Atwood CO detector alarmed

[MAX Burner]

On 10/15/2023 at 10:07 AM, topgun2 said:

The propane/CO detector I received earlier this week from Amazon had a MFG date of May, 2023.

Bill

Same here, Bill...  just received from Amazon yesterday:

MFG'd 17MAY23

[Boudicca908]

Can I remove and replace this RV Safe CO/LP Alarm without shocking myself, if I’m not connected to shore power? Or do I have to blanket and kill off my solar lithium batteries first (which I am loath to do)? OR — is there a switch to cut the battery power from everything during electrical maintenance? 
 

I’m going to have to replace my alarm. It’s gone off 8 times in 4 days. Apologies if this is answered in the thread. I’m working from my phone, and very tired. 

Edited October 29, 2023 by Boudicca908

[Wandering Sagebrush]

The CO/LP monitor is a DC (12VDC) device.  While you’re not going to electrocute yourself, best practice is to not have power on while working on a connection.  I recommend you find the fuse/circuit breaker and remove power from the monitor.  You could also remove shore power and disconnect the negative battery cable that comes from the trailer to the battery pack.

[mossemi]

48 minutes ago, Boudicca908 said:

Or do I have to blanket and kill off my solar lithium batteries first (which I am loath to do)? OR — is there a switch to cut the battery power from everything during electrical maintenance? 

A moving blanket over the solar panels an easy and effective way to stop the panels from producing any energy, thus protecting yourself and the Oliver.  If you have the Lithionic battery package, it may have a switch on the battery that will shut it off.  Do you have tools to test 12v volt equipment such as your truck battery?  A multimeter is a very useful tool for testing 120V AC and 12V DC.  A 12 volt test probe is also a useful tool to verify if voltage is present in a battery or circuit.

Mossey

[Boudicca908]

2 hours ago, mossemi said:

A moving blanket over the solar panels an easy and effective way to stop the panels from producing any energy, thus protecting yourself and the Oliver.  If you have the Lithionic battery package, it may have a switch on the battery that will shut it off.  Do you have tools to test 12v volt equipment such as your truck battery?  A multimeter is a very useful tool for testing 120V AC and 12V DC.  A 12 volt test probe is also a useful tool to verify if voltage is present in a battery or circuit.

Mossey

Thanks.
I guess I need to study the manual again (and service videos and Oliver University) to figure out if there’s actually a switch; it would be very convenient if there is one. 
I’ll look at multimeters when I get home. I think I have one among my fathers toolboxes. Maybe it will suffice. 

[Rivernerd]

4 hours ago, Boudicca908 said:

do I have to blanket and kill off my solar lithium batteries first (which I am loath to do)? OR — is there a switch to cut the battery power from everything during electrical maintenance? 

Your 2022 Elite II should have a large red solar panel cutoff switch in the overhead compartment just aft of the pantry.

In addition to cutting solar power, you should remove the CO/LP detector fuse before replacing the detector.  That 1-amp fuse in your 2022 Elite II should be accessible through the forward panel under the bed on the street side.   Just replace the fuse once the replacement is complete.  See photo below.

[Patriot]

7 hours ago, Boudicca908 said:

Can I remove and replace this RV Safe CO/LP Alarm without shocking myself, if I’m not connected to shore power? Or do I have to blanket and kill off my solar lithium batteries first (which I am loath to do)? OR — is there a switch to cut the battery power from everything during electrical maintenance? 
 

I’m going to have to replace my alarm. It’s gone off 8 times in 4 days. Apologies if this is answered in the thread. I’m working from my phone, and very tired. 

No apologies necessary. Yes, you can, in a pinch.  Simply unconnect the wires and reconnect the wires to the new detector. It’s a straight forward 12 volt connection. 

[MAX Burner]

Managed to complete the new detector install yesterday….

Now moving on to the Victron DC-DC Charger install…

[Patriot]

1 hour ago, MAX Burner said:

Managed to complete the new detector install yesterday….

Now moving on to the Victron DC-DC Charger install…

Looks great Max! Sano install! 👍🏻

[mossemi]

5 hours ago, Boudicca908 said:

Thanks.
I guess I need to study the manual again (and service videos and Oliver University) to figure out if there’s actually a switch; it would be very convenient if there is one. 
I’ll look at multimeters when I get home. I think I have one among my fathers toolboxes. Maybe it will suffice. 

