Steph and Dud B Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 We always travel with at least 10 gallons of water in our fresh tank, for emergency bathroom stops, etc. In the past, when we got home, I'd open the fresh water drain while the trailer was in the yard to empty the tank. Now that the trailer's in the garage, with no floor drain, I wanted a way to drain the tank without it dumping on the garage floor. I bought a low profile bucket and some garden hose bulkhead fittings on Amazon, drilled a hole in the bucket, and installed the fitting. Now I can slide the bucket under the fresh water drain, attach a hose, and let the water run out the garage door. Parts: 3 Gallon Super Bucket with Ergonomic Handle https://a.co/d/fOahpl0 SNUTUYA PVC Garden Hose Bulkhead Fitting With Plug, 1/2" Female NPT, 3/4" Male GHT (garden Hose Thread), For Rain Barrels, Aquariums, Sinks,2 Pack https://a.co/d/3lRxTCu 6 Stephanie and Dudley from CT. 2022 LE2, Hull #1150: Eggcelsior. Tow vehicle: 2016 GMC Sierra 6.0 gas dually 4x4. Our Oliver journey: Steph and Dud B's RV Screed Where we've been RVing since 1999: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wandering Sagebrush Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 I made a similar gadget, but not as nice as yours. Well done! 1 Hull #364 - The Roadrunner 2023 F350 CCLB SRW 6.7L Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jd1923 Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 I open our fresh tank drain valve (and faucets to breath), on some back road, every time we're driving home from a trip. New freshwater next time out. 3 Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patriot Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 @Steph and Dud B Necessity the mother of invention! 👍🏻 Patriot🇺🇸 1 2020 OLEII - Hull #634 aka- “XPLOR” 2021 F350 6.7 liter Diesel Lariat Ultimate Tremor North Carolina 🇺🇸 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jd1923 Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 This is our emergency water! 3 Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steph and Dud B Posted January 22 Author Share Posted January 22 15 hours ago, jd1923 said: I open our fresh tank drain valve (and faucets to breath), on some back road, I read a post on one of the RV forums that claimed they got pulled over by a trooper while draining their fresh water on the road. The trooper said police had received calls that a trailer was dumping something on the highway. The OP said he was ticketed for "failure to secure a load." (BTW, you don't need to open your faucets to drain the fresh tank, but it does help if you want to drain all the lines, too.) 2 1 Stephanie and Dudley from CT. 2022 LE2, Hull #1150: Eggcelsior. Tow vehicle: 2016 GMC Sierra 6.0 gas dually 4x4. Our Oliver journey: Steph and Dud B's RV Screed Where we've been RVing since 1999: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jd1923 Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 3 hours ago, Steph and Dud B said: I read a post on one of the RV forums that claimed they got pulled over by a trooper while draining their fresh water on the road... (BTW, you don't need to open your faucets to drain the fresh tank, but it does help if you want to drain all the lines, too.) Agreed and thank you! Living in Arizona, I've taken this chance at times on the back roads. It is only water and out here most of it evaporates in minutes. The sight of a Trooper is also extremely rare out of Phoenix, or off the Interstates. I certainly would not think of this if we still lived in IL, VA, FL or TX! Some of these states the cops are very strict! (not here) I should just wait until we get home. You really need the rear of the trailer downhill to empty it fully (backing into our driveway is downhill and it drains into a wash). And yes, the tank has an overflow to breath the tank. I do open the faucets to start emptying the lines and then blow them out afterwards. Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steph and Dud B Posted January 22 Author Share Posted January 22 1 hour ago, jd1923 said: I do open the faucets to start emptying the lines and then blow them out afterwards. I've been thinking about this. There's a check valve in, or behind, the water pump that would prevent water from the lines from draining back into the tank. It's there to prevent city water from backfilling the tank when you're hooked up. Stephanie and Dudley from CT. 2022 LE2, Hull #1150: Eggcelsior. Tow vehicle: 2016 GMC Sierra 6.0 gas dually 4x4. Our Oliver journey: Steph and Dud B's RV Screed Where we've been RVing since 1999: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jd1923 Posted January 23 Share Posted January 23 4 hours ago, Steph and Dud B said: I've been thinking about this. There's a check valve in, or behind, the water pump that would prevent water from the lines from draining back into the tank. It's there to prevent city water from backfilling the tank when you're hooked up. The check valves are shown in the OTT drawing to be directly inside the hulls at the City and Freshwater inlets. I found them to be along the back wall which can be seen in what I call the Oliver's trunk (see pics, btw a bad place for these lines to be and will freeze more quicky with these large