huff said:

Is this cable comparable to Kryponite cables?

At least a very cursory glance suggest "probably yes"  as an answer as both are 3/8" thick. I'm making  an assumption that 3/8" listed thickness of the Master Lock Python includes the  outer coating as does the listed 3/8" of the Kryptonite cables, and I'm further assuming  that the  steel portion is likely also roughly 1/4" as the Kryptonite is  and that  both  are  rougly similarly tough steel. If that doesn't seem like enough, this cable lists a 1/2" thickness though as with  the Master Lock  Python the Amazon listing does  not spec the actual  braided cable's thickness.

If you  are already thinking  of using  some  of this type of "stabilizing chocks" (it seems  "chocks" is  a bit  of a misnomer here as I understand the word but...), my understanding  is  that this model  can be locked in position. The cable-through-wheels is  probably a bigger hassle to defeat if you  use a really good lock, but there's always the question of how much  weight and space budget you  want to use up. But of course you  could  do  both locking  stabilizer  chocks AND  cable through  wheels (maybe even using the  same lock to secure both? As well as a hitch lock...). AND  the motion-sensor activated recording of the German  Shepherd barking menacingly along with some  device pounding  the  floor and rocking the trailer  a tad like  dog paws stomping 🙂

Edited January 14, 2021 by Jim_Oker

[SeaDawg]

2 hours ago, Jim_Oker said:

you  are already thinking  of using  some  of this type of "stabilizing chocks" (it seems  "chocks" is  a bit  of a misnomer here as I understand the word but...), my understanding  is  that this model  can be locked in position. The cable-through-wheels is  probably a bigger hassle to defeat if you  use a really good lock, but there's always the question of how much  weight and space budget you  want to use up. But of course you  could  do  both locking  stabilizer  chocks AND  cable through  wheels (maybe even using the  same lock to secure both? As well as a hitch lock...). AND  the motion-sensor activated recording of the German  Shepherd barking menacingly along with some  device pounding  the  floor and rocking the trailer  a tad like  dog paws stomping 🙂

The x chock design wouldn't give SherMica any help, as she's buying a single axle Elite, but I  could see that being of assistance in a couple ways with the Elite II. 

I'd probably invest in a good hidden GPS tracking device if I were nervous, and the usual locks that most of us get. The cable lock could be useful for other items, too.

I do like the barking dog recording idea, though. 😄 

[Landrover]

A mean junk yard dog tied to the wheel would be best. 😜

[Ray and Susan Huff]

6 hours ago, Jim_Oker said:

At least a very cursory glance suggest "probably yes"  as an answer as both are 3/8" thick. I'm making  an assumption that 3/8" listed thickness of the Master Lock Python includes the  outer coating as does the listed 3/8" of the Kryptonite cables, and I'm further assuming  that the  steel portion is likely also roughly 1/4" as the Kryptonite is  and that  both  are  rougly similarly tough steel. If that doesn't seem like enough, this cable lists a 1/2" thickness though as with  the Master Lock  Python the Amazon listing does  not spec the actual  braided cable's thickness.

If you  are already thinking  of using  some  of this type of "stabilizing chocks" (it seems  "chocks" is  a bit  of a misnomer here as I understand the word but...), my understanding  is  that this model  can be locked in position. The cable-through-wheels is  probably a bigger hassle to defeat if you  use a really good lock, but there's always the question of how much  weight and space budget you  want to use up. But of course you  could  do  both locking  stabilizer  chocks AND  cable through  wheels (maybe even using the  same lock to secure both? As well as a hitch lock...). AND  the motion-sensor activated recording of the German  Shepherd barking menacingly along with some  device pounding  the  floor and rocking the trailer  a tad like  dog paws stomping 🙂

My dad's neighbor actually had the motion activated barking dog alarm.  We have the barking dog across the creek from our house, but not motion activated . . . . just a barking dog! . . . . . real annoying 😠

Seriously, I think the hitch (coupler) lock would be less hassle and just as effective as chaining the wheels, without the chance of forgetting to remove the locking device before hitching up and driving off.  That being said, I wonder how many Oliver owners actually use some sort of trailer immobilization lock.

[Moonlight Mile]

13 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

The x chock design wouldn't give SherMica any help, as she's buying a single axle Elite, but I  could see that being of assistance in a couple ways with the Elite II. 

I'd probably invest in a good hidden GPS tracking device if I were nervous, and the usual locks that most of us get. The cable lock could be useful for other items, too.

