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My understanding is that the brake wires come that way from the Dexter, Oliver just installs the axles as they receive them. Mike

At least we finally got to try the dinette as a bed. Too small for me, but Steph was able to fit. Will be good for our grandson someday.

Yeah I hear you on that. Likewise have also been fairly diligent about cleaning the windows as well. Doesn't matter this is a very flawed design and made somewhat worse by the fact the channels lean in the wrong direction for proper drainage. By that I mean the side of the Oliver rest at about 5-10º in the opposite direction (inward) that would allow the water to flow out of the weep holes adequately effectively backing up and filling both channels of the sliding window. With that in mind I have drilled larger weep holes in one experimental window. Two holes per weeping slit on either side. Also looking into a way of eliminating the natural water adhesion which prevents easy water flow from the channels. Pipe cleaners have not worked at all. Just this past week we ran into the same issue, new twin beds installed and no sooner than that and we received several days of rain. Mattresses and all were very wet, had to remove the entire enchilada to dry and mop up and this was after having cleaned the windows out thoroughly the day before. Because of this I am now in the process of re-engineering a better prevention system that hopefully will mitigate water intrusion to begin with. If this effort fails we will be buying other windows to install. Is it any wonder so many stick built trailers have rot issues? Its not because stick building is so inherently bad, after all most houses are made with sticks but the windows installed on the vast majority of these trailers are designed to absolutely allow water to flow into the trailers. Previously I ad considered installing window awnings on the Oliver but didn't like the idea of drilling holes into the outer shell and didn't particularly care for most of the fabrics offered with what products I found.

black

Thank you very much for the linked thread! Will read it when I get to my next destination later today. In process of breaking camp now and hitting the road. :) It's interesting that my messages never reported Trailer Disconnected (except when I unplug the 7 pin connector, of course). My messages have always come as the pair: Check Trailer Wiring AND Trailer Brakes Connected. Rewiring is sounding more and more likely to be on my plate in the near future, especially if it clears all of this up. So, I read that link in the past and I have saved both of them for re-reading later. I will add a couple of notes: Everyone associated with Chevy GM said "it's the trailer" and everyone NOT associated with Chevy GM said "it's the truck." My 'last' auto mechanic was careful to check the ground connection at the bus bar (that was one of the first things he did). It all looked okay to him, and to me (though I don't know much about electrical). I suspect the wires inside the axles are damaged, having seen the insulation rubbed near the wheels. And my mechanic said he found 'bare copper wire' which didn't make him very happy. I'm surprised, given the issues encountered, that OTT hasn't changed the way they approach this brake wiring -- and maybe they have changed it? My trailer is four years old now. Thanks to all for the help, links, comments, etc. I will be back.

Wow, glad you and your Ollie are OK! I can't even visualize how this can happen if the latch is locked/pinned unless the wire part that attaches from the latch to the collar is bent or broken. Do you have any pics from the topside?

I have a set of NEW Huskey Wheel Well Liners that specifically fit all Ford F-150 models from 2021 through 2026 EXCEPT for Raptor models. All parts and installation instructions are included. I can deliver these at the October Oliver Owner's Rally. PM me for details. Bill

Intermittent trailer disconnect messages have happened to a number of owners. My problem was worn wires inside the axle. Bryan @SNY SD UP in ND identified this issue first and shared his solution. Simply replacing those worn wires fixed the issue. I did go through months of troubleshooting and having my truck checked and tested at the dealer. The thread below is one of several on this topic. Trailer Brake Disconnect Message Mike

I'm pretty diligent with our sliding windows, cleaning the tracks and drain holes regularly, but they let me down last night. We were away from the trailer when a heavy thunderstorm rolled in. Came home to my bed soaked. Found a drowned stink bug in the outer track. I think he blocked either the track or the drain hole. Fortunately, it's hot and sunny today and the mattress is on the picnic table to dry, but if it was a rainy week we'd have a problem getting things dry. That's the downside of these sliding windows.