brass valves, a strong conductor will release internal heat more quickly). When you blow out the lines, you are pushing compressed air in the proper direction of the backflow preventer (aka check valve), so no associated issue. There is not another check valve at the water pump. The backflow preventer has several purposes, but in an RV without one the water pump would continue to cycle continuously. The backflow preventer creates a necessary close system to build require pressure in the plumbing system. I have a thread on using compressed air to winterize. I have a thing about using chemicals when working, done 20+ brake jobs w/o Brakleen and the like, even when THEY claim to be environmentally safe, yeah right! We blow our tanks dry and refill several times each winter, since we camp from fall to spring and not during the summer. It's too hot down here! We use and need a good furnace and could care less about the Dometic cooling albatross sitting on the roof! I might remove it one day (fill a 14x14" hole) and mount 2 more solar panels! Glad it was your thread we hijacked! 🤣 3 Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steph and Dud B Posted January 23 Author Share Posted January 23 Yes, there are check valves at the water inlets as shown, but there is also a check valve at (or inside) the pump. If the pump didn't have a check valve, pressurized water in the lines while connected to a city water supply would backflow through the pump and fill the water tank. This is actually how most people find out their pump check valve has failed: the water tank keeps filling up on its own. Also, when using your pump, without an integral pump check valve, your system would lose all pressure as soon as the pump shut off, because the water would push back into the tank. 4 Stephanie and Dudley from CT. 2022 LE2, Hull #1150: Eggcelsior. Tow vehicle: 2016 GMC Sierra 6.0 gas dually 4x4. Our Oliver journey: Steph and Dud B's RV Screed Where we've been RVing since 1999: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators SeaDawg Posted January 23 Moderators Share Posted January 23 16 hours ago, jd1923 said: We use and need a good furnace and could care less about the Dometic cooling albatross sitting on the roof! I might remove it one day (fill a 14x14" hole) and mount 2 more solar panels You could just fill the 14 x 14 opening with a low profile, inexpensive roof vent. Remove the manual operator handle. I actually thought about doing this, as we rarely use ac, when we swapped the Dometic for the small Houghton. 1 1 2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4 2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12 Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes.... 400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries . Life is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators SeaDawg Posted January 23 Moderators Share Posted January 23 On 1/22/2024 at 2:01 PM, Steph and Dud B said: I read a post on one of the RV forums that claimed they got pulled over by a trooper while draining their fresh water on the road. The trooper said police had received calls that a trailer was dumping something on the highway. The OP said he was ticketed for "failure to secure a load." (BTW, you don't need to open your faucets to drain the fresh tank, but it does help if you want to drain all the lines, too.) People following behind you don't "know" that you're dumping clean water. They might just think the worst (black water.) Easy enough, for me, to dump clean water in the yard, at home. 1 2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4 2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12 Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes.... 400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries . Life is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDRider Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 On 1/22/2024 at 10:19 PM, jd1923 said: The check valves are shown in the OTT drawing to be directly inside the hulls at the City and Freshwater inlets. I found them to be along the back wall which can be seen in what I call the Oliver's trunk (see pics, btw a bad place for these lines to be and will freeze more quicky with these large brass valves, a strong conductor will release internal heat more quickly). When you blow out the lines, you are pushing compressed air in the proper direction of the backflow preventer (aka check valve), so no associated issue. There is not another check valve at the water pump. The backflow preventer has several purposes, but in an RV without one the water pump would continue to cycle continuously. The backflow preventer creates a necessary close system to build require pressure in the plumbing system. I have a thread on using compressed air to winterize. I have a thing about using chemicals when working, done 20+ brake jobs w/o Brakleen and the like, even when THEY claim to be environmentally safe, yeah right! We blow our tanks dry and refill several times each winter, since we camp from fall to spring and not during the summer. It's too hot down here! We use and need a good furnace and could care less about the Dometic cooling albatross sitting on the roof! I might remove it one day (fill a 14x14" hole) and mount 2 more solar panels! Glad it was your thread we hijacked! 