I do like the barking dog recording idea, though. 😄 

Looking into hidden tracking devices, yes. “Vee haff our vaaays.” Woe be unto the non-tech-savvy thief who thinks he (she, to be PC about it) will not be located. I am new to TTs, towing, all that, but not new to catching and prosecuting wrongdoers, and I am a total geek. FWIW. 😉

Edited January 15, 2021 by SherMica

[BackofBeyond]

Some of us Oliver owners just don't have theft at the top of our worry list - its not in my top 25...were I to have a worry list. However, to each their own. Being tech savvy or not - I suppose an armed geekie guard would work, a bit expensive, and overkill. 

I'm sure you will find your comfort level, and move on to enjoying Ollie.  A similar concern - would be a TPS to monitor tires. Statistically a much better subject to focus on than theft. 

Happy trails

RB

My offer is still valid....

 

 

[Moonlight Mile]

13 minutes ago, BackofBeyond said:

Some of us Oliver owners just don't have theft at the top of our worry list - its not in my top 25...were I to have a worry list. However, to each their own. Being tech savvy or not - I suppose an armed geekie guard would work, a bit expensive, and overkill. 

I'm sure you will find your comfort level, and move on to enjoying Ollie.  A similar concern - would be a TPS to monitor tires. Statistically a much better subject to focus on than theft. 

Happy trails

RB

My offer is still valid....

 

 

I have the TPMS - for the truck. Heh. Thanks too!

[Overland]

I don't think that I've ever been concerned about theft, so much as it seemed like something I should be concerned about.  I've never had a lock of any sort, but I have an oddball hitch that's probably better security anyway.  And we have a Spot Trace that I still keep up the service on, though I often wonder why.

My concern level - 

Likelihood of Catastrophic Loss: 

1. highway accident
2. fire
3. tornado
4. theft
5. mutant fiberglass eating termites

 

 

[BackofBeyond]

Fiberglass eating  mutant termites - for sure, But its those pesky Martians that bother me - them and their Holographic AS spaceships - blasting around the universe (with rotting floorboards)  looking for the very exclusive and scarce Oliver TT.  Alien envy - my worst nightmare. 

[Jim_Oker]

16 hours ago, Ray and Susan Huff said:

We have the barking dog across the creek from our house, but not motion activated . . . . just a barking dog! . . . . . real annoying 😠

I feel your  pain. This discussion  reminds me of a friend in Seattle who messed around with some  Arduino gadgets for a while  to  create a motion  activated recording of voices to try to deter folks who were taking leaks in the  alley  next to his  garage on a regular  basis. I think he  had at least  some  success with this :-).

And yeah good point about  the x-chocks SeaDawg - forgot she is getting the single axle Elite.

[SeaDawg]

59 minutes ago, SherMica said:

I have the TPMS - for the truck. Heh. Thanks too!

Did your rebel come with an integrated system for the trailer tires? The sensors?

Our Ram is a 2008. The time works only for the truck.  We have an aftermarket system that works very well for the trailer. 

[Moonlight Mile]

Yep exactly what I meant. Truck. Not trailer. And truck is not assembled or something. I dunno. Like they gave me the stuff for it but I have to do something and I haven’t got time to breathe lately. Very stressed. 

[SeaDawg]

It may be more cost effective for an aftermarket tpms.

That can also wait, awhile. Chill. Just a bit.

I know this is a big life change.  You'll get there!

[SeaDawg]

But, if they gave you tpms stems with the truck, as they sometimes do, you are golden. 

I know a lot of newer trucks have the option to install tpms monitors in/on the trailer tires, so it is integrated with the truck system.

We'll see what yours has, eventually.  It's also unlikely that you will suffer a flat on the trailer in the first 1000 miles.

In the meantime,  as I said, chill. 

You have enough to finish at your current home. 

Edited January 15, 2021 by SeaDawg
Typos

[Jim_Oker]

Yeah old fashioned tire  pressure checks can suffice in the  near term until you  have time and mental  energy for  sorting that out. Good luck with your tranistion. You  probably know that moves are on the  list of life's ten biggest  stressors, and what  you're  doing sounds  like a move  on  steroids. May you  find moments  of  calm amidst the crush of things  to  be done. 

[Moonlight Mile]

15 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

But, if they gave you tpms stems with the truck, as they sometimes do, you are golden. 

I know a lot of newer trucks have the option to install tpms monitors in/on the trailer tires, so it is integrated with the truck system.

We'll see what yours has, eventually.  It's also unlikely that you will suffer a flat on the trailer in the first 1000 miles.

In the meantime,  as I said, chill. 

You have enough to finish at your current home. 

Thank you, yes it is entirely possible that the new truck which has a steering knob on the dash for backing up a travel trailer (!) and tons of stuff I haven’t had TIME to even read about, HAS the integrated option or something like that. Entirely possible. Hoping the OTT guys might help me set that up as part of delivery day even if I have to pay them.