Is that white or black?

That should NOT happen! Glad you're OK! Scary.

Thank you. I just purchased one switch to try it out. I love the idea of the courtesy lights. They are fine at dusk, but once the sun is fully down, I feel like they are runway lights. I am getting ready to try it out now. Just pulled the panel, and was checking to see if you put the wiring diagram on this post before I reconnect my battery and use a volt meter. Thanks again.

All our nightmare. I am so glad everything went well. I would be shook to my core. It would be hard to go on.

Wow, so many variables and it's more difficult when you have to count on service technicians, to whom are not all created equal. Yes, all 7-pin cables are the same. And yes, you can replace male head only (OTT is not always right). GJ did his and I did mine, been fine for 2 years. Changing out the whole cable is a bit of work. On my hull it's connected under the front dinette, past the wastewater plumbing (see pic). But who knows on yours since OTT hires random installers year-to year. In the picture you showed of a residential junction box, I don't see the trailer cable, the large black coupler cable, spliced down like you see in my picture. If you want to be absolutely certain whether your issue is the truck or trailer, take your truck to U-Haul and rent the cheapest trailer with a 7-pin connector! There is a lot less liability in doing this than borrowing a friend's truck or trailer, and less money than an hour of labor, shop rate at the Stealership! 🤣 See if you get the error message when towing the U-Haul trailer. The logic is binary. If it still shows the error, then it's the truck. Tow the trailer long enough and if it doesn't display the error code, then you have a wiring problem with your Oliver. So, if it's the Oliver, the next thing I would do is to test the brakes. Pull the pin on the emergency brake switch (the little cable you connect when hitching). Then take a clamp ammeter to the streetside, under the wheel well where you see two wires coming out of the hull, going to the brakes. Clamp onto only one wire, either wire of the pair. The ammeter should read about 6A on both sides (front and back axles). If it does, then all your brake wiring is good, so you can rule that out. (Don't forget to replace the safety brake pin when done.) If this test fails, then you have wiring issues at the axles, but don't waste time there unless you must. If the above test is positive, then connect the 7-pin coupler to your truck and run the same test. If it tests bad, then the brake wiring from the coupler back is bad (open) somewhere. Your next step would be to replace the 7-pin male on the Oliver. This will likely fix any Oliver-side issues. You don't really want to replace the entire cable unless you have too and OTT would likely charge a fortune to do this job. If towing the U-Haul trailer showed an error message, then it's your truck. What a shame 4 GM dealers cannot properly troubleshoot and fix the products they sell. If it was me, in a heartbeat I would disable the factory brake controller. Pull the fuses for it, buy an aftermarket Tekonsha controller and run new wiring to the female 7-pin outlet on your rear bumper (this is what I did from the start, since my older truck does not have a factory controller). This would cost about $200 in parts and likely 2 shop-hours to install, ANY trailer shop can do this, has the parts, maybe even the same U-Haul dealer could do it. I'd rather go to the dentist for a couple extractions than make a service appointment with an auto dealer, OMG! 🤣 And your story certainly shows why. Keep us posted and let me know if you have questions on anything I suggested. Best wishes, JD

Yeah, except it popped off and is no longer fit for highway use (around town OK). I would replace it ASAP with the 12.5K 2 5/16" coupler. Glad I made the upgrade before something like this, and more so since our trailer is much older. The heavier Alcan Springs will keep the Oliver from porpoising. It will be less forgiving, and over a bump could creat force in the opposite direction. Given this failure, it would have happened eventually since the sagging 1750s are more foregiving. Sounds like your back or near home. John, you do not want a repeat episode! Please get it replaced! This is what I purchased which is still reasonably priced today => Bulldog Collar-Lok Trailer Coupler 2-5/16" Ball 12,500 lbs 3" Channel Tongue w/ High Profile Latch | TrailerJacks.com

Some do, it depends on the unit. I would prefer to trim the lineset to the correct lengths and thoroughly vacuum the lines myself. That's the exact process I used on my Pioneer. I would highly recommend applying Nylog Blue to all sides of the flare fittings/threads and the dustcap threads.