🤣 Thanks for that plumbing drawing. What manual is it in? 1 Jeff & Cindy - NE Arkansas - 2023 Legacy Elite II - Twin Bed - Hull #1423 TV - 2015 Silverado 2500 Duramax 4x4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jd1923 Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 3 hours ago, HDRider said: Thanks for that plumbing drawing. What manual is it in? I've been told these are in our Owners Manuals, but mine is a 2016 and I do not see any schematic drawings in the manual for 2016. You have a 2023 and perhaps they would be in the PDF version of your manual online. What I've done is collect drawings other members have posted in this forum, every time I see one! When I copy a drawing of a newer OTT, I'm never sure the systems in my Oliver will be exactly the same, but they help. Hopefully others in the know will chime in. 1 3 Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Mike and Carol Posted January 25 Moderators Share Posted January 25 7 hours ago, jd1923 said: When I copy a drawing of a newer OTT, I'm never sure the systems in my Oliver will be exactly the same, but they help. Hopefully others in the know will chime in. My 2016 manual doesn’t have a diagram either. There was no diagram anywhere in the trailer. I’ve just had to figure it out over the years. 3 Texas Hill Country | 2016 Elite II #135 | 2020 Ram 2500 6.7L Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich.dev Posted June 25 Share Posted June 25 On 1/22/2024 at 2:01 PM, Steph and Dud B said: BTW, you don't need to open your faucets to drain the fresh tank, but it does help if you want to drain all the lines, too.) Good to know, I’m in the process of switching out the John Guest push fittings with shark bite fittings and was wondering how to drain all the water from the lines. I’ve always had a low drain point on previous trailers. 2023 Elite II, Hull# 1386, Lithium Platinum Package (640AH, 400W Roof Solar, 3000W Xantrex Inverter), added 400W Renogy Solar suitcase with Victron MPPT 100/30 CC, Truma water heater & AC TV: 2024 Silverado 2500HD 6.6L 10-Speed Allison Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jd1923 Posted June 26 Share Posted June 26 (edited) @rich.dev No low points here and don't forget hot & cold plumbing to the outdoor shower. The only way to drain all lines is to blow air through the hose inlets. Set your compressor down to about 40 PSI and make yourself this kind of tool (bottom-right in picture). I use it for winterizing too instead of the pink stuff. Edited June 26 by jd1923 typo 1 Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich.dev Posted June 26 Share Posted June 26 Thanks John, so no issues blowing air through the hose inlets with check valves? 2023 Elite II, Hull# 1386, Lithium Platinum Package (640AH, 400W Roof Solar, 3000W Xantrex Inverter), added 400W Renogy Solar suitcase with Victron MPPT 100/30 CC, Truma water heater & AC TV: 2024 Silverado 2500HD 6.6L 10-Speed Allison Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators mossemi Posted June 26 Moderators Share Posted June 26 The 2017 manual has a very nice set of schematics for 12v DC, 120v AC and both pressure and waste plumbing. I am pretty sure the 2018 manual and maybe the 2019 manual also had schematics. They are not always 100% accurate, but do provide a starting point. The schematic @jd1923 posted also shows check valves at either hot water heater that the original owner specified the build order. Mossey 2 Mike and Krunch Lutz, FL 2017 LEII #193 “the dog house” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jd1923 Posted June 26 Share Posted June 26 1 hour ago, rich.dev said: Thanks John, so no issues blowing air through the hose inlets with check valves? The check valves do not allow reverse flow out the hose which would lose pressure in the plumbing. So you would be blowing air in the allowed direction, into the hose inlets. I do it all the time since we travel on and off all winter and when home on the mountain it often gets in the low 20s overnight. It’s part of my winter return trip process to blow the plumbing dry while we’re still in the driveway! 2 Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jd1923 Posted June 26 Share Posted June 26 (edited) And yes, our hull has check valves and restrictors on the Fresh Tank and City Water lines (see pic). You may not need the following detail for a summer plumbing project, but when I am winterizing, I run air into all four (4) water inlets. First air into the City Water to drain both sinks, the toilet and outdoor shower. Then the Fresh Tank inlet for a few seconds. Then I connect to the rear port, after turning water valves to boondocking position and run air in for a few seconds. Lastly the toilet rinse inlet. Except for the first step that drains all the internal plumbing via the City Water connection, the other 3 just take a few seconds of air to clear those short inlet lines. You can bypass the HWH for a plumbing repair, but when winterizing, I bypass it to clear the hot water plumbing with the air and at the same time I pull the anode plug to drain the 6-gal HWH tank as well. Edited June 26 by jd1923 Added last paragraph 1 2 Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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