Or you could make a pit stop in Lutz on your way home and we can look for it together.

Mossey

[Boudicca908]

On 10/29/2023 at 2:54 PM, Rivernerd said:

Just replace the fuse

Replace? Or just reconnect?

[Rivernerd]

1 minute ago, Boudicca908 said:

Replace? Or just reconnect?

My poor word choice,  Once the repair is complete, put the original fuse back in the fuse holder to complete the circuit.

[Boudicca908]

On 10/29/2023 at 8:18 PM, mossemi said:

a pit stop in Lutz

Ahhh… I’m just now seeing this, and already south! Thank you for the offer! Tomorrow I plan to pull the bed off and see what’s what under there. I have a new alarm on order (not under warranty). 
And I found my Father’s multimeter — it’s pretty nice. Maybe fancier than necessary. 

[Boudicca908]

On 10/29/2023 at 2:54 PM, Rivernerd said:

Your 2022 Elite II should have a large red solar panel cutoff switch in the overhead compartment just aft of the pantry.

I’ve been wondering what that was! I couldn’t quite remember from the marathon “meet your Oliver” delivery. 

[Geronimo John]

The RV Safe combo propane & CO detectors seem to have been "upgraded" to just Propane.   See updated response from MFG Below.  GJ

My understanding is that CO is lighter than air and Propane is not.  So optimal mounting placement of their previous combo unit is not feasible.  

As such, maybe use a Smoke/CO high in the back of Ollie and the Propane low up front actually would be a better practice.

I have sent an E-mail to RV Safe asking them to confirm or comment on the above.  More upon their update     DONE.  🙂   

GJ

Edited November 6, 2023 by Geronimo John
Updated post with MFG response below.

[topgun2]

Strange -

I thought that the "new" alarm units were the propane/CO combination units.

At least on the older Elite II's the "smoke detector" that is usually located in the back street side corner is a combination smoke/CO detector which takes care of the fact that CO is lighter than air.

Bill

[Geronimo John]

I contacted RV Save about their products.  Below is their response.  

 GJ

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

From: customerservice rvsafealarm.com <customerservice@rvsafealarm.com>
Sent: Monday, November 6, 2023 7:05 AM
Subject: RE: RV Safe CO/Propane Detector

Good morning,

Thank you for liking our product! We will be keeping both the Propane and the Carbon Monoxide / Propane combo. Nothing is scheduled to change.  

Regards,

RV Safe LLC

11441 Markon Drive

Garden Grove, CA 92841

714-934-8512

[jd1923]

This is why @John E Davies in another thread replaced his single monitor with two special purpose monitors. Turns out this may be a bit overboard, a concern for those who are risk adverse! Not me, more of the risk-taking sort, being extremely lucky to have survived the 70s! 🤪

According to this org, Carbon Monoxide Facts - Healthy Building Science, "CO is slightly lighter than air. However, studies have shown no significant difference in measurements based on what height CO detectors are mounted."

Thank you @Patriot for bringing this to our attention. Previous owner installed this same unit on mine. Hey, if this thing rings loud in the middle of the night, I don't need a switch. Just open the rear seat of the dinette and pull either wire away from the 3M Scotchlok used by OTT to connect it or use a wire cutter!

To install a new one, yes pull the fuse, or if you're careful you can cut the wires, one at a time and wire it hot. That would be me, a low amp 12VDC circuit, just a minor jolt if you ground yourself! Just don't splice the hot (red) until you are ready to crimp it into a new butt connector.

I would not have known these sensors have date codes, likely for legal vs. technical reasons, though I may be wrong on this one (does the sensor age or wear out in some way?). Looks like mine is good for another 2 1/2 years. BTW, the build date is not important, just as long as you are within the expiration date.

Hey, who installed the USB receptacle? OTT did. It sure looks crooked (the pet peeve of the perennial installer)! I cut the flap off the USB ports since the cover just gets in the way (we don't use cigarette lighter outlets).

[topgun2]

10 hours ago, jd1923 said:

I cut the flap off the USB ports since the cover just gets in the way (we don't use cigarette lighter outlets).

So - now you have to stay up at night worrying about the kids getting under the dinette and licking those crooked USB ports.😁

[Wandering Sagebrush]

14 minutes ago, topgun2 said:

So - now you have to stay up at night worrying about the kids getting under the dinette and licking those crooked USB ports.😁

Now we know how they recharge after a tough travel day…  I’ll see myself out😇