One try will be your last! What frustration in reconnecting it every time we towed. I don't need the big socket and hammer anymore! We have a much lesser truck than your new beauty and I did need it until I upgraded leaf springs on the trailer. No more porpoising, so no more need for it. 😎 Ours has been taking up space in my shed for a year. You just gave me an idea to reuse the chains for new safety chains on the Oliver. What you got there is a new boat anchor for your river raft! 🤣

Yeah, I imagine the hope was to increase sales, but the original sales model was best, should have been left alone. Dealers are going to promote/sell where they get the greatest sales volume and profit margin which is not Oliver.

We can ask @pjt, but I'm pretty sure after you run, cut, flare and connect the copper lines the system has to be evacuated for a period of time with a vacuum pump. Then you let the pre-charged freon out that is likely stored in the compressor/condenser unit.

Yes -- I have a friend at home who actually suggested that, but I didn't find a person available to test it that way. However, once I arrive in NM where I am meeting another Oliver owner, maybe she will be willing to test that out. No matter the cause, those wires being subjected to rubbing at the axles is ... no good. I will look for Mike Thompson (or a post, if he made one here on the forum?) I am not on facebook.

Screws are good, but bolts are better...... GJ

Check out the Oliver Outfitters guide: Oliver Outfitters Guide on Amazon also look over our travel web page for camping reviews and blog posts 4 Ever Hitched Blog also found at the bottom of our signature below.

Wow what a difficult time you have had. Frustrating for sure. I had a simular issue with my 2018 OE2. Problem was the male 7-pin. Art and I changed it out and it stopped the rogue errors like yours. Many owners have had problems with the brake cable inside the axles. John Davies used the cable protection like you used and ran the cables outside the axle with a bunch of zip ties. He ran it on the back side to protect it some from flying stones. One thing to try is to hook up your trailer to a different truck and see if they get a problem as well. But finding someone willing to do that would be difficult. GJ

Certainly that hole where your brake wire exit the axel SHOULD have a grommet. However, as a number of owners have found out - the brake wires that run through the axle can "short" due to the insulation wearing off INSIDE the axle where you simply can't see it. Mike Thompson (among others) experienced this. The good news is that the fix is fairly simply and inexpensive - run a new set of wires on the outside of the axel(s). I'm sure that Mike (or others) would be happy to give you the details. Bill

DR - Welcome to our Family! Bet ya can't wait for that new Apex. Make sure that you ask your Sales person what items are included at delivery with your new Ollie. This information will help you to either delay purchase or only get those things that you believe will suit your type of camping/travel. Any chance that you are planning on attending the annual Owner's Rally? If yes, then really delay so that you can see what others have . Next - start reading this Forum specifically looking for mods that might interest you. For instance - the use of "blocks" to shorten the distance your "levelers" have to travel is a practice used by many of us. These blocks not only save wear and tear on your levelers but also act as a "slip plane" (something that easily slides away such that a more permanent thing like you jack/leveler is not harmed) in the event you mistakenly leave the leveler down while moving the Ollie. Blocks can be as simple as a stack of wood, or, a 6x6 10 to 11 inch long block of wood, or, something like an Andersen block like THIS or THIS or "legos" like This or some combination of all these. Another item to consider is some type of side to side leveling helper - again like stacks of lumber or the "lego" blocks mentioned above or "ramps" such as THESE from Andersen. Once you have taken a look to see what's out there, come on back here and ask about the goods and bads of a particular item. Most likely you will get a variety of opinions on just about any single item, so, again, it would be helpful to detail what your intent is for usage. Have fun with all of this but don't go crazy until you get some idea of what things just might work best for YOU. Bill